It’s been a while since I used a travel agent to plan a trip. But a major travel agent in Belgium posted a deal one can’t refuse in a newsletter in June 2023. Flights from Amsterdam Airport Schiphol to Hong Kong with Cathay Pacific and three nights at the four-star Park Hotel Hong Kong in the Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon area. So I messaged Oriol in ‘panic’ and pressured him to decide quickly (as the deal was popular and the the offer limited in time and availability) to come along to this Special Administrative Region (SAR) of the People’s Republic of China. Being four days in Hong Kong, we used one of these days to Macau (also often spelled Macao) the other SAR. We were there in November 2023.

As we arrived early enough on Tuesday and departed late on Friday night, we count our city trip to Hong Kong and Macau as four days. Was this enough? What struck us? Any advice we can give? 

Cash is emperor

Cash is king? No, cash is emperor. Many shops and services don’t take credit or debit card. Yes, there is the Octopus card, Hong Kong’s answer to Suica or Pasmo in Japan (and specifically Tokyo). A pre-paid card you mainly use for public transport, in convenience stores such as the 7 Eleven and some restaurants.

But you need to top up your Octopus card with cash. You can do that at 7 Eleven or at specific ATM-type machines. The latter only take 50 and 100 Hong Kong dollar notes.

On that note, HK dollar notes are special. The issue of Hong Kong dollar notes is governed today by the Hong Kong Monetary Authority (HKMA), the governmental currency board of Hong Kong. Under licence from the HKMA, three commercial banks issue their own banknotes for general circulation in the region. They are Hongkong and Shanghai Banking Corporation Limited; the Bank of China (Hong Kong) Limited; and the Standard Chartered Bank (Hong Kong) Limited. 

Notes are also issued by the HKMA itself. In most countries of the world the issue of banknotes is handled exclusively by a single central bank or government. The arrangements in Hong Kong are unusual but not unique; a comparable system is used in the United Kingdom, where seven banks issue banknotes. 

Prepare yourself at the airport

Immigration was super easy. The attendant didn’t say a word. After you exit the secured area and you are in the publicly accessible arrivals hall, you need to get Hong Kong dollars. You can exchange your euros, US dollars, British pounds or other popular currencies or you can withdraw cash with a credit card. 

Get enough HK dollars. If you need to exchange or withdraw more afterwards, you may not have the time to get rid f the large denominations. 

With your fresh cash, get a local sim card. Be smart and get a sim card which also covers Macau.

Also, buy ad top up your Octopus card. Then you’re ready to go.

Crowded, chaotic but not overwhelming

The streets of Hong Kong are crowded and chaotic, although sometimes a block is unexplainably quiet. Oriol was annoyed by the different paces of people on the streets. Sometimes, without warning, someone would just stop and you need to hit the brakes. 

The smell of food

You smell food being prepared everywhere. And although that sounds and sometimes smells nice, it is often an unpleasant concoction of the smell of oils, grease, spices and other fumes. 

Safe alleyways

We have used some eery looking alleyways in Hong Kong, but they all felt safe. 

Hong Kong can be very hot and humid, which gives buildings and infrastructure sometimes a worn out, ill-maintained look. But it’s the consequence of the climate. 

Hong Kong felt really safe as a tourist. I am very aware of political tensions, but we didn’t feel that. 

Hunks

We have seen many hunks. Going to the gym is very popular. I’m guessing it’s partly to not be home where there is little space or privacy. 

Casual outerwear

Hong Kong residents are not afraid to be very casual, wearing sports outfits, trackies, sweatpants and sweatsuits, and outerwear fit for a climb. Outerwear for hiking is very popular in Asia in general. I have seen the same fashion in Japan and South Korea. 

Food is cheap, not the rest

Food is cheap, eating out is very cheap. But clothes and shoes which are no knock-offs aren’t not (much) cheaper than in Western Europe. 

English proficiency

Hong Kong has a relatively high level of English proficiency compared to many other regions in Asia. English is one of the official languages of Hong Kong, alongside Mandarin. But most speak Cantonese, the language of the Guangdong province. 

The city has a history of British influence, as it was a British colony until 1997, and this has contributed to the widespread use of English in various aspects of daily life.

In urban areas, especially in business, government, and tourism sectors, English is commonly used, and many signs, official documents, and services are available in English. In schools, English is a mandatory subject, and many students are bilingual in English and Cantonese.

That said, the level of English proficiency can vary among individuals and communities. While many people in Hong Kong are fluent in English, there are others, particularly in older generations or in more rural areas, who may have limited English proficiency.

Overall, for travelers and expatriates, English is generally sufficient for communication in most situations, and many locals are comfortable conversing in English. However, it’s always beneficial to learn a few basic Cantonese phrases or expressions as a sign of cultural respect and to enhance your experience in Hong Kong.

In practice, one hook-up spoke English well, the other needed Google Translate. In some restaurants, we pointed what we wanted to eat. 

The internet can’t choose between China, Hong Kong or Macau

The internet can’t choose between China, Hong Kong or Macau. All three are top-level domains or TLD’s. China has .cn, Hong Kong .hk and Macau .mo (from the spelling Macao). 

But Swarm for instance, treated Hong Kong as separate, while checking in in Macau was seen as checking in in China. Except Macau as ‘state’. 

So are both SARs different? I don’t know. The internet at least thinks so.

Number plates

Cars used across the regional borders, need second or third number plates (license plates). So it’s not unusual to see a car having Hong Kong and China number plates, or Macau and China plates, or Hong Kong and Macau plates. A few times I saw cars with three number plates. 

Coming from Europe, it’s odd each others cars and insurances aren’t mutually recognized. Especially as i the end, it’s one country, just with two systems. 

Is four days enough? 

I am lucky Oriol and I have a similar travel rhythm, which is quite high. We’re here, we’re queer and time is money. We want to feel we have ‘done the place’. So our travel pace was and is high. 

For us, four days were enough. Especially as the flight hours were very favourable. We didn’t do any museum, and we certainly have missed some musts, but we didn’t leave Hong Kong with a sense of unfinished business. 

So?

I can only speak for myself and say I enjoyed Hong Kong. Exotic and complex, yet easy to roam as a tourist. I love Asia, especially buzzing first-world places such Japan, South Korea and Taiwan. So I was very satisfied. 

Hong Kong & Macau 2023

1. REVIEW | Cathay Pacific Airbus A350 in Economy – Amsterdam Schiphol to Hong Kong.
2. HONG KONG | Tsim Sha Tsui – Golden Mile & Nathan Road – Kowloon Park – Sneaker Street & Fa Yuen Street Market – A Symphony of Lights – Temple Street Night Market.
3. REVIEW | Park Hotel Hong Kong in Kowloon.
4. HONG KONG ISLAND CENTRAL DISTRICT | Man Mo Temple – Lan Fong Yuen – Central–Mid-Levels escalator – Victoria Peak & Peak Tram – tram – Victoria Park – Star Ferry.
5. Gay Hong Kong.
6. REVIEW | TurboJet high-speed ferry from Hong Kong to Macau.
7. Macau.
8. MACAU GRAND PRIX | Trying to catch glimpses of the Guia Circuit, Formula 3 and GT cars.
9. CATHAY PACIFIC | Free In-town Check-in Service at MTR’s Hong Kong Station and Kowloon Station.
10. HONG KONG | Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery.
11. Learning about life in Hong Kong by visiting IKEA at HomeSquare in Sha Tin.
12. HONG KONG | Ngong Ping 360 and The Big Buddha or Tian Tan Buddha on Lantau Island.