LISBON | Belém in the rain

Easter Holiday 2024. Danny and Sam visited Porto in February, I visited the capital, Lisbon, in April with Steve, Philippe and Nicolas. I had my free week during a school holiday and as the boys work in education, I made the best of it. We chose Portugal for its convenience and our hope for fair weather. It wasn’t our first time in Lisbon, but my last visit dated from 2004. Twenty years is a long time. We had three full days.

On the first full day, rain was forecast, but the day started okay. We figured we would go to Belém, as steve wanted to visit the Jerónimos Monastery or Hieronymites Monastery (Mosteiro dos Jerónimos).

Introduction to Belém

Belém, a district of the municipality of Lisbon, is a veritable repository of historical, cultural, and aesthetic richness. Its nomenclature harks back to the Portuguese term for Bethlehem, echoing its profound religious heritage entwined with centuries of maritime exploration and colonial expansion.

At the nucleus of Belém lies the Jerónimos Monastery, an exemplar of Manueline architecture and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Erected in the 16th century, this grand edifice venerates Portugal’s Age of Discovery, housing the sepulchers of eminent figures such as Vasco da Gama and Luís de Camões. Its ornate carvings, vaulted ceilings, and imposing cloisters offer visitors a glimpse into the zenith of the nation’s maritime exploits.

Belém Tower & Monument to the Discoveries

Adjacent to the monastery stands the iconic Belém Tower, a symbol of Portugal’s seafaring prowess and a landmark synonymous with the city. Conceived as a bastion in the early 16th century to safeguard the entrance to Lisbon’s harbor, this UNESCO-listed fortress exhibits a unique fusion of Moorish, Renaissance, and Gothic architectural styles. Its crenellations, battlements, and maritime motifs evoke narratives of maritime conquests and distant shores.

In proximity, the Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Monument to the Discoveries) pays homage to the intrepid explorers who charted new frontiers during the Age of Discovery. Resembling a caravel ship, this imposing monument features colossal statues of Portugal’s pioneering navigators, including Henry the Navigator, Bartolomeu Dias, and Ferdinand Magellan. Ascending to its zenith affords panoramic vistas of the Tagus River and its environs.

Pastéis de Belém

Belém is renowned for its pastéis de Belém or pastéis de nata. Crafted from a clandestine recipe spanning over a century, these delectable custard tarts are emblematic of Portuguese patisserie craftsmanship. You can buy them at the Pastéis de Belém bakery. Add cinnamon and powdered sugar.

Beyond its iconic landmarks, Belém proffers a plethora of cultural pursuits, from esteemed museums to a burgeoning street art milieu. The National Coach Museum boasts a massive collection of historic carriages, epitomizing centuries of aristocratic grandeur.

Concurrently, the Berardo Collection Museum showcases a cornucopia of modern and contemporary art, featuring works by luminaries such as Pablo Picasso, Andy Warhol, and Salvador Dalí.

For nature lovers, Belém’s parks and gardens provide an idyllic refuge from urban clamor. The expansive Belém Palace Gardens offer a serene sanctuary, replete with manicured lawns, tranquil ponds, and fragrant flora—an ideal backdrop for leisurely perambulations or al fresco repasts.

In the rain

When we arrived in Belém on Tuesday 2 April, it started to rain slightly. The waiting line for the Jerónimos Monastery started at the Monument to the Overseas Combatants or Monumento aos Combatentes do Ultramar. This monument remembers the soldiers of the Portuguese Colonial War (1961-1974), also known as the Overseas War (Guerra do Ultramar) or War of Liberation (Guerra de Libertação), and also known as the Angolan, Guinea-Bissau and Mozambican War of Independence.

From there we walked to Belém Tower, after which it really started to rain. We sought refuge at Portugália brasserie. It wasn’t the best lunch, but kept us dry.

Unfortunately, rain intensified. So waiting in line for the Monastery was certainly out of the question. Before lunch, I searched for online tickets but couldn’t find an official site or something offering time slots.

Pastéis de Belém

We rushed to the Pastéis de Belém bakery and bought some tartlets. They were still warm and delicious. As it was raining and we all hid under the canopy, we didn’t try adding the cinnamon and powdered sugar.

MAAT

We decided to venture to Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology or Museu de Arte, Arquitetura e Tecnologia. MAAT is also beautiful from the outside. But as it was now a real downpour with a lot of wind, we couldn’t enjoy.

And double bad luck, MAAT is closed on Tuesday. So we took an Uber back to the apartment to dry and change into dry clothes.

Dinner

We had dinner at restaurant Fidalgo – O gosto do vinho, a small restaurant, wine and tapas bar in the Bairra Alto neighbourhood. Bairra Alto means High Neighbourhood so this meant climbing a lot. But it was worth it.