In the summer of 2025 I went to Helsinki in Finland when Midsummer was celebrated. On this longest day of the year Finnish people head into nature and celebrate what it means to be a Finn. I decided to stay in the capital for one and a half week to get a real first impression of Helsinki and the Finnish people. Often described as distant and cold people, I found myself drawn to their spirit. The sisu!

First of all let us get one misunderstanding out of the way: Finland is not a Scandinavian country! Geographically seen Finland isn’t part of the Scandinavian Peninsula, although the northwestern tip of Finland is.

Finnish isn’t a North Germanic language like Swedish, Norwegian, Icelandic and Danish. It’s an Uralic language tying the country linguistically to Estonia and Hungary. Finns are ethnically and culturally distinct from the Scandinavians, with a history that links them more closely to Baltic peoples.

Uniqueness

Although Finland has been part of the Swedish Realm for nearly seven centuries it also has been part of the Russian Empire from 1809 to 1917. In that regard Finland is set apart from the historical development of Sweden, Norway and Denmark.

Finland does however have lots of similarities socially and politically to these Scandinavian core countries. That is why it is considered a so called Nordic Country.

This whole explanation might seem like discussing the sex of angels but it is essential to understanding Helsinki. The mix of Swedish and Russian influence alongside Finnish culture and self-awareness, defines Helsinki’s and Finland’s uniqueness. Having been part of the Swedish Realm and the Russian Empire also explains the deeply rooted strive of the Finnish people towards independence.

Midsummer

However, my main reason to visit Helsinki was a typical Scandinavian tradition: the celebration of Midsummer. The summer solstice is the longest day of the year in the Northern Hemisphere. During the white nights around Midsummer the sun sets late and rises early. The sky remains bright enough so it never gets completely dark, especially during twilight. 

The celebration of Midsummer has roots in ancient pagan customs, where it was a time to pray for an abundant harvest and ward off evil spirits. You might immediately think about women with flower crowns dancing around the maypole. That also happens as there are many Swedish people living in Finland. There is however a Finnish approach to the holiday.

Into the woods

Finland has the most forest cover compared to its surface area in Europe, with approximately 75% of its land covered by forest. This makes it the most densely forested country on the continent. Consequently Finns are deeply connected to nature.

Many Finns escape the cities during Midsummer to their summer cottages. It is a time to head to the sauna and swim in one of the many lakes or the sea.

Other Finns connect on this day by going for long walks in nature.

Seurasaari Island

I celebrated Midsummer on Seurasaari Island, situated a quarter of an hour’s drive from the center of Helsinki. On the island you will find an open-air museum that displays the traditional Finnish way of life in the cottages, farmsteads and manors of the past four centuries that have been relocated from all around Finland.

A rock on the island serves as the background for a stage on which performances are held marking Midsummer. Folk groups play their music and traditional dance groups do their routines. Old wind instruments are demonstrated. The festival was really aimed at bringing tourists and locals together on this national holiday. A young woman did the announcements in Finnish, Swedish, German and English.

Flying the flag

Finns don’t fly the flag the whole year around. Official government buildings don’t raise the flag all the time as in many other countries. Only during Midsummer and Independence Day the flag is raised. During national tragedies the flag may of course be flown at half-mast. During the night Finnish flags are not raised.

Citizens have the right to fly the flag on their property for personal reasons, like family birthdays and weddings. 

Because of Midsummer the show on Seurasaari Island included a flag ceremony. This respectful attitude towards the Finnish flag reflects that the symbol is not to be taken for granted as Finland has known a long struggle towards independence.

Bonfires

A central part of Midsummer, also called Juhannus, involves lighting large bonfires by lakesides or on beaches. Midsummer bonfires are lit to honour the sun’s power, promote fertility and protect communities by warding off evil spirits. It is rooted in ancient pagan traditions.

These fires have evolved to symbolize St. John’s Eve, bringing people together for dancing and feasting. Under the watchful eye of the Helsinki firemen the joyful bonfire was lit, literally the highlight of the celebration.

Empty churches

Talking about St John, I wanted to know more about Finn’s religious life. In 2023 over 65% of Finns were members of a religious community, mainly the Evangelical Lutheran Church of Finland.

Roughly one-third to 35% of the population is not a member of any religious community.
Recent studies shows that belief in God is growing amongst youth whilst there is general church member decline. The Evangelical Lutheran Church of Finland estimates that only about 2% of its members attend weekly services, with the average member attending only about twice a year.

Nonetheless a few of Helsinki’s most famous landmarks are churches. I visited four remarkable churches during my stay.

One city, two cathedrals

The Finnish Evangelical Lutheran cathedral of the Diocese of Helsinki, simply called the Helsinki Cathedral, is the most famous building of the city. It’s a neoclassical building from the nineteenth century designed by the German architect Ludvig Engel.

The building makes a fresh impression with the main building painted in three shades of grey but giving the building a white impression and its five distinctive green domes with golden crosses.
The sober interior of the cathedral features statues of three prominent religious persons: Martin Luther, Philipp Melanchthon and Mikael Agricola.

German Martin Luther was of course the German priest and an important figure of the Protestant Reformation. His theological beliefs form the basis of Lutheranism. Philipp Melanchthon was a Lutheran reformer known as the ‘Praeceptor Germaniae’ (Latin for ‘Teacher of Germany’) for his significant work in creating and reforming the public school and university systems in Germany and establishing a model for Protestant institutions. Mikael Agricola was a Finnish Lutheran clergyman and the creator of the literary Finnish.

He translated the New Testament into Finnish. Agricola brought protestant ideas to Finland and helped establish Lutheranism within the Swedish territories.

There are however two cathedrals in Helsinki. Near the Helsinki Market Square you have the Uspenski Cathedral, the main cathedral of the Orthodox Church of Finland. This nineteenth century cathedral by Russian architect Alexey Gornostaev in Russian Revival architecture is located on a hill. It’s immediately recognizable by its striking red-brick exterior and its thirteen golden onion domes.

The interior is of course much more abundant then its Lutheran brother at Senate Square. The walls inside the Uspenski Cathedral are covered with a multitude of religious icons and detailed frescoes depicting biblical scenes and saints.

Solid as a rock

A third remarkable church I visited is the Temppeliaukio Church. It opened in 1969 and is built directly into a solid rock. Light comes into the church via the skylight of the center copper dome. The creation by the Finnish architects and brothers Tuomo Suomalainen and Timo Suomalainen has become a popular tourist attraction.

This modern church carved in solid granite rock has exceptional good acoustics. The geometry of the exposed rock explains the good sound. It’s a beloved location for concerts and musical events.

High into the sky

The fourth and last church I visited, is the Kallio Church. The church has a 65 metres high tower. It is located on a hill and its cross is 94 metres above sea level. In summer you can go up the tower on certain days. A splendid place for a panoramic view on downtown Helsinki.

Finnish architect Lars Sonck has designed this twentieth century church. It is instantly recognizable by its high granite tower and its National Romanticism architecture with Art Nouveau influences.

Now I had an impression of the religious life in Helsinki, I wanted to know more about the Finnish history and the birth of the national identity.

Grand Duchy of Finland

In the fourteenth century, Finland was part of the Kingdom of Sweden. Swedish laws and officials controlled the daily life and Swedish was the language of authority. Nonetheless Finnish traditions and a quiet sense of being different lived on among the people. For centuries, Finland lay between Sweden and Russia, and wars between the two great powers repeatedly swept across its land. This constant struggle made Finns aware of their vulnerable position in the north and slowly nurtured a shared identity that would later become the foundation of nationhood.

A pivotal point was reached in 1809. Sweden lost the Finnish War and had to hand over Finland to Russia. The Russian tsar Alexander I became Grand Duke of Finland. In other words Finland didn’t just become a regular Russian province, but a Grand Duchy with a wide autonomy.

Alexander I moved the capital from Turku to Helsinki, giving the country a new political heart. Under the reign of Alexander I Helsinki was rebuilt by Carl Ludvig Engel. The German architect designed many of the iconic Neoclassical buildings around Senate Square and the Esplanade (‘Esplanadi’), a beautiful park that connects the Erottaja square and the Market Square.

Tsar granting autonomy

Alexander II established Finnish as an official language in 1863 when he passed a language act that made Finnish co-official with Swedish. He even established a regular parliamentary system and supported that Finland would develop its own monetary system. The establishment of laws for conscription and the creation of a Finnish army also had his support. For the first time, Finns began to think of themselves as a distinct people capable of governing themselves, even within an empire.

Alexander II has a great statue in his honor on Senate Square, right next to the Government Palace. Despites growing political tensions between Finland and Russia today, the inhabitants of Helsinki clearly seem to remember the significant role Alexander II played in increasing Finland’s autonomy from the Russian Empire. With Finland joining NATO in 2023 and thus ending decades of military nonalignment, it is ironic to know that a Russian tsar has paved the way for creating a Finnish army.

Russification and national awakening

By the late nineteenth century (during the rule of tsar Nicholas II) the Russian Empire tried to suppress Finland’s autonomy through Russification. It had an adverse effect.

In this century the sense of nationhood deepened through a powerful cultural awakening. The publication of the Kalevala, Finland’s national epic, inspired pride in Finnish folklore and language. Writers and composers gave voice to a growing national spirit.

Jean Sibelius

Finnish composer Jean Sibelius was one of them. He has become a strong symbol of Finnish identity. His music, especially ‘Finlandia‘, expressed both the beauty of the Finnish landscape and the people’s determination to remain free. His compositions became a form of peaceful resistance, uniting the nation emotionally against increasing Russian pressure.

The composer has a park named after him (Jean Sibelius puisto) with a remarkable monument of 600 pipes arranged in a wave-like design to celebrate his music. It’s a beautiful place to make pictures as prove that you’ve visited Helsinki.

Do yourself a favor and stream Finlandia, which is considered Finland’s unofficial national anthem, whilst visiting the monument to add an auditive dimension to the experience.

Independence

When the Russian empire collapsed in 1917, Finnish leaders seized the moment and declared independence on December 6. Shortly after Finland was torn apart by civil war between the socialist ‘Reds’ and the conservative ‘Whites’. The Whites, led by Carl Gustaf Emil Mannerheim, won the conflict. They secured the country’s independence and shaped its political future.

During World War II, Mannerheim once again played a decisive role. As Commander-in-Chief of the Finnish armed forces, he led the country through the Winter War (1939–1940) and the Continuation War (1941–1944) against the Soviet Union. Although Finland was forced to give up territory, Mannerheim’s leadership helped preserve the nation’s independence when many others (amongst which the Baltic states) lost theirs.

Mannerheim, a former officer in the Russian army, became a unifying figure. Both a soldier, statesman and a later a symbol of Finland’s survival. Needless to say that Mannerheim has a bronze equestrian statue close to the Finnish Parliament House.

Finlandization

After the war, Finland adopted a careful policy of neutrality. The country maintained democracy and independence while carefully avoiding conflict with its powerful eastern neighbor. This strategy, known as ‘Finlandization’, allowed the country to grow in peace during the Cold War.

By the late twentieth century, Finland had become a modern welfare state. It’s admired by other countries for its stability, equality and education. It joined the European Union in 1995, deepening its ties with Western Europe. In 2023, responding to the full scale invasion of Russia in Ukraine, Finland joined NATO. It’s one of the few countries in the European Union with a strong army highly capable of defending itself in defensive warfare.

Sisu

This brings me to another central idea in the Finnish national character: ‘sisu’. It has no translation in other languages. Sisu is a state of mind. It refers to a sort of stoic determination, grit and bravery attributed to the Finnish people.

Finland has long winters and a harsh climate. As the above history shows it took the Finnish people a long time to become independent and its independence had to overcome multiple threats. The inhabitants of Finland overcame all these challenges by their ‘sisu’.

Strong as granite

My Finnish tour guide even associated granite, a solid stone used in many buildings in Helsinki, with the epic ‘sisu’. That brings us to another icon I really wanted to visit during my stay: Helsinki Central Station. It’s a beautiful Art Nouveau station created by American and Finnish architect Eliel Saarinen.

The station building was inaugurated in 1919. Just as famous as the building itself, are ‘The Lantern Bearers’ in front of the station that are created by sculptor Emil Wikström. The sculptures consist of four male figures made of granite, bearing spherical lamps in their hands. The square-jawed figures have muscular chests, but the bottom parts of their bodies consist of columns decorated in a way typical to Saarinen.

Alongside the Helsinki Cathedral and the Sibelius Monument, they are the most widely known symbols of Helsinki. And yes, their faces have a very determined expression. They surely have ‘sisu’.

Linnanmäki

After all this religion, history and national identity, I was in serious need of some careless fun. Which made me visit Linnanmäki, Finland’s oldest amusement park. The park is located in Helsinki.

I am an amusement park fanatic. I have visited many amusement parks before but Linnanmäki quickly gained a special place in my heart.

Linnanmäki is built on a hill and takes its name from Vesilinnanmäki (literally ’Water Castle Hill‘), a name given by locals in the twentieth century due to the presence of two water towers. Although the towers were disconnected from the water grid and are no longer operational, they are protected by the city’s zoning plan and cannot be demolished. The park managed to build an indoor roller coaster (‘Linnunrata eXtra’) inside the youngest water tower. This is just one example of the smart use of space. It’s astonishing how many attractions are nicely fit into this small park.

Although clearly an amusement park, Linnanmäki does have some lovely decorations, such as colorful decorative owls and peacock consisting of flowers. The park doesn’t need a big franchise behind it, because it has something of its own going on. It’s not quite definable but it’s very cute. Eat your heart out Disney and Universal Studios!

Brakemen

What also inspired me was Vuoristorata, a classical wooden roller coaster that opened in 1951 and is still operational. The braking of the attraction is carried out during the day by a brakeman standing at the rear of the train.

These men and women join the ride. They are incredibly powerful and flexible. Their portraits hang at the entry of the ride, making them local heroes.

Child welfare

But the main raison I fell so in love with this park, is because it doesn’t revolve around commercial gain. The park is owned by the non-profit Children’s Day Foundation and operates to raise funds for Finnish child welfare work. While it functions as a popular amusement park with rides, games and food, its profits are used to support child protection projects and charity organizations.

What is even crazier: there is no entry fee! You can enter Linnanmäki and walk around. There are even six rides that are free for all visitors. To ride the other attractions, you must purchase an unlimited rides wristband or an individual ride ticket. Knowing that it is child welfare that profits from the park, the money is spent with a smile.

Moomins

As I was in my ‘childish mode’ I surrendered to another children attraction, I visited a Moomin shop in downtown Helsinki.

The Moomins are a family of white, round fairy-tale characters with large snouts that make them resemble the hippopotamus. However the Moomin family are trolls who live in a house in Moominvalley.

Painter and illustrator Tove Jansson created the Moomins. They were turned into short stories, picture books and a comic strip.

International success

The Moomins became an international success due to their universal themes of nature, family and adventure. The short stories are quite philosophical and deal with issues as tolerance, loneliness and places of belonging.

Jansson’s comic strip was first launched in a Swedish language news magazine published in Helsinki. In 1954 it was launched in the UK’s Evening News. This led to an early exposure to millions of readers in the English speaking world. A Japanese animation series in the nineties enhanced this global success. This also resulted in a lot merchandise. The Moomins Shop at the Esplanade I have visited sells only stuff related to the Moomins.

Although Tove Jansson studied in Helsinki, you have to go other Finnish towns to enjoy main Moomin tourist attractions: there is theme park Moomin World in Naantali and the Moomin Museum in Tampere. I opted for the last one.

Openly lesbian

Shown at the Moomin Museum are illustrations by Tove Jansson and 40 miniatures, tableaux about Moomin events and a small (2.5 metres high) Moomin House. This Moomin House was made by Tove’s life partner, Tuulikki Pietilä.

Even though Tove Jansson was not an outspoken queer rights activist, she lived openly as a lesbian in a country where homosexuality was illegal. Tove and Tuulikki had an uncompromising life making them an inspiration for the LGBTQ community.

Helsinki Pride

Which brings me to the second main reason for my city visit besides Midsummer: Helsinki Pride! Tove Jansson lived in another time (1914 –2001) than the current Finland. Nowadays the country has progressive laws, strong public acceptance and a vibrant queer scene, particularly in Helsinki. Unlike in many West-European countries it’s mostly the women who lead the organized LGBTQ movement.

In the run-up to the Helsinki Pride I engaged in a very popular leisure activity: karaoke! There are many karaoke bars in Helsinki, also a queer bar: Pride Street. In the front it’s just a bar. But behind a sliding door there is a small karaoke room with a very welcoming atmosphere. But be aware: as with drinking alcohol, once the Finns start singing karaoke, there’s no stopping them!

Merci chéri

After having warmed up, I decided to get totally out of my comfort zone. I went to Kino Regina, a cinema located in Helsinki’s Oodi Central Library, and it is one of the library’s many public facilities (besides recording and editing studios, a game room, 3D printers, sewing machines, event spaces, a restaurant, a public terrace with city views and of course a book collection). 

In Regina they had a first edition of Pride Karaoke. I have enjoyed (did I?) the many performances of the Finnish visitors. In the front there was a table with paper strips to write down song proposals. I wrote down the 1966 song ‘Merci Chéri’ by Udo Jürgens and my name, boldly assuming they wouldn’t have it. After a Finnish cover of Madonna’s ‘Like A Virgin’ and some ‘Bara bada bastu’, I thought I had sweated out this ordeal. But then they called me to the stage to actually perform ‘Merci Chéri’. So I stood there with sisu and sang my longues out in French and German.

Ich komme

To crown it all, this queen also went to the Gay Parade. The march goes from Senate Square to Kaivopuisto, an old park near the Gulf of Finland. I was joined by about 100.000 people.

Kaivopuisto is the ideal park to close off a big event like the Pride March of Helsinki Pride. It’s cool under the trees when it’s hot and it has so much space to accompany people.

You never guessed what they had besides a main stage and a kinky forest: a karaoke tent! Sponsored by Master Card. When I arrived they were singing ‘Money, Money, Money’ by ABBA, as to please the sponsor of the tent. I laughed my ass off! That was before the lesbian girls started singing ‘Ich komme’ by Erika Vikman, a Finnish song that reflects sexual pleasure and reaching an orgasm. Let’s go out with a bang(er)!

Still waters run deep

I came to Finland with the common idea of it being a cold country with introverted people. A video installation at the airport serves as a perfect metaphor. You go down a big escalator in a dark room with high grey walls. It’s quiet and cold. However on the wall there’s a projection of the Finnish ballet. A couple is dancing a very intimate tango, a popular dance in Finland. This room is a bit like Finland and its people. Always seemingly stoic, with sisu. But still waters run deep. Once the passion comes out, there is an eruption of emotions. I was profoundly touched by this room and what went on in it.

I feel in so many ways that I have only started to scratch the surface. The white nights have revealed something about Finland, but not all. I will have to come back for the northern lights.