During a lovely dinner in February 2023, Steve, Philippe and I decided to visit Athens during the – Catholic – Easter Holiday. As I was lucky to have the full Easter weekend – Saturday, Sunday and Monday – off, I booked flights and a room. Steve and Philippe arrived in the capital of Greece two days earlier. It wasn’t Orthodox Easter, so for the Athenians, it was a normal, low-season, weekend.

April 2023 marked my third visit to Athens. The first time was in April 1999 as a 17-year-old school boy. Steve was my Latin teacher then. The second time was in September 2017, during our Balkan trip.

Athens is known for its rich history that spans over 3,400 years. It is considered a birthplace of Western civilisation and is famous for its ancient landmarks such as the Acropolis with the Parthenon, the Temple of Olympian Zeus or the Panathenaic Stadium. 

These historical sites offer a glimpse into the ancient and modern Greek civilisation and attract history enthusiasts, archaeology buffs, and those interested in ancient architecture and culture.

Athens as a archeological site

Apart from the Acropolis and the Temple of Zeus, there are many more sites of archeological value in Athens such as the Ancient or Greek Agora, the Roman Agora, Hadrian’s Gate, the National Archaeological Museum of Athens and the Acropolis Museum. So archeology is or should be a major part of your visit of Athens.

Top tip! Take a combination ticket for the archeological sites and buy it at a quiet site to skip one of the Acropolis line. The line for the to ticket booth. 

Athens as a contemporary city

Athens is a busy city with a substantial dose of chaos. Lots of traffic, lots of noise. Crowded. It doesn’t have large boulevards. It’s very Mediterranean and Eastern. 

Food

There are plenty of casual restaurants where you can sample quintessential Greek dishes. Greek cuisine is known for its flavorful and wholesome dishes that are often made with fresh, local ingredients. Here are some quintessential Greek dishes that are popular and beloved by locals and visitors alike:

• Moussaka: A baked casserole dish made with layers of eggplant, minced meat (often lamb or beef), and tomatoes, topped with a creamy béchamel sauce and baked until golden and bubbly. It’s a hearty and flavorful dish that is often considered a comfort food in Greece.
• Souvlaki: A popular street food in Greece, souvlaki consists of marinated and grilled chunks of meat (usually pork or chicken) served on a skewer, often accompanied by pita bread, tomatoes, onions, and a tangy yogurt-based sauce called tzatziki. Souvlaki is a flavorful and convenient dish that is loved for its deliciousness and portability.
• Spanakopita: A savory pastry made with layers of phyllo dough filled with spinach, feta cheese, onions, and herbs. It’s typically baked until crispy and golden, and is often served as a snack or appetizer. Spanakopita is known for its delicious combination of flavors and textures, and is a popular vegetarian dish in Greece.
• Gyros: Similar to souvlaki, gyros is a popular Greek fast food dish made with meat (usually pork, chicken, or lamb) cooked on a vertical rotisserie, sliced thinly, and served in pita bread with tomatoes, onions, and a yogurt-based sauce. It’s a flavorful and convenient dish that is often enjoyed on-the-go.
• Greek Salad: A classic Mediterranean salad made with fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, bell peppers, olives, and feta cheese, drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with herbs like oregano. Greek salad is known for its fresh and tangy flavors, and is often served as a side dish or a light meal in Greece.
• Pastitsio: A Greek baked pasta dish similar to moussaka, but made with pasta (such as macaroni or penne) instead of eggplant. It’s typically layered with minced meat, tomato sauce, and béchamel sauce, then baked until bubbly and golden. Pastitsio is a comforting and flavorful dish that is often served at special occasions and celebrations.
• Baklava: A sweet and rich pastry made with layers of phyllo dough, honey, nuts (such as walnuts or pistachios), and spices. Baklava is known for its delicate layers and sweet, sticky syrup, and is a popular dessert in Greece that is often enjoyed with a cup of strong Greek coffee.

But there are so many more. Do a bit of research, ask around, consult the Michelin Guide and other sources to find addresses which won’t feel as tourist traps.

Some tips and quirks

• Restaurant names are often in Latin alphabet and don’t have a Greek-alphabet name.
• They want you to tip. You can tip with your debit or credit card or cash.
• As a matter of fact, we didn’t need cash.
• Mobile card terminals change the sequence of numbers. What? The display doesn’t show 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-0 or reversed, but a random sequence as safety measure against copycats. 
• Uber is very cheap.

So?

It’s hard to sum up a city as Athens. I was in Athens for 1.5 days and as I had been before, that was enough. 

There is the age-old question “Rome or Athens, which do you prefer?” as there is “London or Paris, which do you prefer?”. Although I get where it comes from, it’s a useless question. It’s comparing aubergines to peaches. They’re just not the same, but both are pleasurable.

Athens is a must-see for history lovers. You don’t need that many days. I reckon you can “do everything” in two to three days. Then again, I’m a speedy traveller. 

Athens 2023

1. REVIEW | Antwerp city centre to Brussels Airport (Zaventem) Airport Express shuttle bus service.
2. REVIEW | Brussels to Athens with Brussels Airlines Airbus A319, in business class, early morning.
3. ATHENS | Monastiraki – Plaka – Syntagma – National Garden – Zappeion – Hadrian’s Gate – Temple of Olympian Zeus – Panathenaic Stadium.
4. Ancient Agora of Athens.
5. REVIEW | Restaurant Kuzina in Athens.
6. REVIEW | Single room at Fresh Hotel Athens.
7. The Acropolis of Athens.
8. ATHENS | Acropolis Museum.
9. REVIEW | Michelin-star restaurant Hytra in Athens.
10. REVIEW | Aegean Business Lounge, Athens International Airport, Area B-Intra Schengen.
11. REVIEW | Athens to Brussels on Brussels Airlines’ Aerosmurf, business class, in the afternoon.