August 2025. We’re travelling to the Baltic States: Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania, and more specifically their respective capitals Tallinn, Riga and Vilnius. Are they interconnected by rail? Yes, but not in the most straightforward or userfriendly way possible. The Rail Baltica project should remedy this. Unsurprisingly though, this megaproject faces political and budgetary hurdles. It will most likely not be ready by 2030. But that doesn’t stop us. What to expect from the Baltics? Is it affected by overtourism?
In August 2025 we set out on a week-long journey through the Baltic capitals — Tallinn, Riga and Vilnius — mixing culture, history and a touch of comfort along the way. Thanks to Brussels Airlines miles, we travelled in business class and enjoyed the luxury of airport lounges: The Loft by Brussels Airlines and Lexus at Brussels Airport and, after a missed connection in Munich, Lufthansa’s Business Lounges.
Tallinn
Our adventure began in Tallinn, where Soviet monumentalism met maritime heritage and medieval charm. We stayed at the Swissôtel. We first stopped at the Linnahall, a vast relic of the 1980 Moscow Olympics, before immersing ourselves in Estonia’s seafaring past at the Lennusadam Seaplane Harbour.
The restored submarine Lembit and dramatic exhibition design made a strong impression. In the Old Town, the Estonian History Museum at the Great Guild Hall offered insights into Hanseatic trade, while the Vabamu Museum of Occupations and Freedom confronted the harsh realities of Soviet and Nazi rule. There, we discovered the LGBT audio tour, which shed light on queer life under Soviet oppression and Estonia’s progress since independence.
Meals were memorable too: dumplings and even bear meatballs at Troika for lunch, followed by dinner at Rataskaevu 16.
Riga
From there we travelled south to Riga, checking into the Pullman and unwinding with a swim before dinner at Senās Tradīcijas.
Our cultural exploration started at Riga Castle, the seat of Latvia’s president and home to the National Museum of History, its long and troubled past vividly reflected in architecture scarred by fire and war. W
e then turned to beauty and design, discovering why Riga is considered the world capital of Jugendstil or Art Nouveau. At the Riga Art Nouveau Centre and the Rozentāls and Blaumanis Museum, we learned how Jugendstil transformed the cityscape during its economic boom in the early 20th century.
We spent time at the Latvian Railway History Museum, the Riga Ghetto, and the Latvian Academy of Sciences. We dined art 3 Pavāru Restorāns aka 3 Chefs Restaurant.
On day two, we visited the Museum of the Barricades of 1991 and Museum of the Occupation of Latvia.
Vilnius
The final leg took us to Vilnius, where we based ourselves at the Radisson Collection Astorija Hotel Vilnius.
On day 1, we focussed on the Railway Museum at Vilnius Central Railway Station and the Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania, with Gediminas’ Tower.
Dinner at Etno Dvaras offered a taste of hearty Lithuanian cuisine, and a journey through the centuries.
On day 2, the Museum of Occupations and Freedom Fights, housed in the former KGB headquarters, provided a stark reminder of Lithuania’s suffering under Soviet and Nazi repression, complete with prison cells and interrogation rooms.
Now it’s time to discuss what we noticed.
English proficiency
The Baltic States are among the most English-friendly countries in Europe, especially when compared with their size and location.
Estonia stands out as the leader. It consistently ranks in the global top tier for English proficiency, often in the world’s top ten according to the EF English Proficiency Index.
The country’s digital culture and early embrace of technology have reinforced English as the natural second language, particularly among the younger generations. While Russian is still widely understood due to the Soviet past, English dominates in business, education and everyday interactions among people under 40.
Latvia follows closely, usually placed in the ‘high proficiency’ category worldwide. In Riga and other large towns, English is the default language in hotels, restaurants and shops, and young Latvians generally speak it with confidence.
Among older generations Russian is still more common, but the trend has shifted firmly towards English, especially in professional and tourism contexts.
Lithuania mirrors this pattern. English is taught widely in schools, and in cities such as Vilnius and Kaunas, younger people use it fluently. Like Latvia, it ranks in the ‘high proficiency’ group internationally. R
ussian remains more familiar to older Lithuanians, but English has become the everyday international language of the younger population.
Taken together, the Baltics perform remarkably well — often outscoring larger European Union countries such as France, Italy or Spain in English skills.
For travellers, this means that Tallinn, Riga and Vilnius are very easy to navigate in English. Outside the capitals and larger towns, English may be less widespread, but younger people are still likely to speak it.
No American Express
One thing that quickly stood out during our trip was how rarely American Express was accepted, even in international chain hotels. While Visa and Mastercard went through everywhere without issue, AmEx terminals were almost non-existent.
The reason is largely economic. American Express charges higher transaction fees to merchants than Visa or Mastercard, and in smaller markets like the Baltics — where margins are already slim — businesses are reluctant to absorb that extra cost.
Unlike in the United States, where AmEx has a strong network and customer base, in Europe it is still considered a niche card. In countries such as Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania, where contactless payments are widespread and competition between card providers is tight, Amex simply hasn’t achieved the same level of acceptance.
For travellers this means it’s best to carry a Visa or Mastercard as your primary payment option. AmEx might work in a handful of high-end places, but you can’t rely on it for day-to-day expenses.
In practice, the Baltics are almost cashless societies — cards and mobile payments are accepted everywhere — but American Express just isn’t part of that ecosystem.
Tipping or no tipping?
Tipping culture in the Baltic States is generally more restrained than in, say, the United States, but it does exist in certain contexts. In restaurants, cafés, and bars, tipping is appreciated but not obligatory.
A common guideline is to leave around 5–10% of the bill if service is good. Many locals simply round up the total to the nearest euro or leave small change rather than calculating a precise percentage. In more tourist-oriented establishments, especially in Tallinn, Riga, and Vilnius, a slightly higher tip might be expected, but it is never enforced.
For other services, such as taxis or hairdressers, rounding up to the nearest euro is standard practice. Hotel staff, like porters or housekeeping, may also receive small tips, though it is entirely discretionary.
Overall, tipping in the Baltics is more about acknowledging good service than fulfilling an obligation. It’s appreciated as a polite gesture but rarely forms a significant part of a worker’s income, unlike in North America. Visitors should feel comfortable tipping modestly, but there is no pressure to overdo it.
I fear we got this one wrong a few times.
A lack of colour and tracksuits
Tis one is perhaps controversial, but we didn’t really see (many) people of colour. We barely saw people of Sub-Saharan, North African, Middle Eastern, Central Asian or Eastern Asian decent.
The Uzbek restaurant Bukhara was seemingly run by people from Uzbekistan. But the dominant colour is white.
On the diversity note, the prevalence of sweatpants, trackies, tracksuits and Adidas is quite low. Much lower than Liverpool in the United Kingdom, Palermo in Sicily or Podgorica in Montenegro, to give three examples of places where it’s common to wear athleisurewear in non-sporting contexts.
Clean, well-maintained and safe
In Tallinn, in Riga, as well as in Vilnius, we felt safe. The cities are clean and well-maintained. Sure, there are graffiti, but they’re far from omnipresent.
The Baltics and their common, big neighbour
The relationship between the Baltic States and Russia is deeply shaped by history, geography, and security concerns. All three countries were part of the Russian Empire and later the Soviet Union until regaining independence in 1991.
The Soviet period left a lasting legacy, including political tension, demographic changes, and a strong wariness of Russian influence. Consequently, the Baltics view Russia’s current policies with suspicion, especially given Moscow’s assertive stance in Ukraine and elsewhere.
In the present day, Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania maintain a cautious and often adversarial stance toward Russia. The countries are NATO and EU members, relying heavily on these alliances for security and political support. Russian military activity near their borders is a constant concern, and hybrid threats such as disinformation campaigns and cyberattacks are taken very seriously.
Support for Ukraine in the Baltic states is strong and broadly popular among the public. Governments have provided military aid, humanitarian assistance, and political backing for Ukraine in international forums.
Public sentiment reflects a combination of historical memory, fear of Russian aggression, and solidarity with a fellow nation defending its sovereignty. Rallies, volunteer efforts, and fund-raising for Ukraine are common, and the Baltic states frequently call for stricter EU and NATO measures against Russia. Ukrainian flags are flown everywhere.
In short, the Baltic-Russian relationship is tense, rooted in historical experience and contemporary security concerns, while support for Ukraine is both official and deeply felt among citizens.
So?
We both really enjoyed this Baltic Trip. Despite unfamiliar languages, the countries are accessible and their capitals easy to navigate. It’s not a ‘super cheap’ destination anymore, but it’s cheaper than Western Europe.
Oh, and overtourism is not yet an issue. But tell that to others.
Baltic States 2025
- REVIEW | The Loft by Brussels Airlines and Lexus business lounge at Brussels Airport A-Gates.
- REVIEW | Brussels Airlines Business Class Brussels to Munich.
- REVIEW | Lufthansa Business Lounge Schengen and Lufthansa Senator Business Lounge Satellite Schengen at Munich Airport Terminal 2.
- REVIEW | Air Baltic Business Class Munich to Tallinn.
- REVIEW | Swissotel Tallinn.
- TALLINN | Lennusadam Seaplane Harbour Estonian Maritime Museum.
- TALLINN | Estonian History Museum at the Great Guild Hall.
- TALLINN | LGBT tour at Vabamu Museum of Occupations and Freedom.
- RAIL BALTICA | Baltic operators launch joint tender for regional trains.
- ESTONIA | How to spend a day in Tallinn.
- REVIEW | Pullman Riga Old Town.
- LATVIA | Riga Castle.
- LATVIA | Jugendstil in Riga ft Riga Art Nouveau Centre and Janis Rozentāls and Rūdolfs Blaumanis Museum.
- RIGA | National Library of Latvia and the Latvian Railway History Museum.
- RIGA | Baltā Kaza – Riga Ghetto – Latvian Academy of Sciences.
- REVIEW | 3 Pavāru Restorāns / 3 Chefs Restaurant in Riga.
- RIGA | Museum of the Barricades of 1991 and Museum of the Occupation of Latvia.
- LATVIA | Museum of the History of Riga and Navigation.
- LATVIA | 1.5 days in Riga.
- RAIL BALTICA | Tallinn – Valga / Valka – Riga – Vilnius by train.
- REVIEW | Radisson Collection Astorija Hotel Vilnius.
- LITHUANIA | Railway Museum and Rail Park in Vilnius.
- VILNIUS | Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania and Gediminas’ Tower.
- REVIEW | Restaurant Ertlio Namas in Vilnius.
- VILNIUS | Museum of Occupations and Freedom Fights.
- LITHUANIA | Two days in Vilnius.
- REVIEW | Narbutas Business Lounge at Vilnius Airport.
- REVIEW | Brussels Airlines operated by Air Baltic Business Class Vilnius to Brussels.