Autumn 2024. Ten years after my first trip to Seoul in 2014, I am returning to the Republic of Korea, better known as South Korea. Not solo this time, but with Oriol, who has never been to Korea. On the itinerary: flying with Qatar Airways to Incheon via Doha, the capital Seoul, the historic city of Gyeongju, Busan, Jeju Island and a second stint in Seoul, where we are joined by Sehyeon. We’re spending two weeks in South Korea. The ROK is such a popular destination now. Will we experience overtourism?  

After arriving at Gimpo and travelling to Seoul Station, we met up with Sehyeon. Sehyeon and I have been chatting for four years and now we met in real life! How wonderful. 

We installed ourselves at the Airbnb at a stone’s throw from the station. We had dinner in Myeongdong and drinks in the Jongno 3(sam)-ga area.

The next day it was time for more sightseeing. We started with Changdeokgung (창덕궁) also known as Changdeokgung Palace or Changdeok Palace.

Changdeokgung Palace

Changdeokgung Palace, the Palace of Prospering Virtue, located in Jongno District, is one of the Five Grand Palaces built during the Joseon Dynasty (1392–1897). Constructed in 1405 as a secondary royal residence following the nearby Gyeongbokgung Palace, Changdeokgung served as a primary seat of royal power for much of the Joseon Dynasty, especially after Gyeongbokgung was destroyed during the Japanese invasions of Korea in the late 16th century. 

Known for its harmonious integration with nature, Changdeokgung is celebrated for its architectural excellence, design that emphasizes harmony with the surrounding landscape, and its Secret Garden (Huwon, 창덕궁후원), a sprawling green space used for leisure and relaxation by the royal family.

Changdeokgung was designed to embody Confucian principles, with structures organized according to a system of harmony and balance that characterizes the Joseon Dynasty’s architectural and philosophical ideals. While the palace was originally constructed in 1405, it has undergone numerous reconstructions and renovations due to both invasions and internal conflicts. 

After the Imjin War (1592–1598), the palace was restored and served as the main residence of the Joseon kings for over 300 years, becoming deeply associated with the Korean monarchy and culture. 

It was occupied until the early 20th century, even after Korea was annexed by Japan in 1910, which marks it as a rare site that continued its royal functions despite colonial occupation. 

Changdeokgung was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997 for its outstanding architectural style, which blends harmoniously with the natural landscape.

Secret Garden

One of the main attractions of Changdeokgung is its Secret Garden, also known as Huwon or Biwon. The garden covers nearly 78 acres and features a large pond, lush vegetation, pavilions, and landscaped gardens, all arranged with minimal interference to the natural terrain. 

The garden was designed for leisure, study, and meditation, and was carefully cultivated to appear natural rather than overly manicured. Huwon’s beauty lies in its subtlety and in the way it harmonizes with the changing seasons, with cherry blossoms in spring, green foliage in summer, autumn leaves, and snow-covered scenes in winter. 

Only accessible through guided tours, the garden allows visitors to experience the tranquility once reserved for royalty.

Palace halls

The palace complex includes numerous halls and buildings that reflect the political and ceremonial life of the Joseon kings. Key structures include Injeongjeon Hall, which was the throne hall used for state affairs, and Seonjeongjeon Hall, an office where the king met with his officials. 

Both halls showcase traditional Korean architectural elements, such as intricately painted wooden beams and bracket systems, which exhibit the skill of Joseon-era craftsmen. 

The king’s residential quarters, Huijeongdang Hall and Daejojeon Hall, also lie within the palace complex and provide insight into the daily lives of the royal family. Huijeongdang was originally an office but was converted into a residence in the later Joseon period. Daejojeon, where the queens resided, retains furnishings and artifacts that show the customs and lifestyle of the Joseon queens.

Yeongyeongdang Hall is another notable structure within the palace, designed in the style of a literati’s home rather than a royal palace building. Built in 1828 by King Sunjo, it was meant for private use by the royal family, offering a contrast to the more formal, ceremonial spaces. 

This building reflects Joseon’s ideal of simplicity and modesty, blending elements of a scholarly residence with royal decor. 

The Ongnyucheon area, a stream that flows through a picturesque part of Huwon, features an S-shaped watercourse and a stone carved with a Chinese poem, symbolizing the intellectual and cultural pursuits of the Joseon kings.

Harmony with nature

Changdeokgung’s architecture and layout reflect the deep cultural values of the Joseon Dynasty, focusing on simplicity, harmony with nature, and Confucian ideals of governance and life. Despite being damaged during various conflicts, the palace has been meticulously restored to preserve its historical authenticity. Its buildings and gardens are not only beautiful examples of Korean heritage but also provide a window into the political and philosophical values that shaped the dynasty.

Changgyeonggung Palace

Next to Changdeokgung is Changgyeonggung Palace (창경궁), another of the Five Grand Palaces of the Joseon Dynasty, founded by King Seongjong in 1483. 

Originally built as a residence for royal family members, including queens and concubines, the palace was designed to complement the adjacent Changdeokgung Palace, forming part of a larger royal compound that emphasized Confucian values, simplicity, and harmony with the natural landscape.

Changgyeonggung was constructed in response to the need for additional residential and ceremonial space for royal family members. King Seongjong’s primary aim in constructing the palace was to provide residences for three queens: Queen Dowager Insu, Queen Jeonghui, and his grandmother Queen Sohye. 

Changgyeonggung became a significant part of Seoul’s royal district, with an architectural style that reflects Joseon principles of simplicity and modesty, and buildings that emphasize harmony with the natural terrain. 

Unlike some of the more formal royal palaces, Changgyeonggung was designed with comfort and accessibility in mind, serving as a residence rather than primarily as a place of state affairs. The palace buildings were arranged in a linear, north-south axis, allowing for efficient and comfortable access between different areas, creating a unique spatial layout compared to other palaces of the era.

Throughout the Joseon Dynasty, Changgyeonggung underwent various periods of expansion, destruction, and restoration due to invasions, fires, and political changes. During the Japanese invasions of Korea in the late 16th century, also known as the Imjin War, Changgyeonggung, like many other historical sites in Seoul, was severely damaged by fire. 

The palace was rebuilt, but the destructive incidents highlighted its vulnerability. In the early 20th century, during the Japanese occupation of Korea (1910–1945), Changgyeonggung was altered drastically; 

Japanese authorities converted the palace into a public park and zoo, renaming it Changgyeongwon. They dismantled many of its structures and added modern amenities that disregarded the palace’s historical integrity. It wasn’t until after Korea’s liberation in 1945 that efforts were made to restore Changgyeonggung to its original design and significance. The zoo and botanical gardens were eventually relocated, and restoration work began to return the palace to its former appearance, reviving the royal character and historical authenticity of Changgyeonggung as a Joseon-era palace.

Halls

Among the most significant buildings is Myeongjeongjeon Hall, the main hall and one of the oldest surviving wooden structures in Seoul. Myeongjeongjeon was used for important state meetings and ceremonies, such as royal banquets and gatherings of the king’s advisors. 

The hall is known for its simple and unadorned wooden structure, which embodies the Confucian values of modesty and restraint. Its wooden columns and painted eaves, along with intricate carvings on the beams, demonstrate traditional Joseon craftsmanship. 

Another important structure within the palace is Munjeongjeon Hall, an administrative building where the king would meet with his officials to discuss state affairs. This hall played a central role in the daily administration of the Joseon Dynasty and is an example of the palace’s function as a place of governance.

Another key attraction at Changgyeonggung is the serene Tongmyeongjeon Hall, a royal residence that served as the primary living quarters for queens and queens dowager. Tongmyeongjeon Hall is celebrated for its refined architecture and graceful layout, which created a comfortable and accessible living environment for the royal family members. 

The surrounding courtyards and gardens also reflect the tranquil and private atmosphere that was intended for these areas of residence. Additionally, Yanghwadang Hall, a part of the women’s quarters, showcases the inner workings of royal life, offering a glimpse into the daily routines and customs observed by the royal women of the Joseon court.

One of the most unique features of Changgyeonggung is Okcheongyo Bridge, an ornately designed stone bridge constructed over a small pond near the main entrance to the palace. 

The bridge’s arched structure and carved guardian figures are classic features of Joseon-era bridges, symbolizing a spiritual passage and providing protection from evil spirits. Okcheongyo is often seen as a symbolic threshold, marking the transition from the outer, public area of the palace to the inner, more private zones. Visitors can cross the bridge and experience the historical significance it holds as a gateway to the royal residence.

The grounds of Changgyeonggung also include a beautiful pond known as Chundangji, which is divided into two sections: an upper pond and a lower pond. Initially used as a rice paddy to cultivate grain for the palace, Chundangji was later transformed into a landscaped pond with lotus plants and decorative rocks, creating a scenic area for relaxation and reflection. The pond is surrounded by lush greenery, providing an ideal setting for contemplation and leisure for the royal family. 

Today, Chundangji is a highlight for visitors, who can walk around the pond and enjoy the peaceful ambiance it provides within the palace grounds.

Greenhouse

One of the most remarkable structures within Changgyeonggung is the greenhouse, known as Daeonsil. Built during the Japanese occupation in 1909, it is one of Korea’s oldest Western-style greenhouses. Daeonsil houses a variety of plant species, and its glass and iron structure stands out amid the more traditional wooden buildings of Changgyeonggung. 

Although it was constructed during the Japanese colonial period, it has been preserved as a unique historical artifact, blending elements of Western architecture with the traditional layout of the palace. The greenhouse serves as a reminder of Changgyeonggung’s complex history, reflecting both the traditional Joseon period and the influence of colonial modernity.

In addition to these historical buildings and gardens, Changgyeonggung hosts several cultural events and activities that allow visitors to experience traditional Korean culture. 

Seasonal performances, tea ceremonies, and reenactments of royal ceremonies are sometimes held within the palace grounds, offering a unique opportunity for visitors to engage with Korea’s rich cultural heritage. 

During special occasions, visitors may also have the chance to wear hanbok, traditional Korean attire, while exploring the palace, enhancing their connection to the historical environment.

A visit

Three sites so a lot of ground to cover. Beware you need separate tickets and as the Secret Garden can only be visited with a guide, you need a time slot. Koreans and foreigners need to buy separate tickets, so Oriol had to be brave enough to insist us three to be on the same tour. 

Being not really knowledgeable on Korean history, it’s a lot to take in, all the halls and names. But Changdeokgung, the Secret Garden and Changgyeonggun are absolutely worth your time. 

South Korea 2024

1. QUESTION | Should you be scared of travelling to South Korea?.
2. REVIEW | Qatar Airways – economy – Boeing 787-8 Dreamliner – Brussels to Doha.
3. QATAR | Hamad International Airport (DOH) in Doha.
4. REVIEW | Qatar Airways – economy – Airbus A350 – Doha to Seoul / Incheon.
5. SOUTH KOREA | Landing at Incheon, retrieving the Wowpass and taking the AREX to Seoul Station.
6. REVIEW | Fraser Place Namdaemun Seoul near City Hall.
7. SEOUL | Deoksugung Palace by day.
8. SEOUL | Admiral Yi Sun-sin – King Sejong the Great – Gyeongbokgung Palace – National Folk Museum SEOUL | Admiral Yi Sun-sin – King Sejong the Great – Gyeongbokgung Palace – National Folk Museum.
9. SEOUL | Bukchon Hanok Village – Insadong Culture Street – Jogyesa Temple – Gwangjang Market – Cheonggyecheon Stream.
10. SEOUL 2024 | Dongdaemun Design Plaza.
11. SHOPPING IN SEOUL | Myeongdong – Lotte Young Plaza – Avenuel – Lotte Department Store.
12. SEOUL | Namsan Mountain Park and N Seoul Tower.
13. SOUTH KOREA | Seoul Station.
14. REVIEW | Korail KTX Seoul – Gyeongju – Busan.
15. GYEONGJU | Daereungwong – Cheonmachong – Cheomseongdae Observatory – Banwolseong Fortress – Anapji Pond – Woljeonggyo Bridge – Gyo-dong.
16. REVIEW | Hotel Palace in Gyeongju.
17. GYEONGJU | Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto.
18. GYEONGJU | Woljeonggyo Bridge – Gyeongju National Museum – Eupseong Fortress – Shopping.
19. REVIEW | Korail KTX Gyeongju to Busan 1st class.
20. BUSAN | Gamcheon Culture Village.
21. BUSAN | Jagalchi Fish Market.
22. REVIEW | Commodore Hotel Busan.
23. KOREA | Haedong Yonggung Temple in Busan.
24. BUSAN | Haedong Blue Line Park, Sky Capsules, Beach Train and Haeundae Green Railway.
25. BUSAN | Shinsegae Centum City Department Store, Gwangalli Beach, Busan Tower.
26. QUEER KOREA | Beomil-ro, Busan’s gay street.
27. SOUTH KOREA | Jin Air from Busan to Jeju.
28. SOUTH KOREA | Jeju City during Tamna Culture Festival.
29. REVIEW | Astar Hotel in Jeju City.
30. JEJU ISLAND | Hamdeok Beach – Seongsan Ilchilbong volcano – Ilchulland with lava tube – Wonang Waterfalls – Cheonjiyeon Waterfalls.
31. JEJU ISLAND | Sojeonbang & Jeonbang Waterfalls – Eongtto Waterfalls – Gaetkkak Jusangjeollidae Cliffs – Cheonjeyeon Waterfall & Seonim Bridge.
32. JEJU ISLAND | Museum of Sex and Health in Seogwipo.
33. JEJU ISLAND | Eongal Coastal Trail and Iho Tewoo Horse Lighthouses.
34. SOUTH KOREA | Jeju Island.
35. HOW TO | Hotel saunas in South Korea.
36. SOUTH KOREA | Flying Jin Air from Jeju City to Seoul Gimpo.