Autumn 2024. Ten years after my first trip to Seoul in 2014, I am returning to the Republic of Korea, better known as South Korea. Not solo this time, but with Oriol, who has never been to Korea. On the itinerary: flying with Qatar Airways to Incheon via Doha, the capital Seoul, the historic city of Gyeongju, Busan, Jeju Island and a second stint in Seoul, where we are joined by Sehyeon. We’re spending two weeks in South Korea. The ROK is such a popular destination now. Will we experience overtourism?  

After the Museum of Sex & Health, it was starting to get dark. It was also raining. But we still wanted to see some sights. Yes, even the dark.

Eongal Coastal Trail

The Eongal Coastal Trail (엉알해안산책로) is a scenic walking path that follows a rugged stretch of coastline near Seogwipo, offering views of volcanic rock formations, turquoise waters, and lush greenery. 

This trail is part of the Jeju Olle Trail (제주올레길) network, a series of connected walking paths around the island. The Eongal Coastal Trail is known for its natural beauty, featuring dramatic cliffs, lava formations, and small hidden beaches along the route. Walkers on this trail can experience Jeju’s coastal ecosystem up close, with opportunities to see local flora and fauna. 

The path is well-marked and suitable for casual hikers, providing scenic spots for photography and quiet areas for relaxation while taking in the landscape.

It was getting dark when we there and wet. There many crabs walking over the tarmac.

What is the Jeju Olle Trail?

The Jeju Olle Trail network is a series of scenic walking paths that encircle Jeju Island. Inspired by pilgrimage trails in Spain, the network was created in 2007 by local resident Suh Myung-sook to showcase Jeju’s diverse landscapes and promote eco-tourism. The network includes 26 main routes and a few smaller connector trails, totaling over 425 kilometres, and each trail offers a different perspective of Jeju’s natural beauty, from coastal cliffs and beaches to volcanic craters, forests, and traditional villages.

The trails are clearly marked with blue and orange ribbons, and each route is designed to be completed in a day. Along the way, walkers encounter local landmarks, cultural sites, and natural wonders, such as Hallasan Mountain, lava tubes, waterfalls, and rural farmland. Each trail provides an immersive experience, allowing visitors to enjoy Jeju’s landscape and culture at a leisurely pace.

Iho Tewoo Horse Lighthouses

Our last sightseeing stop of the day were the Iho Tewoo Horse Lighthouses (이호테우말등대). It was now really dark and properly raining. But we had spotted the Iho Tewoo Horse Lighthouses from the plane so we wanted to see them up close. 

The Iho Tewoo Horse Lighthouses are two distinctive horse-shaped lighthouses located at Iho Beach near Jeju City. One lighthouse is painted red, and the other is white, and both are designed to resemble Jeju’s native horses, known as Jeju ma or Jeju ponies, which are an important cultural symbol of the island. These unique lighthouses were built not only to guide ships along the coast but also to celebrate Jeju’s equestrian heritage.

Standing at the edge of Iho Beach, the lighthouses have become a popular attraction for visitors due to their unusual design and picturesque setting, particularly during sunset when the beach and lighthouses are illuminated in warm colors. 

They are frequently photographed by visitors and provide a whimsical landmark against the backdrop of the sea and sky, adding both functional and cultural value to Jeju’s coastal landscape.

South Korea 2024

1. QUESTION | Should you be scared of travelling to South Korea?.
2. REVIEW | Qatar Airways – economy – Boeing 787-8 Dreamliner – Brussels to Doha.
3. QATAR | Hamad International Airport (DOH) in Doha.
4. REVIEW | Qatar Airways – economy – Airbus A350 – Doha to Seoul / Incheon.
5. SOUTH KOREA | Landing at Incheon, retrieving the Wowpass and taking the AREX to Seoul Station.
6. REVIEW | Fraser Place Namdaemun Seoul near City Hall.
7. SEOUL | Deoksugung Palace by day.
8. SEOUL | Admiral Yi Sun-sin – King Sejong the Great – Gyeongbokgung Palace – National Folk Museum SEOUL | Admiral Yi Sun-sin – King Sejong the Great – Gyeongbokgung Palace – National Folk Museum.
9. SEOUL | Bukchon Hanok Village – Insadong Culture Street – Jogyesa Temple – Gwangjang Market – Cheonggyecheon Stream.
10. SEOUL 2024 | Dongdaemun Design Plaza.
11. SHOPPING IN SEOUL | Myeongdong – Lotte Young Plaza – Avenuel – Lotte Department Store.
12. SEOUL | Namsan Mountain Park and N Seoul Tower.
13. SOUTH KOREA | Seoul Station.
14. REVIEW | Korail KTX Seoul – Gyeongju – Busan.
15. GYEONGJU | Daereungwong – Cheonmachong – Cheomseongdae Observatory – Banwolseong Fortress – Anapji Pond – Woljeonggyo Bridge – Gyo-dong.
16. REVIEW | Hotel Palace in Gyeongju.
17. GYEONGJU | Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto.
18. GYEONGJU | Woljeonggyo Bridge – Gyeongju National Museum – Eupseong Fortress – Shopping.
19. REVIEW | Korail KTX Gyeongju to Busan 1st class.
20. BUSAN | Gamcheon Culture Village.
21. BUSAN | Jagalchi Fish Market.
22. REVIEW | Commodore Hotel Busan.
23. KOREA | Haedong Yonggung Temple in Busan.
24. BUSAN | Haedong Blue Line Park, Sky Capsules, Beach Train and Haeundae Green Railway.
25. BUSAN | Shinsegae Centum City Department Store, Gwangalli Beach, Busan Tower.
26. QUEER KOREA | Beomil-ro, Busan’s gay street.
27. SOUTH KOREA | Jin Air from Busan to Jeju.
28. SOUTH KOREA | Jeju City during Tamna Culture Festival.
29. REVIEW | Astar Hotel in Jeju City.
30. JEJU ISLAND | Hamdeok Beach – Seongsan Ilchilbong volcano – Ilchulland with lava tube – Wonang Waterfalls – Cheonjiyeon Waterfalls.
31. JEJU ISLAND | Sojeonbang & Jeonbang Waterfalls – Eongtto Waterfalls – Gaetkkak Jusangjeollidae Cliffs – Cheonjeyeon Waterfall & Seonim Bridge.
32. JEJU ISLAND | Museum of Sex and Health in Seogwipo.