Autumn 2025. We – Sam and Danny, Michel and Wille, and Timothy – are travelling to Japan for a quite classic tour of the Land of the Rising Sun. We are flying separately as we used miles. On the planning: Tokyo, Kanazawa, Shirakawa, Osaka, and Expo 2025, Hiroshima, Himeji, Miyajima, Kyoto, Nara, Nagoya, Hakone, and back to Tokyo. Three weeks plus some extra days.

Nara is not far from Kyoto, so we made a (half) day trip out of it. Nara, of course, is famous for its sika deer.

Travelling from Kyoto to Nara

Travelling from Kyoto to Nara is straightforward and offers two main rail options: the JR Nara Line and the Kintetsu Kyoto Line. The journey between the two cities takes roughly forty to forty-five minutes, depending on the route chosen.

The JR Nara Line, operated by JR West, runs directly from JR Kyoto Station to JR Nara Station. The fastest service is the Miyakoji Rapid, which completes the journey in about forty-five minutes. Local trains take longer, up to seventy minutes. A one-way ticket costs around ¥720, and the route is fully covered by the Japan Rail Pass. 

JR Nara Station lies a little farther from Nara Park and the main temples than its Kintetsu counterpart, though city buses and a pleasant twenty-minute walk link the station easily with the park area.

The Kintetsu Kyoto Line provides an alternative connection from Kintentsu Kyoto Station (it’s in the same building as JR Kyoto Station) to Kintetsu Nara Station, which is more conveniently located for visitors heading directly to Nara Park, Tōdai-ji Temple, or Kasuga Taisha.

 The fastest limited-express services take around thirty-five minutes, while express trains require forty to forty-five minutes. Fares range from approximately ¥760 for a standard express to ¥1,280 for the limited-express. The line is not covered by the Japan Rail Pass, but its central arrival point often makes it the more practical choice for day-trippers.

Aoniyoshi Sightseeing Limited Express

A third and more distinctive option is the Aoniyoshi Sightseeing Limited Express, a premium service operated by Kintetsu Railway since 2022. Named after an ancient poetic epithet for Nara, the train celebrates the culture of Japan’s first capital through its design and service. 

The four-car 19200-series trainset has been refurbished to evoke a sense of refined nostalgia, with large windows, elegant lighting, and a soft purple-and-gold colour scheme. 

Seating is divided between ‘Twin Seats’, arranged one by one on either side of the aisle, and ‘Salon Seats’, semi-private compartments suitable for groups of three or four. The train also features a small lounge and café counter offering local sweets and souvenirs, as well as a library corner with books related to the region.

The Aoniyoshi operates mainly between Kyoto Station and Kintetsu Nara Station, sometimes extending to Osaka-Namba. The journey takes about thirty-five minutes, comparable in speed to the regular limited-express service. All seats are reserved, and travel requires both the regular base fare (approximately ¥760) and a limited-express surcharge (around ¥730), bringing the total to roughly ¥1,490 one way. Tickets can be booked in advance at Kintetsu stations or online.

While the Aoniyoshi is significantly more expensive than the standard trains, it offers a comfortable and visually distinctive way to travel. For those who enjoy leisurely travel and value the experience as much as the destination, the Aoniyoshi turns a short regional journey into a brief but memorable excursion. For most visitors, however, the regular Kintetsu Limited Express or Rapid Express remains the most practical option—fast, frequent, and direct to the heart of Nara’s historic district.

Nara Park

Nara Park (奈良公園, Nara Kōen) is a public park in the city of Nara, at the foot of Mount Wakakusa. Established in 1880, it is one of Japan’s oldest parks and is managed by Nara Prefecture. It is designated by the Ministry of Education, Culture, Sports, Science and Technology (MEXT) as one of Japan’s ‘Places of Scenic Beauty’. Around 1,200 wild sika deer (シカ, shika) freely roam within the park and are themselves protected as a designated Natural Monument. While the official park area covers 502 hectares, the surrounding grounds of Tōdai-ji, Kōfuku-ji, Kasuga Grand Shrine and the Nara National Museum bring the total area to about 660 hectares.

The park’s history dates to 1880, when 14 hectares of land within Kōfuku-ji’s precincts were designated for public use. Over the following decades, the park expanded to include Tōdai-ji, Kasugano and the slopes of Mount Wakakusa, reaching 535 hectares by 1889. Its present boundaries were defined in 1960 under the Urban Park Act. The park’s landscape includes pine, cherry, maple, plum and cedar trees, as well as Japanese pieris. Wild boar, raccoon dogs and flying squirrels are among the other animals that inhabit the area.

The broader Nara Park area contains several World Heritage Sites, National Treasures and Important Cultural Properties. These include the temples of Tōdai-ji and Kōfuku-ji, Kasuga Grand Shrine, and the Kasugayama Primeval Forest — all listed under the UNESCO World Heritage title Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara. 

Within this zone are 47 designated buildings and 374 cultural artefacts, mainly Buddhist statues and ritual objects. The Kasugayama Primeval Forest is classified as a Special Natural Monument, while the deer population, certain rare trees, and butterfly habitats in the area are designated Natural Monuments.

According to local legend, the deer of Nara were deemed sacred after the god Takemikazuchi arrived from Kashima Shrine in present-day Ibaraki Prefecture riding a white deer. From then on, the animals were venerated as divine messengers by both Kasuga Grand Shrine and Kōfuku-ji.

 Killing a deer was a capital crime until 1637. Following the Second World War, their sacred status was replaced by official protection as a Natural Monument. Today, visitors often feed them with special ‘deer crackers‘ (shika-senbei), sold exclusively within the park.

A 2023 genetic study by Fukushima University, Yamagata University and Nara University of Education confirmed that the deer population in Nara Park forms a distinct genetic group. The findings suggest that the Nara deer diverged from other Kii Peninsula deer around 1,400 years ago — roughly the time Kasuga Grand Shrine was founded — reflecting centuries of local protection and continuity.

In recent decades, Nara’s deer population has fluctuated, raising conservation and safety issues. Numbers reached around 1,500 in the 2010s, prompting measures to manage overpopulation and reduce injuries to visitors. Some deer have suffered malnutrition due to dependence on tourist feeding, although protected care has extended their lifespans beyond those of wild herds.

During the COVID-19 pandemic, the sharp drop in tourism left many deer without food, forcing them to forage beyond the park and increasing the risk of accidents. Populations later recovered, but reports of deer-related injuries also rose. In recent years, authorities have warned that Nara’s wild deer may carry ticks capable of transmitting serious tick-borne illnesses, and visitors are advised to avoid direct contact.

Tōdai-ji

Tōdai-ji (東大寺, Tōdaiji, meaning ‘Eastern Great Temple’) is a vast Buddhist temple complex in the city of Nara. Founded in 738 CE and formally opened in 752 CE, it was one of the Seven Great Temples of Nara and served as the head of the provincial temples established under Emperor Shōmu’s decree. 

Its architecture was inspired by the grand temples of China’s Tang dynasty. Over the centuries, Tōdai-ji has undergone repeated reconstructions, most notably the rebuilding of the Great Buddha Hall in 1709. The hall narrowly escaped collapse in the late 19th century and was stabilised through major restoration projects in the early 20th century and again between 1974 and 1980, when steel framing was discreetly integrated into its wooden structure.

At the heart of Tōdai-ji stands the Great Buddha Hall (Daibutsuden), which houses the world’s largest bronze statue of the Buddha Vairocana, known in Japanese as the Daibutsu. The temple is the headquarters of the Kegon school of Buddhism and, together with its surrounding historic sites, forms part of the UNESCO World Heritage listing ‘Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara’.

The temple’s origins lie in a time of national crisis. During the Tenpyō era, Japan was struck by epidemics, famine and political unrest. In response, Emperor Shōmu launched an ambitious plan to promote Buddhism as a means of spiritual protection for the nation. 

In 743, he ordered the construction of a great image of Buddha, and Tōdai-ji—then known as Kinshōsen-ji—was chosen as the provincial temple of Yamato Province and later as the head temple of all provincial temples. The Great Buddha, made of bronze and gilded with imported gold, was completed in 751 after three years of casting and vast public effort. The following year, a grand eye-opening ceremony was held, attended by thousands of monks and dignitaries, with the Indian monk Bodhisena presiding.

During the Nara period, Tōdai-ji became the administrative and spiritual centre of state Buddhism. It housed offices for all six Buddhist schools of Japan at the time—Hossō, Kegon, Jōjitsu, Sanron, Ritsu and Kusha—and was the site of official ordinations under the Vinaya code. I

n 754, the Chinese monk Ganjin conducted ordination ceremonies for Empress Kōken and others, establishing Tōdai-ji as Japan’s primary ordination centre. Later figures such as Kūkai and Saichō also received ordination there. Under Kūkai’s influence, esoteric teachings and ceremonies were introduced, including the construction of an Abhiseka Hall for tantric initiations.

As political and religious power shifted to Mount Hiei and the emerging Tendai sect, and as the imperial court’s influence declined after the Genpei War, Tōdai-ji’s prominence faded. The Vinaya ordination lineage eventually died out, marking the end of its role as Japan’s main training centre for monks.

The temple complex was once among the largest in the world, with two enormous 100-metre pagodas flanking the Great Buddha Hall, along with lecture halls, libraries and monks’ quarters. Most of these structures were lost to earthquakes and fires. The surviving Shōsōin storehouse preserves thousands of artefacts from the 8th century, providing invaluable insights into Japan’s early Buddhist and cultural history.

The present Great Buddha Hall, completed in 1709, is about 30% smaller than its predecessor yet remains one of the most imposing wooden buildings in existence. The current Great Buddha’s head and hands date from later restorations, while the statue itself weighs around 500 tonnes and stands nearly 15 metres tall. Inside, x-rays have revealed relics such as pearls, jewels and even a human tooth, believed to be offerings from Emperor Shōmu.

The temple’s main gate, the Great South Gate (Nandaimon), was rebuilt in the late 12th century in the Daibutsuyō architectural style. It houses two colossal guardian statues, the Niō, carved by the master sculptors Unkei and Kaikei. These figures were restored between 1988 and 1993 in a major conservation project led by specialists from Kyoto’s National Treasure Repairing Institute.

In the modern era, Tōdai-ji has remained a symbol of cultural preservation. A large-scale restoration between 1904 and 1913 saved the temple from collapse, and further reconstruction in the 1970s reinforced its structural integrity while maintaining its historical authenticity. 

The Tōdai-ji Culture Centre, opened in 2011, now displays many of the temple’s sculptures and treasures, alongside research and archival facilities.

Tōdai-ji’s influence extends beyond religion. It has featured in Japanese literature and art for centuries, including in haiku by Matsuo Bashō. It has appeared in films, television dramas, and even video games such as ‘Age of Empires II‘. 

Following the 2019 Notre-Dame fire in Paris, the temple raised funds for the cathedral’s restoration, highlighting the shared global heritage of sacred architecture.

A visit of Nara

While we spent only a couple of hours in Nara, it is part of the ‘Japan experience’. The deer are ver aware of humans and they know what they’re doing to get attention, and thus food. It even looks like they’re organised as human beggars can be. 

Nara is very touristy, but not without reason. 

2025 Journey Across Japan

1. Japan’s Superconducting Maglev train breaks world speed record at 603 km/h.
2. Japan’s maglev bullet train delayed to 2035 or later as costs rise to ¥11 trillion.
3. QUESTION | Should you be stressed about travelling to Japan, and fear of missing out?.
4. Brussels Airport to Milan Malpensa with Brussels Airlines, operated by Air Baltic, ft. the 2025 check-in and boarding software hack.
5. REVIEW | Sala Montale Exclusive Lounge and Sala Gae Aulentin Premium Lounge at Milan Malpensa Airport, extra Schengen.
6. REVIEW | All Nippon Airways (ANA), Business Class, Boeing 787-9 Dreamliner to Tokyo.
7. REVIEW | Toei Animation Museum in Nerima, Tokyo.
8. JAPAN | Tokyo Station, its Character Street and Pokémon Store.
9. REVIEW | Onyado Nono Asakusa Hotel in Tokyo.
10. TOKYO | Asakusa ft. Sensō-ji Temple.
11. JAPAN | The Odoriko train from Tokyo to Ito on Izu Peninsula.
12. PHOTOS & REVIEW | The Izu Teddy Bear Museum in Izu-Kōgen.
13. JAPAN | A visit to Ito on Izu Peninsula in Shizuoka Prefecture.
14. REVIEW | Japan’s Saphir Odoriko in Premium Green Car from Ito on Izu Peninsula to Tokyo Station.
15. GAY TOKYO | 24 Kaikan in Asakusa (+ Ueno and Shinjuku).
16. TOKYO | Sawara in Chiba Prefecture, ‘Little Edo’ beyond Narita.
17. TOKYO | Omotesandō in Shibuya – AEON Shinonome –  Uniqlo – Muji.
18. PHOTOS | The Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum in Koganei Park.
19. JAPAN | Solo in Tokyo.
20. REVIEW | Brussels Airport The View lounge.
21. REVIEW | Qatar Airways Business Class Brussels to Doha.
22. REVIEW | Qatar Airways Al Mourjan The Garden Business lounge.
23. REVIEW | Qatar Airways Q-Suite Business Class Doha to Tokyo.
24. REVIEW | Pullman Tokyo Tamachi.
25. REVIEW | The Railway Museum, Ōmiya, Saitama City, Saitama Prefecture.
26. TOKYO | Imperial Palace East Gardens – Akihabara – Tamiya flagship store – Skytree.
27. JAPAN | Kanazawa Castle – Kenrokuen Garden – Higashi Chaya District.
28. REVIEW | Daiwa Roynet Hotel Kanazawa Eki Nishiguchi.
29. JAPAN | Road trip to Hida no Sato, Takayama and Shirakawa-go from Kanazawa.
30. OSAKA | Namba Parks – Dōtonbori – Glico Man – Shinsaibashi.
31. REVIEW | Swissôtel Nankai Osaka.
32. Experiencing Expo 2025 Osaka Kansai Japan.
33. KANSAI | Osaka Castle ft. Toyotomi Stone Wall Museum.
34. OSAKA | EGDE store – Umeda Sky Building – Grand Front – Namba Parks – Daiso – Luscious.
35. REVIEW | Mazda Museum in Hiroshima.
36. REVIEW | Candeo Hotels Hiroshima Hatchobori.
37. JAPAN | The Hiroshima Peace Memorial, the Peace Memorial Park and the Peace Memorial Museum.
38. JAPAN | Himeji Castle.
39. JAPAN | Itsukushima Shrine on Itsukushima aka Miyajima.
40. REVIEW | Miyajima Seaside Hotel.
41. REVIEW | Spending a night in a couples’ or love hotel: ホテルCOO玖 男塾ホテルグループ in Okayama.
42. KYOTO | Nishi Hongan-ji Temple.
43. KYOTO | Nijō Castle.
44. KYOTO | Kamo River – Takase River – Pontochō.
45. REVIEW | Mercure Kyoto Station.
46. REVIEW | Kyoto Railway Museum.
47. JAPAN | Kyoto Station.
48. REVIEW | Nintendo Museum in Uji, Kyoto Prefecture.