Autumn 2024. Ten years after my first trip to Seoul in 2014, I am returning to the Republic of Korea, better known as South Korea. Not solo this time, but with Oriol, who has never been to Korea. On the itinerary: flying with Qatar Airways to Incheon via Doha, the capital Seoul, the historic city of Gyeongju, Busan, Jeju Island and a second stint in Seoul, where we are joined by Sehyeon. We’re spending two weeks in South Korea. The ROK is such a popular destination now. Will we experience overtourism?  

Visiting Changdeokgung, the Secret Garden and Changgyeonggun was ticking off a box. So what next? After a late lunch, we decided to go a bit further afield.

Café Pokpo and the Seodaemun Hongje Waterfall

On Instagram we had seen a reel showing Café Pokpo, an “oasis of calm” in Seoul. The café offers views on Seodaemun Hongje Waterfall or Hongjecheon Waterfall (홍제천인공폭포). But it was all but calm at Pokpo. It was very crowded.

Seodaemun Hongje Waterfall is a scenic urban waterfall located in the Hongje-dong neighborhood of Seodaemun District. This ‘hidden gem’ in the city, also known as Hongjecheon Waterfall is part of the larger Hongjecheon Stream, which flows through the western part of Seoul. 

The waterfall is a product of urban restoration projects designed to improve and preserve natural waterways within the city and to create green spaces for residents and visitors alike.

Hongjecheon Waterfall is distinctive for being one of the few natural-like waterfalls within Seoul’s urban area. While some of its features have been enhanced through restoration work, the falls blend seamlessly with the surrounding natural landscape, offering a peaceful retreat in the midst of the bustling city. The waterfall stands approximately 10 metres high and cascades into a small, clear pool below. 

The water flow is strongest during and after the rainy season, making it an ideal spot to visit in summer when the falls are at their most impressive.

The area around Hongjecheon Waterfall is designed as a park, with walking paths, benches, and picnic spots where visitors can relax and enjoy the sound of flowing water. 

The park is part of a broader effort to revitalize the Hongjecheon Stream and nearby ecosystems, and the greenery around the falls provides a habitat for birds and other small wildlife. Visitors can follow the trails along the stream, which connect to other parks and natural sites in Seodaemun District.

The falls are easily accessible by public transportation, making it a convenient destination for those who want a quick escape into nature without leaving Seoul.

Yeouido Hangang Park

After the waterfall and the park, it was time to go to the Han River for the 2024 Seoul Hangang River Light Drone Light Show. So we took public transport to Yeouido Hangang Park (여의도한강공원).

Yeouido Hangang Park is a large, popular riverside park located on Yeouido Island along the southern banks of the Han River. The park is one of Seoul’s main outdoor attractions and a favorite spot for locals and tourists alike. It is part of the larger Hangang Park system that spans multiple districts along the Han River.

The park features expansive open lawns, cycling paths, and walking trails, providing space for various outdoor activities like picnicking, biking, rollerblading, and jogging. 

Yeouido Hangang Park is especially famous for its annual cherry blossom display in spring, when the cherry trees lining the park burst into bloom, creating a pink canopy over the pathways and attracting thousands of visitors. 

The park’s recreational facilities include basketball and tennis courts, an inline skating rink, and a dedicated area for water sports, such as kayaking and paddleboarding. There are also rental services for bicycles and other equipment, making it easy for visitors to participate in activities without needing their own gear.

Another popular feature is the open-air swimming pools, which are available during the summer months. Families with children often visit the playgrounds and water play zones designed specifically for children. 

The riverside location offers spectacular views of the Han River and the Seoul skyline, particularly around sunset. Yeouido Hangang Park is a favored spot for watching fireworks, especially during Seoul’s annual International Fireworks Festival, when large crowds gather for a night of festivities and pyrotechnics.

The park is also a cultural hub, frequently hosting concerts, performances, and festivals throughout the year. Food trucks and temporary markets often pop up, especially on weekends, offering a range of local snacks, street food, and refreshments. 

In addition to modern amenities, Yeouido Hangang Park provides quiet, natural spaces with gardens, flower beds, and shaded areas, ideal for relaxation. 

Iconic sites within the park include the 63 Building and the Floating Stage, an outdoor performance space where concerts and events are held against the backdrop of the river. Located in close proximity to Yeouido’s business district, the park is accessible by public transportation, making it an ideal urban retreat for Seoul residents and tourists looking to experience both nature and the vibrant cultural life of the city.

Ttukseom Hangang Park

But we were wrong. The Light Drone Light Show (yes, twice ‘light’ in the name) doesn’t happen at Yeouido Hangang Park, but at Ttukseom Hangang Park (뚝섬한강공원).

Ttukseom Hangang Park is a multi-purpose riverside park situated along the northern banks of the Han River, within the Gwangjin District. It is part of the extensive Hangang Park network that spans the city, offering a diverse range of recreational, sports, and cultural facilities that attract both locals and visitors. The park’s unique location provides scenic views of the river and the Seoul skyline, making it a popular destination for relaxation and outdoor activities.

One of the main attractions of Ttukseom Hangang Park is its water sports facilities, particularly the Ttukseom Resort, where visitors can enjoy activities such as windsurfing, kayaking, and paddleboarding. 

The park also features an outdoor swimming pool and a water play area that are particularly popular in the summer. The biking and walking paths that run along the river are frequented by cyclists, joggers, and walkers, while the spacious lawns and picnic areas make it an ideal spot for families and groups to relax and enjoy the outdoors.

Ttukseom Hangang Park is known for its architectural centrepiece, the J-Bug, a brightly colored, tube-shaped structure that serves as both a viewing platform and a cultural space with cafés, exhibition areas, and seating. The J-Bug offers panoramic views of the Han River and is especially beautiful at night when it is illuminated. The park also includes an inline skating rink, basketball courts, soccer fields, and climbing walls, catering to various fitness and sports enthusiasts.

Seasonal events and festivals frequently take place at Ttukseom Hangang Park, including night markets, outdoor concerts, and art exhibitions, making it a lively destination year-round. 

In spring, the cherry blossoms add a burst of color to the landscape, while in autumn, the foliage creates a picturesque setting for visitors. The park’s accessible location near Ttukseom Resort Station on the Seoul Metro Line 7 makes it convenient for both locals and tourists to visit. Whether for sports, cultural activities, or simply enjoying the river views, Ttukseom Hangang Park offers a dynamic outdoor experience in the heart of Seoul.

Seoul Hangang River Light Drone Light Show

We were at Ttukseom for the Seoul Hangang River Light Drone Light Show. The show features hundreds of synchronized drones, illuminates the sky with intricate patterns, colorful lights, and animated images. 

Organised by the Seoul City government, the show is part of ongoing efforts to promote cultural events along the Han River, drawing both locals and tourists to enjoy a unique display of technology and art.

During the show, the drones take off in synchronized movements, forming various shapes and animations in the sky, often themed around Korean culture, seasonal events, or popular holidays. For example, the drones may display images of Hangeul (the Korean alphabet), national symbols, traditional patterns, or greetings in vibrant colors. The drones can even depict scenes and characters that move and transform, creating a magical experience for the audience.

The show lasted 15 minutes and is accompanied by music to enhance the visual experience. It’s often held on weekends or during special occasions, like major national holidays or festivals, and sometimes multiple shows are scheduled throughout an evening. The eco-friendly nature of drones, compared to fireworks, has made this light show a modern, sustainable alternative for large-scale events.

Crowded

You can expect big crowds. Crowd control was well organised though, allowing people to leave through a tunnel only in blocks. So after the show we just waited patiently. Not everyone was as patient, so stewards had to be firm. 

Hwayang-dong

To avoid a too crowded subway station, we decided to go ‘inland’ on foot a few blocks away and have dinner in the Konkuk University neighbourhood of Hwayang-dong. 

Hwayang-dong is a neighborhood in Gwangjin District, located on the eastern side of Seoul. It is known for its mix of residential areas, small businesses, and a bustling local culture. 

Being near a university, Hwayang-dong has a youthful vibe, with a variety of affordable dining options, cafés, and entertainment venues catering to students and young professionals. The area around Konkuk University Station, which serves both Seoul Metro Line 2 and the new Bundang Line, is particularly popular for its lively nightlife, including pubs, karaoke rooms, and bars.

South Korea 2024

1. QUESTION | Should you be scared of travelling to South Korea?.
2. REVIEW | Qatar Airways – economy – Boeing 787-8 Dreamliner – Brussels to Doha.
3. QATAR | Hamad International Airport (DOH) in Doha.
4. REVIEW | Qatar Airways – economy – Airbus A350 – Doha to Seoul / Incheon.
5. SOUTH KOREA | Landing at Incheon, retrieving the Wowpass and taking the AREX to Seoul Station.
6. REVIEW | Fraser Place Namdaemun Seoul near City Hall.
7. SEOUL | Deoksugung Palace by day.
8. SEOUL | Admiral Yi Sun-sin – King Sejong the Great – Gyeongbokgung Palace – National Folk Museum SEOUL | Admiral Yi Sun-sin – King Sejong the Great – Gyeongbokgung Palace – National Folk Museum.
9. SEOUL | Bukchon Hanok Village – Insadong Culture Street – Jogyesa Temple – Gwangjang Market – Cheonggyecheon Stream.
10. SEOUL 2024 | Dongdaemun Design Plaza.
11. SHOPPING IN SEOUL | Myeongdong – Lotte Young Plaza – Avenuel – Lotte Department Store.
12. SEOUL | Namsan Mountain Park and N Seoul Tower.
13. SOUTH KOREA | Seoul Station.
14. REVIEW | Korail KTX Seoul – Gyeongju – Busan.
15. GYEONGJU | Daereungwong – Cheonmachong – Cheomseongdae Observatory – Banwolseong Fortress – Anapji Pond – Woljeonggyo Bridge – Gyo-dong.
16. REVIEW | Hotel Palace in Gyeongju.
17. GYEONGJU | Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto.
18. GYEONGJU | Woljeonggyo Bridge – Gyeongju National Museum – Eupseong Fortress – Shopping.
19. REVIEW | Korail KTX Gyeongju to Busan 1st class.
20. BUSAN | Gamcheon Culture Village.
21. BUSAN | Jagalchi Fish Market.
22. REVIEW | Commodore Hotel Busan.
23. KOREA | Haedong Yonggung Temple in Busan.
24. BUSAN | Haedong Blue Line Park, Sky Capsules, Beach Train and Haeundae Green Railway.
25. BUSAN | Shinsegae Centum City Department Store, Gwangalli Beach, Busan Tower.
26. QUEER KOREA | Beomil-ro, Busan’s gay street.
27. SOUTH KOREA | Jin Air from Busan to Jeju.
28. SOUTH KOREA | Jeju City during Tamna Culture Festival.
29. REVIEW | Astar Hotel in Jeju City.
30. JEJU ISLAND | Hamdeok Beach – Seongsan Ilchilbong volcano – Ilchulland with lava tube – Wonang Waterfalls – Cheonjiyeon Waterfalls.
31. JEJU ISLAND | Sojeonbang & Jeonbang Waterfalls – Eongtto Waterfalls – Gaetkkak Jusangjeollidae Cliffs – Cheonjeyeon Waterfall & Seonim Bridge.
32. JEJU ISLAND | Museum of Sex and Health in Seogwipo.
33. JEJU ISLAND | Eongal Coastal Trail and Iho Tewoo Horse Lighthouses.
34. SOUTH KOREA | Jeju Island.
35. HOW TO | Hotel saunas in South Korea.
36. SOUTH KOREA | Flying Jin Air from Jeju City to Seoul Gimpo.
37. SEOUL | Changdeokgung – Secret Garden – Changgyeonggung.