March 2025. We’re embarking on a train trip to Sicily. We fly from Brussels Airport to Leonardo da Vinci Rome Fiumicino Airport with ITA Airways. Then we take an Intercity Notte sleeper train by Trenitalia from Roma Termini Railway Station across Italy to Syracuse. Yes, the train is loaded on a ferry to cross the Strait of Messina. After visiting Syracuse, Catania and Palermo, we return to Rome, and home. With 25,832 km², Sicily is only 20% smaller than Belgium (30,689 km²). Quite a lot in four days.

After visiting Syracuse and Catania, we packed our bags and set for crossing Sicily to get to Palermo. If you’re not acquainted with the geography of Sicily, that’s okay. Syracuse is in the south east (bottom right) of the island. Palermo is the north west, the top left. To compare it to Belgium, we would go from Arlon (Aarlen) to Knokke. 

But due to big engineering works on the mainline, we couldn’t cross ‘straight’ through Sicily. No, Danny found a route of three trains: To Gela, to Caltanissetta Xirbi and to Palermo. To keep the comparison with Belgium, it would be like avoiding Brussels but going via Tournai (Doornik). 

We don’t mind long train journeys. Three trains, some five hours, and a landscape which is new to us. 

The railway network of Sicily

Sicily’s railway network, predominantly standard-gauge since 1986, is managed by Rete Ferroviaria Italiana (RFI). An exception is the 111-kilometre narrow-gauge Catania-Randazzo-Linguaglossa-Riposto line, operated by Ferrovia Circumetnea. As of 2018, the operational length of the RFI network in Sicily is 1,369 kilometres.​

The network comprises eight lines that traverse all nine provinces of the region. Numerous lines were decommissioned and dismantled, particularly during the 1960s through to the late 1980s, primarily due to competition from road transport and the decline of industries such as sulphur mining, which had previously necessitated these rail connections.​

Despite being the most extensive island rail network in the Mediterranean Sea, much of Sicily’s railway infrastructure remains outdated and circuitous. 

Modernisation efforts during the 20th century were limited. It was only in the early 21st century that plans for route modifications were initiated to better meet contemporary transportation needs.​

Historically, the development of Sicily’s railways was influenced by the island’s challenging topography and economic demands. The central Sicilian backbone, which began with the Palermo-Bagheria line in 1863, was completed in 1885 with the opening of the Marianopoli tunnel. 

This completion allowed direct trains between Palermo and Catania to utilise the Vallelunga line, avoiding the longer route through Roccapalumba to Aragona-Caldare and onward to Canicattì and Caltanissetta Xirbi. The construction period of over two decades can be attributed to the difficult terrain and the line’s considerable length of approximately 240 kilometres, passing through inland provincial capitals such as Enna and Caltanissetta.​

Initially, the railway served primarily to transport sulphur from inland mines to ports like Palermo and Porto Empedocle. Over time, the focus shifted towards connecting major urban centres, being Palermo, Catania, and Messina, and facilitating passenger travel. 

However, the significance of the line for freight transport diminished by the 1970s following the closure of mines and the opening of the A19 motorway, which offered a more competitive alternative for passenger connections between these cities.​

The majority of the network is single-track (1,146 kilometres), with 791 kilometres electrified. Electrified double-track lines extend for 223 kilometres, while thermal traction lines account for 578 kilometres. 

The network’s design, dating back to the 19th century, includes steep gradients, such as the 31 per thousand incline near Enna and 30 per thousand between lower Agrigento and Aragona, reflecting the island’s mountainous terrain.​

Modernisation efforts have been sporadic. Since the 1980s, some sections near major cities have been upgraded, including the branch line to Punta Raisi airport and partial doubling of main single-track routes like the Messina-Patti and Targia-Syracuse sections. However, many lines remain outdated, and plans for comprehensive upgrades have often been abandoned.​

In terms of traffic, Sicily’s rail network primarily serves local needs. Long-distance passenger services have declined significantly since the 1960s, with a notable reduction in rolling stock ferrying between Villa San Giovanni and Messina Marittima during the early 2000s. 

Commuter traffic is more substantial around larger urban areas, particularly on the coastal Tyrrhenian lines near Palermo and Messina, and the Ionian line between Messina and Catania. Freight traffic has also decreased, with key terminals like Bicocca station—intended site of the Bicocca interport—and hubs in Gela, Termini Imerese, Priolo and Cannizzaro experiencing reduced activity.​

Recent initiatives aim to enhance the network. The Palermo-Catania-Messina railway axis is included in the ‘Sblocca Italia‘ (‘Unlock Italy‘) decree, allocating €816 million towards the estimated €8 billion needed for the entire project. 

In 2017, RFI approved the final design for doubling and speeding up the Bicocca-Catenanuova section, with plans to increase commercial speeds up to 200 km/h. The project involves constructing a double-track line over approximately 37 kilometres, with completion expected in 2022 and partial activation of one track in 2020.​

Despite these efforts, challenges persist. The network’s obsolescence, characterised by outdated infrastructure and limited modernisation, hampers efficiency. 

Control and security technologies, such as the Sistema di Controllo della Marcia del Treno (SCMT) and Sistema Supporto Condotta (SSC), are operational on portions of the network, enhancing safety. However, travel speeds remain modest, with only select sections allowing speeds up to 220 km/h, while many stretches are limited to 100 km/h or less.​

In summary, while Sicily’s railway network boasts an extensive history and coverage, it faces ongoing challenges related to modernisation, efficiency, and competitiveness with other modes of transport. Continued investment and strategic planning are essential to revitalise this vital component of the island’s infrastructure.

Our journey, leg 1: Syracuse to Gela

The first train of the day would bring us to Gela, using the single-track Syracuse–Gela–Canicattì railway. Notable stops on the way are Avola, Noto, Scicli, Modica, Ragusa and Donnafugata.

The train used on this route was / is the Trenitalia Hitachi Blues. Trenitalia named its rolling stock after music genres. 

Trenitalia Hitachi Blues

The Hitachi Blues, officially designated as HTR 312 for the three-carriage version and HTR 412 for the four-carriage variant, is a tri-mode electric train developed and manufactured by Hitachi Rail. It can operate using a 3 kV DC overhead line, diesel generators, or rechargeable batteries.​

In 2017, Trenitalia issued a tender for passenger trains capable of both overhead electric and autonomous internal propulsion. Initially awarded to Stadler Rail in 2018, the contract was subsequently reassigned to Hitachi Rail after a renegotiation phase. 

Despite legal challenges from Stadler and Alstom, the Latium Regional Administrative Court upheld the decision in favour of Hitachi in January 2019, with a final dismissal of appeals in June 2020. The €1.6 billion contract includes an initial supply of 43 trains, with provisions for a minimum of 70 and a maximum of 135 units. Production takes place at Hitachi Rail facilities in Pistoia, Naples and Reggio Calabria.​

Aesthetically, the Blues resembles the Hitachi Rock trains, featuring similar front-end designs and wide single-leaf sliding doors. Built on Hitachi Rail’s Masaccio platform, the Blues is an articulated single-deck train available in three or four-carriage configurations, utilising Jakobs bogies. Its tri-mode capability allows operation via 3 kV DC overhead lines, diesel generators (supplied by MTU), or rechargeable batteries. The official classification—HTR 312 for the three-carriage and HTR 412 for the four-carriage version—includes “H” for hybrid, marking the first use of this designation.​

Trenitalia has commissioned a total of 76 Blues trains, with a framework agreement for up to 135 units. These trains are allocated across various Italian regions: Latium (Lazio), Sardinia, Sicily, Calabria, Trentino, Tuscany, the Aosta Valley, and Friuli-Venezia Giulia.​

The first Blues train entered service in Sicily in late 2022 on fully electrified lines. Following its presentation at Palermo Centrale station on 20 December, it commenced operations between Palermo and Termini Imerese on the Palermo-Messina railway, with plans to extend services to Messina and subsequently on the Messina-Syracuse line. 

On 2 March 2023, after a presentation at Cagliari station, Blues trains began operating in Sardinia on non-electrified routes. In the following days, they entered service in Tuscany on routes featuring both electrified and non-electrified sections, showcasing their full versatility. By June 2023, Blues trains were introduced in Latium on the Rieti-Terni-Rome route.​

In September 2023, the first Blues train dedicated to InterCity services along the Ionian line was rolled out. This train features a new InterCity livery in white and azure, replacing the standard blue and green colours of regular Blues trains. In the subsequent months, it was outfitted with different InterCity seating arrangements. As of August 2024, five HTR units in the InterCity configuration are in service.​

Life on board a Trenitalia Hitachi Blues

The Blues is a nice piece of rolling stock. The comfort of the seats are good enough. There are power outlets and USB-A outlets. Missing is any form of table or tablet. Not practical to work or to eat something. 

There are two toilets on board. There’s room for bicycles. There are many screens with an avalanche of information, including a map, tracking, which toilets are free. Announcements are automated and both in Italian and English. 

Leg 2: Gela to Caltanisetta Xirbi

There’s nothing to do in Gela. After a scenic journey to Gela, but slightly delayed, we had to wait about an hour. Gela Railway Station is far from the city centre and the neighbourhood around the station is not inviting. 

So we sat, I walked a bit, I stared at the locals in tracksuits, I condemned those who crossed the tracks carelessly. 

Another Trenitalia Hitachi Blues would bring us to Caltanisetta Xirbi. The train arrived with some delay. Unfortunately, our connection time in Caltanisetta Xirbi was short. 

We inquired with the train guard, which turneed out was named Marco, if woe could catch our next train. He reassured us the next train would wait. More people needed to be in Palermo. 

Unfortunately, the odds were not in our favour. There ware issues with signaling systems on the line, to ‘help’, the train had technical issues with a door (we think). 

So unfortunately, we amassed some 100 minutes of delay. So, we wouldn’t reach Xirbi. Instead, the train terminated at Caltanisetta proper. Trenitalia arranged for a minibus to take us to Palermo. There was a train after ours, but still, the minivan driving was nice. 

So, trains in Sicily

We were pleasantly surprised by the train service in Sicily. We expected old rolling stock, but no, it’s modern. 

Beware Sicily is large. Also take into account there is cadenced timetable. So no train every half hour or hour. Research departure times in advance and plan your day accordingly.

Sicily & Rome 2025

1. REVIEW | Brussels Airport Diamond Lounge at A-Gates.
2. REVIEW | ITA Airways Business Class Brussels to Rome.
3. ROME | Afternoon tea at Hotel Hassler Roma on top of the Spanish Steps.
4. REVIEW | Trenitalia Intercity Notte in Superior (Excelsior) Class.
5. SICILY | Neapolis Archeological Park of Syracuse.
6. SYRACUSE | Ortygia.
7. REVIEW | Boutique Hotel Caportigia Syracuse.
8. SICILY | Catania.