HOLLAND | A walk in Rotterdam

For years, I have been celebrating my birthday abroad, unless it was impossible due to COVID-19 restrictions. In June 2023, Steve and I went to Rotterdam in the Netherlands in a deal combining a dinner at Restaurant Fred and an overnight stay at Marriott Rotterdam including a champagne breakfast.

We arrived at Rotterdam Central Station just before 11 AM so we could explore the city before dinner. We dropped our bags at the Marriott which is in front of the 2014 (re)opened railway station.

Sweatpants

In front of this modern transport hub is now the statue ‘Moments Contained‘. A bronze black woman in sweatpants and Nike trainers stands there. This art by Thomas J Price from the United Kingdom is controversial. Some think it’s ridiculous to portray someone who hasn’t done anything special. Others like it because the she hasn’t done anything special.

“‘Moments Contained’ reconfigures the same fictional character of Price’s nine-foot sculpture ‘Reaching Out‘ in a new scale and pose, highlighting further the subtle shifts in presentation and perception that resonate throughout the artist’s practice. Price purposefully chooses not to portray specific people but instead presents imaginary, constructed characters. His works focus our attention on the systemic marginalization inherent to public monuments, through the artist’s hybrid approach of traditional sculpting and intuitive digital technology”, the artist’s website says.

“Combining details and materials referencing classical ancient Greek, Roman, and Egyptian sculptures with subtleties observed from daily life, Thomas J Price explores societal expectations and assumptions, whilst considering the space created between the viewer and the work itself.”

‘Moments Contained’ by Thomas J Price at Rotterdam Central Station.

Kabouter Buttplug

Starting at the Cool, we followed the water of Mauritsweg, Eendrachtplein and Eendrachtweg towards the Maas or Meuse river. On the way we envoutered Kabouter Buttplug.

Kabouter Buttplug, also known as Santa Claus Plug or Gnome Buttplug was created by artist Paul McCarthy and installed temporarily in 2001 as part of the ‘Sonsbeek 9‘ exhibition. The sculpture depicts a gnome-like figure bent over with its posterior raised, and it features a large, cone-shaped object resembling a butt plug.

The artwork gained significant attention and sparked a debate about public art and its appropriateness. Many people found the sculpture vulgar and offensive, while others argued for artistic freedom and the importance of provoking thought and discussion. Despite the controversy, the sculpture became a symbol of Rotterdam’s progressive and avant-garde art scene.

Erasmusbrug

We continued towards the Erasmusbrug. The Erasmus Bridge, is a cable-stayed bridge that spans the Nieuwe Maas River, connecting the northern and southern parts of the city. The bridge was named after the renowned Dutch philosopher Desiderius Erasmus, who was born in Rotterdam.

Designed by Ben van Berkel, the Erasmusbrug was completed in 1996 and has since become an iconic symbol of Rotterdam’s modern architecture. The bridge features a striking asymmetrical design with a 139-meter-high (456 feet) pylon that supports the cable-stayed portion of the structure. The pylon is tilted at an angle, giving the bridge a dynamic and distinctive appearance.

With a total length of 802 meters (2,631 feet), the Erasmusbrug accommodates both road and pedestrian traffic. It carries a four-lane roadway for cars and other vehicles, as well as dedicated lanes for cyclists and pedestrians. The bridge’s design allows for large ships to pass beneath it, maintaining the vital waterway connection in the busy port of Rotterdam.

The Erasmusbrug has become an iconic symbol of Rotterdam’s modern and innovative character. It is often featured in photographs and postcards representing the city’s skyline, and it serves as a popular gathering spot for locals and tourists alike. The bridge’s sleek design and its strategic location make it a significant architectural and engineering achievement in Rotterdam.

Flag parade

Nearby is the Vlaggenparade or Flag Parade.

“The flag parade organised by the Stichting Vlaggenparade Rotterdam is an outdoor museum that exhibits 230 flags side by side on the Boompjesboulevard along the Nieuwe Maas, between the ‘De Boeg‘ monument and the foot of the Erasmus Bridge, one of the busiest and most scenic locations in Rotterdam”, Rotterdam.info says.

“There are 193 national flags to welcome the 193 nationalities who live in or are visiting the city or harbour, just as they are represented in the United Nations. There is a flag for everyone who lives in, works in or visits Rotterdam. The remaining flagpoles are reserved for City of Rotterdam flags. The flag parade is made possible with financial support of the Rotterdam city council, contributions from the founding members, sponsors and representatives from a charity foundation.”

“The flags are illuminated in the evening and at night, which is an amazing sight and completely unique in the world. Theme flags are flown during festivals and other regional, national or international events.”

Unfortunately there was barely wind so the flags were difficult to photograph. It’s rare to see flags of non-neighbouring countries. So perhaps it is fortunate there was no wind. I could spend hours there.

The White House

The Witte Huis or White House is a building from 1898 in the Art Nouveau style. The building is 43 m (141 ft) tall, with 10 floors. It was also the first high-rise office building in Europe. The building is listed as a Rijksmonument.

The architect Willem Molenbroek designed the 10-storey building, at the time an unprecedented height in Europe. It was also one of the few buildings in central Rotterdam to survive the German bombing campaigns of World War II.

Kubuswoningen

A next landmark are the Kubuswoningen. The Cube Houses were designed by architect Piet Blom, these unique residential buildings were constructed in the 1970s as part of an urban housing development called the Overblaak Development.

The design concept behind the Kubuswoningen is based on Blom’s idea of creating a ‘forest’ within a city. The houses resemble cubes tilted at a 45-degree angle, resting on a hexagonal pillar. Each cube represents a tree, and the entire complex is meant to resemble a dense urban forest.

The Cube Houses consist of a total of 38 residential units, with each cube serving as a separate home. Despite their unconventional shape, the interiors of the houses are well-utilized and provide functional living spaces. The ground floor of each cube serves as a living area, while the upper levels contain bedrooms, bathrooms, and other amenities.

One of the Cube Houses in the complex has been converted into a museum called the Kijk-Kubus (‘Show Cube’). Visitors can explore this museum to experience the unique interior layout and get a sense of what it’s like to live in these distinctive homes.

The Kubuswoningen have become an iconic symbol of Rotterdam’s architectural innovation and have attracted visitors from around the world. They are located near the Blaak Metro Station and are easily recognizable due to their striking design and vibrant yellow color.

Markthal

A modern icon is the Markthal. The Market Hall is a striking architectural landmark and a bustling food market. It was opened to the public in October 2014 and has since become a popular destination for locals and tourists alike.

Designed by architectural firm MVRDV, the Markthal is a horseshoe-shaped building with a unique combination of residential and commercial spaces. The horseshoe shape forms a massive arch, which is entirely covered with a vibrant, colorful artwork known as the ‘Horn of Plenty‘. This artwork depicts an assortment of fruits, vegetables, flowers, and insects, creating a visually stunning ceiling that stretches across the entire interior of the building.

Inside the Markthal, you’ll find a wide variety of food stalls, shops, and restaurants. The market offers an array of fresh produce, meats, fish, cheeses, spices, and other culinary delights from both local and international vendors. It’s a great place to explore and indulge in different cuisines, shop for fresh ingredients, or simply enjoy a meal in one of the many eateries available.

In addition to its food market, the Markthal also houses residential units and office spaces. The apartments are located above the market stalls and provide residents with a unique living experience, overlooking the vibrant market below.

The Markthal has become an iconic symbol of Rotterdam’s modern architecture and vibrant culinary scene. Its central location near the Blaak area, close to other notable landmarks such as the Cube Houses and the Erasmusbrug, makes it easily accessible and a must-visit destination for visitors to the city.

Koopgoot

Another landmark is the Koopgoot, Beurstraverse or in English Shopping Gutter. Which is not a flattering name.

The Koopgoot is an underground shopping passage. The term coined by the locals due to its sunken location below street level.

The Koopgoot was developed in the late 1990s as a means to improve pedestrian access and connect different shopping areas in the city center. It runs underneath the Coolsingel and Beursplein, two major streets in Rotterdam, and serves as a convenient pathway for shoppers to navigate between popular shopping districts such as Lijnbaan, Hoogstraat, and Meent.

The passage features a wide range of retail stores, boutiques, restaurants, and cafes, offering a diverse shopping experience. It has become a vibrant shopping hub, particularly for fashion and lifestyle products, attracting both locals and tourists.

City Hall

Our last landmark of the day was Rotterdam City Hall.

The current Rotterdam City Hall was completed in 1920 and is a fine example of early 20th-century Dutch architectural style, influenced by the Art Nouveau and Neo-Renaissance movements.

The building features an impressive facade adorned with intricate details, including sculptures, reliefs, and ornate decorations. Its prominent tower, reaching a height of approximately 70 meters (230 feet), is a notable landmark in the Rotterdam skyline. The tower houses a carillon, a musical instrument consisting of a set of bells played with a keyboard, which chimes throughout the day.