Autumn 2024. Ten years after my first trip to Seoul in 2014, I am returning to the Republic of Korea, better known as South Korea. Not solo this time, but with Oriol, who has never been to Korea. On the itinerary: flying with Qatar Airways to Incheon via Doha, the capital Seoul, the historic city of Gyeongju, Busan, Jeju Island and a second stint in Seoul, where we are joined by Sehyeon. We’re spending two weeks in South Korea. The ROK is such a popular destination now. Will we experience overtourism?  

We spent five of the fourteen days we were in South Korea, in Seoul. Two at the start and three at the end. What did we do? 

Arrival day

We arrived in Seoul on Saturday 27 September 2024. After landing at Incheon, getting our WOWPASS and eSim sorted, we travelled to Seoul Station, waled to our hotel, Fraser Place Namdaemun Seoul and checked in. 

We had dinner ad ate sundae (순대), Korean blood sausage! I liked it a lot. Because it was not late enough for bed but we didn’t fancy going out on our first night, we had a walk by the Cheonggyecheon Stream (청계천) which looks gorgeous on a Saturday night. 

Day of palaces and history

The next day was a Sunday and we started at Deoksugung (덕수궁). Also known as Gyeongun-gung, Deoksugung Palace, or Deoksu Palace, is a walled compound of palaces in Seoul that was inhabited by members of Korea’s royal family during the Joseon Dynasty until the annexation of Korea by Japan in 1910.   

It is one of the ‘Five Grand Palaces‘ built by the kings of the Joseon Dynasty. The buildings are of varying styles, including some of natural cryptomeria wood, painted wood, and stucco. Some buildings were built of stone to replicate western palatial structures.

In addition to the traditional palace buildings, there are also forested gardens, a statue of King Sejong the Great and the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, which holds special exhibitions. The palace is located near City Hall Station.

Next up was the Statue of Admiral Yi Sun-sin, a prominent landmark located in Gwanghwamun Plaza. Dedicated to the 16th-century Korean war hero, the statue stands 17 meters tall and is made of bronze.

The Statue King Sejong, a bit further, commemorates King Sejong the Great (세종,1397-1450, reign 1418-1450), the fourth king of Joseon (1392-1897). He is thought to be the greatest king in Korean history, for he is credited with great developments in science and technology, expansion of Joseon’s territory, and the creation of the Korean script, Hangeul.

Our next main stop was Gyeongbokgung (경복궁). It was the main royal palace of the Joseon Dynasty. The largest of the ‘Five Grand Palaces‘ built by the Joseon Dynasty, Gyeongbokgung served as the home of the royal family and the seat of government. 

After visiting Gyeongbokgung Palace it was too late to include Changdeokgung Palace that day. So we decided to see other areas. To start with: Bukchon Hanok Village. 

Bukchon Hanok Village (북촌한옥마을) is a residential neighborhood in Jongno District, known for its preserved traditional Korean houses, called hanok. It has become a popular tourist destination, causing some tension with the residents.

Next stop: Insadong or Insa-dong (인사동) is a dong, or neighborhood, in Jongno District. Its main street is Insadong-gil, which is connected to a number of alleys that lead deeper into the district, with modern galleries and tea shops. Historically, it was the largest market for antiques and artwork in Korea.

In that area there’s the Jogyesa or Jogye Temple (조계사), the chief temple of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism. It dates back to the late 14th century and became the order’s chief temple in 1936. Jogyesa plays a leading role in the current state of Seon Buddhism in South Korea.

After all that, it was time to eat. Someone tipped us to go to Gwangjang Market (광장시장), a traditional street market located in Jongno District. It is one of the oldest and largest traditional markets in South Korea, with over 5,000 shops and 20,000 employees. Approximately 65,000 people visit the market daily.

We ended day 1 by walking back to the hotel via the Cheonggyecheon Stream.

Day of modernity

After all that history, it was time to balance it out with modernity. The Dongdaemun Design Plaza (동대문디자인플라자) or DDP is a major urban development landmark in Seoul designed by Zaha Hadid and Samoo, with a distinctively neofuturistic design characterised by the “powerful, curving forms of elongated structures.”

Korea To Do lists the “top 12 shopping malls” of Dongdaemun. Seoul has a reputation of a shopping paradise. So let’s give it a go. From the twelve, we chose Hello apM. 

“Fresh young styles and low prices”, Korea To Do says. As we have severe cases pf Peter Pan Syndrome, we went to have a look. It was not our thing. So many clothes on a small area and a vendor being a bit too aggressive to try and sell things. 

Seoul has a reputation for being quite a shopping heaven and in Seoul Myeongdong (명동) or Myeong-dong is the neighbourhood for shopping, any guidebook will tell you. So we went. 

Myeongdong Shopping Street (명동쇼핑거리) contains mid-to-high-priced retail stores and international brand outlets, including Lacoste, Polo Ralph Lauren, H&M, Zara, Bulgari, Louis Vuitton, and Korean cosmetics brands like Nature Republic, Missha, The Face Shop, and Skin Food. 

After being a bit disappointed by ‘core Myeongdong’, we ventured to Lotte Young Plaza, Avenuel and Lotte Department Store. Three connected department stores. 

Shopping wasn’t a success, but the day wasn’t over. We decided to head to Namsam. Seoul Namsan Park (남산공원(서울)) is a popular destination located south of Myeongdong, offering hiking trails, tourist attractions, N Seoul Tower, and panoramic views of downtown Seoul. Namsan, meaning ‘South Mountain’ is the largest park in Seoul, attracting over 20,000 visitors daily.  

On top of Namsam, there is the N Seoul Tower (N 서울타워), officially the YTN Seoul Tower and also known as the Namsan Tower is a communication and observation tower located.

Off to Gyeongju, Busan and Jeju Island!

That concluded the first stint in Seoul. To be honest, we weren’t entirely convinced. We saw pretty things, but shopping was disappointing. Did we miss out on fun spots? Did we focus too much on the guidebook ‘unmissables’? 

It was far from unsuccessful, but it wasn’t an uncontested success either. 

Anyway, we had a second stint in Seoul after touring Korea and visiting Gyeongju, Busan and Jeju Island.

Back in Seoul

We landed from Juju City at Gimpo International Airport on Tuesday 8 October. After meeting up with Sehyeon at Seoul Station and checkin in at our Airbnb, we headed to Myeongdong for dinner and drinks. 

Broadening horizons

The next day, day 3 in Seoul started wuth a visit of Changdeokgung (창덕궁) also known as Changdeokgung Palace or Changdeok Palace. Known for its harmonious integration with nature, Changdeokgung is celebrated for its architectural excellence, design that emphasizes harmony with the surrounding landscape, and its Secret Garden (Huwon, 창덕궁후원), a sprawling green space used for leisure and relaxation by the royal family. 

Next to Changdeokgung is Changgyeonggung Palace (창경궁), another of the Five Grand Palaces of the Joseon Dynasty, founded by King Seongjong in 1483. Originally built as a residence for royal family members, including queens and concubines, the palace was designed to complement the adjacent Changdeokgung Palace, forming part of a larger royal compound that emphasized Confucian values, simplicity, and harmony with the natural landscape.

Enough palaces. On Instagram we had seen a reel showing Café Pokpo, an “oasis of calm” in Seoul. The café offers views on Seodaemun Hongje Waterfall or Hongjecheon Waterfall (홍제천인공폭포). But it was all but calm at Pokpo. It was very crowded. Seodaemun Hongje Waterfall is a scenic urban waterfall located in the Hongje-dong neighborhood of Seodaemun District. This ‘hidden gem’ in the city, also known as Hongjecheon Waterfall is part of the larger Hongjecheon Stream, which flows through the western part of Seoul.

After the waterfall and the park, it was time to go to the Han River for the 2024 Seoul Hangang River Light Drone Light Show. So we took public transport to Yeouido Hangang Park (여의도한강공원). But we were wrong. The Light Drone Light Show (yes, twice ‘light’ in the name) doesn’t happen at Yeouido Hangang Park, but at Ttukseom Hangang Park (뚝섬한강공원). 

Organised by the Seoul City government, the show is part of ongoing efforts to promote cultural events along the Han River, drawing both locals and tourists to enjoy a unique display of technology and art. During the show, the drones take off in synchronized movements, forming various shapes and animations in the sky, often themed around Korean culture, seasonal events, or popular holidays. 

To avoid a too crowded subway station, we decided to go ‘inland’ on foot a few blocks away and have dinner in the Konkuk University neighbourhood of Hwayang-dong. 

Gangnam

On our second to last day in Korea, we went to Gangnam or Gangnam-gu (강남구). The district has become world famous in 2012 after the ‘Gangnam Style‘ song by Psy. It’s a modern, corporate area with a (perceived) certain attitude.

Sehyeon took us to the Seolleung and Jeongneung Royal Tombs (서울선릉과정릉).  

Next up was Starfield COEX Mall (스타필드코엑스몰) and the Starfield Library, two popular destinations located within the COEX complex in Gangnam. 

Day was slowly turning into evening. We said goodbye to Sehyeon, who had planned an evening with a friend in Seoul. So Oriol and I went to Banpo Hangang Park (반포한강공원). Banpo Hangang Park is known for its scenic views, leisure facilities, and its centerpiece attraction, the Banpo Bridge Rainbow Fountain. We didn’t wait for the fountain to light up. 

The park also has ecological attractions, such as the Some Sevit (세빛섬) floating islands, three artificial islands connected by pathways and designed to host exhibitions, performances, and dining experiences. The islands have become an iconic part of the Seoul landscape and provide visitors with dining and entertainment options right on the river.

Gay night out 

As it was a Thursday and our last full night in Seoul, Oriol and I decided to go to a few gay bars. So it was time to go to Itaewon and Homo Hill. The street name of Homo Hill is Usadan-ro 12-gil (우사단로12길). For some reason, the internet is very shy to share this information. 

After dinner, some bars were open. Eat Me seemed the most live at the time. We were not the only patrons, but it was quiet. We had one drink there. 

After that one drink at Eat Me we moved to Seoul’s other gay area: Jongno 3-ga, where we had a cocktail at Bar MoU (모우).

Departure day 

Friday was fly day. First we went to Lotte Mart adjacent to Seoul Station. We bought some cosmetics. At Lotte Outlet, I bought a sweatshirt. 

We decided to return to Starfield COEX Mall. Again, the shopping was more successful for me than for Oriol.

The last proper activity we did in Seoul was going to a spa. Oriol is not a big fan of spas as such. But as we had some hours to kill before fetching our luggage and going to the airport, we decided to go to a spa, sauna, wellness or jjimjilbang (찜질방).

As we were at Starfield COEX Mall, we chose one nearby. The internet calls it Lotte Boseok Sauna Jjimjilbang (골드로즈사우나). But I also found the name GM Spa and Spa 5.

So? 

We covered a lot of ground in five days. You have already noticed we travel fast and don’t pause much. Because we’re here – in this case Korea – maybe only once. And while you can’t do everything, it’s also a shame to miss out. 

Yet in our busy days we find time for nice food, a coffee or cake. Koreans love ‘coffee and dessert’ places. It just works for us. 

South Korea 2024

1. QUESTION | Should you be scared of travelling to South Korea?.
2. REVIEW | Qatar Airways – economy – Boeing 787-8 Dreamliner – Brussels to Doha.
3. QATAR | Hamad International Airport (DOH) in Doha.
4. REVIEW | Qatar Airways – economy – Airbus A350 – Doha to Seoul / Incheon.
5. SOUTH KOREA | Landing at Incheon, retrieving the Wowpass and taking the AREX to Seoul Station.
6. REVIEW | Fraser Place Namdaemun Seoul near City Hall.
7. SEOUL | Deoksugung Palace by day.
8. SEOUL | Admiral Yi Sun-sin – King Sejong the Great – Gyeongbokgung Palace – National Folk Museum SEOUL | Admiral Yi Sun-sin – King Sejong the Great – Gyeongbokgung Palace – National Folk Museum.
9. SEOUL | Bukchon Hanok Village – Insadong Culture Street – Jogyesa Temple – Gwangjang Market – Cheonggyecheon Stream.
10. SEOUL 2024 | Dongdaemun Design Plaza.
11. SHOPPING IN SEOUL | Myeongdong – Lotte Young Plaza – Avenuel – Lotte Department Store.
12. SEOUL | Namsan Mountain Park and N Seoul Tower.
13. SOUTH KOREA | Seoul Station.
14. REVIEW | Korail KTX Seoul – Gyeongju – Busan.
15. GYEONGJU | Daereungwong – Cheonmachong – Cheomseongdae Observatory – Banwolseong Fortress – Anapji Pond – Woljeonggyo Bridge – Gyo-dong.
16. REVIEW | Hotel Palace in Gyeongju.
17. GYEONGJU | Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto.
18. GYEONGJU | Woljeonggyo Bridge – Gyeongju National Museum – Eupseong Fortress – Shopping.
19. REVIEW | Korail KTX Gyeongju to Busan 1st class.
20. BUSAN | Gamcheon Culture Village.
21. BUSAN | Jagalchi Fish Market.
22. REVIEW | Commodore Hotel Busan.
23. KOREA | Haedong Yonggung Temple in Busan.
24. BUSAN | Haedong Blue Line Park, Sky Capsules, Beach Train and Haeundae Green Railway.
25. BUSAN | Shinsegae Centum City Department Store, Gwangalli Beach, Busan Tower.
26. QUEER KOREA | Beomil-ro, Busan’s gay street.
27. SOUTH KOREA | Jin Air from Busan to Jeju.
28. SOUTH KOREA | Jeju City during Tamna Culture Festival.
29. REVIEW | Astar Hotel in Jeju City.
30. JEJU ISLAND | Hamdeok Beach – Seongsan Ilchilbong volcano – Ilchulland with lava tube – Wonang Waterfalls – Cheonjiyeon Waterfalls.
31. JEJU ISLAND | Sojeonbang & Jeonbang Waterfalls – Eongtto Waterfalls – Gaetkkak Jusangjeollidae Cliffs – Cheonjeyeon Waterfall & Seonim Bridge.
32. JEJU ISLAND | Museum of Sex and Health in Seogwipo.
33. JEJU ISLAND | Eongal Coastal Trail and Iho Tewoo Horse Lighthouses.
34. SOUTH KOREA | Jeju Island.
35. HOW TO | Hotel saunas in South Korea.
36. SOUTH KOREA | Flying Jin Air from Jeju City to Seoul Gimpo.
37. SEOUL | Changdeokgung – Secret Garden – Changgyeonggung.
38. SEOUL | Seodaemun Hongje Waterfall – Yeouido Hangang Park – Ttukseom Hangang Park – 2024 Seoul Hangang River Light Drone Light Show – Hwayang-dong.
39. SEOUL | Gangnam – Seonjeongneung Royal Tombs – Starfield COEX Mall & Library – Banpo Hangang Park – Some Sevit.
40. GAY ITAEWON | Homo Hill = Usadan-ro 12-gil (우사단로12길) in Seoul, South Korea.
41. GAY SEOUL | Jongno 3-ga ft. Bar MoU.
42. SEOUL | Skipping Myeongdong to shop at Starfield COEX Mall in Gangnam.
43. SEOUL | Spa 5 aka Lotte Boseuk Sauna Jjimjilbang in Gangnam.