July 2024. Steve and I are cruising on the Norwegian Getaway, a Breakaway class ship by Norwegian Cruise Line or NCL. Interestingly, our stay on board happened shortly after the Getaway paid a visit to the dry dock for some refurbishments. The route? Piraeus, which is the port of Athens in Greece; followed by Mykonos; two days in Istanbul in Turkey or Türkiye; then Kusadasi or Kuşadası for Ephesus; Rhodes; Santorini (Thira or Thera) and back to Piraeus. Oddly enough, the itinerary offered no sea days. 

We did not book a tour for day 2 in Istanbul. We decided not to visit Topkapi Palace (Topkapı Sarayı) because it is said there are very long queues and its high entry fee: 1,500 Turkish lira or some 45 euros. But we did want to see the Hagia Sophia (Ayasofya in Turkish, Ἁγία Σοφία in Ancient Greek and Sancta Sapientia in Latin).

Galataport

The Norwegian Getaway had anchored at Galataport. 

Located not far from the Sultanahmet historic neighbourhood of the Fatih district, Galataport is a massive redevelopment project that has transformed the once-industrial Karaköy district of Istanbul into a vibrant waterfront destination. This ambitious undertaking has breathed new life into the city’s historic peninsula, creating a harmonious blend of heritage and modernity.

At its core, Galataport is a state-of-the-art cruise terminal. Equipped with advanced infrastructure, it can accommodate some of the world’s largest cruise ships, positioning Istanbul as a major hub for cruise tourism. The terminal’s design seamlessly integrates with the surrounding cityscape, respecting the area’s historical character.

Beyond its cruise terminal function, Galataport has evolved into a thriving commercial and going out hub. The project encompasses a diverse range of amenities, including luxury shopping, fine dining, and entertainment options. High-end boutiques, trendy cafes, and world-class restaurants line the waterfront promenade, offering visitors a unique shopping and dining experience.

A key aspect of Galataport is its commitment to preserving the area’s historical heritage. Careful restoration work has been undertaken to revitalize old buildings and create a sense of continuity with the past. The project has also incorporated public spaces, such as parks and promenades, to enhance the overall quality of life for residents and visitors alike.

With its views of the Bosphorus and near the Golden Horn, Galataport has become a popular destination for both locals and tourists. The project has contributed to the revitalization of the Karaköy district, attracting new businesses and investment. As Istanbul continues to evolve as a global city, Galataport stands as a symbol of its transformation and its commitment to preserving its rich heritage.

To enter, you must go through security. A common theme in Istanbul. The same was true for the Grand Bazaar. Galataport includes the Istanbul Museum of Modern Art and the Istanbul Museum of Painting and Sculpture.

Sirkeci Station

Our first stop was Sirkeci Railway Station (Sirkeci Garı), also known as Istanbul Railway Station (İstanbul Garı).

The station stands as a poignant relic of the city’s illustrious past. Located on the European side of the city, near the Golden Horn, it has served as a vital transportation hub and a symbol of the city’s connection to the wider world.

Inaugurated in 1890, Sirkeci was the terminus for the Orient Express, the legendary luxury train that linked Paris to Constaninople (Istanbul). This iconic railway, a symbol of opulence and adventure, carried passengers through the heart of Europe, arriving at Sirkeci Railway Station to a world of exotic enchantment. The station’s grand architecture, with its soaring ceilings and ornate details, mirrored the luxury and romance associated with the Orient Express.

The station’s importance extended beyond its role as the final stop for the Orient Express. It was a vital transportation hub for travelers from across the Ottoman Empire and beyond. The station’s strategic location, near the city’s historic center and the bustling port of Eminönü, made it a convenient starting point for exploring Istanbul and its surrounding regions.

However, the golden age of rail travel began to wane in the mid-20th century, and Sirkeci’s role as a major transportation hub diminished. The construction of new railway terminals and the rise of air travel contributed to its decline. Despite this, the station retained its historical significance and architectural beauty, becoming a popular tourist destination.

In recent years, efforts have been made to preserve and revitalize Sirkeci Station. The station has been carefully restored, and its interior now houses the Istanbul Railway Museum, which showcases the history of railways in Turkey. The museum offers visitors a glimpse into the station’s glorious past and its role in shaping the city’s development.

We did not visit the museum, but we did see a mini exhibition on the Ottoman Empire in World War I in Palestine. 

Additionally, the construction of the Marmaray, a high-speed rail tunnel beneath the Bosphorus, has brought new life to Sirkeci. The station now serves as a stop on the Marmaray line, connecting the European and Asian sides of Istanbul. This revitalization has transformed Sirkeci into a modern transportation hub while preserving its historical charm.

Today, Sirkeci Railway Station remains a captivating blend of history and modernity. Its grandeur and association with the Orient Express continue to fascinate visitors from around the world. As a symbol of Istanbul’s rich heritage and its enduring connection to the wider world, Sirkeci Railway Station is a must-visit destination for anyone exploring the city.

Hagia Sophia

It was time for the Hagia Sophia. Earlier in 2024, the government introduced a hefty entry fee for tourists of 850 Turkish lira. That’s 25 euros. If you want to cut the line, it’s double. As 25 is more than enough, we didn’t the cut the line. There wasn’t really a line anyway. 

For this 25 euros, you only get to visit the upper floor, as the Hagia Sophia is again an active mosque. Current president Recep Tayyip Erdoğan (AKP) decided this unilaterally as a PR coup.

The Hagia Sophia stands as an enduring testament to the architectural and cultural brilliance of the Byzantine Empire. This iconic structure has witnessed the ebb and flow of empires and religions, evolving from a Christian cathedral to a Muslim mosque and ultimately a museum before assuming its current status as a place of worship once again.

Constructed by Emperor Justinian I between 532 and 537 AD, the Hagia Sophia was initially conceived as a Christian basilica. Its design, attributed to the architects Anthemius of Tralles and Isidore of Miletus, was revolutionary for its time. The vast central dome, measuring 31 meters in diameter and rising to a height of 55 meters, was a feat of engineering unmatched in its era. The architects employed innovative techniques, including pendentives, to support the dome’s weight and create a sense of spaciousness and light.

The interior of the Hagia Sophia is a spectacle. Walls and ceilings are adorned with intricate mosaics, depicting biblical figures, saints, and emperors. These mosaics, restored after centuries of neglect, offer a glimpse into the artistic and theological richness of the Byzantine world. The interplay of light and shadow, created by the building’s massive windows, enhances the spiritual atmosphere of the space.

With the conquest of Constantinople by the Ottoman Turks in 1453, the Hagia Sophia underwent a significant transformation. The Christian church was converted into a mosque, and Islamic architectural elements were added. Minarets, symbols of Islamic architecture, were erected at each corner of the building. The interior was adorned with Islamic calligraphy and tiles, superimposed on the existing Christian mosaics.

Despite the alterations, the Hagia Sophia retained much of its original Byzantine character. The vast central dome, the spacious interior, and the overall design of the building remained intact. The coexistence of Christian and Islamic elements created a unique and harmonious blend of architectural styles.

In 1935, the Turkish Republic declared the Hagia Sophia a museum, opening its doors to visitors from around the world. This decision allowed for the extensive restoration and preservation of the building’s Byzantine heritage. The mosaics were uncovered and restored, revealing the full splendor of the church’s original decoration.

However, in a controversial decision in 2020, the Turkish government reverted the Hagia Sophia’s status to a mosque. This move sparked debate and controversy both domestically and internationally. While the government has pledged to preserve the building’s historical and cultural significance, the change in status has raised concerns about the protection of its Byzantine heritage.

Regardless of its current status, the Hagia Sophia remains an iconic symbol of Istanbul and a testament to the enduring power of human creativity. 

Its history, spanning over fifteen centuries, is a microcosm of the city’s complex and multifaceted identity. As a place of worship, a museum, and now once again a mosque, the Hagia Sophia continues to captivate and inspire visitors from all walks of life. 

Topkapi Palace

On our way back to the ship, we were curious to see how close we could get to the Topkapi Palace. The park seemed free. 

The Topkapi Palace stands as a majestic testament to the opulence and power of the Ottoman Empire. For centuries, it served as the residence of Ottoman sultans, the administrative and ceremonial heart of the empire.

Construction of the palace began in 1465, shortly after Sultan Mehmet II conquered Constantinople. Its location, once occupied by the Byzantine Acropolis, offered a strategic vantage point and breathtaking views of the city. The palace complex grew organically over the centuries, incorporating various sections and buildings to accommodate the expanding needs of the Ottoman court.

At its zenith, Topkapi Palace was a self-contained city, housing thousands of people, including the sultan, his family, courtiers, and servants. The palace complex comprised several courtyards, each with its own distinct function. The first courtyard was the public area, where visitors and officials conducted their business. The second courtyard housed the imperial kitchens, stables, and other administrative offices.

The third courtyard was the private domain of the sultan and his family. Here, the sultan’s living quarters, the harem, and the Council of State chambers were located. The fourth courtyard, secluded and hidden from view, was reserved for the sultan’s personal reflection and worship.

Within the palace walls, a rich tapestry of Ottoman life unfolded. The harem, often misunderstood as a place of confinement, was in fact a complex social and political microcosm. It was home to the sultan’s wives, concubines, mother, and female relatives. The harem was not only a domestic space but also a center of power and influence.

The palace treasury, housed within the fourth courtyard, was a repository of unimaginable wealth. It contained priceless jewels, gold, and other treasures from across the empire and beyond. The collection offered a dazzling glimpse into the opulence of the Ottoman court.

Today, Topkapi is a major tourist attraction, drawing millions of visitors each year. Its grandeur and historical significance continue to captivate and inspire. The palace has been meticulously restored and preserved, allowing visitors to experience the splendor of the Ottoman era.

So?

In two days, we saw the essentials of the essentials in Istanbul. The metropolis certainly warrants a longer visit, but an itch was scratched. I know Steve will not return. Istanbul didn’t ‘click’ with him. I’m in dubio. I see myself returning, but not immediately. 

2024 Athens – Mykonos – Istanbul – Kusadasi – Rhodes – Santorini – Athens Cruise on the Norwegian Getaway

1. Flying Airbus A320neo with Aegean Airlines from Brussels to Athens return.
2. REVIEW | Athenarum Portus Life & Style Hotel in Piraeus.
3. GREECE | A modest exploration of Piraeus.
4. NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE | Before you sail, online check-in and Embarkation Day.
5. GREECE | Mykonos ft Archaeological Museum, the Windmills and massive crowds.
6. NORWEGIAN GETAWAY | Balcony Stateroom with included access to the Thermal Spa.
7. ISTANBUL | Beylerbeyi Palace – Blue Mosque – Grand Bazaar.
8. NORWEGIAN GETAWAY | Activities – sports – entertainment – common areas.