Autumn 2024. Ten years after my first trip to Seoul in 2014, I am returning to the Republic of Korea, better known as South Korea. Not solo this time, but with Oriol, who has never been to Korea. On the itinerary: flying with Qatar Airways to Incheon via Doha, the capital Seoul, the historic city of Gyeongju, Busan, Jeju Island and a second stint in Seoul, where we are joined by Sehyeon. We’re spending two weeks in South Korea. The ROK is such a popular destination now. Will we experience overtourism?  

In three of the four hotels we visited in Korea;

1. Fraser Place Namdaemun Seoul;
2. Commodore Hotel Busan;
3. Astar Hotel in Jeju City;

there was a what the hotels called a sauna. A wellness area with a gym and a bathhouse. In Korea, this is called a jjimjilbang (찜질방).

What is a jjimjilbang? 

A jjimjilbang is a Korean-style bathhouse and sauna complex that offers a range of facilities for relaxation, wellness, and communal socializing. These facilities are found throughout South Korea and serve as cultural hubs where people of all ages can enjoy various treatments, spas, baths, and leisure areas. 

The word ‘jjimjilbang’ combines ‘jjimjil‘, which refers to heating or steaming, and ‘bang’, meaning room, essentially denoting a place where people gather to experience heat treatments and relaxation. Jjimjilbangs play a prominent role in Korean culture, reflecting the nation’s focus on wellness, community, and the therapeutic properties of heat and water.

How does a jjimjilbang work?

Upon entering a jjimjilbang, guests typically pay an admission fee, which grants access to the entire facility for several hours or even overnight, as many jjimjilbangs remain open 24 hours a day. 

Once admitted, guests receive a set of garments, usually a t-shirt and shorts, to wear in the communal areas. Men and women enter separate changing and bath areas, as most jjimjilbangs have gender-segregated baths due to cultural norms around privacy in South Korea. 

Gendered area

In these bath areas called mogyoktang (목욕탕) patrons thoroughly cleanse themselves in showers before entering the hot baths, which are maintained at varying temperatures. Hot tubs, cold pools, and sometimes specialty baths infused with herbal ingredients like ginseng or green tea provide different bathing options for relaxation and skin health.

I’ve done jjimjilbangs (Korea), onsen and sentō (Japan) before and in my experience the wet area is really for washing. 

There are two types of showers. Standing-up showers as we westerners are used to, but also low showers. You sit on a stool or tabouret and you wash yourself like that. You can use basins as well. 

I have seen men brushing their teeth there, shave their beard and even groom their pubes. For all the rest to see. Because in the wet area, people don’t really hide their genitals. The older the patrons, the less shy they are. Tooth paste and and shaving cream is usually provided. You can buy a cheap toothbrush at the attendant. 

You often see friends showering and bathing together and have conversations. 

Once out of the wet area, you’ll have ‘beauty stations’. Brushes, combs, earbuds, hair products, deodorant, … are all provided.

Sometimes there’s a barber. And often there’s a scrubber or masseur. Scrubbing and exfoliating are popular.

Communal area

The communal areas are the core of the jjimjilbang experience, offering a variety of heated rooms with different temperatures and materials. These rooms might include saunas made of jade, charcoal, or Himalayan salt, each known for specific purported health benefits. 

These activities are clothed. 

For example, charcoal is believed to purify the air and absorb toxins, while jade is thought to emit beneficial infrared rays that soothe muscles and improve circulation. 

In addition to these specialty rooms, jjimjilbangs often feature ice rooms where patrons can cool down after experiencing the heat. The design of these rooms creates a circuit-like journey through varying temperatures that stimulate blood circulation, cleanse the skin, and promote relaxation.

Resting area

Jjimjilbangs typically include various amenities beyond baths and saunas. Sleeping rooms provide resting areas where visitors can take naps or sleep overnight. 

Many jjimjilbangs offer gender-segregated sleeping quarters, as well as shared sleeping areas for families or friends. Floor mats, pillows, and blankets are often available for comfort, though the sleeping spaces are usually quite basic. 

Indeed, you can expect plastic mattresses, bamboo mats and wooden or plastic mattress-like headrests.

Additionally, jjimjilbangs frequently house entertainment facilities such as movie rooms, PC rooms for gaming, and reading areas. These spaces make jjimjilbangs popular among families, young adults, and older patrons alike, catering to diverse recreational needs.

Eating area

Dining facilities are also an essential part of the jjimjilbang experience. Most jjimjilbangs have a snack bar or a full restaurant offering classic Korean dishes like ramen, kimchi, rice cakes, and beverages, with one of the most iconic treats being sikhye (식혜), a traditional sweet rice drink served cold. 

Food and drinks are typically enjoyed in designated dining areas within the communal zones, though people can bring snacks into the lounge areas as well. The accessibility of food, entertainment, and relaxation facilities means that many visitors spend hours or even an entire day within the jjimjilbang.

Hotel version

The hotel version of a jjjimjilbang is obviously smaller. Thet also don’t call it jjimjilbang, but sauna. 

So you can expect the washing and bathing facilities. 

In Seoul, the sauna was included for hotel guests. But I’m pretty adamant there were also outsiders, as there lockers were patrons put their shoes and toiletries. 

The Palais Royal sauna at the Commodore in Busan was much larger. It had its own gym, a resting area and a food area. Although I didn’t see any activity there. 

Most men present were outsiders, I reckon. They knew each other as well. It’s funny to see a man brushing his teeth under the shower, facing the rest, so showing everything and the bowing to an acquaintance. I love this lack of shyness. 

The sauna in Jeju was quite popular. I’m guessing such hotel saunas are premium and thus more expensive then regular, everyday saunas down the street(s). But here also there were clearly regular guests.

Directive staff

What struck me though is how directive the staff was. They scrutinized with a ‘what is he doing?’ look on their face. I do know how a Korean sauna works. But every location has a different lay-out so you need to figure out where the facilities re, what is on offer, where the fresh towels are and where to dispose of the used one.

But all the attendants looked annoyed at this. It’s like they don’t realize they work at a hotel sauna and by definition there will be people who are curious and will want to figure things out for themselves. 

But no, they point thins out quite bluntly. And yes, there’s a language barrier. But still. Quite a few attendants made me feel like a nuisance. As if they don’t like hotel guests. But then they’re forgetting where they work. 

But…

But I enjoy this communal bathing. I love to have shower options, different kinds of baths.

So just go with the flow and enjoy this casual and laid-back experience.  

South Korea 2024

1. QUESTION | Should you be scared of travelling to South Korea?.
2. REVIEW | Qatar Airways – economy – Boeing 787-8 Dreamliner – Brussels to Doha.
3. QATAR | Hamad International Airport (DOH) in Doha.
4. REVIEW | Qatar Airways – economy – Airbus A350 – Doha to Seoul / Incheon.
5. SOUTH KOREA | Landing at Incheon, retrieving the Wowpass and taking the AREX to Seoul Station.
6. REVIEW | Fraser Place Namdaemun Seoul near City Hall.
7. SEOUL | Deoksugung Palace by day.
8. SEOUL | Admiral Yi Sun-sin – King Sejong the Great – Gyeongbokgung Palace – National Folk Museum SEOUL | Admiral Yi Sun-sin – King Sejong the Great – Gyeongbokgung Palace – National Folk Museum.
9. SEOUL | Bukchon Hanok Village – Insadong Culture Street – Jogyesa Temple – Gwangjang Market – Cheonggyecheon Stream.
10. SEOUL 2024 | Dongdaemun Design Plaza.
11. SHOPPING IN SEOUL | Myeongdong – Lotte Young Plaza – Avenuel – Lotte Department Store.
12. SEOUL | Namsan Mountain Park and N Seoul Tower.
13. SOUTH KOREA | Seoul Station.
14. REVIEW | Korail KTX Seoul – Gyeongju – Busan.
15. GYEONGJU | Daereungwong – Cheonmachong – Cheomseongdae Observatory – Banwolseong Fortress – Anapji Pond – Woljeonggyo Bridge – Gyo-dong.
16. REVIEW | Hotel Palace in Gyeongju.
17. GYEONGJU | Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto.
18. GYEONGJU | Woljeonggyo Bridge – Gyeongju National Museum – Eupseong Fortress – Shopping.
19. REVIEW | Korail KTX Gyeongju to Busan 1st class.
20. BUSAN | Gamcheon Culture Village.
21. BUSAN | Jagalchi Fish Market.
22. REVIEW | Commodore Hotel Busan.
23. KOREA | Haedong Yonggung Temple in Busan.
24. BUSAN | Haedong Blue Line Park, Sky Capsules, Beach Train and Haeundae Green Railway.
25. BUSAN | Shinsegae Centum City Department Store, Gwangalli Beach, Busan Tower.
26. QUEER KOREA | Beomil-ro, Busan’s gay street.
27. SOUTH KOREA | Jin Air from Busan to Jeju.
28. SOUTH KOREA | Jeju City during Tamna Culture Festival.
29. REVIEW | Astar Hotel in Jeju City.
30. JEJU ISLAND | Hamdeok Beach – Seongsan Ilchilbong volcano – Ilchulland with lava tube – Wonang Waterfalls – Cheonjiyeon Waterfalls.
31. JEJU ISLAND | Sojeonbang & Jeonbang Waterfalls – Eongtto Waterfalls – Gaetkkak Jusangjeollidae Cliffs – Cheonjeyeon Waterfall & Seonim Bridge.
32. JEJU ISLAND | Museum of Sex and Health in Seogwipo.
33. JEJU ISLAND | Eongal Coastal Trail and Iho Tewoo Horse Lighthouses.
34. SOUTH KOREA | Jeju Island.