THE CANADIAN | Day 1: boarding in Toronto and crossing Ontario

In May and June 2023, we travelled from east to west across Canada. From Halifax in Nova Scotia to Montreal in Quebec, to Toronto in Ontario, to Vancouver and Whistler in British Columbia. Along the way some night trains and commuter trains, the Niagara Falls and – imagine this – a bus journey. A true Trans-Canada Train Trek.

The moment had arrived. The raison d’être of this Canada trip. We boarded the The Canadian, train number 1, on Sunday the 28th of May 2023 for four days and nights and a bit to cross the country by rail, to Vancouver, in one go.

Presentation

The Canadian refers to a long-distance passenger train service operated by VIA Rail Canada, the national passenger rail service in Canada. It is the flagship trains of VIA Rail and offers a scenic cross-country journey from Toronto, Ontario, to Vancouver, British Columbia. The journey from Toronto to Vancouver is train number 1. The reverse is train number 2.

The Canadian train route covers a distance of approximately 4,466 kilometers (2,775 miles) and takes around four days to complete. It passes through diverse landscapes, including the Canadian Rockies, prairies, boreal forests, and stunning mountain ranges, providing passengers with breathtaking views of Canada’s natural beauty.

The train offers various classes of service, including Sleeper Plus class, which provides private cabins or roomettes for overnight accommodations, as well as access to lounges, dining cars, and panoramic dome cars for observing the scenery. Economy class is also available for those who prefer a more budget-friendly option.

Passengers on The Canadian have the opportunity to experience the charm of train travel, socialize with fellow travelers, and enjoy the picturesque landscapes along the route. The journey is often regarded as an iconic travel experience and is popular among both domestic and international tourists seeking a unique way to explore Canada.

Before 1955, the Canadian was a Canadian Pacific (CP) train connecting Toronto and Chicago in Illinois in the United States.

On April 24, 1955, CP renamed its transcontinental train between Montreal, Toronto and Vancouver to its new name, the Canadian.

In 1978, Via Rail Canada acquired the line, and, on January 15, 1990, designated the Canadian as its sole transcontinental service, between Toronto and Vancouver. The new service replaced the former Super Continental CN flagship passenger service, and continues to run as of 2022 primarily over Canadian National tracks.

History

In the years following World War II, passenger trains on the CP consisted of a mixture of prewar heavyweight and pre- and post-war lightweight cars, even on its flagship transcontinental The Dominion and its eastern extension, The Atlantic Limited.

While these cars were serviceable, American trains of the early 1950s, such as the California Zephyr, had already adopted streamlined all-stainless steel consists featuring domed observation cars. Following an evaluation in 1949 of the dome cars featured on the General Motors / Pullman Standard demonstrator Train of Tomorrow, CP management resolved to upgrade its rolling stock.

In 1953, CP placed an order for 155 stainless steel cars with the Budd Company of Red Lion, near Philadelphia in Pennsylvania that included 18 rear-end dome cars called Park Cars, 18 Skyline mid-train dome cars, 30 coaches, 18 dining cars and 71 sleeping cars, known as the Manor and Château series.

A subsequent order for 18 baggage-crew dormitory cars brought the final to total to 173 cars: sufficient for establishing an entirely-new transcontinental service and partially re-equipping The Dominion.

The interior design of these new cars was contracted to the Philadelphia architectural firm Harbeson, Hough, Livingston & Larson, a company known for its industrial designs on other prominent passenger trains such as the Pioneer Zephyr, and the resulting furnishings and pastel-shaded colour schemes were widely acclaimed.

After deciding to name the Park series dome cars after famous Canadian parks, leading Canadian artists, including members of the Group of Seven, were commissioned to paint suitable murals for these cars.

When the decision was made to add budget sleeping cars, the Budd order was supplemented by 22 existing heavyweight sleepers that CP refurbished in its own Angus Shops, each fitted-out with Budd-style stainless steel cladding.

Service under CP

CP christened its new flagship train The Canadian and service began on April 24, 1955. Running time between Montreal and Vancouver was reduced from about 85 to 71 hours, so that passengers spent only three, rather than four, nights en route.

Although CP competitor Canadian National Railways began its own new transcontinental service, the Super Continental, on the same day, CP was able to boast honestly that The Canadian was “The first and only all-stainless steel ‘dome’ stream-liner in Canada” — it was not until 1964 that the CN acquired dome cars from the Milwaukee Road.

Although initially successful, passenger train ridership began to decline in Canada during the 1960s. Air and car travel were fierce competitors.

Via Rail takes over

Via Rail, a federal crown corporation, formally assumed responsibility for CP’s passenger services on October 29, 1978.

The Super Continental was discontinued in 1981 due to sharp budget cuts. Since then, the Canadian has Via Rail’s only true transcontinental train. While the Super Continental was brought back in 1985 amid popular demand, it only ran as far east as Winnipeg.

In the aftermath of another round of deep budget cuts made to Via Rail on January 15, 1990, Via again discontinued the Super Continental, this time permanently.

The new longer route bypassed Thunder Bay, Regina and Calgary in favour of Saskatoon and Edmonton.

In 2007, the schedule was lengthened so that the train now takes four nights, rather than three, to travel between Toronto and Vancouver. The four-night schedule is almost identical (in terms of travel time) with that of the 1940s, despite substantial technological change since then.

Due to CN’s shortage of capacity on the cross-country line, 12-hour delays had become almost standard. On-time performance had fallen from 84% in 2009 to just 8% in 2017. Continuing delays reached nearly two days in length by mid-May, 2018.

To address this issue, the schedule was lengthened again, effective July 26, 2018, to four days and four nights in each direction due to continuing schedule-reliability problems on the host railway: CN. This change has almost entirely resolved the issue.

The Canadian currently takes 94 hours 15 minutes westbound vs. 95 hours 29 minutes eastbound.

Current operations

When operating on the normal schedule, the Canadian operates twice per week, departing Toronto on Wednesdays and Sundays and Vancouver on Mondays and Fridays. The total journey takes about four days.

The great majority of stations operate as flag stops; passengers boarding or detraining at these stops must give advance notice.

Classes of service

The Canadian offers three main classes of service: Economy, Sleeper Plus, and, since 2014, Prestige.

Sleeper Plus and Prestige passengers have access to the Via Rail business lounge, if available at that station. Prestige passengers are offered exclusive access to a dedicated business lounge area.

Sleeper Plus and Prestige passengers are pre-boarded.

No smoking is permitted in any Via station or on board the Canadian, including e-cigarettes and marijuana. The Canadian will make extended stops at some stations, which allow passengers to step outside the train and smoke if they so desire.

Economy class cars are kept separate from sleeper cars. One concierge is assigned to every sleeper car, or sometimes to two sleeper cars. The Prestige rooms are at the very back of the train.

Economy offers reclining seats. Sleeper Plus has a choice of upper/lower berths, a roomette for one, or a cabin for two: each of which features chairs or facing sofa seats during the day and beds at night. Some berths can accommodate two persons. It is also possible to join two adjoining cabins for two to create a space for four people during the day.

The second bed in a cabin for two is a pull-down bunk. Prestige offers a significantly larger cabin, with a modular leather sofa during the day which converts to a double bed at night. The Prestige cabin also has a much larger window.

Economy and Sleeper Plus have one washroom per car. Prestige has both private washroom facilities and private showers.

Meals and entertainment

Sleeper Plus and Prestige include three-course meals in a dining car, including non-alcoholic drinks during meals and coffee/tea/snacks at all hours. Prestige additionally includes unlimited drinks, including alcoholic drinks, with a dedicated concierge who will bring requested drinks to the room.

Economy gives access to a cafe car with light meals available for purchase.

Meals include breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Breakfast is open seating, with an additional continental breakfast available in the Skyline car. Lunch and dinner are served in two or three seatings, usually chosen the previous evening.

All classes have access to their own Skyline car. Sleeper Plus and Prestige passengers also have access to the Panorama car. Prestige passengers have semi-exclusive access to the Park car, a licensed lounge at the back of the train.

Talks and activities are scheduled during the summer months. If a singer or musical group is travelling with the train, separate performances will be available to each class of service.

Prestige uniquely has an in-cabin flatscreen television, with a selection of TV channels and movies.

First, checking in

So. We presented ourselves at Toronto Unio Station over an hour in advance as required. We checked in at the business lounge and made our first lunch and dinner reservations. We had to check in our main luggage. You only have space for a carry-on or overnight bag in your sleeping quarters.

Dropping of your bags is done further away. This procedure is not entirely clear so you need to pay attention.

The business lounge

The business lounge is were it begins. The lounge at Toronto Union Station features your typical amenities. Seating, drinks, some snacks, your last ‘land toilet’ for four days.

It was crowded. You could sense the anticipation.

Boarding

Soon it was time to board. Our car was number 110, Fraser Manor. Named after Simon Fraser, a 19th century explorer and pioneering settler in British Columbia. We were greeted by the handsome and charming attendant Ben, who – along with the rest of the crew – would accompany us to Winnipeg.

I settled in my roomette and wanted to explore the train, but first I had to get the safety briefing.

Off we go

We departed on time and I had a great spot in the dome car. The first leg would bring us to Washago, Parry Sound, Greater Sudbury and Capreol. At Capreol we had a first smokers’ and refueling stop. We accumulated over 5 hours’ delay on day 1, stopping often to let freight trains pass. We also suspect we were sent on the wrong track at the beginning of the journey.

First meals

Being the literal fifth wheel of the wagon, I would sit with strangers at every meal. Luckily I’m quite proficient with English. Lunch and dinner include a starter (or two!), a main and a dessert.

The started is always soup and / or a salad. Mains have a meat, fish and vegetarian option. Often there’s a pasta or a chicken. Dessert consists of a cake or tart or ice cream. Then there is tea and coffee. Sift drinks are included in the price, alcohol isn’t. You always get plenty of tap water.

First lunch offered a pulled pork sandwich, shrimp and scallop skewer, pasta of the day or a veggie burger. The soup was a vegetable soup. The dessert options were chocolate ice cream or carrot pecan cake.

Dinner offered beef tenderloin, trout fillet, chicken with pesto cream or a broccoli stir fry. The soup option was a minestrone. For dessert the choices were doble de leche cheesecake or triple chocolate fudge cake.

In between meals

What do you do in between meals? Look outside. Enjoy the Skyline car under the dome, which is divided in a lounge area and a games area with tables. Sleeper passengers can have complimentary tea, coffee, water, cookies and fruit there.

After 4 PM sleeper passengers are welcome in the Park Car, which until 4 PM is reserved for Prestige passengers.

And soon enough it’s time for bed!