GRANADA | The Alhambra and the Generalife

Six days. Five overnight stays in five cities in Spain. Lunch in Paris. Stopover in Barcelona. Then Córdoba, Seville, Granada and Málaga. An Andalusia Whirlwind Tour where we visit the Mezquita and the Alhambra. We’re touring Andalusia in October 2023 to follow the trend of travelling to hot spots outside summer, as we did with Italy in 2022.

Granada with La Alhambra y Generalife wasn’t originally on our schedule, but Gillis convinced Danny to add it on the plannig. Even if this meant squeezing another city in an already full week. We wouldn’t be disappointed. Indeed, the Alhambra and the Generalife are not to be missed.

The Alhambra (Arabic: الْحَمْرَاء, romanized: al-ḥamrāʼ) is a palace and fortress complex and not just one palace. Perhaps its nomenclature can be compared with the Acropolis of Athens, where ἡ Ἀκρόπολις τῶν Ἀθηνῶν refers to the high town – the literal translation of akropolis – and the Parthenon is the name of the famous temple.

The Alhambra, which means ‘The Red Fortress‘, is one of the most famous monuments of Islamic architecture and one of the best-preserved palaces of the historic Islamic world, in addition to containing notable examples of Spanish Renaissance architecture.

The complex was begun in 1238 by Muhammad I Ibn al-Ahmar, the first Nasrid emir and founder of the Emirate of Granada, the last Muslim state of Al-Andalus.

It was built on the Sabika hill, an outcrop of the Sierra Nevada which had been the site of earlier fortresses and of the 11th-century palace of Samuel ibn Naghrillah.

Later Nasrid rulers continuously modified the site. The most significant construction campaigns, which gave the royal palaces much of their definitive character, took place in the 14th century during the reigns of Yusuf I and Muhammad V.

After the conclusion of the Christian Reconquista in 1492, the site became the Royal Court of the Catholic Monarchs Ferdinand II of Aragon and Isabella I of Castile. The Alhambra is where Christopher Columbus received royal endorsement for his expedition).

The palaces were partially altered. In 1526, Holy Roman Emperor Charles V commissioned a new Renaissance-style palace in direct juxtaposition with the Nasrid palaces, but it was left uncompleted in the early 17th century.

After being allowed to fall into disrepair for centuries, with its buildings occupied by squatters, the Alhambra was rediscovered following the defeat of Napoleon I, whose troops destroyed parts of the site.

The rediscoverers were first British intellectuals and then other American and Northern European Romantic travelers. The most influential of them was Washington Irving, whose ‘Tales of the Alhambra‘ (1832) brought international attention to the site.

The Alhambra was one of the first Islamic monuments to become the object of modern scientific study and has been the subject of numerous restorations since the 19th century.

It is now one of Spain’s major tourist attractions and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Self-contained

During the Nasrid era, the Alhambra was a self-contained city separate from the rest of Granada below.

It contained most of the amenities of a Muslim city such as a Friday mosque, hammams (public baths), roads, houses, artisan workshops, a tannery, and a sophisticated water supply system.

As a royal city and citadel, it contained at least six major palaces, most of them located along the northern edge where they commanded views over the Albaicín quarter.

The most famous and best-preserved are the Mexuar (part of the Nasrid Palaces), the Comares Palace aka Court of the Myrtles, the Court or Palace of the Lions, and the Partal Palace, which form the main attraction to visitors today.

The other palaces are known from historical sources and from modern excavations.

At the Alhambra’s western tip is the Alcazaba fortress. Multiple smaller towers and fortified gates are also located along the Alhambra’s walls. Outside the Alhambra walls and located nearby to the east is the Generalife, a former Nasrid country estate and summer palace accompanied by historic orchards and modern landscaped gardens.

The architecture of the Nasrid Palaces reflects the tradition of Moorish architecture developed over previous centuries. It is characterized by the use of the courtyard as a central space and basic unit around which other halls and rooms were organized.

Courtyards typically had water features at their center, such as a reflective pool or a fountain. Decoration was focused on the inside of the building and was executed primarily with tile mosaics on lower walls and carved stucco on the upper walls. Geometric patterns, vegetal motifs, and Arabic inscriptions were the main types of decorative motifs. Additionally, ‘stalactite’-like sculpting, known as muqarnas, was used for three-dimensional features like vaulted ceilings.

The Generalife

As with other sites and landmarks in Andalusia, booking a ticket well in advance is paramount. The time slot is for the Nasrid Palaces, the other main points of interest don’t have a time slot.

We started with the Generalife. As usual, we visited without an audioguide.

Its name, believed to originate from the Arabic ‘Jannat al-Arif‘ (جَنَّةالْعَرِيف) which may variously mean ‘Garden of the Architect‘, ‘Garden of the Artist‘, ‘Garden of the Gnostic‘, or even ‘Garden of the Flautist‘.

The Generalife’s design is characterized by its geometric symmetry. The gardens are laid out in a series of terraced patios, creating a sense of order and harmony. Each terrace offers a unique perspective and an opportunity to admire the gardens from different vantage points.

Water plays a central role. A complex network of water features, including fountains, pools, and water channels, adds a sense of serenity. The sound of flowing water, the reflection of light on its surface, and the coolness it imparts in the arid climate make water a key element in Islamic garden design.

The country mansion features a series of architectural pavilions, where visitors can rest and enjoy the beauty of the gardens. These pavilions often feauture intricate plasterwork, elaborately carved wooden screens, and large windows that frame picturesque views of the gardens.

The Patio de la Acequia

One of the most iconic features of the Generalife is the Patio de la Acequia, a long pool bordered by meticulously groomed hedges.

Its design is a testament to the artistry of water in Islamic gardens. The symmetrical rows of cypress trees on either side of the pool create an enchanting atmosphere, while the reflection of the greenery in the water adds depth and beauty to the scene.

The Alcazaba of the Alhambra

The Alcazaba of the Alhambra is the oldest surviving part of the Alhambra, having been built by Muhammad I Ibn al-Ahmar after 1238. It stands on the site of an earlier fortress built by the Zirid kingdom of Granada in the 11th century.

The primary function of the Alcazaba was defensive. Its massive, crenelated walls and battlements were designed to withstand external threats and protect the Alhambra complex. The fortifications are a testament to the military engineering prowess of the Nasrids.

The Alcazaba comprises of several towers, including the Torre de la Vela, or Watchtower, which offers panoramic views of Granada and the surrounding Sierra Nevada mountains. The towers provided vantage points for monitoring the city and its environs.

The Alcazaba features multiple gateways, including the Puerta de la Justicia, which was the main entrance to the Alhambra. The gateways, fortified and well-guarded, served as crucial points of control and defense.

Palace of Charles V

Construction of the Palace of Charles V began in 1527 but dragged on and was left unfinished after 1637. The building has never been a home to a monarch and stood roofless until 1967. Today, the building also houses the Alhambra Museum on its ground floor and the Fine Arts Museum of Granada on its upper floor.

The Nasrid Palaces

Perhaps ‘the main event’. The Nasrid Palaces are a showcase of intricate and captivating architectural features that exemplify the zenith of Islamic art and design.

The walls of the Nasrid Palaces are adorned with intricate stucco carvings, showcasing geometric patterns, calligraphy, and floral motifs. The stucco is so delicate that it appears to be lacework in stone.

The use of horseshoe arches is a hallmark of Islamic architecture. These arches are abundant throughout the Nasrid Palaces.

Muqarnas, a form of decorative vaulting, is an architectural feature that graces the ceilings of various rooms. These honeycomb-like structures add depth and complexity to the interior spaces, creating an ambiance of grandeur.

The walls and floors of the Nasrid Palaces are adorned with tile mosaics, forming mesmerizing patterns, intricate stars, and interlocking designs.

Water is a central element in the design of the Nasrid Palaces. Fountains, pools, and water channels are strategically incorporated into the courtyards, reflecting the Islamic concept of paradise gardens and serving both aesthetic and practical purposes.

The Partal

The Partal Palace was originally built in the early 14th century by the Nasrid ruler Muhammad III, who ruled from 1302 to 1309. The name Partal comes from Arabic al-Barṭal or al-Burtāl (البرطل or البرطال). This word was an Arabisation of the Latin word portale (‘portal’).

So?

The Alhambra is just one of those household names you learn as a child, being a Major Cultural Site in Europe. And so yes, as a European you should visit one day.

Take the bus up the hill. An Uber or taxi is too expensive and you will already walk a lot on the grounds of the Alhambra and the Generalife.

Sometimes it’s a struggle to position yourself for that Instagram photo, because you’re far from alone at the Alhambra.

Don’t forget to bring your passport or identity card, as you will need it to be allowed to enter.

Trip By Trip