LATVIA | 1.5 days in Riga

August 2025. We’re travelling to the Baltic States: Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania, and more specifically their respective capitals Tallinn, Riga and Vilnius. Are they interconnected by rail? Yes, but not in the most straightforward or userfriendly way possible. The Rail Baltica project should remedy this. Unsurprisingly though, this megaproject faces political and budgetary hurdles. It will most likely not be ready by 2030. But that doesn’t stop us. What to expect from the Baltics? Is it affected by overtourism?

Riga Castle, Jugendstil in Riga, the National Library of Latvia, the Latvian Railway History Museum, duck burger at Baltā Kaza, the Riga Ghetto, the Latvian Academy of Sciences, fining dining at 3 Pavāru Restorāns, the Museum of the Barricades of 1991 and the Museum of the Occupation of Latvia, and the Museum of the History of Riga and Navigation. We did a lot in Riga.

But let’s introduce the city.

This is Riga

Riga is the capital and largest city of Latvia, home to approximately 592,000 residents as of 2025, which represents about one third of the nation’s entire population; its metropolitan area extends to nearly 847,000 inhabitants.

Situated on the Gulf of Riga at the mouth of the twisting River Daugava, the city is set on a flat, sandy plain barely above sea level.

Founded in 1201 by Bishop Albert, Riga quickly grew into a vital medieval trading hub and later became a prominent member of the Hanseatic League.

Its historic centre — known as Vecrīga or the Old Town — is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, celebrated for its medieval core as well as its exceptional Art Nouveau architecture, of which the city possesses one of the highest concentrations globally.

Architectural highlights abound: the Riga Cathedral, with its Romanesque and Gothic features, stands as the oldest and largest church in Latvia; the Gothic-style St. Peter’s Church boasts the city’s tallest spire; and the House of the Blackheads evokes the grandeur of a medieval merchant guild hall.

The Freedom Monument, a granite and copper sculpture crowned with three stars, has symbolised Latvian independence and unity since its unveiling in 1935.

Beyond its ancient charm, Riga embraces artistic expression. The Latvian National Opera commands attention with performances in a building of elegant, while the National Museum of Art impresses with its Neo-Baroque architecture and recent sensitive restoratio.

Another signature of Riga is the Central Market (Rīgas Centrāltirgus), among the largest in Europe and uniquely housed in repurposed Zeppelin hangars; its vast stalls brim with local produce and traditional fare?

Over centuries, Riga’s geographical position and cultural heritage have made it a crossroads of influences—from Livs, Vikings and German merchants, to periods under Polish–Lithuanian, Swedish and Russian rule.

After enduring occupations during both world wars and Soviet rule, Latvia declared independence again in 1991, and Riga has since re-emerged as the country’s cultural and economic pulse.

Today, Riga stands as a thriving European capital, where centuries of history converge with architectural splendour, cultural richness and vibrant urban life.

Uzbek restaurant **Bukhara** had nice dishes but very slow service.

What to see and do in Riga?

The narrow cobbled streets of Old Riga contain a mix of architectural styles, with notable landmarks including the House of the Blackheads and St. Peter’s Church. The church, dating back to the 13th century, has a rebuilt spire with a lift to a viewing platform that provides wide views of the city.

Riga is particularly noted for its concentration of Art Nouveau architecture, with more than 800 examples across the city. Alberta Street, in the so-called Quiet Centre, is especially well known for its elaborate façades, and the Riga Art Nouveau Centre preserves interiors by the architect Konstantīns Pēkšēns.

Another major landmark is the Riga Central Market, housed in former Zeppelin hangars and considered the largest market in Europe. It remains an important place for the sale of foodstuffs and local produce.

Cultural institutions include the Latvian National Museum of Art, which holds over 65,000 works from the 18th century to the present. The museum is housed in a Beo-Baroque building that was extensively restored and modernised between 2010 and 2015.

The Riga Dome Cathedral, begun in 1211, combines Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque and later architectural elements. It is also known for its large organ, which has been used for regular performances.

The Freedom Monument, erected in 1935, stands as a central landmark symbolising Latvian independence, depicting a female figure raising three stars.

Beyond the centre, the Latvian Ethnographic Open-Air Museum displays historic rural buildings, including farmsteads, windmills and churches, relocated from across the country and set beside a lake. Within the city, the Three Brothers—three adjacent houses dating from the 15th to 17th centuries—represent some of the oldest surviving residential buildings in Riga.

Bastejkalna Park, located near the Freedom Monument, provides green space with landscaped paths, bridges and a canal. On the opposite side of the Daugava, the National Library of Latvia is a striking modern building housing extensive collections and exhibitions.

For excursions, Jūrmala, a seaside resort town with long sandy beaches on the Baltic coast, can be reached by a short train journey. River cruises on the Daugava also offer views of the city from the water. The Riga Radio and TV Tower, the tallest tower in the European Union, has been closed for renovation but is expected to reopen with observation platforms, a restaurant and a Foucault pendulum.

Riga’s combination of medieval and modern architecture, cultural institutions, green areas and access to the coast provides a varied set of attractions for visitors.

Tourism in numbers

Tourism in Riga has grown steadily in recent years, with the city welcoming around 1.1 million international tourists staying in formal accommodation in 2024, an increase of 15.8 % compared with the previous year. When short-term rentals are included, actual visitor numbers are estimated to be roughly 20 % higher.

Across Latvia as a whole, tourist accommodation establishments recorded 2.7 million arrivals in 2024, up 10.9 % year-on-year, of which 1.6 million were non-resident arrivals, a rise of 14.3 %.

Riga accounts for 71.5 % of all foreign tourists visiting the country. Growth continued into 2025, with the first quarter showing more than a 20 % increase in arrivals and overnight stays compared with the same period in 2024.

Visitors come from a wide range of countries, with the largest numbers in 2024 arriving from Lithuania (about 280,700), Estonia (180,500), Germany (165,700), Finland (112,300) and the United Kingdom (94,700). Poland, the United States, Spain, Sweden and Norway also provided significant numbers of tourists.

Notable growth was seen from Canada (+118%), Spain (+109%) and Japan (+51%), alongside increases from the USA (+5.7%), the United Arab Emirates (+34%) and Australia (+28%).

Early 2025 figures show strong gains from Denmark (+58%), Sweden (+36%), the UK (+39%), Norway (+31%) and Estonia (+25 %).

Riga does not currently face a problem of overtourism. While summer and festive seasons bring more visitors, the numbers remain well below those of heavily touristed European capitals, and there is no evidence of significant pressure on infrastructure or public spaces.

Locals note some price differences in the Old Town, but these areas have long been more expensive regardless of visitor numbers.

The city’s reputation as a destination is on the rise. In 2025 Riga ranked 2nd in the ‘European Best Destinations‘ competition and has also been placed 6th in the ‘Best European Destinations 2024‘ ranking. It is known for its Christmas markets, earning 6th place among Europe’s best and topping the UK Post Office’s list of affordable festive destinations. Visitors frequently describe Riga as an underrated Baltic gem, praised for its architecture, cleanliness and atmospheric charm.

Queer Riga

Latvia decriminalised same-sex relations in 1992, equalised the age of consent in 1999 and introduced employment anti-discrimination protections in 2006.

Broader legal safeguards covering goods, services, hate speech and indirect discrimination followed in 2021.

A significant milestone came in July 2024, when registered partnerships for same-sex couples were codified into law, granting many of the rights associated with marriage, though not adoption, inheritance, or the right to use the title ‘marriage’.

Public opinion remains cautious, with a 2023 survey showing 40 % support for same-sex marriage and 46 % opposed. Latvia ranks 24th out of 27 EU countries on the ILGA-Europe Equality Index.

Riga’s LGBTQIA+ scene is small but active. The main gay nightclub is Top Club, which offers late-night dancing in a friendly, buzzer-entry setting. Nearby, Bunker Cruising Bar provides dark rooms, themed nights and video screens, with occasional mixed-gender events.

Skapis, a newer LGBTQIA+ friendly nightclub, has emerged as a welcoming venue for dancing and socialising. Sauna options have declined since the closure of the long-running Varaviksne sauna, although a small gay sauna remains open with facilities including a jacuzzi, infrared sauna and a movie room.

Public cruising occurs in certain parks and other locations, but such activity is informal and carries safety and privacy risks.

Community visibility has grown in recent years. Riga hosts Baltic Pride on a rotating basis with Tallinn and Vilnius, organised by local and regional LGBTQIA+ groups.

Early pride events faced protests and occasional violence, but increased police protection and public awareness have made recent parades more peaceful. While the legal framework has improved, Riga remains socially conservative compared with many Western European capitals, and discretion is often advised, particularly outside central nightlife areas.

Visitors generally find the main LGBTQIA+ venues welcoming, with weekends offering the most open and inclusive atmosphere.

So?

It was Danny’s first and my second time in Riga. We did a comprehensive tour. Riga is quite larger than Tallinn, so it can use more time.

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