Autumn 2024. Ten years after my first trip to Seoul in 2014, I am returning to the Republic of Korea, better known as South Korea. Not solo this time, but with Oriol, who has never been to Korea. On the itinerary: flying with Qatar Airways to Incheon via Doha, the capital Seoul, the historic city of Gyeongju, Busan, Jeju Island and a second stint in Seoul, where we are joined by Sehyeon. We’re spending two weeks in South Korea. The ROK is such a popular destination now. Will we experience overtourism?  

Day 2 in Gyeongju was a full day so we could go a bit further afield, for the Bulguksa Temple and the Seokguram Grotto. It was quite a bus ride to get there. It was a public holiday or the day after, so the bus was full.

Bulguksa

Bulguksa (불국사) is a Buddhist temple located on Tohamsan in Gyeongju. It is a head temple of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism and houses six National Treasures, including the Dabotap and Seokgatap stone pagodas, Cheongun-gyo (Blue Cloud Bridge), and two gilt-bronze statues of Buddha. 

Recognized as Historic and Scenic Site No. 1 by the South Korean government, Bulguksa and the nearby Seokguram Grotto were added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1995.  

Considered a masterpiece of Silla-era Buddhist art, Bulguksa was initially built as a small temple under King Beopheung in 528. The current temple was constructed under King Gyeongdeok in 751, initiated by chief minister Kim Daeseong to pacify the spirits of his parents. The Silla royal court completed the building in 774 after Kim’s death, naming it Bulguksa (Temple of the Buddha Land).

Throughout history, Bulguksa underwent renovations during the Goryeo and early Joseon Dynasties. It was significantly damaged during the Imjin wars but was subsequently reconstructed and expanded. After World War II and the Korean War, a partial restoration was conducted in 1966. A major restoration project followed between 1969 and 1973, led by President Park Chung Hee, which brought Bulguksa to its current form.

Structure

The temple is situated on the slopes of Tohamsan, with the entrance, Sokgyemun, featuring a double-sectioned staircase and bridge leading to the temple compound. The stairway consists of 33 steps, symbolizing the 33 steps to enlightenment.

Bulguksa is unique for its two pagodas: the three-story Seokgatap (Sakyamuni Pagoda) and the Dabotap (Many Treasure Pagoda). Seokgatap, a traditional Korean-style stone pagoda, stands at 8.2 meters tall and is over 13 centuries old. 

Dabotap, known for its ornate structure, is 10.4 meters tall and dedicated to the Many Treasures Buddha mentioned in the Lotus Sutra.

The temple’s layout reflects the terrestrial and celestial abodes, with the terrestrial centered around Daeungjeon (Hall of Great Enlightenment) and the celestial centered around Geungnakjeon (Hall of Paradise). Daeungjeon houses the Shakyamuni Buddha, while Geungnakjeon houses the gilt-bronze Buddha (National Treasure No. 27). 

Other notable structures include Museoljeon (Hall of No Words), Gwaneumjeon (Avalokitesvara’s Shrine), and Birojeon (Vairocana Buddha Hall).

Historical significance

In 1966, a version of the Dharani sutra, one of the earliest woodblock prints in the world, was discovered at Bulguksa. The sutra, dated between 704 and 751, was printed on a mulberry paper scroll measuring 8 cm by 630 cm.

Bulguksa’s historical significance lies in its preservation of original Silla construction elements and its role as a center of Buddhist practice and culture throughout various dynasties. The temple’s architectural beauty, artistic treasures, and spiritual significance have earned it recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a symbol of Korean cultural heritage.

Seokguram Grotto is a renowned Buddhist temple complex located on Tohamsan in Gyeongju, South Korea. It is situated 750 meters above sea level and offers breathtaking views of the East Sea. In 1962, it was designated as the 24th National Treasure of South Korea, and in 1995, it was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List along with Bulguksa Temple.

Seokguram Grotto

The Seokguram Grotto (석굴암) is considered one of the finest examples of Buddhist sculptures in the world. It is believed to have been built by Kim Daeseong. The Silla court completed the grotto in 774.

The grotto is a popular tourist destination, with many visitors coming to witness the sunrise over the sea from the seated Buddha’s perch. It is known for its architectural beauty, sculptural masterpieces, and spiritual significance.

Architecture

The tradition of carving Buddha images, holy images, and stupas into cliff walls and natural caves originated in India. While the Korean Peninsula‘s geology is not ideal for such carvings, Seokguram Grotto demonstrates exceptional craftsmanship.

The grotto features a rectangular antechamber, a narrow corridor lined with bas-reliefs, and a main rotunda housing the central Buddha statue. The Buddha, believed to represent Seokgamuni Buddha, is surrounded by fifteen panels of bodhisattvas, arhats, and ancient Indian gods. The rotunda’s ceiling is decorated with half moons and a lotus flower.

The grotto was constructed using hundreds of granite stones without mortar, held together by stone rivets. Natural ventilation was incorporated into the design. The dome of the rotunda measures 6.84 meters to 6.58 meters in diameter.

Seokguram Grotto symbolizes a spiritual journey into Nirvana. Pilgrims would traditionally start their journey at Bulguksa or the foot of Tohamsan.

Sculpture

The main Buddha statue in the grotto is a highly regarded piece of Buddhist art. It stands at 3.5 meters tall and is seated on a 1.34-meter lotus pedestal. The Buddha’s realistic form and hand position symbolize enlightenment. The drapery on the Buddha exemplifies Korean interpretations of Indian prototypes.

The grotto also features reliefs of three bodhisattvas, ten disciples, and two Hindu gods along the rotunda wall. Ten statues of bodhisattvas, saints, and the faithful are located in niches above the bas-reliefs. The Four Heavenly Kings guard the corridor, and Vajrapanis figures are located on the walls of the entrance and antechamber.

The Eleven-faced Avalokitesvara, the Bodhisattva of Compassion, is another notable figure in the grotto. It stands at 2.18 meters tall and is the only bas-relief facing forward. The Avalokitesvara wears a crown, robes, and jewelry and holds a vase containing a lotus blossom.

Reconstruction

The Seokguram Grotto has undergone several repairs and renovations throughout history. The most significant restoration took place between 1969 and 1973, led by President Park Chung Hee.

This restoration addressed issues of temperature, humidity control, and structural stability. However, some historians believe that the wooden superstructure built over the antechamber may not have been part of the original design.

Today, the grotto’s interior can only be viewed through a glass wall to protect it from the elements and the large number of visitors.

Visiting the sites

So it’s quite a bus ride to get to Bulguksa. And from there Seokguram we couldn’t walk the trail as there were works on it. So another bus was needed. We took a Kakao Taxi back to the city.

You can’t take photos of the statues inside. 

South Korea 2024

1. QUESTION | Should you be scared of travelling to South Korea?.
2. REVIEW | Qatar Airways – economy – Boeing 787-8 Dreamliner – Brussels to Doha.
3. QATAR | Hamad International Airport (DOH) in Doha.
4. REVIEW | Qatar Airways – economy – Airbus A350 – Doha to Seoul / Incheon.
5. SOUTH KOREA | Landing at Incheon, retrieving the Wowpass and taking the AREX to Seoul Station.
6. REVIEW | Fraser Place Namdaemun Seoul near City Hall.
7. SEOUL | Deoksugung Palace by day.
8. SEOUL | Admiral Yi Sun-sin – King Sejong the Great – Gyeongbokgung Palace – National Folk Museum SEOUL | Admiral Yi Sun-sin – King Sejong the Great – Gyeongbokgung Palace – National Folk Museum.
9. SEOUL | Bukchon Hanok Village – Insadong Culture Street – Jogyesa Temple – Gwangjang Market – Cheonggyecheon Stream.
10. SEOUL 2024 | Dongdaemun Design Plaza.
11. SHOPPING IN SEOUL | Myeongdong – Lotte Young Plaza – Avenuel – Lotte Department Store.
12. SEOUL | Namsan Mountain Park and N Seoul Tower.
13. SOUTH KOREA | Seoul Station.
14. REVIEW | Korail KTX Seoul – Gyeongju – Busan.
15. GYEONGJU | Daereungwong – Cheonmachong – Cheomseongdae Observatory – Banwolseong Fortress – Anapji Pond – Woljeonggyo Bridge – Gyo-dong.
16. REVIEW | Hotel Palace in Gyeongju.