Autumn 2024. Ten years after my first trip to Seoul in 2014, I am returning to the Republic of Korea, better known as South Korea. Not solo this time, but with Oriol, who has never been to Korea. On the itinerary: flying with Qatar Airways to Incheon via Doha, the capital Seoul, the historic city of Gyeongju, Busan, Jeju Island and a second stint in Seoul, where we are joined by Sehyeon. We’re spending two weeks in South Korea. The ROK is such a popular destination now. Will we experience overtourism?  

We had 2.5 days on Jeju Island. The first half day we spent in Jeju City. So there were two days left for the island. On the first full day we focused on the east side. 

Hamdeok Beach

Our first stop was Hamdeok Beach (함덕해수욕장) a popular beach known for its clear turquoise waters, soft white sand, and scenic surroundings. Hamdeok is located about 14 kilometers northeast of Jeju City. 

The area is particularly famous for its shallow, calm waters, making it ideal for swimming, snorkeling, and other family-friendly activities. The beach also has designated zones for water sports, such as paddle boarding and kayaking.

The beach area is divided into three sections, with gentle, sloping sands that create natural pools at low tide, allowing beachgoers to wade and explore marine life in the shallow waters. 

A small breakwater and a picturesque arched bridge connect the beach to Seoubong Peak, a hill on the eastern side that offers panoramic views of the coastline.

The area is also home to several walking paths, including trails leading up Seoubong Peak, allowing visitors to enjoy both the beach and the surrounding landscape.

During the summer months, Hamdeok Beach becomes a lively spot with various events and festivals, drawing a vibrant crowd. In the off-season, it transforms into a quieter destination, ideal for those looking for a more relaxed experience.

Seongsan Ilchulbong

Our next stop was Seongsan Ilchulbong (성산일출봉) a world heritage volcano which is hikeable. More hikeable than Eldborg Crater in Iceland. First we had lunch there, which was our baddest choice for lunch of the trip. 

Seongsan Ilchulbong, also known as ‘Sunrise Peak‘ is a tuff cone volcano located on the eastern coast of Jeju Island. Formed around 5,000 years ago by volcanic activity, it features a dramatic, bowl-like crater at its summit, which rises approximately 182 metres (597 feet) above sea level. 

The crater has 99 sharp, jagged rocks surrounding its rim, creating a crown-like shape that contributes to its striking appearance. Known for its scenic views, particularly at sunrise, Seongsan Ilchulbong is a major tourist attraction on Jeju Island and is one of the island’s most iconic natural landmarks.

Visitors can reach Seongsan Ilchulbong by car, bus, or taxi from various parts of Jeju Island, with the trip from Jeju City taking around one hour by car. 

A popular way to visit is by taking the 45-minute to one-hour hike to the peak along a well-maintained trail that includes both steps and more or less gentle slopes. The hike is certainly doable. It’s mostly stairs, and nice stairs at a good ratio. Grip levels are fine. 

The hike up is not free, but there’s also a shorter free course you can walk. At certain times during the day, some Haenyeo, female shellfish divers, come out for a demonstration. But we didn’t wait for them. 

Along the way, hikers can enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding coastline and the countryside. The summit offers a view into the crater as well as a sweeping view of the Pacific Ocean and Jeju’s coastline. Early morning hikes are particularly popular for watching the sunrise, which creates stunning views that have made the site famous.

Seongsan Ilchulbong was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2007 as part of the ‘Jeju Volcanic Island and Lava Tubes‘ listing, a designation that recognizes the island’s geological significance and exceptional natural beauty. South Korea cherishes UNESCO status fiercely. 

The tuff cone is considered a unique example of hydrovolcanic activity, which occurs when magma interacts explosively with water. This rare type of volcanic formation has made Seongsan Ilchulbong an important site for studying volcanic processes and coastal geomorphology. 

As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is protected and managed to ensure conservation of its geological features and surrounding ecosystem, with efforts to accommodate visitors in a way that minimizes environmental impact.

Oh, by the way. While you’re there, play the game ‘Where is the CCTV camera?’.

Ilchulland with lava tube

As the Manjanggul Lava Tube were closed in October 2024, we went to Ilchulland (일출랜드), which also features a lava tube.

Ilchulland is a botanical garden and leisure park known for its lush gardens and diverse attractions, Ilchulland is designed to showcase Jeju’s unique flora and volcanic landscapes, offering visitors a blend of natural beauty and interactive experiences. 

The park is particularly famous for its Micheon Cave, a lava tube that is accessible to the public and showcases stunning volcanic formations with dramatic lighting. 

Unlike most lava tubes, which are typically dark and rugged, Micheon Cave has been developed with pathways, lighting, and decorative elements to enhance the visitor experience, making it a unique destination on the island.

Ilchulland features a variety of garden areas, including cactus and succulent gardens, bonsai displays, flower gardens, and greenhouses with exotic plant species. Throughout the year, the park’s gardens are adorned with seasonal flowers, such as camellias, cherry blossoms, and hydrangeas, providing colorful scenery. In addition to the gardens, there are scenic walking paths, ponds, waterfalls, and stone sculptures that highlight Jeju’s volcanic history and cultural heritage.

Visitors can explore Ilchulland’s diverse landscapes and participate in activities like traditional crafts and food sampling, making it a popular destination for families and nature enthusiasts. The park’s design and layout offer a peaceful environment for walking and photography, and it provides convenient amenities, such as cafes and rest areas.

Honestly, I found to be Ilchulland to be underwhelming, a bit worn and sad-looking and tacky. I’m glad we saw the lava tube, but as a theme park it’s a bit ‘meh’. 

Wonang Waterfalls

Our next stop were the Wonang Waterfalls (원앙폭포). Wonang Waterfalls is a relatively lesser-known waterfall compared to some of the island’s more famous sites, like Jeongbang or Cheonjiyeon Falls. Situated in a natural, wooded area, Wonang Waterfalls offers a tranquil atmosphere and scenic views, making it a pleasant stop for nature lovers and hikers. 

The waterfall’s name, ‘Wonang’, translates to ‘Mandarin Duck‘, a reference to the ducks that are occasionally seen in the area, symbolizing love and harmony in Korean culture.

The falls cascade into a small, clear pool surrounded by lush vegetation and volcanic rock formations, characteristic of Jeju’s landscape. 

The area is less developed than other tourist-heavy spots, which gives it a serene and secluded feel. 

Visiting Wonang Waterfalls often involves a short hike along well-maintained trails, allowing visitors to appreciate Jeju’s natural scenery along the way. The falls are especially beautiful after rainfall, when the water flow is stronger, enhancing the picturesque quality of the site.

It rained when we were there and at first we took the wrong turn. But after mzny steps, we fund the waterfalls. 

Cheonjiyeon Waterfalls

Our last stop for the day were the Cheonjiyeon Waterfalls (천지연폭포). It was by now dark and wet. 

Cheonjiyeon Waterfalls, located in Jeju’s second city Seogwipo, is one of the island’s most popular and scenic natural attractions. The name ‘Cheonjiyeon’ translates to ‘Sky (Cheon) Connected with Land (Ji)’ alluding to the falls’ appearance of water cascading from the sky to the earth. The waterfall is approximately 22 metres (72 feet) high, 12 meters (39 feet) wide, and drops into a large, clear pool surrounded by lush vegetation, volcanic rock formations, and a well-maintained garden area.

The falls are easily accessible by a short, scenic walkway lined with subtropical plants, stone lanterns, and bridges. 

The trail leading to Cheonjiyeon takes visitors through a tranquil park area, home to diverse plant species native to Jeju Island, such as the rare dampalsu trees. At night, the waterfall and surrounding paths are illuminated, creating a unique and beautiful atmosphere for evening visits.

The pool at the base of Cheonjiyeon Waterfalls is known for its rich biodiversity, housing various freshwater fish, including the marbled eel, which is a protected species on the island. Cheonjiyeon is also culturally significant as it is the site for the annual Seven Fairies Festival, celebrating the Korean legend of fairies descending to bathe in the waterfall. Its scenic beauty and cultural ties make Cheonjiyeon Waterfalls one of Jeju’s iconic landmarks, drawing visitors for both natural exploration and photography.

So?

We had a busy first day. As in Iceland, we were able to cover quite some ground. We travel fast, because we know odds are very slim we will return. So we want to see as much as possible.

South Korea 2024

1. QUESTION | Should you be scared of travelling to South Korea?.
2. REVIEW | Qatar Airways – economy – Boeing 787-8 Dreamliner – Brussels to Doha.
3. QATAR | Hamad International Airport (DOH) in Doha.
4. REVIEW | Qatar Airways – economy – Airbus A350 – Doha to Seoul / Incheon.
5. SOUTH KOREA | Landing at Incheon, retrieving the Wowpass and taking the AREX to Seoul Station.
6. REVIEW | Fraser Place Namdaemun Seoul near City Hall.
7. SEOUL | Deoksugung Palace by day.
8. SEOUL | Admiral Yi Sun-sin – King Sejong the Great – Gyeongbokgung Palace – National Folk Museum SEOUL | Admiral Yi Sun-sin – King Sejong the Great – Gyeongbokgung Palace – National Folk Museum.
9. SEOUL | Bukchon Hanok Village – Insadong Culture Street – Jogyesa Temple – Gwangjang Market – Cheonggyecheon Stream.
10. SEOUL 2024 | Dongdaemun Design Plaza.
11. SHOPPING IN SEOUL | Myeongdong – Lotte Young Plaza – Avenuel – Lotte Department Store.
12. SEOUL | Namsan Mountain Park and N Seoul Tower.
13. SOUTH KOREA | Seoul Station.
14. REVIEW | Korail KTX Seoul – Gyeongju – Busan.
15. GYEONGJU | Daereungwong – Cheonmachong – Cheomseongdae Observatory – Banwolseong Fortress – Anapji Pond – Woljeonggyo Bridge – Gyo-dong.
16. REVIEW | Hotel Palace in Gyeongju.
17. GYEONGJU | Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto.
18. GYEONGJU | Woljeonggyo Bridge – Gyeongju National Museum – Eupseong Fortress – Shopping.
19. REVIEW | Korail KTX Gyeongju to Busan 1st class.
20. BUSAN | Gamcheon Culture Village.
21. BUSAN | Jagalchi Fish Market.
22. REVIEW | Commodore Hotel Busan.
23. KOREA | Haedong Yonggung Temple in Busan.
24. BUSAN | Haedong Blue Line Park, Sky Capsules, Beach Train and Haeundae Green Railway.
25. BUSAN | Shinsegae Centum City Department Store, Gwangalli Beach, Busan Tower.
26. QUEER KOREA | Beomil-ro, Busan’s gay street.
27. SOUTH KOREA | Jin Air from Busan to Jeju.
28. SOUTH KOREA | Jeju City during Tamna Culture Festival.
29. REVIEW | Astar Hotel in Jeju City.