LITHUANIA | Two days in Vilnius

August 2025. We’re travelling to the Baltic States: Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania, and more specifically their respective capitals Tallinn, Riga and Vilnius. Are they interconnected by rail? Yes, but not in the most straightforward or userfriendly way possible. The Rail Baltica project should remedy this. Unsurprisingly though, this megaproject faces political and budgetary hurdles. It will most likely not be ready by 2030. But that doesn’t stop us. What to expect from the Baltics? Is it affected by overtourism?

As our flight was only at 6:40 PM, you can say we had two days in Vilnius.

On day 1, we did the Railway Museum, the Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania and Gediminas’ Tower. We dined at Eltrio Namas. On day 2 we did the Museum of Occupations and Freedom Fights and the Vilnius Museum (Vilniaus muziejus).

The Vilnius Museum is not your typical municipal museum with city history, but an ‘experience’ with then an exhibition on the forms of communication.

We also walked around Vilnius.

On arrival night, we had a late dinner at **Hesburger**, a Finnish chain. For English, we had to look at the laminated sheet.

Introducing Vilnius

Vilnius, the capital and largest city of Lithuania, is the most populous city in the Baltic States, with an estimated 607,667 inhabitants within its city limits as of January 2025. Its broader urban area encompasses approximately 747,864 people across some 538 km², while the metropolitan region houses nearly 872,685 inhabitants across nearly 9,730 km². In June 2025, Vilnius officially overtook Riga to become the largest Baltic capital.

Vilnius’s population growth has been remarkable—up by around 13% over the past decade—driven by rising economic activity, an influx of international residents, and increasing urban opportunity.

The demographic fabric of the city is increasingly diverse: as of early 2024, the municipality recorded a population of 636,209 residents, boosted by tens of thousands of refugees from Ukraine and migrants from Belarus, Central Asia, India and beyond.

Earlier in the decade, official figures placed the city’s population between approximately 570,000 and 590,000. For instance, in early 2022 Statistics Lithuania cited about 569,729, whereas another registry reported 588,412.

In terms of urban structure, Vilnius covers roughly 401 km² (city proper), with the Old Town—an area of about 3.59 km² (or 352 hectares)—being one of the largest surviving medieval quarters in Northern Europe. It comprises 74 quarters, 70 streets, and lanes numbering 1,487 buildings, together covering nearly 1.5 million square metres of floor area.

History

Archaeological evidence shows that the area around Vilnius has been inhabited since the Stone Age, with settlements later established along the confluence of the Neris and Vilnia rivers. The first written mention of the city dates to 1323, in letters by Grand Duke Gediminas, who invited merchants, craftsmen and clergy from across Europe to settle there. This marked the city’s formal entry onto the European stage, with Gediminas proclaiming Vilnius the capital of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania.

In 1387, following Lithuania’s official Christianisation under Jogaila (Władysław II Jagiełło), Vilnius was granted Magdeburg rights, laying the foundations of its municipal self-government. Throughout the 15th and 16th centuries the city grew rapidly, becoming a key centre of trade, culture and education. A major milestone came in 1579 with the establishment of Vilnius University, one of the oldest in Eastern Europe, founded by King Stephen Báthory of Poland.

The city reached the height of its importance in the 16th and 17th centuries as the capital of the Polish–Lithuanian Commonwealth. Its diverse population included Lithuanians, Poles, Jews, Belarusians, Germans, and others, making it one of Europe’s most multi-ethnic and multi-confessional cities. Jewish life flourished in particular, earning Vilnius the title ‘Jerusalem of the North‘.

However, the city suffered repeated devastation in the following centuries. A fire in 1610 destroyed much of its medieval wooden architecture, though reconstruction brought forth the Baroque character that still defines the cityscape today.

The Muscovite invasion in 1655 and the Great Northern War in the early 18th century further weakened Vilnius, leading to economic decline. The partitions of the Commonwealth at the end of the 18th century brought Vilnius under the Russian Empire.

During Russian rule, Vilnius was heavily Russified, and after the suppression of uprisings in 1831 and 1863, the university was closed for decades. Despite these hardships, the city retained its cultural and religious diversity, with Poles, Jews and Russians forming the majority of its population by the 19th century, and Lithuanians themselves only a small minority. Napoleon’s army famously marched through Vilnius in 1812, with the French emperor said to have admired its Baroque skyline.

By the early 20th century Vilnius had become a contested city, claimed by Poles, Lithuanians, Jews and Belarusians alike.

During World War I it was occupied by German forces, after which it briefly served as the capital of the newly independent Lithuania in 1918–1919. Control then shifted several times during the chaotic post-war years: Vilnius was taken by Soviet forces, then by Poland, and incorporated into the Second Polish Republic in 1922.

During this period it was known as Wilno and developed as a provincial Polish city, with Lithuanians remaining a marginalised minority.

World War II brought further tragedy. The Soviet Union annexed Vilnius and Lithuania in 1940, only for the city to fall under Nazi occupation in 1941. Vilnius’s Jewish population, numbering over 50,000 at the start of the war, was almost entirely exterminated in the Holocaust, with the Vilna Ghetto becoming one of the darkest chapters in the city’s history. After the war, the Soviet Union reoccupied Lithuania, incorporating it into the USSR.

Lithuanian SSR

Under Soviet rule from 1944 to 1990, Vilnius was heavily industrialised and underwent large-scale reconstruction. Many Poles were resettled to Poland in population exchanges, while Lithuanians from the countryside moved into the city.

By the late Soviet period, Vilnius had transformed into a predominantly Lithuanian city once more, though with significant Russian, Polish, and Belarusian minorities.

In 1990, Vilnius was the site of a pivotal moment in Lithuanian and European history. On 11 March that year, the Supreme Council of Lithuania declared independence from the Soviet Union, making Vilnius the capital of the first Soviet republic to secede.

The following year, Soviet forces attempted to suppress the independence movement, resulting in the tragic events of January 1991, when 14 civilians were killed defending the Vilnius TV Tower. Lithuania’s independence was soon recognised internationally, and Vilnius resumed its role as the capital of a sovereign state.

Since independence, Vilnius has undergone a profound transformation. Joining the European Union and NATO in 2004 accelerated its modernisation and integration into Europe. The city has invested in infrastructure, cultural restoration, and technology, positioning itself as a dynamic capital with a rich heritage.

Architecture

The Old Town’s wealth of architectural splendours spans Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque and Neoclassical styles and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1994.

Its extensive ensemble includes the Vilnius University complex—with thirteen courtyards among its notable structures—and lively arteries like Pilies Street, as well as landmark squares such as Cathedral Square and Town Hall Square.

Economy, innovation and quality of life

Vilnius has evolved into Lithuania’s indisputable economic powerhouse. Its metropolitan area now boasts a per capita GDP approaching €30,000, and in 2022 the city itself operated on a budget of approximately €1 billion.

The average gross monthly salary in the city stood at €2,501 in mid-2024, with a net of €1,526. The city contributes disproportionately to national output: the Vilnius region produces around 42% of Lithuania’s GDP. In 2023, the metro area generated some €33.56 billion in GDP.

In recent years, Vilnius’s growth trajectory has seen it become the wealthiest city in the Baltics: its GDP per capita now exceeds Estonia’s Tallinn by 9%, Latvia’s Riga by 36%, and even surpasses the EU average by about 5%.

Tech

A major driver of those advances is the city’s flourishing tech ecosystem. More than 1,100 tech companies operate in Vilnius, employing over 40,000 people. In a decade, its startup sector’s value has grown thirty-ninefold, producing unicorns like Vinted and Nord Security.

The city is also hosting Europe’s largest-ever tech campus development—Cyber City and Tech Zity—on former Soviet factory sites, symbolising a transformation from industrial past to innovation-driven present.

Social

On a social dimension, Vilnius was named the European Green Capital 2025 and ranks highly in quality-of-life surveys. With over 61% of its territory comprising green spaces, excellent air quality, low noise and crime levels, and smart mobility like electric buses and cycle paths, it is consistently rated among the top European cities for livability.

Vilnius also enjoys cultural acclaim: in 2024, four of its restaurants received Michelin stars, adding to its growing culinary reputation. According to the World Happiness Report, it is considered the happiest city worldwide for those under 30—thanks to its affordability, safety, active nightlife, free education, and a sense of youthful freedom and opportunity.

Human capital and education

The population of Vilnius is notably young: more than half are under 40—18% aged 0–14, 32% between 15 and 39, with only 17% aged 65 or older (2021 data). It boasts high educational attainment levels: people aged 25–34 have among the highest tertiary education rates in the EU, and nearly all young professionals command fluent English and exceptional ICT literacy—ranking first in the EU.

About 53,639 students were enrolled in Vilnius institutions in 2023–2024, with foreign students making up about 13.2% of all students in Lithuania.

Demographic outlook and challenges

Projections from the municipal planning department suggest the city’s population may reach between 630,300 (pessimistic scenario) and 685,000 (optimistic scenario) by 2030, with a central forecast of around 651,600. Some observers suggest that already today, Vilnius’s metropolitan region holds over one million inhabitants.

Meanwhile, rapid growth brings challenges: longer queues at kindergartens, congestion, higher housing prices, overstretched infrastructure and public transport remain pressing concerns for residents.

What is there to do and see?

Vilnius offers visitors a striking blend of medieval charm, baroque grandeur, and modern vibrancy. At the heart of the city lies the Old Town, one of the largest surviving medieval quarters in Northern Europe. Its cobbled streets weave past Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque façades, with highlights including Vilnius Cathedral and its grand square, the ornate Church of St. Anne, and the historic complex of Vilnius University, founded in the sixteenth century. From Gediminas Hill, crowned by Gediminas’ Tower, panoramic views stretch across the tiled roofs of the Old Town and the greener hills beyond.

A different perspective can be found in the district of Užupis, Vilnius’s bohemian quarter. Once neglected, it has reinvented itself as an independent-minded ‘Republic’ with its own playful constitution, thriving art scene, and eclectic street installations. Cafés, galleries, and small workshops lend it a distinctive character that contrasts with the formal architecture of the city centre.

Museums and memorials reveal the city’s complex past. The National Museum of Lithuania and the Palace of the Grand Dukes offer insights into the country’s statehood and heritage, while the Museum of Occupations and Freedom Fights, housed in a former KGB headquarters, presents a stark narrative of twentieth-century repression.

For a moving reminder of Jewish Vilnius, once known as the ‘Jerusalem of the North’ visitors can explore the territory of the former Vilna Ghetto and the Holocaust memorials at Paneriai.

Modern landmarks add another layer to the city. The Vilnius TV Tower, at over 320 metres tall, dominates the skyline and includes an observation deck and a rotating restaurant.

Across the river, the contemporary district around Europa Tower shows Vilnius’s transformation into a modern European capital, with sleek high-rise offices, hotels, and shopping centres.

Green spaces are never far away. Bernardine Garden, a landscaped park by the Vilnia River, provides a peaceful retreat, while further out, Vingis Park offers broad avenues for cycling, walking, and open-air concerts. The nearby Hill of Three Crosses, a symbolic monument overlooking the city, is both a popular hiking spot and a viewpoint.

Vilnius also has a lively cultural and culinary scene. Its restaurants and cafés reflect both local traditions and cosmopolitan influences, with several recently earning Michelin recognition.

Festivals, from classical music and theatre to modern street art, animate the city throughout the year, while its nightlife ranges from cellar bars in the Old Town to contemporary clubs.

Tourism in numbers

Vilnius has established itself as one of Europe’s emerging city destinations, attracting a steadily growing stream of visitors. In 2023, more than 1.2 million guests stayed overnight in the city, a 4% increase on the previous year.

Almost 70% of these were foreign travellers, highlighting Vilnius’s strong international appeal. Poland, Germany, Latvia and the United Kingdom were among the main source markets, while domestic tourism also played a significant role. In terms of economic impact, inbound visitors generated close to €400 million for the city in 2024, with rising value per traveller underscoring the maturing tourism sector.

Tourists in Vilnius tend to travel independently, with around 77% exploring the city on foot and nearly two-thirds frequenting cafés and restaurants.

Cultural landmarks, churches and local cuisine rank high among the main attractions, and about one-third of visitors return for repeat trips. The city also scores strongly in visitor satisfaction, with six in ten tourists saying they would recommend it to others. Its affordability enhances this reputation, with Vilnius regularly ranked as one of the cheapest European capitals to visit.

Despite its growth, the city does not face the same overtourism pressures seen elsewhere in Europe.

The scale of Vilnius allows it to absorb rising visitor numbers without widespread overcrowding, though issues such as housing costs and urban services reflect broader development challenges. For locals, the city’s compact and intimate nature sometimes creates the impression of saturation, but this stems more from its small scale than from excessive tourist flows.

Vilnius’s reputation as a destination rests on its balance of authenticity, accessibility and value. Travellers are drawn to its historic Old Town, its cultural vitality and its relaxed pace, as well as to the sense of discovery it offers compared with more established city breaks.

High levels of satisfaction, repeat visitation and international recognition position the Lithuanian capital as a flourishing yet unspoilt destination—one that combines history and charm with the appeal of a modern European city.

How LGBTQIA+ friendly is Vilnius?

Vilnius is gradually making strides toward becoming a more LGBTQIA+-friendly city, though it remains modest in scale and visibility compared to larger Western European capitals.

Lithuania’s legal framework is evolving: same-sex activity has been legal since 1993, and from 2025, civil partnerships have been formally recognised. However, same-sex marriage remains constitutionally banned and broader societal acceptance still lags behind, especially outside urban areas.

Public opinion remains conservative: as of 2023, just 22% of Lithuanians supported same-sex marriage, with 60% opposed and 18% undecided. Nevertheless, support is somewhat stronger for civil unions.

At the heart of Vilnius’s LGBTQIA+ scene is the Lithuanian Gay League (LGL), the only NGO in Lithuania solely dedicated to LGBTQIA+ rights. Based in Vilnius, the LGL operates the country’s sole LGBTQIA+ community centre, offering a safe space, events, a library, and opportunities for community building and activism.

LGBTQIA+ venues and nightlife

Despite the city’s conservative backdrop, a few key venues offer spaces of visibility and community:

SOHO Club.The longest-running LGBTQIA+ nightclub in Lithuania (since 2007), SOHO is widely regarded as both a safe haven and a vibrant cultural hub. Expect themed parties, drag shows, live DJs, and a progressive, inclusive atmosphere.
VOX Bar. A small but friendly bar located in the heart of the city, known for its welcoming ambience and innovative cocktails. It attracts both locals and LGBTQIA+ visitors in a casual, warm setting.
Gay Sauna Glamour. The only gay sauna in Vilnius, featuring Finnish and steam saunas, a whirlpool, bar, and areas designed for cruising. Weekends often bring themed nights like ‘Underwear‘ or ‘Naked‘ parties.

Outside these venues, LGBTQIA+ individuals often find acceptance at mainstream clubs, raves, and underground music events, with many partygoers describing the atmosphere as inclusive, if not explicitly queer-centric.

Events and community life

The city makes a visible effort to celebrate and support LGBTQIA+ life through events like LT Pride, held annually in early June. The festival draws over 20,000 participants with parades, drag performances, DJ sets, community spaces, an education diversity conference, free HIV testing, and live concerts. Vilnius has also applied to host EuroPride in 2027, signalling growing ambitions for queer visibility and outreach.

Film and arts festivals further enrich the scene. The Kreivės / Vilnius Queer Festival, an annual LGBTQ-themed film event, offers screenings and community gatherings in central venues, fostering creative and social connection.

Everyday life & safety

Experiences vary, but many LGBTQIA+ locals and visitors report that Vilnius is generally safe as long as one doesn’t overtly display affection or announce their orientation. Public same-sex displays are still rare and may attract curious stares rather than hostility.

Some visitors note that Vilnius is beautiful and safe but discreetness is often advised.

That said, stories from smaller towns or isolated incidents do reflect occasional intolerance, though those tend to be infrequent in the city centre.

Two days in Vilnius

We had ample time to do what we wanted. I didn’t expect Vilnius to be so large and hilly. Of course, Vilnius is not a port city. For us, two days is a good amount of time.

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