October 2024. During a week-long whistle-stop tour of Germany, we visit Dessau-Roßlau in Saxony-Anhalt, Weimar in Thuringia, Coburg in Upper Franconia (Bavaria) and Kassel in Hesse. Smaller cities, yes. But each with their own significance. Untouched by overtourism. We’re avoiding using the white trains of DB Fernverkehr, Deutsche Bahn‘s long-distance section and opt to use the red trains of DB Regio and other regional operators.  

The last leg on our week-long whistle-stop tour was Kassel. But we arrived at Bad Wilhelmshöhe or Bath William’s Height if you want. Kassel-Wilhelmshöhe Railway Station is Kassel’s main station… and not Kassel Hauptbahnhof (which means Main Station). Danny found a wellness themed hotel as well: FischerS – Kurparkhotel Bad Wilhelmshöhe.

Bad Wilhelmshöhe

Bad Wilhelmshöhe, until 2002 Wilhelmshöhe and also called Kassel-Wilhelmshöhe, has been a district of the northern Hessian city of Kassel since 1 July 1906. Since 2002, the district has been a state-approved health resort and Kneipp health resort. 

‘Kneipp health resort’ is a designation given in Germany to health resorts. It is awarded to places where water cures according to Sebastian Kneipp can be carried out, provided that the requirements of the responsible state associated with the designation are met.

Bad Wilhelmshöhe is internationally known above all for the Bergpark Wilhelmshöhe or Wilhelmshöhe Mountain Park in the Habichtswald, where the Kassel Water Games take place, and its special charm as a seaside resort that is part of the City of Kassel.

Bad Wilhelmshöhe is situated in the western part of Kassel, at the base of the Habichtswald. It is regarded as a desirable residential area. To the northwest and north, it borders the Harleshausen districts, while to the northeast it adjoins Kirchditmold. East of the Kassel-Wilhelmshöhe Railway Station are the districts of Vorderer Westen, Wehlheiden, Süsterfeld-Helleböhn, and Brasselsberg to the south.

Townscape

A significant portion of the Wilhelmshöhe district is covered by the expansive and forested areas of the Hoher Habichtswald. Bad Wilhelmshöhe forms part of the Habichtswald Nature Park, which includes the renowned Bergpark Wilhelmshöhe. 

The eastern section of the district is predominantly densely built. The historic neighbourhoods of Wahlershausen and Rammelsberg feature traditional village structures and old half-timbered houses interspersed with meadows and farmland. 

The Drusel stream flows through the district below the tram depot, becoming channelled underground near the Federal Social Court. South of Wilhelmshöher Allee, historically linking the city palace and the park palace, reminiscent of the Berlin Residence, are Wilhelminian-era quarters. These areas boast elegant front gardens and retain some impressive examples of eclectic architecture, particularly along Landgraf-Karl-Straße.

The highest point within Bad Wilhelmshöhe is Hohe Gras, a forested peak in the Hoher Habichtswald, rising to 614.8 metres above sea level.

At the far western edge of Bad Wilhelmshöhe, the district shares a border with the municipality of Habichtswald, which includes a restaurant near the boundary between Hohe Gras and the Zum Silbersee restaurant. To the south, between Hohe Gras and Kleiner Herbsthaus mountain, the area adjoins the municipality of Schauenburg, located south of Habichtswald.

Sights and sites

Notable sights in Bad Wilhelmshöhe include the Wilhelmshöhe Mountain Park in the Habichtswald forest, featuring the iconic Hercules monument atop the Karlsberg. The park is also home to Wilhelmshöhe Palace and the Löwenburg, both situated on the eastern slope of the mountain, where the renowned Kassel water games take place.

Near the palace’s ballroom and large greenhouse stands the Schlosshotel, built in the 1950s. For decades, it was considered the premier establishment in the area. From the 1990s until 2006, a casino operated by the State of Hesse brought renewed activity to the restored hotel. Efforts are now focused on assessing the building’s historical value to ensure its preservation and to prevent further modifications or demolition. 

Alongside the Hessenland Hotel at Wilhelmshöher Tor and the Reiss Hotel near Kassel’s main station, the SchlosshHotel is a key example of modern post-war reconstruction.

Within the district’s built-up areas are landmarks such as the Christ Church on Landgraf-Karl-Straße and remnants of the former domain. The area also features several Wilhelminian-era private residences, particularly in the Mulang neighbourhood.

Bergpark Wilhelmshöhe

Our hotel was close to Bergpark Wilhelmshöhe. The Mountain Park often features on photos of Kassel. 

The Bergpark Wilhelmshöhe is one of the largest hillside parks in Europe and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was established in 1696 by Landgrave Carl of Hesse-Kassel and developed over the centuries into a Baroque and later English landscape garden. The park spans approximately 2.4 km², rising to a height of about 615 metres at its highest point, the Hohe Gras in the Habichtswald forest.

The layout of the Bergpark reflects a mix of formal Baroque design and naturalistic English garden principles. Its steep terrain includes terraced gardens, wooded areas, and open meadows, creating a harmonious blend of architecture and landscape. 

The centrepiece of the park is the monumental Hercules statue atop the Oktagon, a structure designed by Italian architect Giovanni Francesco Guerniero. The Hercules, completed in 1717, sits at the highest accessible point of the park and serves as a landmark visible across the region.

Key features of the park include the renowned Kassel water games, a series of artificial cascades, fountains, and waterfalls that use gravity to move water through the park, culminating in the large fountain in front of Wilhelmshöhe Palace. The water features, which have operated since 1714, are a masterpiece of hydraulic engineering and attract numerous visitors during scheduled performances.

Wilhelmshöhe Palace, located on the eastern slope of the park, was built between 1786 and 1798 in a Neoclassical style. Originally a summer residence for the landgraves, it later served as a royal palace and is now home to a museum housing the Old Masters collection, antique artefacts, and temporary exhibitions. Another notable structure is the Löwenburg, a romanticised medieval-style castle built in the late 18th century as a private retreat and ornamental garden feature.

The park also contains smaller architectural elements such as the Chinese Pavilion, the Temple of Mercury, and artificial grottoes, which enhance its picturesque qualities. The dense network of pathways, steps, and trails offers varied walking opportunities, but the steep inclines in many parts of the park can make it challenging for some visitors to navigate. 

Comfortable walking shoes are recommended, and a shuttle service is available to assist with access to key points.

Wilhelmshöhe Palace

Schloss Wilhelmshöhe was built in the late 18th century for Landgrave Wilhelm IX of Hesse, it later served as a summer residence and personal retreat for Emperor William II (Kaiser Wilhelm II). 

Today, the palace is home to the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister art gallery, part of the Museumslandschaft Hessen Kassel. Since 2013, Wilhelmshöhe Palace has been recognised as part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site Bergpark Wilhelmshöhe for its significant Baroque architecture and the exceptional water features surrounding it.

The site’s history dates back to the 12th century when it was used as a monastery. Under Philip I, Landgrave of Hesse, it was secularised and converted into a castle. Between 1606 and 1610, Landgrave Moritz replaced the original structure with a new castle. The current Neoclassical palace was designed by Simon Louis du Ry and Heinrich Christoph Jussow and constructed between 1786 and 1798 for Landgrave Wilhelm IX.

During the Napoleonic era, Jérôme Bonaparte, as King of Westphalia, renamed the palace Napoleonshöhe and appointed Heinrich von Blumenthal as governor. 

Significant renovations, including the construction of side wings, were undertaken during this period. Following the fall of Napoleon and the dissolution of the Kingdom of Westphalia in 1813, the palace returned to the Elector of Hesse-Kassel. 

After Prussia annexed the state in 1866, the palace became part of the House of Hohenzollern’s holdings. It was later used to accommodate the defeated Emperor Napoleon III after the Franco-Prussian War, before he went into exile in England.

From 1899 to 1918, Wilhelmshöhe Palace served as the summer residence of Kaiser Wilhelm II. Following World War I, it became the headquarters of the German Army High Command under Paul von Hindenburg, where plans for troop withdrawal and demobilisation were organised. The High Command operated from Wilhelmshöhe until February 1919, after which it relocated to Kolberg.

The palace sustained heavy damage during Allied bombing in World War II, with its central section mostly destroyed. 

Between 1968 and 1974, architect Paul Friedrich Posenenske reconstructed the exterior while adapting the interior for its new use as an art museum. Further renovations from 1994 to 2000 aimed to restore elements of the original design, though the palace dome was not rebuilt.

Today, Wilhelmshöhe Palace houses the Antiquities Collection, the Gallery of the Old Masters—featuring one of the world’s largest collections of Rembrandt works—and the Graphic Arts Collection. 

The palace also retains a significant collection of Empire-style furniture, originally assembled by William I, Elector of Hesse, and Jérôme Bonaparte. Some pieces are displayed in the museum, while others are on loan to Bellevue Palace in Berlin, the official residence of the President of Germany.

Playmobil collaboration

When we visited, the museum had a collaboration with Playmobil. The subjects of some paintings were recreated in Playmobil. Some were combined or enhanced. 

Löwenburg

The Löwenburg – Lion’s Castle –  is a romanticised castle ruin built between 1793 and 1801 under the direction of Wilhelm IX. Designed by Heinrich Christoph Jussow, the Löwenburg was conceived as a pleasure palace and ornamental feature rather than a functional fortress. It exemplifies the romantic fascination with medieval architecture that was popular in the late 18th century.

Although constructed to resemble a medieval ruin, the Löwenburg was outfitted with luxurious interiors, blending Gothic and Baroque elements. It served as a private retreat for Wilhelm IX and included living quarters, a chapel, and even a knight’s hall. 

The landgrave intended the Löwenburg to reflect chivalric ideals and his own princely status, and it was also designed to accommodate his future burial, with a crypt included in the structure.

The castle is situated on a prominent hill within the park, offering scenic views of the surrounding landscape. Its design includes towers, battlements, and other features typical of medieval castles, all carefully aged to create the illusion of authenticity. The Löwenburg is surrounded by gardens and pathways that integrate it into the broader landscape of the Bergpark.

During World War II, the Löwenburg sustained significant damage from Allied bombing. Restoration efforts have since been undertaken to preserve the structure, though much of it remains a ruin. Today, the Löwenburg is a popular attraction within Bergpark Wilhelmshöhe, offering guided tours that provide insights into its history, design, and the romantic ideals that inspired its creation.

Hercules and the Oktogon

The Hercules (Herkules with a K in German) is a monumental copper statue of the mythical hero Hercules, standing atop an octagonal structure known as the Oktogon. It serves as the central landmark of the park and a symbol of Kassel. The statue, completed in 1717, was designed by the Italian architect Giovanni Francesco Guerniero at the request of Landgrave Carl of Hesse-Kassel.

The Hercules stands 8.25 metres tall, mounted on a pyramid-shaped base that rises above the Oktogon, which itself is an architectural masterpiece. The entire structure reaches a height of approximately 71 metres. Including the hill on which it is located, the Hercules is positioned at an elevation of 515 metres above sea level, making it visible from miles away.

The statue depicts Hercules in a triumphant pose, holding his iconic club and lion’s skin. It was inspired by the Farnese Hercules, a famous classical sculpture, symbolising strength and the virtues of the ruler. 

The Oktogon, built between 1701 and 1717, is a massive Baroque structure featuring terraces and cascades that form part of the park’s elaborate water displays.

The Hercules monument marks the starting point of the Kassel water features, a gravity-fed system of waterfalls, cascades, and fountains that descend through the Bergpark. The water features culminate in a large fountain near Wilhelmshöhe Palace, with jets reaching up to 50 metres high.

Due to its steep location and intricate design, the Hercules and the Oktogon are a testament to Baroque engineering and artistry. The monument has been extensively restored to preserve its structural integrity and historical significance. 

The strength of Hercules

Visitors can climb the terraces and enjoy panoramic views of Kassel and the surrounding region. You will need the strength of Hercules to climb the many steps. For Danny, it was too much. He was knackered. 

It ís very high and a very steep climb. Unfortunately and frustratingly we were 8 minutes too late for he last admission into the Oktogon. And Germans being German, it was too late. We underestimated the hike from the Palace to Hercules.

So?

Bergpark Wilhelmshöhe is huge, is steep, is beautiful. But it’s a park. So hikes are ‘civilized’. Absolutely a top landmark of Kassel. 

Dessau – Weimar – Coburg – Kassel 2024

1. REVIEW | European Sleeper night train.
2. GERMANY | Bauhaus in Dessau.
3. DESSAU | Technikmuseum Hugo Junkers Engineering Museum.
4. REVIEW | Radisson Blu Fürst Leopold Hotel Dessau.
5. SAXONY-ANHALT | A day in Dessau.
6. GERMANY | Bauhaus in Weimar.
7. GERMANY | Weimar Classicism, the Wittumspalais of Duchess Anna Amalia and the Weimar Haus Experience.
8. GERMANY | The ‘Weimar’ in Weimar Republic.
9. REVIEW | Hotel Elephant Weimar.
10. THURINGIA | A day in Weimar.
11. COBURG | Ehrenburg Palace.
12. FRANCONIA | Veste Coburg.
13. REVIEW | Ibis Styles Coburg.
14. FRANCONIA | Coburg, cradle of crowns.