Autumn 2024. Ten years after my first trip to Seoul in 2014, I am returning to the Republic of Korea, better known as South Korea. Not solo this time, but with Oriol, who has never been to Korea. On the itinerary: flying with Qatar Airways to Incheon via Doha, the capital Seoul, the historic city of Gyeongju, Busan, Jeju Island and a second stint in Seoul, where we are joined by Sehyeon. We’re spending two weeks in South Korea. The ROK is such a popular destination now. Will we experience overtourism?  

We spent 2.5 days, or rather half a day plus two full days on Jeju Island. What is Jeju Island? Are two days enough? How’s driving on Jeju Island?

Jeju Island

Jeju Island, located off the southern coast of the Korean Peninsula, is South Korea’s largest island and one of its nine provinces. Known for its volcanic landscape, rich cultural heritage, and distinct dialect, Jeju has a unique identity shaped by its history, environment, and contemporary role as a major tourist destination.

Historically, Jeju has been both part of and apart from the Korean mainland. Originally inhabited by indigenous people, the island’s early history is marked by the establishment of the Tamna Kingdom, an independent kingdom with ties to Korea, China, and Japan. 

Place of exile

The Tamna Kingdom maintained its sovereignty until the Goryeo Dynasty (918–1392), when it was incorporated into the Korean state. This integration continued under the Joseon Dynasty (1392–1897), during which Jeju was used as a place of exile for officials and intellectuals who had fallen out of favor with the Korean court. Jeju’s isolated location and distinct cultural practices fostered a strong local identity, including the development of unique customs, folklore, and dialect.

20th century

In the 20th century, Jeju’s history was marked by a tragic period of political violence. 

The Jeju Uprising in 1948, a brutal anti-communist suppression campaign, led to significant loss of life and hardship on the island. 

The uprising was a response to tensions surrounding the establishment of the Republic of Korea (South Korea) and the division of Korea into North and South. 

Government forces suppressed the uprising with severe measures, and the incident remained a sensitive and underreported topic until more recent years. The legacy of this event still resonates with Jeju residents, and the government has since taken steps to memorialize the victims and recognize the suffering endured by the island’s population.

Jeju today

Today, Jeju Island has a population of around 670,000 people, with residents primarily concentrated in Jeju City in the north and Seogwipo in the south. 

The island has a distinct administrative status as the Jeju Special Self-Governing Province, which grants it a degree of autonomy compared to other Korean provinces. 

This status allows Jeju to implement local policies tailored to its tourism industry, environmental conservation efforts, and unique cultural needs. 

Tangerines

Jeju’s economy, once primarily based on agriculture and fishing, now heavily relies on tourism, although agriculture remains important, especially the cultivation of tangerines and other citrus fruits, which thrive in Jeju’s mild, subtropical climate.

UNESCO

Modern Jeju is known internationally as a premier tourist destination. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site – UNESCO status is an obsession in Korea – for its volcanic features, including Hallasan Mountain, the island’s highest peak, and the Geomunoreum Lava Tubes, Jeju attracts millions of visitors annually. Its pristine beaches, dramatic coastal cliffs, waterfalls, and lush forests offer a variety of natural attractions. 

The impact of tourism on Jeju is significant: the industry is a primary economic driver, supporting local businesses, jobs, and infrastructure development. 

Challenges

However, the rapid growth of tourism has also led to challenges, such as environmental degradation, increased waste production, and strain on water and energy resources. 

Local authorities and organisations have implemented various initiatives to promote sustainable tourism, including limits on visitor numbers to certain areas and conservation programs to protect the island’s unique ecosystem.

Regional visitors

Tourists to Jeju come from both domestic and international origins, with the majority of international visitors from China, Japan, and Southeast Asian countries. 

For South Koreans, Jeju is a popular honeymoon destination and a sought-after escape due to its warm climate and natural scenery, which contrast with the mainland’s seasonal extremes. 

Additionally, the island’s visa-free entry policy for travelers from many countries has made it accessible to foreign tourists, particularly Chinese visitors, who make up a substantial portion of international arrivals.

Jeju offers a wealth of attractions and activities for visitors. Hallasan Mountain, a dormant shield volcano and the island’s central feature, is a popular destination for hiking and nature observation. 

The Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak, also known as Sunrise Peak, is a tuff cone formation offering panoramic views and one of the best sunrise spots on the island. 

The island’s extensive lava tube system, including the Manjanggul Cave, provides a glimpse into Jeju’s volcanic origins and is a UNESCO-protected site. For those interested in cultural and historical sites, Jeju Folk Village Museum and Jeju Stone Park display the island’s traditional architecture, artifacts, and heritage related to its stone culture, agriculture, and Haenyeo (female divers), who have a long tradition of harvesting seafood by free diving.

Hawaii of South Korea

Jeju’s coastal areas are home to beautiful beaches like Hamdeok Beach and Hyeopjae Beach, which are popular for swimming, snorkeling, and relaxation. Jeju is sometimes referred to as the ‘Hawaii of South Korea’.

The scenic Jeju Olle Trail network, with its interconnected walking paths around the island, allows visitors to explore Jeju’s diverse landscapes, from coastal cliffs to forests and farmlands. Jeju also has unique man-made attractions, such as Love Land, an outdoor sculpture park dedicated to themes of love and sexuality, and the Jeju Glass Castle, showcasing elaborate glass sculptures. 

Additionally, local temples like Yakcheonsa and the Cheonjiyeon and Jeongbang waterfalls highlight Jeju’s blend of natural beauty and cultural heritage.

Black pork

The cuisine of Jeju is also a draw for visitors, offering specialties like black pork, fresh seafood, and various dishes prepared with local produce, including the famed Jeju tangerines. 

Jeju’s traditional markets, such as Dongmun Market in Jeju City, provide a chance for visitors to sample local foods, purchase crafts, and experience the island’s vibrant atmosphere.

Opening up

Jeju Island has evolved from an isolated, rural society to a leading tourism destination, drawing millions of visitors annually who are captivated by its unique natural beauty, cultural richness, and hospitality. 

While tourism has brought significant economic benefits to Jeju, it has also introduced environmental and social challenges that require careful management and sustainable practices. 

Efforts to balance tourism with conservation continue to shape Jeju’s development, aiming to preserve its natural heritage and ensure that it remains a cherished destination for future generations.

Are 2.5 days enough?

Are 2.5 days enough? Yes and no. While in hindsight it seems we missed a few spots, we also feel we did quite a lot in a short amount of time. 

With a day or two extra, we would have climbed the Hallasan. Something you have to book in advance by the way. 

Oriol and I are fast, efficient travellers so we’re not lounging around. So two full days felt fine. 

Driving on Jeju Island

Driving was a bit of a challenge. Sometimes there are many colours and line on the road and it was not clear to us what they mean. 

Speed limits are often low on Jeju’s roads, as in 40 kph. Oriol respected the speed limit, but often he seemed the only one to do so. 

And due to the nature of the island and its windy roads, concentration was paramount. 

But getting a rental car was the right choice to be able to do so much in a very short period of time. 

So?

Jeju is popular destination in the region and for Koreans and it’s not hard to see why. It’s different to the rest of Korea so it offers a change, nearby. 

South Korea 2024

1. QUESTION | Should you be scared of travelling to South Korea?.
2. REVIEW | Qatar Airways – economy – Boeing 787-8 Dreamliner – Brussels to Doha.
3. QATAR | Hamad International Airport (DOH) in Doha.
4. REVIEW | Qatar Airways – economy – Airbus A350 – Doha to Seoul / Incheon.
5. SOUTH KOREA | Landing at Incheon, retrieving the Wowpass and taking the AREX to Seoul Station.
6. REVIEW | Fraser Place Namdaemun Seoul near City Hall.
7. SEOUL | Deoksugung Palace by day.
8. SEOUL | Admiral Yi Sun-sin – King Sejong the Great – Gyeongbokgung Palace – National Folk Museum SEOUL | Admiral Yi Sun-sin – King Sejong the Great – Gyeongbokgung Palace – National Folk Museum.
9. SEOUL | Bukchon Hanok Village – Insadong Culture Street – Jogyesa Temple – Gwangjang Market – Cheonggyecheon Stream.
10. SEOUL 2024 | Dongdaemun Design Plaza.
11. SHOPPING IN SEOUL | Myeongdong – Lotte Young Plaza – Avenuel – Lotte Department Store.
12. SEOUL | Namsan Mountain Park and N Seoul Tower.
13. SOUTH KOREA | Seoul Station.
14. REVIEW | Korail KTX Seoul – Gyeongju – Busan.
15. GYEONGJU | Daereungwong – Cheonmachong – Cheomseongdae Observatory – Banwolseong Fortress – Anapji Pond – Woljeonggyo Bridge – Gyo-dong.
16. REVIEW | Hotel Palace in Gyeongju.
17. GYEONGJU | Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto.
18. GYEONGJU | Woljeonggyo Bridge – Gyeongju National Museum – Eupseong Fortress – Shopping.
19. REVIEW | Korail KTX Gyeongju to Busan 1st class.
20. BUSAN | Gamcheon Culture Village.
21. BUSAN | Jagalchi Fish Market.
22. REVIEW | Commodore Hotel Busan.
23. KOREA | Haedong Yonggung Temple in Busan.
24. BUSAN | Haedong Blue Line Park, Sky Capsules, Beach Train and Haeundae Green Railway.
25. BUSAN | Shinsegae Centum City Department Store, Gwangalli Beach, Busan Tower.
26. QUEER KOREA | Beomil-ro, Busan’s gay street.
27. SOUTH KOREA | Jin Air from Busan to Jeju.
28. SOUTH KOREA | Jeju City during Tamna Culture Festival.
29. REVIEW | Astar Hotel in Jeju City.
30. JEJU ISLAND | Hamdeok Beach – Seongsan Ilchilbong volcano – Ilchulland with lava tube – Wonang Waterfalls – Cheonjiyeon Waterfalls.
31. JEJU ISLAND | Sojeonbang & Jeonbang Waterfalls – Eongtto Waterfalls – Gaetkkak Jusangjeollidae Cliffs – Cheonjeyeon Waterfall & Seonim Bridge.
32. JEJU ISLAND | Museum of Sex and Health in Seogwipo.
33. JEJU ISLAND | Eongal Coastal Trail and Iho Tewoo Horse Lighthouses.