Autumn 2024. Ten years after my first trip to Seoul in 2014, I am returning to the Republic of Korea, better known as South Korea. Not solo this time, but with Oriol, who has never been to Korea. On the itinerary: flying with Qatar Airways to Incheon via Doha, the capital Seoul, the historic city of Gyeongju, Busan, Jeju Island and a second stint in Seoul, where we are joined by Sehyeon. We’re spending two weeks in South Korea. The ROK is such a popular destination now. Will we experience overtourism?  

It was a rainy day in Busan. After exploring Gamcheon Culture Village, we found a place for lunch just in time to shelter from a downpour. 

After lunch we travelled to another landmark of Busan: the Jagalchi Fish Market (자갈치시장).

Jagalchi Fish Market is South Korea’s largest seafood market. It’s ocated along the waterfront in the  Nampo-dong area of Busan. Known for its bustling atmosphere, vast selection of fresh seafood, and iconic history, Jagalchi is a cornerstone of Busan’s identity as a port city. 

It attracts locals and tourists alike who come to explore the lively stalls, sample fresh sashimi, or immerse themselves in Busan’s seafood culture.

The name is said to have originated from ‘jagal‘ (자갈; gravel) because the market used to be surrounded by gravel.

The market’s roots date back to the post-Korean War era when local women, known as ‘Jagalchi ajumma‘ began selling seafood to make a living and support their families. 

These women, easily recognizable in their aprons and rubber boots, became the market’s heart and symbol of resilience, eventually becoming synonymous with Jagalchi itself. The Jagalchi ajumma continue to play a vital role today, managing many of the stalls and demonstrating their expert skills in handling and preparing seafood.

Divided into indoor and outdoor sections, the market offers a diverse range of fresh and live seafood, including fish, octopus, crabs, shrimp, clams, sea cucumbers, and sea squirts. 

The lower levels of the main building house vendors selling live fish and seafood straight from the sea, while the upper floors contain restaurants where visitors can enjoy freshly prepared dishes, like raw fish (hoe), grilled eel, and spicy seafood stews.

For many visitors, part of the experience is selecting seafood from a stall and then having it prepared on-site at one of the nearby eateries, where it can be enjoyed immediately. The outdoor market area also features stalls selling dried fish, shellfish, and traditional Korean seafood snacks, adding to the market’s sensory experience with a mix of vibrant colors, sounds, and ocean scents.

Jagalchi Fish Market has expanded beyond being a commercial hub to become a cultural symbol, hosting an annual Jagalchi Festival in October. The festival features events like fish filleting contests, live music, and cooking demonstrations, celebrating Busan’s maritime culture and the history of the Jagalchi ajumma.

The market is integral to the local economy, and despite modern developments, it retains a traditional charm that highlights Busan’s long-standing relationship with the sea. Jagalchi stands as a testament to Busan’s resilience and adaptation over time, embracing the modern without losing its deep cultural and historical roots.

Around the market

Being there, you get views of Nampo Port (남포항) and Yeongdodaegyo (영도대교) or Yeongdo Bridge.

A visit

We didn’t eat at Jagalchi Fish Market, unfortunately. But while some may be put off by the raw, crude sights of sometimes still living, sometimes barely skinned sea creatures, there’s something very genuine. One of the women was an attraction on her own, singing sale songs. 

South Korea 2024

1. QUESTION | Should you be scared of travelling to South Korea?.
2. REVIEW | Qatar Airways – economy – Boeing 787-8 Dreamliner – Brussels to Doha.
3. QATAR | Hamad International Airport (DOH) in Doha.
4. REVIEW | Qatar Airways – economy – Airbus A350 – Doha to Seoul / Incheon.
5. SOUTH KOREA | Landing at Incheon, retrieving the Wowpass and taking the AREX to Seoul Station.
6. REVIEW | Fraser Place Namdaemun Seoul near City Hall.
7. SEOUL | Deoksugung Palace by day.
8. SEOUL | Admiral Yi Sun-sin – King Sejong the Great – Gyeongbokgung Palace – National Folk Museum SEOUL | Admiral Yi Sun-sin – King Sejong the Great – Gyeongbokgung Palace – National Folk Museum.
9. SEOUL | Bukchon Hanok Village – Insadong Culture Street – Jogyesa Temple – Gwangjang Market – Cheonggyecheon Stream.
10. SEOUL 2024 | Dongdaemun Design Plaza.
11. SHOPPING IN SEOUL | Myeongdong – Lotte Young Plaza – Avenuel – Lotte Department Store.
12. SEOUL | Namsan Mountain Park and N Seoul Tower.
13. SOUTH KOREA | Seoul Station.
14. REVIEW | Korail KTX Seoul – Gyeongju – Busan.
15. GYEONGJU | Daereungwong – Cheonmachong – Cheomseongdae Observatory – Banwolseong Fortress – Anapji Pond – Woljeonggyo Bridge – Gyo-dong.
16. REVIEW | Hotel Palace in Gyeongju.
17. GYEONGJU | Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto.
18. GYEONGJU | Woljeonggyo Bridge – Gyeongju National Museum – Eupseong Fortress – Shopping.
19. REVIEW | Korail KTX Gyeongju to Busan 1st class.
20. BUSAN | Gamcheon Culture Village.