Autumn 2024. Ten years after my first trip to Seoul in 2014, I am returning to the Republic of Korea, better known as South Korea. Not solo this time, but with Oriol, who has never been to Korea. On the itinerary: flying with Qatar Airways to Incheon via Doha, the capital Seoul, the historic city of Gyeongju, Busan, Jeju Island and a second stint in Seoul, where we are joined by Sehyeon. We’re spending two weeks in South Korea. The ROK is such a popular destination now. Will we experience overtourism?  

Friday was fly day. Our flight as actually on Saturday, but we had to be at Incheon late on Friday. But a travel day is always a bit stressful, as you have to keep an eye on the clock.

Radical storage

First we hat to check-out from the Airbnb apartment and store our luggage somewhere. Online we found Radical Storage. It looked super professional and slick and it had a storage place very nearby: MK Liberty House.

But MK Liberty House turned out to be a shabby guesthouse, full of stored luggage. It was disorganised and didn’t us make feel confident. But we thought “this will be fine, it’s Korea”. And yes, we will recover our bags later that day without issues. 

Sehyeon returns

We had said goodbye to Sehyeon the night before, as he had plans with a friend. They had dinner together, but the the friend bailed out of continuing the night as he had to work early. So Sehyeon rejoined us. We warned him we would be shopping without a distinct plan or any directions. But he stayed.

Lotte Mart and Lotte Outlet

First we went to Lotte Mart adjacent to Seoul Station. We bought some cosmetics. I had hoped to buy underwear… but no.

Lotte Outlet is a department store with in-store shops of brands. Calling itself ‘outlet’, we expected sharper prices. But no. Oriol was on the lookout for some real bargain, but it was I who bought a sweatshirt at a ‘normal’ price. 

Starfield COEX Mall

We decided to return to Starfield COEX Mall (스타필드코엑스몰) in Gangnam for some proper shopping. I still wanted to buy underwear. 

Starfield COEX Mall is one of Asia’s largest underground shopping complexes and a major attraction in the city. This sprawling shopping and entertainment hub features over 1,400 stores and offers a diverse range of shopping, dining, and entertainment options that draw both locals and tourists. Starfield COEX Mall, often simply called COEX Mall, is a unique destination that combines luxury retail, trendy local brands, a world-class aquarium, a large multiplex cinema, and an iconic library space under one roof.

COEX Mall was originally established in 2000 as part of the COEX Convention and Exhibition Center, which hosts numerous international conferences, conventions, and exhibitions throughout the year. 

In 2014, the mall underwent an extensive renovation, transforming it into the modern, futuristic Starfield COEX Mall that exists today. The renovation introduced a sleek design, open spaces, and additional amenities that cater to visitors of all ages and interests. This transformation was intended to make COEX Mall not only a shopping destination but also a cultural and lifestyle hub that could appeal to Seoul’s diverse, cosmopolitan crowd.

One of the most famous attractions within the mall is the Starfield Library, an expansive open-air library located in the center of the complex.

In addition to shopping and the library, COEX Mall is home to the COEX Aquarium. The COEX Aquarium is designed with a series of themed zones that feature both local marine life and exotic species, allowing visitors to experience different aquatic environments and ecosystems. It’s particularly popular among families and provides an educational experience that complements the entertainment-focused attractions elsewhere in the mall.

The Megabox Cineplex, located within COEX Mall, is a popular spot for moviegoers and regularly screens the latest Korean and international films. With luxurious seating options and cutting-edge technology, it provides a top-tier cinema experience. 

Another entertainment highlight is SMTOWN, a multi-floor space dedicated to K-pop music. This area, operated by SM Entertainment, one of Korea’s leading entertainment agencies, offers a museum, recording studios, merchandise stores, and virtual reality experiences, all related to K-pop artists. 

Fans of K-pop can enjoy an immersive experience in the world of their favorite idols, making it a popular destination for both local fans and international tourists.

COEX Mall also includes an impressive food court and dining area with a wide selection of Korean, Asian, and international cuisine, catering to all tastes and budgets. 

From traditional Korean dishes to Western fast food and upscale dining, the mall’s food options are as varied as its retail offerings. COEX Mall’s design encourages exploration, with wide corridors, open seating areas, and art installations scattered throughout the space. The mall frequently hosts seasonal exhibitions, pop-up stores, and live performances, making each visit unique.

Shopping at COEX Mall

The mall is huge and has a diversity of brands. In contrast to Lotte and department stores, the brands at COEX Mall are less high-end and more affordable. Here I did find Korean briefs, at Codes Combine. 

The first shop we stopped at was a shop with everything and nothing called Artbox. HEMA mixed with Flying Tiger, but also with photo film rolls and internet routers.  

We stopped at TopTen10, where I noticed all sweatpants are flared, with ‘straight’ ankles. None of them offer cuffed ankles. And it wasn’t only the case at Topten10.

Another local brand is SPAO. I saw a nice versatile jacket there, but they hadn’t it in my size. 

It was such type of shops and brands we like and which we were looking for. 

So for us Starfield COEX Mall was much more to our liking than Myeongdong or the big department stores.

South Korea 2024

1. QUESTION | Should you be scared of travelling to South Korea?.
2. REVIEW | Qatar Airways – economy – Boeing 787-8 Dreamliner – Brussels to Doha.
3. QATAR | Hamad International Airport (DOH) in Doha.
4. REVIEW | Qatar Airways – economy – Airbus A350 – Doha to Seoul / Incheon.
5. SOUTH KOREA | Landing at Incheon, retrieving the Wowpass and taking the AREX to Seoul Station.
6. REVIEW | Fraser Place Namdaemun Seoul near City Hall.
7. SEOUL | Deoksugung Palace by day.
8. SEOUL | Admiral Yi Sun-sin – King Sejong the Great – Gyeongbokgung Palace – National Folk Museum SEOUL | Admiral Yi Sun-sin – King Sejong the Great – Gyeongbokgung Palace – National Folk Museum.
9. SEOUL | Bukchon Hanok Village – Insadong Culture Street – Jogyesa Temple – Gwangjang Market – Cheonggyecheon Stream.
10. SEOUL 2024 | Dongdaemun Design Plaza.
11. SHOPPING IN SEOUL | Myeongdong – Lotte Young Plaza – Avenuel – Lotte Department Store.
12. SEOUL | Namsan Mountain Park and N Seoul Tower.
13. SOUTH KOREA | Seoul Station.
14. REVIEW | Korail KTX Seoul – Gyeongju – Busan.
15. GYEONGJU | Daereungwong – Cheonmachong – Cheomseongdae Observatory – Banwolseong Fortress – Anapji Pond – Woljeonggyo Bridge – Gyo-dong.
16. REVIEW | Hotel Palace in Gyeongju.
17. GYEONGJU | Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto.
18. GYEONGJU | Woljeonggyo Bridge – Gyeongju National Museum – Eupseong Fortress – Shopping.
19. REVIEW | Korail KTX Gyeongju to Busan 1st class.
20. BUSAN | Gamcheon Culture Village.
21. BUSAN | Jagalchi Fish Market.
22. REVIEW | Commodore Hotel Busan.
23. KOREA | Haedong Yonggung Temple in Busan.
24. BUSAN | Haedong Blue Line Park, Sky Capsules, Beach Train and Haeundae Green Railway.
25. BUSAN | Shinsegae Centum City Department Store, Gwangalli Beach, Busan Tower.
26. QUEER KOREA | Beomil-ro, Busan’s gay street.
27. SOUTH KOREA | Jin Air from Busan to Jeju.
28. SOUTH KOREA | Jeju City during Tamna Culture Festival.
29. REVIEW | Astar Hotel in Jeju City.
30. JEJU ISLAND | Hamdeok Beach – Seongsan Ilchilbong volcano – Ilchulland with lava tube – Wonang Waterfalls – Cheonjiyeon Waterfalls.
31. JEJU ISLAND | Sojeonbang & Jeonbang Waterfalls – Eongtto Waterfalls – Gaetkkak Jusangjeollidae Cliffs – Cheonjeyeon Waterfall & Seonim Bridge.
32. JEJU ISLAND | Museum of Sex and Health in Seogwipo.
33. JEJU ISLAND | Eongal Coastal Trail and Iho Tewoo Horse Lighthouses.
34. SOUTH KOREA | Jeju Island.
35. HOW TO | Hotel saunas in South Korea.
36. SOUTH KOREA | Flying Jin Air from Jeju City to Seoul Gimpo.
37. SEOUL | Changdeokgung – Secret Garden – Changgyeonggung.
38. SEOUL | Seodaemun Hongje Waterfall – Yeouido Hangang Park – Ttukseom Hangang Park – 2024 Seoul Hangang River Light Drone Light Show – Hwayang-dong.
39. SEOUL | Gangnam – Seonjeongneung Royal Tombs – Starfield COEX Mall & Library – Banpo Hangang Park – Some Sevit.
40. GAY ITAEWON | Homo Hill = Usadan-ro 12-gil (우사단로12길) in Seoul, South Korea.
41. GAY SEOUL | Jongno 3-ga ft. Bar MoU.