Easter 2025. I’m visiting my uncle and aunt in Leland, North Carolina. It’s my first trip of two to the United States in 2025. I haven’t seen them live since February 2020 just before the first lockdown and I haven’t travelled to this area since 2019. I’m flying with SAS and Delta. The itinerary: Brussels in Belgium – Copenhagen in Denmark – Atlanta in Georgia – Wilmington in North Carolina.  

My uncle and aunt live in Leland, NC. The nearest big city is Wilmington. That’s where things happen.

Wilmington

Wilmington is a port city located in New Hanover County, southeastern North Carolina. As of the 2020 census, it had a population of 115,451, making it the eighth-most populous city in the state. Serving as the county seat, Wilmington is the principal city of the Wilmington Metropolitan Statistical Area, which encompasses New Hanover, Brunswick, and Pender counties. By 2023, the metropolitan area’s estimated population reached 467,337.

The city is situated between the Cape Fear River (yes, famous from the eponymous film) and the Atlantic Ocean. 

It developed as a commercial port during the colonial era and grew significantly in the 19th century, becoming the largest city in North Carolina at that time. In the late 1800s, Wilmington had a majority-black, racially integrated, and prosperous community. However, on 10 November 1898, a white supremacist mob orchestrated a coup d’état, known as the Wilmington insurrection of 1898, overthrowing the elected local government, killing an estimated 10 to over 100 African Americans, and forcing thousands to flee.

During the American Civil War, Wilmington served as a major port for the Confederacy. It was the last significant Confederate port to fall to Union forces in February 1865, completing the Union blockade along the Atlantic coast.

In 1947, Wilmington College was established, primarily to educate World War II veterans. It evolved into a four-year liberal arts college in 1963 and became the University of North Carolina Wilmington (UNCW) in 1969. Today, UNCW is a significant institution in the city, contributing to its educational and cultural landscape.

Wilmington is home to the USS North Carolina, a World War II battleship now serving as a museum. In recognition of its historical significance, President Donald Trump designated Wilmington as America’s first World War II Heritage City on 2 September 2020.

The city has also become a prominent centre for the film and television industry since the 1980s, ranking third in the United States after Los Angeles and New York. Notable productions filmed in Wilmington include the films ‘Blue Velvet‘ and ‘Cape Fear‘, as well as television series such as ‘Matlock‘, ‘Dawson’s Creek‘, and ‘One Tree Hill‘.

Wilmington boasts a historic downtown area with antebellum architecture and is in proximity to several beaches, including Wrightsville Beach.

Wilmington Riverwalk

The Wilmington Riverwalk, a 1.75-mile or 2.81-kilometre wooden boardwalk along the Cape Fear River, has been instrumental in the city’s revitalisation. Initiated in the 1980s to rejuvenate the riverfront and boost tourism, the Riverwalk was completed on 18 November 2017. It connects key landmarks such as the USS North Carolina Battleship, the historic Cotton Exchange, and the 1914 Murchison Building. The walkway is lined with pastel-coloured shops, historic structures, and offers panoramic views of the river, making it a subject of numerous artworks and tours.​

Open 24 hours a day with no admission fee, the Riverwalk is a popular spot for walking, jogging, and sightseeing. It features benches, decorative lighting, and provides easy access to downtown’s boutiques, cafes, and restaurants. 

The area hosts various events throughout the year, including the weekly Wilmington Farmer’s Market every Saturday during summer, where vendors sell fresh produce and homemade goods. The annual Riverfest, a longstanding Cape Fear tradition, offers a weekend of arts, food, and entertainment. Additionally, the Riverwalk frequently features impromptu performances by local musicians and artists, contributing to its vibrant atmosphere.​

The Riverwalk’s development has significantly influenced Wilmington’s economic growth and urban revitalisation, transforming the waterfront into a lively and accessible public space. Its design accommodates pedestrians and is a popular route for walking, jogging, and sightseeing, further enhancing the city’s appeal as a tourist destination. 

The Riverwalk’s success has been recognised nationally, contributing to Wilmington’s reputation as a city that effectively integrates historical preservation with modern urban development.​

The Riverwalk’s development was part of a broader initiative to revitalise downtown Wilmington. In the 1960s and 1970s, urban sprawl led major retailers to leave the downtown area, resulting in a decline marked by adult entertainment venues. 

To counter this, local leaders, including Gene Merritt, co-founder of the Downtown Area Revitalization Effort (DARE), worked on legislation to regulate such businesses and repurposed buildings for more community-friendly uses. 

The inaugural Riverfest in 1979 celebrated the Cape Fear River and marked a turning point in attracting visitors back to the area. Construction of the Riverwalk began in 1980, aiming to reconnect people with the river and stimulate economic growth. The project received continuous support from city councils over the years, leading to the adoption of the Vision 2020 Plan in the late 1990s, which included the Riverwalk as a central feature and spurred further developments like the Convention Center and Live Oak Bank Pavilion. ​

Today, the Riverwalk is considered the backbone of downtown Wilmington, supporting local businesses, enhancing community engagement, and boosting tourism. It has transformed former industrial areas into vibrant spaces with residential units, shops, and entertainment venues. Events like the Historic Half Marathon, which incorporates the Riverwalk into its scenic course, highlight its role in showcasing the city’s charm. Ongoing investments ensure its maintenance and potential expansion, reflecting its significance in Wilmington’s identity and future growth. ​

A walk

The Riverwalk is a pleasant and popular walk. We there on Easter Monday in April 2025. Many people walked their dog(s). 

We started at the beginning and continued until Marina Grill, where my uncle Philippe and I had crab cake eggs Benedict and my aunt Beverley had shrimp tacos. We shared a giant cinnamon roll as dessert. 

We took the leftovers with us. 

North Carolina 2025

1. REVIEW | SAS Scandinavian Airlines System – Copenhagen to Atlanta – economy – Airbus A330.
2. REVIEW | Delta Air Lines – Atlanta to Wilmington – economy – Boeing 717.