GREECE | Mykonos ft Archaeological Museum, the Windmills and massive crowds

July 2024. Steve and I are cruising on the Norwegian Getaway, a Breakaway class ship by Norwegian Cruise Line or NCL. Interestingly, our stay on board happened shortly after the Getaway paid a visit to the dry dock for some refurbishments. The route? Piraeus, which is the port of Athens in Greece; followed by Mykonos; two days in Istanbul in Turkey or Türkiye; then Kusadasi or Kuşadası for Ephesus; Rhodes; Santorini (Thira or Thera) and back to Piraeus. Oddly enough, the itinerary offered no sea days.

The first port of call of the ‘7-Day Greek Isles Round-trip Athens: Santorini, Rhodes & Istanbul‘ was Mykonos (Μύκονος).Famous as being expensive, home of the jet-set, a party place, a gay hotspot and suffering for overtourism.

Even if we stayed a short week in its capital Chora (Χώρα, which literally means ‘country’), also known as Mykonos Town, in 2023, we decided to debark and hike to the Windmills.

Mykonos?

Mykonos (or Mikonos, but I refuse to knowingly transcribe an upsilon as an i), an island of unparalleled beauty and vibrant energy and fame, has been an attraction travelers for decades. Its capital, Mykonos Town, is the heart and soul of the island, a labyrinth of whitewashed houses, blue-domed churches, and cosmopolitan allure.

Archaeological findings suggest that Mykonos was inhabited as early as the 3rd millennium BC. The island thrived during the Cycladic civilisation, renowned for its distinctive art and architecture. Mykonos also played a significant role in Greek mythology. According to legend, the island was created by the gods Apollo and Poseidon, who transformed giants into stone to form its distinctive shape.

Under Venetian rule in the 13th century, Mykonos flourished as a maritime power. The island’s strategic location in the Aegean Sea made it a key trading post. However, the island suffered greatly during the Ottoman occupation in the 16th century. It was not until the Greek War of Independence in the early 19th century that Mykonos regained its freedom.

Jet-set

The island’s transformation into an international jet-set destination began in the 1950s. Artists, celebrities, and socialites discovered Mykonos’ charm, and word spread rapidly. Today, Mykonos is synonymous with luxury, glamour, and endless entertainment. Yet, despite its cosmopolitan aura, the island has managed to preserve its authentic Cycladic character.

Mykonos Town is a feast for the senses but a pain for your eyes if you don’t wear strong sunglasses. Its iconic whitewashed houses, adorned with colorful doors and window frames, create a dazzling spectacle against the azure Aegean Sea. Narrow, winding streets invite exploration, leading to hidden squares, charming boutiques, and world-class restaurants.

At the heart of the town lies Little Venice, a picturesque neighborhood built on the water’s edge. Its houses, with their wooden balconies overhanging the sea, resemble Venetian architecture, hence the name. Watching the sunset from Little Venice is a quintessential Mykonos experience.

Another must-visit is Alefkandra, a former fishermen’s district transformed into a trendy area with upscale boutiques, bars, and restaurants. The windmills of Mykonos, once essential for grinding grain, are now iconic symbols of the island. Perched on a hill overlooking the town, they offer breathtaking panoramic views.

Mykonos Town is more than just a pretty face. It’s a place of vibrant nightlife. The island’s legendary party scene is centered in the town, with world-famous clubs and beach bars attracting revelers from around the globe. However, Mykonos also caters to those seeking a more relaxed pace. There are plenty of quiet corners to discover, where visitors can escape the crowds and enjoy the island’s laid-back atmosphere.

Beyond the town, Mykonos offers a wealth of natural beauty. Crystal-clear waters, sandy beaches, and secluded coves beckon sun-seekers. Paradise Beach, Super Paradise, and Psarou (Ψαρού) are among the most popular choices. For those seeking a more secluded experience, there are numerous hidden gems to explore.

Mykonos is not just about sun, sea, and sand. The island boasts a rich cultural heritage. The Archaeological Museum of Mykonos houses an impressive collection of Cycladic artifacts, providing insights into the island’s ancient past. The Folklore Museum showcases traditional Mykonian customs and traditions.

Landing at Mykonos New Port

The Getaway landed at Mykonos New Port, between Agios Stefanos (Άγιος Στέφανος) and Tourlos (Τοúρλος). We decided to skip the shuttle bus as in our memory, it wasn’t too far.

We were wrong. The distance was not the issue, but the lack of pavement or sidewalk for pedestrians was. So we hiked up and down a hill instead of following the coastal road.

This did allow us though to enter Chora at its northern border and we decided to see if the Archaeological Museum was open. It was closed in 2023. It was!

Archaeological Museum

Τhe Archaeological Museum of Mykonos was built in 1900-02 in Kamnaki (Καμνάκι) in a dominant position above the old harbor, in order to house the rich findings of the 5th century BC, which were discovered in Rinia (῾Ρήνεια) in 1898 and other burial vaults of the island.

Alexandros Lykakis was the architect who designed the building and the Ministry of National Education and Religious Affairs and the Athens Archaeological Society covered the expenses. The Municipality of Mykonos donated the plot and the original neoclassical building took its current ‘island’ form in 1934, while in 1972 the large eastern hall was added.

The museum exhibits a large number of vases, memorial statues, columns and funerary urns from Rinia, and very few vases from Mykonos, ranging from the prehistoric to the late Hellenistic period (3000 to 1st century B.C.). Among the collections included are tombstones and columns of the 2nd-1st century BC, vessels from the 1st century BC, figurines from the 2nd – 1st century BC, jewelry and small objects from the 2nd – 1st century BC.

There is a rich collection of vessels which is representative of the Cycladic pottery dating from the Geometric period up to the 6th century B.C. Also on exhibit are exquisite black and red figure pottery and other finds, including Hellenistic period gravestones and other sculptures.

Among the finds from Mykonos, is the impressive ‘Pithos of Mykonos‘ (‘Πίθος της Μυκόνου’): a large jar, (made in a workshop in Tinos or Τήνος in the 7th century B.C.) Richly decorated with embossed pictures depicting various scenes from the Trojan War, it is truly magnificent. (In the centre the Achaean warriors with the Trojan Horse are depicted).

The museum is small, but cute. I liked the focus on the excavations from the 19th and early 20th centuries. A bit meta. The 4 euro isn’t much.

Crowds

Steve wanted to walk to the Windmills and granted, they’re iconic for Mykonos. But the pedestrian traffic jams in the narrow streets were exacerbating.

But we did walk to the Windmills, took the obligatory photos, bought bottles of water, and returned to the ship.

So?

That day, we were complicit in overtourism and what’s wrong with cruise tourism. It’s an endless conundrum. What would a place like Mykonos be without the masses, but the masses make it unviable.

There’s no good answer to this issue.

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GREECE | Mykonos ft Archaeological Museum, the Windmills and massive crowds