In May and June 2023, we travelled from east to west across Canada. From Halifax in Nova Scotia to Montreal in Quebec, to Toronto in Ontario, to Vancouver and Whistler in British Columbia. Along the way some night trains and commuter trains, the Niagara Falls and – imagine this – a bus journey. A true Trans-Canada Train Trek.

When browsing YouTube for Montreal travel videos, there was so much choice. Montreal is clearly a popular destination. Hailed for its food, its food, its food, its bilingualism, its French culture and its European vibes, it was time for me to discover myself.

Schwarz’s

First, we headed off to Schwartz’s Deli / Charcuterie hébraïque de Montréal. Every single video recommended its smoked meat sandwich. In Halifax, a bartender recommended it as well. So we did an un-Belgian thing to do and waited in line for a table. 

Yes, the sandwich is delicious. The smoked meat in question is brisket. Brisket is a cut of meat from the breast or lower chest of beef or veal.

Bizarrely, I did not take a photo, so I’m embedding an Instagram post of Schwarz’s.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Schwartz's (@schwartzsofficial)

Rue Sainte-Catherine Ouest and Place des Arts

On our way to Old Montreal or Vieux Montréal, we walked passed Rue Sainte-Catherine Ouest and Place des Arts. A pedestrian area which was very quiet as it was Quebec’s National Patriot’s Day, a bank holiday. 

Chinatown

From there we walked through Chinatown, which was much more busy.

Waterfront

Further up is Montreal’s Old Port or Vieux Port. A popular place for leisure featuring food trucks, stalls, the Cirque du Soleil, the Montreal Science Centre (Centre des Sciences de Montréal), but also the Big Ferris Wheel or Grande Roue, en Voiles en Voiles, an high-up adventure course. 

We stopped for drinks on Terrasse William Gray, on the rooftop of William Gray hotel, overlooking Place Jacques-Cartier.

W then returned to the InterContinental Montreal to properly check in and have a swim. We had dinner at Pub Saint Pierre.

Day 2: Basilique Notre-Dame

After an oversized breakfast at Allô Mon Coco, we started day 2 with a visit of the 19th century gothic revival catholic Notre-Dame Basilica or Basilique Notre-Dame.

Mount Royal

Sam and I raced Danny and his parents to the Belvédère Kondiaronk at Mount Royal (Mont-Royal), Montreal’s eponymous hill, which is now a park. Sam and I went on foot, Danny and his parents used public transport. Sam and I won.

After drinks and a snack there, we went down the mountain via the Mount Royal Graveyard (Cimetière du Mont-Royal).

Separate ways

There we went separate ways. Danny and his family visited their Montreal cousin, so I went to the Circuit Gilles Villeneuve F1 track. I’ll talk about that later. 

The Village?

I returned to the hotel to plan an evening at Montreal’s (Gay) Village. Some naughtyness seemed a good idea, especially as I wasn’t having any success on Grindr. Too much competition of socially accepted and expected fit guys. 

But reviews for Sauna Centre-Ville weren’t exactly compelling and reviews for Sauna GI Joe indicated that place is more about renting cabins for sex or an overnight stay with barely ‘wet facilities’. Aka actual bathhouse facilities. So I chickened out. I must be honest, that’s what was going on. 

But I did have dinner at Monarque. A story about that will follow. This nice, a bit late, dinner didn’t help my motivation to go cruising. 

Day 3: Exporail

On day 3 we visited Exporail or the Canadian Railway Museum (Musée ferroviaire canadien) in Saint-Constant. That will be discussed in a separate post. 

Underground City

As it was a rainy and after some poutine, we headed to the Montreal Underground City. This pedestrian network right under the heart of the commercial city links metro stations to shopping plazas for over 33 kilometres (about 20.5 miles). Perfect to keep you sheltered from rain, the cold or the sun. But even when the weather is fait, it a popular spot.

So?

Montreal overhyped? Well, everything overhyped is per definition overhyped. What you see and hear in videos or stories is always some augmented reality. 

But I can see why Montreal is popular. The bilingualism adds some zest, there are many fun activities and places to be. Three days is the fast, tourist way. So perhaps a little short. Then again, it fit our way of travel. 

2023 Trans-Canada Train Trek

1. REVIEW | Brussels Airlines Brussels to Munich in Economy.
2. REVIEW | Lufthansa Premium Economy Munich to Montreal.
3. REVIEW | Air Canada Economy Montreal to Halifax.
4. Flying Brussels Airlines, Lufthansa and Air Canada Brussels – Munich – Montreal – Halifax in minimal economy.
5. HALIFAX | Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21.
6. REVIEW | The Westin Nova Scotian Halifax.
7. NOVA SCOTIA | Sampling Halifax.
8. REVIEW | VIA Rail Canada night train 15 ‘The Ocean’ from Halifax to Montreal.