ITALY | 1.5 day in Trieste

October 2022. As we wanted to test Trenitalia‘s Frecciarossa 1000 service from Paris to Milan, we planned a rail trip around it. From Antwerp to Paris with Thalys, the ‘Red Arrow’ to Milan and once in Italy continuing to Trieste and Bologna. The return trip took us to Basel in Switzerland to enjoy SBB‘s panoramic coach and Germany‘s Rhine route to Cologne. From there we got back to Belgium.

I don’t remember how or why we decided to include Trieste in Friuli-Venezia Giulia on this trip, but we were pleasantly surprised. We stayed 1.5 day in the harbour city, a gateway to the Adriatic Sea.

Arrival

We arrived on 25 October 2022 at noon in Trieste. After checking in at Grand Hotel Duchi d’Aosta we grabbed some local food at Buffet da Pepi.

“Our cooking art takes its roots in Austro-Hungarian tradition, brought to modern Trieste through the caldaia technique, our local interpretation of broth boiled. You can be delighted by our unbeatable mix platter, which will offer you the possibility to taste all our specialties at once. If you are in a hurry, ask for a fast and tasty porzina sandwich (spiced coppa), dressed with kren and mustard”, its website says.

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Citadel

In the afternoon we climbed up the hill to see the Basilica cattedrale di San Giusto Martire or Trieste Cathedral and Castello di San Giusto or Castle of San Giusto (St Justus) and the Museum of the Castle of San Giusto – Armoury

Lapidarium of Tergeste. It seems they like elaborate names in Italy.

The castle reminded me of Ljubljana Castle in Slovenia, which is not that far away from Trieste. St Justus Castle the armoury, the lapidarium of Tergeste – Trieste’s Roman name – and some great views.

After this swift visit which I am not reporting on separately we had a swim at the hotel. For dinner, we went to the pub-like Osteria da Marino, sporting rugby memorabilia. We ate regional dishes, served by inked Italian twinks.

We rounded up the day with an evening stroll on Piazza Unità d’Italia (Italy’s Unity Square)

Day 2

Day 2 was dominated by Marimare Castle and the Diego de Henriquez War for Peace Museum.

But we were greeted by a ceremony on the Piazza Unità d’Italia. 26 October marks the anniversary of unification with Italy in 1954, not that long ago. In the mourning huge flags of Trieste and of Italy were raised. In the evening they were lowered. Sadly, there was barely wind.

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By now it was clear we had to keep eating times in mind. Lunch is served until 2.30 PM and the restaurants are strict on this timing. Dinner is impossible before 7.30 PM.

We walked around some more and located the Campo Marzio Railway Museum. It is closed as it’s undergoing a major renovation.

We bumped into the Civico Museo della Civiltà Istriana Fiumana e Dalmata or City Museum for Istrian, Fiuman ans Dalmation Society. As it’s mostly closed, two rooms showcase photos of the Interbellum and Post-War periods.

Giovanni Cragliotto, ‘La disperazione’ (‘Dispair’), Civico Museo della Civiltà Istriana Fiumana e Dalmata.

We had a very nice set menu at Al Petes. More upscale than Marino’s pub, it still sported sporting decorations. Now basketball shirts.

Trieste’s restaurants are located in a few streets of the former Jewish Ghetto and not far from the hotel.

So?

Trieste is an unsung destination in Italy with a uncharacteristic (for Italy) history. But pretty buildings, great food and a not so touristy atmosphere make it a to discover destination. Looking for ‘hidden gems’ make these gems less hidden but well… that’s what it is.

Many sights are reachable on foot, but not Miramare and the War for Peace Museum.

At our speed, 1.5 days was a good timing.