Easter Holiday 2024. Danny and Sam visited Porto in February, I visited the capital, Lisbon, in April with Steve, Philippe and Nicolas. I had my free week during a school holiday and as the boys work in education, I made the best of it. We chose Portugal for its convenience and our hope for fair weather. It wasn’t our first time in Lisbon, but my last visit dated from 2004. Twenty years is a long time. We had three full days.
After touring the Estádio da Luz of the SL Benfica football team, Nicolas and I met up with Steve and Philippe. We decided to explore the Bairro Alto or Upper District and the Estrela neighbourhood. We followed more or less a walk laid out in my Eyewitness Guidebook.
Bairo Alto
Bairro Alto is a historic neighborhood situated on a hill overlooking the city. It is known for its narrow cobblestone streets (which are not always easy to walk on), colourful buildings, and vibrant atmosphere. Originally developed in the 16th century, Bairro Alto has retained much of its traditional charm while also becoming a popular destination for locals and tourists alike.
During the day, Bairro Alto is relatively quiet, with many of its residents going about their daily routines. However, as the sun sets, the neighborhood comes alive with activity. Its numerous bars, restaurants, and cafes fill up with patrons looking to enjoy a meal or drink with friends.
In addition to its nightlife, Bairro Alto is also home to several cultural attractions, including art galleries, theaters, and museums. Visitors can wander the neighborhood’s streets and discover hidden gems tucked away in its winding alleys.
We actually visited Bairro Alto every night for dinner and drinks.
Estrela
The Estrela (Star) neighborhood is situated in the western part of Lisbon. It’s known for its tranquil atmosphere and residential character. Estrela is characterized by its narrow streets lined with traditional Portuguese houses, many of which feature colorful tiles and wrought iron balconies.
One of the notable landmarks in Estrela is the Basilica da Estrela, a grand church built in the late 18th century. Its impressive dome dominates the skyline of the neighborhood and is visible from many vantage points in Lisbon. The adjacent Jardim da Estrela, a picturesque public garden, offers a peaceful retreat for locals and visitors alike, with its lush greenery, ponds, and shaded pathways.
Estrela is also the home of the São Bento Palace, which houses the unicameral Assembly of the Republic (aka Parliament) of Portugal. Parliament neighbourhoods als attract ministries and embassies.
We also saw posh and expensive interior design shops and Michelin-star restaurants.
A walk through Bairro Alto and Estrela
We started our ‘long walk’ (the guidebook thinks 2.5 km is a long walk) from the Avenida metro station towards the Praça do Príncipe Real (Prince Royal Square).
The ascending and descending streets led us to Praça das Flores (Flowers Square) and then to the Assembly at Saint Benedict’s Palace.
We had drinks and snack at Jardim da Estrela (Star Gardens), where we saw a peacock being chased by a dog. The peacock could escape.
Tram 28E
Nicolas proposed we do the brand new Funicular da Graça. It was a 45 minute walk or a 33 minute tram ride with the famous and infamous tram 28E.
Tram 28E is an old tram as there are many in Lisbon. But its route is very popular with tourists as it takes you along many landmarks of the metropolis. On Instagram you will see reels pleading not to use the tram and leave tot to locals. Other reels just advocate its use.
The journey is indeed very nice. The small, short-wheel-based tram navigates the narrow streets of the city. I’m also amazed at how well it stops and go in traffic. Bear in mind Lisbon is not flat!
Funicular da Graça
Opened on 12 March 2024, the Graça Funicular allows transporting 14 people on each trip, in a comfortable connection between the neighborhoods of Graça and Mouraria, daily, from 9 AM to 9 PM. Circulation is in a single lane, between Rua dos Lagares (lower station) and Miradouro Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen (upper station)
The Graça Funicular will run on a single track, between Rua dos Lagares (lower station) and Miradouro Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen (upper station). Pets are allowed and you can transport bicycles.
“It is a historic moment for the city, it is interesting to think that 120 years ago there was a Graça elevator, between Rua da Palma and Graça, which operated between 1893 and 1904 and, 120 years later, we once again had another elevator”, Carlos Moedas, president of Lisbon City Council, said at the funicular’s inauguration ceremony.
Doca da Marinha
After another drinks and snacks break, we walked down the Alfama neighbourhood towards the Tagus River. Via the Doca da Marinha (Navy Dock) and the Praça do Comércio (Commerce Square) and the Baixa neighbourhood, we returned to the apartment
Cinnamon
For a last time, we climbed up the hill of Bairro Alto to have dinner at Pão de Canela (Cinnamon Bread). A place where you can have breakfast, brunch, lunch, afternoon cake and coffee, and dinner.
So?
A good comobination of walking, tramming, eating and drinking.
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