Autumn 2024. Ten years after my first trip to Seoul in 2014, I am returning to the Republic of Korea, better known as South Korea. Not solo this time, but with Oriol, who has never been to Korea. On the itinerary: flying with Qatar Airways to Incheon via Doha, the capital Seoul, the historic city of Gyeongju, Busan, Jeju Island and a second stint in Seoul, where we are joined by Sehyeon. We’re spending two weeks in South Korea. The ROK is such a popular destination now. Will we experience overtourism?  

After Deoksugung Palace we walked to Gyeongbokgung Palace. To get there, pass the Sejongno, a large avenue with the statues of King Sejong and of Admiral Yi Sun-sin.

Statue of Admiral Yi Sun-sin

The Statue of Admiral Yi Sun-sin is a prominent landmark located in Gwanghwamun Plaza. Dedicated to the 16th-century Korean war hero, the statue stands 17 meters tall and is made of bronze. It depicts Admiral Yi Sun-sin (1545-1598) holding a sword, with a miniature turtle ship and war drums positioned nearby.

Considered one of Seoul’s most important public art pieces, the statue is a symbol of Korean history and national pride. Yi Sun-sin (이순신) was a Korean admiral and military general famed for his victories against the Japanese navy during the Imjin War in the Joseon period. 

Statue of King Sejong

The Statue King Sejong, a bit further, commemorates King Sejong the Great (세종,1397-1450, reign 1418-1450), the fourth king of Joseon (1392-1897). He is thought to be the greatest king in Korean history, for he is credited with great developments in science and technology, expansion of Joseon’s territory, and the creation of the Korean script, Hangeul. King Sejong’s portrait can be found on the 10,000 won bill as well.

Gyeongbokgung

Gyeongbokgung (경복궁) literally means Blessing Scenery Palace. It was the main royal palace of the Joseon Dynasty. Built in 1395, it is located in northern Seoul. The largest of the ‘Five Grand Palaces‘ built by the Joseon Dynasty, Gyeongbokgung served as the home of the royal family and the seat of government.

Gyeongbokgung continued to serve as the main palace of the Joseon Dynasty until the premises were destroyed by fire during the Imjin War (1592–1598) and abandoned for two centuries. 

However, in the 19th century, all of the palace’s 7,700 rooms were restored under the leadership of Prince Regent Heungseon during the reign of Emperor Gojong. Some 500 buildings were restored on a site of over 40 hectares.

The architectural principles of ancient Korea were incorporated into the tradition and appearance of the Joseon royal court.

In the early 20th century, much of the palace was systematically destroyed by Imperial Japan during its occupation of Korea.

In 1963, it was designated as a cultural property. Since the 1990s, the walled palace complex is gradually being restored to its original form. It also houses the National Palace Museum and the National Folk Museum within the premises of the complex.

Overview

With the Bugaksan mountain behind it and the Street of Six Ministries (today’s Sejongno) outside Gwanghwamun Gate, the main entrance to the palace, Gyeongbokgung was situated in the heart of the Korean capital city. It was steadily expanded before being reduced to ashes during the Japanese invasion of 1592.

For the next 273 years the palace grounds were left derelict until being rebuilt in 1867 under the leadership of Regent Heungseon Daewongun. The restoration was completed on a grand scale, with 330 buildings crowded together in a labyrinthine configuration. W

ithin the palace walls were the Outer Court (oejeon), offices for the king and state officials, and the Inner Court (naejeon), which included living quarters for the royal family as well as gardens for leisure. Within its extensive precincts were other palaces, large and small, including Junggung (the Queen’s residence) and Donggung (the Crown Prince’s residence).

Japanese destruction, bis

Due to its status as the symbol of national sovereignty, Gyeongbokgung was extensively damaged during the Japanese occupation of the early 20th century. 

In 1911, ownership of land at the palace was transferred to the Japanese Governor-General. 

In 1915, on the pretext of holding an exhibition, more than 90% of the buildings were torn down. Following the exhibition, the Japanese leveled whatever still remained and built their colonial headquarters, the Government-General Building (1916–26), on the site. Only a handful of iconic structures survived, including the Throne Hall and Gyeonghoeru Pavilion.

Restoration efforts have been ongoing since 1990. The Government-General Building was removed in 1996 and Heungnyemun Gate (2001) and Gwanghwamun Gate (2006–2010) were reconstructed in their original locations and forms. Reconstructions of the Inner Court and Crown Prince’s residence have also been completed.

The current total area is 415,800 m² (4,476,000 sq ft).

Geunjeongjeon (Throne Hall)

Geunjeongjeon was the throne hall where the king held audiences, made declarations, and received foreign envoys during the Joseon Dynasty. It is a designated National Treasure and is located behind the main gate, Geunjeongmun. Geunjeongjeon was originally built in 1395 but was destroyed by fire during the Japanese invasion. The current building was reconstructed in 1867.

Rank Stones

Geunjeongjeon sits on a two-tiered stone platform lined with balustrades and decorated with sculptures. The courtyard is paved with stones and lined with rank stones, indicating the standing positions of court officials.

Sajeongjeon (Executive Office)

Sajeongjeon was the king’s main executive office. The king conducted his duties and met with government officials here. It is flanked by Cheonchujeon and Manchunjeon, which have heating systems.

Gyeonghoeru (Royal Banquet Hall)

Gyeonghoeru is a hall used for state banquets. It was first built in 1412 but was destroyed by fire during the Japanese invasion. The current building was reconstructed in 1867 on an artificial island. It is a National Treasure.

Sujeongjeon (Cabinet Building)

Sujeongjeon was the cabinet building during the Joseon Dynasty. It is a National Treasure and was the location of Jiphyeonjeon Hall during King Sejong’s reign.

Gangnyeongjeon (King’s Quarters)

Gangnyeongjeon was the king’s main residence. It was first built in 1395 but was destroyed by fire during the Japanese invasion. The current building was reconstructed in 1994. It consists of corridors and chambers, with a stone deck in front.

Gyotaejeon (Queen’s Quarters)

Gyotaejeon was the queen’s main residence. It was first built in 1440 and was destroyed by fire during the Japanese invasion. The current building was reconstructed in 1994. It has a garden named Amisan, which features four hexagonal chimneys that are National Treasures.

Hyangwonjeong (Pavilion)

Hyangwonjeong is a small, two-story hexagonal pavilion built on an artificial island. It was constructed in 1873 and is connected to the palace grounds by a bridge named Chwihyanggyo.

Jagyeongjeon (Quarters of the King’s Mother)

Jagyeongjeon was the main residence of Queen Sinjeong, the mother of King Heonjong. It was first built in 1865 but was destroyed by fire twice. The current building was reconstructed in 1888. It is the only royal residence that survived the Japanese occupation.

Jibokjae (Private Royal Library)

Jibokjae is a two-story private library used by Emperor Gojong. It was built in 1876 and was moved to its current location in 1891. It has a unique Chinese architectural style.

Taewonjeon (Ancestral Shrine)

Taewonjeon is an ancestral shrine originally built in 1868 to house a portrait of King Taejo. It was destroyed by the Japanese government and was restored in 2005.

Donggung (Crown Prince’s Quarters)

Donggung was the living quarters for the crown prince and his wife. It was destroyed during the Japanese occupation and is currently under restoration.

Geoncheonggung (Private Royal Residence)

Geoncheonggung was a private royal residence built by Emperor Gojong in 1873. It was where Empress Myeongseong was assassinated by Japanese agents in 1895. Emperor Gojong left the palace after the incident and never returned. The residence was demolished by the Japanese government in 1909 and was reconstructed in 2007.

Governor-General’s Residence (Dismantled)

The Governor-General’s Residence was built during the Japanese occupation. After the establishment of the Republic of Korea, it was used as the president’s office and residence. In 1993, it was dismantled.

Changing of the royal guard

During the Joseon Dynasty, royal guards were in charge of guarding and patrolling the gates of the capital and royal palaces. They played roles by dividing the day and night shifts. Each shift in working hours took place.

Today, the changing ceremony of the royal guard (수문장 교대의식) in front of Gwanghwamun is recreated just like the Joseon Dynasty. It takes place twice a day.

National Folk Museum

The National Folk Museum of Korea (국립민속박물관) uses replicas of historical objects to illustrate the history of traditional Korean life.

Founded in 1924 during the Japanese occupation, the museum was initially called the Chōsen Folk Art Museum. It was merged with the National Museum of Korea in 1946 and moved to its current location in 1993.

The museum has over 98,000 artifacts and three main exhibition halls: ‘History of Korean People‘, ‘Korean Way of Life‘, and ‘Life Cycle of the Koreans‘. It also features open-air exhibits, such as replicas of spirit posts, stone piles, grinding mills, rice storage shelters, and kimchi pits.

In 2021, the museum reopened an exhibition showcasing 20th-century items from both the Joseon era and modern Korea in Permanent Exhibition Hall 2.

Hanbok

If you don’t want to pay the 3,000 won entry fee – or just for fun, really – you can enter free if you wear hanbok (한복). Hanbok is traditional Korean dress. There many options, from dressing like royalty, military or commoners. I’ve seen non-Koreans do it too and it’s not seen as inappropriate to wear hanbok as a foreigner.

Visiting Gyeongbokgung

Even if you keep a certain rhythm, visiting Gyeongbokgung takes time. The palace grounds are vast, but the site is spectacular.

South Korea 2024

1. QUESTION | Should you be scared of travelling to South Korea?.
2. REVIEW | Qatar Airways – economy – Boeing 787-8 Dreamliner – Brussels to Doha.
3. QATAR | Hamad International Airport (DOH) in Doha.
4. REVIEW | Qatar Airways – economy – Airbus A350 – Doha to Seoul / Incheon.
5. SOUTH KOREA | Landing at Incheon, retrieving the Wowpass and taking the AREX to Seoul Station.
6. REVIEW | Fraser Place Namdaemun Seoul near City Hall.
7. SEOUL | Deoksugung Palace by day.