GREECE | Delos excursion from Mykonos

Maspalomas on Gran Canaria. Sitges in Catalonia. Torremolinos in Andalusia. Mykonos in the Cyclades. These are arguably the main – and cliché – resort destinations for European gay beachgoers. But that’s not why Steve and I are going to Mykonos. We’re not beachgoers, we don’t have beach bodies, we don’t enjoy going out. No, we just want to visit the archeologic island of Delos. So making the best of coveted free time during the 2023 school summer holiday, we’re off to Greece!

Going to Delos (Δήλος) was the reason for Steve and I to go to Mykonos. Yes, really. Delos is an important archeological site. The Ancient Greeks saw it as the birthplace of Apollo, god of archery, music and dance, truth and prophecy, healing and diseases, the Sun and light, poetry, and more and of his twin sister Artemis, goddess of the hunt, the wilderness, wild animals, nature, vegetation, childbirth, care of children, and chastity. They were children of Zeus and Leto.

Later Delos became an important commercial hub, and infamously had a large slave market.

Nowadays it is fully an archeological site and only some researchers and carers are allowed to live there, along many cats.

Presentation

Nestled in the cerulean waters of the Aegean Sea, the island of Delos stands as a testament to the intertwined tapestry of Greek mythology and history. With its origins shrouded in myth and its ruins echoing the stories of ancient civilizations, Delos has captured the imaginations of scholars, travelers, and dreamers for millennia.

Delos emerges from the depths of Greek mythology as the hallowed ground where the goddess Leto sought refuge and gave birth to Apollo and Artemis. Legend has it that Leto was pursued by the jealous Hera, who forbade her from giving birth on solid land. Delos, a floating island, offered sanctuary, birthing not only deities but also a legacy that would shape the island’s destiny.

Sanctuary of the Gods

The mythological significance of Delos translated into its role as a religious sanctuary. In the heart of the island, the Sanctuary of Apollo took shape, featuring an awe-inspiring temple dedicated to the god. Pilgrims from across ancient Greece embarked on journeys to Delos, seeking favor from Apollo, Artemis, and other deities honored in sanctuaries scattered across the island. The sacred landscape became a mosaic of devotion, where the human and divine realms intertwined.

Cultural crossroads

Delos, however, wasn’t merely a place of spiritual contemplation—it was also a bustling crossroads of trade and culture. Flourishing in the 2nd century BCE, the island’s strategic location in the Aegean made it a hub for merchants, artisans, and travelers from regions as distant as Egypt, Persia, and Rome. The marketplaces buzzed with activity, as exotic goods and ideas converged, leaving an indelible mark on the island’s identity.

Archaeological treasures

Today, Delos stands frozen in time, its archaeological remains offering a window into the past. The ruins paint a vivid picture of daily life in ancient Greece, from opulent houses adorned with colorful mosaics to the grandeur of temples that once resonated with prayers. The Terrace of the Lions, a row of iconic marble lion statues, stands guard, symbolizing the island’s enduring legacy.

Preservation and UNESCO recognition

Recognizing the historical and cultural significance of Delos, UNESCO designated the island a World Heritage Site in 1990. This acknowledgment highlights the imperative of preserving the island’s archaeological treasures for future generations, ensuring that the echoes of the past continue to resonate.

A modern journey to the past

Delos remains a site of pilgrimage for modern travelers, a journey that transports them through time and space. As visitors traverse the cobblestone paths and wander amidst ancient remnants, they become part of a continuum that stretches back to the days of myth and extends into a shared human history.

The island of Delos, with its blend of myth and reality, spirituality and commerce, ancient ruins and contemporary fascination, stands as a microcosm of the complexities of human existence.

Through its stories and remains, it reminds us of the interplay between the celestial and the earthly, the ephemeral and the eternal. Delos is not merely a destination, it is an embodiment of the eternal quest to understand our origins, our place in the cosmos, and the indelible mark we leave on the world.

History timeline

5th millennium BCE: Delos was likely settled by the Cycladic people, an ancient civilization of the Aegean region.
8th century BCE: Delos began to gain prominence as a religious center, drawing pilgrims and worshippers from various parts of the Greek world.
5th century BCE: Delos came under Athenian control during the Delian League, a confederation of Greek city-states formed to counter Persian threats. The island’s status as a sacred and neutral site was upheld during this time.
2nd century BCE: Delos saw a period of significant economic and commercial growth. It became a bustling trade hub due to its strategic location, hosting merchants from across the Mediterranean Sea.
1st century BCE: Delos was declared a free port by the Roman Republic, contributing to its economic prosperity.
1st century CE: The island continued to thrive under Roman rule, with the establishment of Roman-style buildings, houses, and public spaces.
2nd century CE: Delos faced challenges such as piracy and a decline in trade, which led to a gradual decline in its importance.
3rd century CE: The decline continued, and the island’s population decreased. Delos suffered from invasions and attacks by various groups.
5th century CE: Delos was abandoned as a settlement, possibly due to the ongoing instability in the region and the decline of the Roman Empire.

Modern era

Delos remained uninhabited for centuries, with only occasional visits by travelers and explorers interested in its historical significance.

In the 19th century archaeological interest in Delos grew, and systematic excavations began, uncovering a wealth of artifacts and structures that provided insights into ancient Greek culture and architecture.

Landmarks of Delos

The Sanctuary of Apollo. At the heart of Delos stands the Sanctuary of Apollo, the most important religious site on the island. The sanctuary includes the impressive Temple of Apollo, where offerings and rituals were conducted in honor of the god. The temple’s architecture and layout reflect the ancient Greek style, showcasing the island’s significance as a place of worship.
The Terrace of the Lions. One of the most iconic landmarks on Delos, the Terrace of the Lions is a row of marble lion statues guarding the Sacred Way, the path leading from the harbor to the Sanctuary of Apollo. These statues, replicas of the original ones, were strategically placed to symbolize the island’s spiritual and protective role.
The House of Dionysos. This well-preserved ancient house showcases intricate mosaics and frescoes that depict scenes from Greek mythology and everyday life. The House of Dionysus provides a glimpse into the lifestyle and artistic achievements of the inhabitants of Delos.
The Temple of Isis. Showing Delos attracted people from all over the region.
The Temple of Hera. Got to honour the queen mother.
The House of the Dolphins. This house is known for its mosaic floors featuring depictions of dolphins, sea creatures, and intricate geometric designs. The mosaics offer a visual representation of the island’s maritime connections and natural surroundings.
The House of the Masks.
The Theatre. Delos features a well-preserved theater that could seat up to 6,000 spectators. This ancient theater was a venue for musical and theatrical performances, reflecting the island’s cultural and artistic vibrancy.
The Agora of the Competaliasts. An agora (marketplace) dedicated to the worship of the Competaliasts, a group of deities believed to protect travelers and merchants. This area showcases the island’s role as a bustling trade center and its cultural diversity.
The Temple of the Delians. Dedicated to the Delians, the people of Delos, this temple played a central role in local religious practices. It represents the island’s connection to its residents and their devotion to their homeland.
The Stoivadeion. A unique structure that served as a musical and athletic venue, hosting competitions and performances during festivals. The Stoivadeion highlights Delos’ significance as a place of cultural exchange and celebration.
The Sacred Lake. A shallow lake that was considered sacred in ancient times and was associated with rituals and religious ceremonies. The lake’s existence adds to the mystique of the island and its importance in myth and worship.

A visit

You visit Delos from Mykonos or Naxos. The journey from the Old Port of Mykonos, with Delos Tours, is just under half an hour. Beware, the Aegean Sea can be wild and it’s not without reason Odysseus‘ Odyssey was an odyssey.

You can visit Delos without a guide. We considered doing it solo, but I’m glad we had a guide. We did learn things we didn’t know and it was efficient as we didn’t have a map of the premisses and there are almost no signs with explanations.

A visit is typically just under three hours. Not a lot, but it’s enough. (Un)fortunately the museum was closed. Otherwise we would have run out of time.

Beware there is barely any shade on Delos. The Ancient Greeks chose Delos as birthplace of Apollo because it has so much light. So it can be hot, very hot. We were lucky it was a windy day.