BANGKOK | Mango Tree Surawong – Chamchuri Square – CU Centenary Park – Soi Chulalongkon – History of Massage(s) – Silom Soi 4 – Patpong Night Market

The Philippines in 1996-1997, China in 2000, Vietnam in 2009, Japan in 2013 and 2025, South Korea in 2014 and 2024, Taipei and Taiwan in 2017 (the starting point of Trip By Trip), Singapore in 2018, Hong Kong and Macau in 2023. I like travelling to East Asia. Yet I never visited Thailand, for many westerners the starting point of Asia travels. Unexpectedly, my request for time off in January 2026 was granted, so I decided to not stay home. I booked flights to Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia for a ten-day gay solo trip. 

After landing at Suvarnabhumi Airport on a Friday and passing immigration, I travelled to The Quarter Silom by UHG using trains and on foot. My room wasn’t ready, so I explored the Silom (Si Lom) area and had my first Thai lunch in Bangkok at Mango Tree. “Mango Tree, an authentic Thai restaurant, began in a house from the reign of King Rama V. It’s situated within a compound with two mango trees in the heart of Silom”, the website says.

Rest at the hotel

I decided to rest art the hotel, as I had booked a massage later that evening. 

Chamchuri Square

Bangkok is not the most walkable city, but you can do it. So I decided to walk to my massage appointments. On the way I bumped into a (night) market at Chamchuri Square. In front of Chamchuri Square. 

Chamchuri Square is a high-rise mixed-use complex, developed on land owned by Chulalongkorn University. The development comprises a 40-storey office tower, a 23-storey residential tower, and a multi-storey podium containing a shopping centre that links the two buildings. Construction began in 1994, stalled during the Asian financial crisis, and was eventually completed in 2008, with the complex opening in July of that year.

The project was originally launched as CU Hi-tech Square, with Siam Techno City as developer and Thai Shimizu as the main contractor. The initial concept envisioned a technology-focused office complex with a large convention centre and direct access to the planned MRT metro line. 

Work commenced in 1994 and was scheduled for completion by 1997, but weak pre-sales led to construction being halted in 1996 when the towers had reached only thirteen floors. The subsequent 1997 financial crisis left the site unfinished for nearly a decade.

In 2002, Chulalongkorn University decided to revive the project, funding the redevelopment largely from its own resources after private investment failed to materialise. Reconstruction began in 2004 and continued in phases, with Powerline Engineering appointed as the main contractor in 2006. The scheme was redesigned, the residential tower was reduced in height, and the original convention centre concept was replaced with an ‘edutainment’ retail and cultural programme. The project was renamed Chamchuri Square and completed in early 2008.

The completed complex consists of the Chamchuri Office Tower, a 173-metre, 40-storey Class A office building with parking in the lower floors; the Residence Tower, a 23-storey luxury apartment block with long-term leasehold units; and the four-storey podium retail centre. The shopping mall contains bookshops, restaurants, education-related services and exhibition spaces, including a branch of the Chulalongkorn University Book Center and an exhibition centre operated by the National Science Museum, and is also used for events.

Chamchuri Square occupies approximately 21 rai (1 rai is 1.6000 square meters) of university land at the Sam Yan intersection on Phaya Thai Road and Rama IV Road, adjacent to the Thai Red Cross Society and opposite Wat Hua Lamphong. It is directly connected to Sam Yan Station on the MRT, making it one of the first developments in Bangkok with an internal metro connection.

At 173 metres tall, the office tower ranked among Thailand’s tallest buildings in the late 2000s and was one of the largest office completions in the country since before the 1997 financial crisis.

Chulalongkorn University Centenary Park

Chulalongkorn University Centenary Park or CU Centenary Park is a public urban park on the campus of Chulalongkorn University in central Bangkok. 

Covering approximately 28 rai (4.5 hectares), the park opened in 2017 to commemorate the centenary of the university’s founding. It is located within a dense commercial and retail district, providing a rare large green space in the city centre.

The park was designed by the Thai landscape architecture firm Landprocess as a multifunctional ‘urban forest’ and public space, combining recreational, ecological and educational functions. 

A key feature of the design is its role as a rainwater detention and flood-mitigation system, inspired in part by the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej’s (Rama IX) ‘monkey cheeks’ water management concept. The landscape incorporates a constructed wetland, rain gardens, retention ponds and an underground drainage system to collect and store stormwater during heavy rainfall.

In addition to its environmental role, the park is intended as a social and cultural venue. Facilities include open lawns, walking paths, shaded seating areas and a central hall used for exhibitions and events. The site also hosts an interactive virtual museum and educational displays on historical and social topics, with rotating exhibitions and public activities aligned with the university’s broader goal of promoting an inclusive and knowledge-based society.

CU Centenary Park has become an important public amenity for both the university community and the wider public, offering leisure space, cultural programming and a model for climate-resilient urban landscape design in Bangkok.

Soi Chulalongkorn (Chula Soi)

Soi Chulalongkorn is not a single street but a numbered network of lanes (Chula Soi 1–50+) running through the campus and property holdings of Chulalongkorn University in central Bangkok. The sois form an internal urban grid connecting Phaya Thai Road, Rama IV Road and the Sam Yan district, and they have evolved into a mixed academic, residential and commercial quarter within the Pathum Wan district.

The sois run through the heart of Chulalongkorn University, Thailand’s oldest and most prestigious university. Along the lanes are faculty buildings, research institutes, student residences, sports facilities and administrative offices. The university is also one of Bangkok’s largest landowners, and many plots along the sois are leased for private development, resulting in a hybrid campus–city environment.

One of the most prominent landmarks is Chulalongkorn University Stadium, located on Chula Soi 9. The 20,000-seat stadium is used for football and university sporting events and is home to the university’s football club, Chamchuri United FC. It was renovated in 2005 and became the first stadium in Thailand to use artificial turf.

Several large-scale commercial projects occupy university land along or adjacent to the Chula sois:

  • Chamchuri Square.
  • Samyan Mitrtown, Block 28 and other recent developments (not all formally within the sois but directly connected) form part of the university’s long-term property redevelopment strategy to transform the district into a commercial and lifestyle hub.

High-rise condominiums such as Park Origin Chula–Samyan reflect the area’s growing appeal to students and young professionals, with close proximity to Siam, Silom and Sathon business districts.

The Chula sois also include major public amenities, most notably Chulalongkorn University Centenary Park, opened in 2017 to mark the university’s centenary. The park serves both as an urban green space and a flood-mitigation landscape, incorporating wetlands, rain gardens and retention ponds.

The area has increasingly been positioned as a model ‘smart city’ district, with co-working spaces, art projects, and community facilities developed in partnership with the university’s Property Management Office. Open-air street art installations and creative spaces have been introduced across the Sam Yan and Suan Luang zones as part of placemaking initiatives.

The Chula–Bantadthong–Sam Yan area, including several Chula sois, has emerged as one of Bangkok’s most fashionable street-food and dining districts. 

University-led redevelopment has promoted cleaner, organised food streets and encouraged both traditional vendors and trendy restaurants, attracting students, young residents and tourists. The area is often compared in popularity to Siam Square and is marketed as a curated street-food hub with improved infrastructure and hygiene standards.

The Chula sois are well integrated into Bangkok’s public transport system. Sam Yan MRT station provides underground access to the campus and adjacent developments, while major arterial roads—Phaya Thai Road and Rama IV Road—border the district. The sois themselves function as internal connectors, pedestrian routes and service streets within the university’s extensive landholding.

Historically, the Chulalongkorn University estate was a low-rise academic enclave, but from the late twentieth century onwards it became one of Bangkok’s most ambitious university-led urban redevelopment zones. Long-term leaseholds, mixed-use megaprojects and lifestyle infrastructure have transformed the sois into a dense urban quarter where academic institutions, commercial towers, retail complexes, housing and cultural venues coexist.

History of Massage(s)

History of Massages (they sometimes also write History of Massage in singular) is a contemporary massage and wellness concept, which combines body treatments with narrative design, branding, and immersive storytelling. Rather than functioning solely as a conventional spa, it positions itself as an experiential venue that frames massage as a cultural and sensory journey through time, technique, and ritual.

The project emerged in the context of Bangkok’s long-standing association with massage culture, where traditional Thai massage (nuad Thai) has been practised for centuries and institutionalised through temples and training schools such as Wat Pho. The city is widely regarded as a global centre for massage and bodywork, with a spectrum ranging from therapeutic clinics to luxury spas and entertainment-oriented establishments.

History of Massages distinguishes itself through a narrative-driven concept. Its branding emphasises the evolution of massage practices, often presenting treatments as themed ‘chapters’ or experiences rather than standard spa menus. The aesthetic combines contemporary interior design, digital storytelling, and curated sensory environments, reflecting a broader trend in Bangkok’s wellness sector towards experiential hospitality and lifestyle concepts.

The venue is promoted as an immersive space where visitors are encouraged to engage not only with physical treatments but also with the cultural and historical narratives associated with massage. This approach aligns with Bangkok’s broader creative economy, where retail, hospitality, and wellness increasingly intersect with design, art, and experiential marketing.

According to its promotional material, History of Massages offers a range of massage and spa treatments, including aromatherapy, body massage, and relaxation therapies. The emphasis is placed on atmosphere and curated sensory experiences, with carefully designed interiors, lighting, and scents forming part of the overall concept.

The brand’s social media presence and promotional content highlight a lifestyle-oriented positioning, targeting both local residents and international visitors seeking a curated, design-led wellness experience rather than a traditional massage parlour.

Bangkok has long been synonymous with massage culture, which ranges from traditional therapeutic practices to commercialised forms linked to tourism and nightlife. Traditional Thai massage has roots in Indian and Buddhist medical traditions and has been taught in temple schools and medical institutions for centuries.

In this context, History of Massages represents a contemporary reinterpretation of massage as a branded cultural experience. It reflects a broader shift in Bangkok’s wellness industry towards concept-driven venues that combine design, storytelling, and curated experiences with established bodywork techniques.

History of Massage in practice

I was inspired by Gayifiers to book a session at History of Massage. I contacted them on Line, Thailand’s preferred messaging app. I wanted a 120-minute full body scrub plus massage. I never had a body scrub before. 

So I asked who was available and the admin sent me a bunch of photos. They asked me if I wanted a handsome therapist. Implied is: do I go for looks, or talent? I went for looks and I booked Vice. Thai people have all nicknames, given by their parents. I’m pretty in that line of work, an extra nickname us chosen. 

I was welcomed at History of Massage, located at Stadium One on the first (second US style) floor. I was invited to take a seat, take of my shoes and socks and I got slippers. I also received a wet towell and something to drink. 

Vice fetched me and guided me to the massage room. He asked me to shower. When he returned, the session proper started. First a scrub, then a shower, then an  oil massage. 

It was very relaxing.  Then came the conversation. What did I want extra? And how much was I willing to tip? We came to an agreement and, I had some very nice icing on the cake. Vice was and is a very pleasant and enjoyable therapist. 

After this dessert we showered. I was offered some hot tea while I dressed. Then we parted ways. 

Silom Soi 4

Silom Soi 4, or Soi Silom 4, or Silom 4 Alley, is a main gay street in Bangkok. It’s a short, dead-end side street off Silom Road, and one of the city’s most prominent centres of gay nightlife. Located in the Silom business district, close to Sala Daeng BTS station and Silom MRT station, the soi forms part of a compact cluster of gay and queer venues that has developed since the late twentieth century.

The street is lined with bars and small venues on both sides, many with outdoor seating arranged directly opposite each other. This layout encourages street-level socialising and people-watching, and the soi is widely regarded as a meeting point for pre-drinks and informal social gatherings before visitors move on to the larger dance clubs on nearby Silom Soi 2 later in the evening. Peak activity typically occurs between around 21:00 and midnight.

Silom Soi 4 hosts a dense concentration of gay bars, cafés and casual entertainment venues, with some of the most established names including The Balcony Pub & Bar and The Stranger Bar. Many venues offer drag performances, music, and casual dining alongside drinks, and most operate with open façades and terrace-style seating that spill onto the pavement. Entry to bars is generally free, with drinks priced competitively compared to Bangkok’s mainstream nightlife districts.

The street’s atmosphere is typically informal and mixed, attracting a combination of local residents, expatriates, international tourists and nightlife workers. While the area is often marketed as a social and entertainment hub, it also reflects the broader dynamics of Bangkok’s nightlife economy, including informal sex work and a visible commercialised LGBTQIA+ scene.

Silom Soi 4 developed as part of Bangkok’s emerging gay district during the late twentieth century, when Silom Road transitioned from a primarily financial and commercial corridor into a mixed-use area with offices, hotels and nightlife. 

Together with Silom Soi 2 and adjacent streets, it forms one of Southeast Asia’s most recognisable LGBTQIA+ nightlife clusters, comparable in function, though not in scale, to gay districts in cities such as Tokyo, Taipei or Hong Kong.

The district’s proximity to major transport infrastructure and hotels has made it a key nightlife destination for international visitors, while remaining integrated into the daily life of the surrounding business district. The coexistence of corporate offices, retail centres and nightlife venues exemplifies Bangkok’s layered urban geography, where commercial, residential and entertainment functions intersect within a compact urban fabric.

Silom Soi 4 is easily accessible via public transport. Sala Daeng station on the BTS Silom Line and Silom station on the MRT Blue Line are both within short walking distance, and the area is also served by taxis and ride-hailing services. The soi connects directly to Silom Road, one of Bangkok’s principal east–west arterial routes.

So?

I walked all of Silom Soi 4. It was so crowded, I decided to go to bed. Saturday would be a big day. Also, I was very satisfied of my massage and didn’t need anything on top of that. But on my way to the hotel I bumped into Patpong Night Market.

Patpong Night Market

Patpong Night Market is a well-known street market and nightlife zone in the Patpong area. It occupies Patpong Soi 1 and Soi 2, two narrow lanes running parallel to Silom Road, and operates primarily in the evening, typically from around 18:00 until late at night. The market is closely associated with Bangkok’s nightlife and red-light district, combining street vending with bars, clubs and adult entertainment venues.

Patpong emerged in the mid-twentieth century as a commercial area developed by the Patpongpanich family, who leased land to businesses and later to bars and entertainment venues. During the Vietnam War era, the district became popular with foreign servicemen and expatriates, and by the 1970s and 1980s it had developed into one of Bangkok’s best-known nightlife areas.

The night market itself developed later, as street vendors began setting up stalls along the sois in the evening. Over time it became a semi-formalised market catering primarily to tourists, selling clothing, accessories, souvenirs, electronics, counterfeit goods, and novelty items alongside food and drinks.

The night market consists of a dense grid of temporary stalls set up along the two Patpong lanes. Vendors sell a wide range of goods, including T-shirts, bags, watches, souvenirs, and Thai handicrafts, as well as street food and drinks. Bargaining is common, and prices are generally higher than in more local markets, reflecting the area’s strong tourist orientation.

The market operates alongside fixed nightlife venues, including go-go bars, live music bars, and small clubs. This juxtaposition of family-friendly street shopping and adult entertainment is a distinctive feature of Patpong, contributing to its reputation as one of Bangkok’s most idiosyncratic urban spaces.

Patpong is internationally known for its nightlife, particularly its go-go bars and adult entertainment shows, which have made it a long-standing stop on Bangkok’s tourist circuit. While the area has a reputation for scams and tourist-targeted pricing, it remains a popular destination for visitors seeking a combination of shopping, street food, and nightlife in a compact and highly accessible location.

In recent years, the district has faced competition from newer nightlife and shopping areas, such as Asiatique, Ratchada Train Night Market, and Silom Soi 4 and Soi 2’s LGBTQIA+ venues. Nevertheless, Patpong Night Market continues to function as a symbolic landmark of Bangkok’s late-twentieth-century tourism economy.

Gay adventures of the homosexual kind

Bangkok & Kuala Lumpur 2026

  1. PREVIEW | Malaysia(n) Grand Prix 2026 Sepang Circuit behind the scenes tour.
  2. THAILAND + MALAYSIA | Questions for a first time in Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur.
  3. REVIEW | The View lounge, Brussels Airport, B-Gates, extra-Schengen.
  4. REVIEW | Hainan Airlines: Brussels to Chongqing – Boeing 787-9 – economy.
  5. CHINA | Layover at the ambitious Chongqing Jiangbei International Airport and a short visit to Plaza Premium Lounge at H-Gates.
  6. REVIEW | Hainan Airlines Chongqing to Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Airport – Boeing 737 – economy.

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