COLORADO | Five days in Denver and Boulder

September 2025. After Oscar came to London in June 2024 and I joined him there for a day, I’m now going to his hometown of Denver in Colorado. My second trip to the United States in 2025, after visiting my uncle and aunt in Wilmington, North Carolina. No, Denver is is not on foreign tourists’ mind when travelling to the US. But that doesn’t bother me. Quite the contrary.

I landed in Denver on a Saturday and went straight to the Catbird Hotel in River North, aka RiNo Art District, where I met up with Oscar. He gave me a first introduction to the neighbourhood, with its mix of converted warehouses, colourful street art and creative energy.

From there, we walked together past Coors Field, the home of the Colorado Rockies, and on to Union Station, a handsome historic building that has become a lively hub of shops, bars and restaurants. It felt like a gentle but fitting start, giving me both a glimpse of Denver’s past and its modern-day character.

On Sunday we set out to see more. Our first stop was the Forney Museum of Transportation, which turned out to be a fascinating treasure trove. The collection ranged from gleaming vintage cars and old motorbikes to steam locomotives and quirky oddities of transport history.

Afterwards we went back downtown and wandered along the 16th Street Mall, a pedestrianised stretch filled with shops, cafés and buskers, which gave me a lively sense of the city’s everyday rhythm.

Oscar and I at the Forney Museum of Transportation.

Boulder

Monday took us further afield, out to Boulder. Nestled at the base of the Flatirons, the town felt very different from Denver, and the Chautauqua Trail hike we did there gave me sweeping views of the sandstone formations and foothills. It was invigorating to get out into nature and see the mountains up close after the more urban days before.

Solo

On Tuesday I struck out on my own. I started at the Colorado State Capitol, climbing the steps up to the ‘mile-high’ marker and admiring the golden dome that glinted in the sun. Inside, I explored the chambers and absorbed the symbolism of the building as the centre of Colorado’s civic life.

From there I moved on to the Denver Art Museum, which impressed me both with its striking architecture and its collections, from Native American works to bold contemporary pieces.

That evening I went to Buckhorn Exchange for Rocky Mountain oysters, the city’s oldest restaurant, where the décor was almost a museum in itself and the menu leaned heavily on game, making for a memorable dinner in a historic setting.

Wednesday was another solo day, and I began at the History Colorado Center. Its interactive exhibitions pulled me into the state’s past, from indigenous cultures to the pioneer era and mining heritage.

Afterwards I wandered through Capitol Hill, with its grand old houses and leafy streets, before finding my way to Cheesman Park, a wide and tranquil green space with open views of the city.

Goodbye

Later in the day I met up with Oscar one last time, and we said our goodbyes over ice cream at Heaven on Larimer Street, a sweet and simple way to round off our time together.

By Thursday it was time to leave. At Denver International Airport I spent some time in two of United’s business class lounges – the United Club at the B Gates East and another at the A Gates West – enjoying a little quiet before my flight.

Then I boarded my plane home, bringing to a close a trip that had combined culture, history, mountain scenery and the pleasure of exploring both with a friend and on my own.

Impressions

Denver is relatively low rise. Well, not really, but it’s not full of tall buildings as New York or Chicago. I’d describe Denver as ‘chill’. Not crowded. It’s fae from empty, but the days I was there, including a Saturday night, it didn’t feel crowded.

The Regional Transport District or RTD Denver will get you places, using buses, trams (streetcars) and full-on train units presented as light rail.

Fly the flag

I saw plenty of Colorado flags, but few Denver flags. Is pride for Colorado bigger than for Denver? The Colorado flag is great design. You find it on many items of merchandise.

Speaking of flags: while the gay bar and club scene is very small, there are LGBTQIA+ pride rainbow flags everywhere. Colorado is a blue state, open to diversity, open to marihuana use and it likes to show it.

Food

Denver’s culinary scene is a vibrant tapestry woven from its diverse cultural influences, local ingredients, and innovative chefs. The city has recently garnered national attention, earning its first two-star Michelin rating with The Wolf’s Tailor, a testament to its rising gastronomic stature.

A quintessential Denver experience is the bison Indian taco at Tocabe, where traditional fry bread is topped with shredded bison, hominy, and elderberry vinaigrette, offering a taste of Indigenous cuisine.

For a hearty, albeit indulgent, meal, the Mexican hamburger at the Original Chubby’s combines a burger patty with refried beans, cheese, and a generous smothering of green chile, encapsulating Denver’s unique take on comfort food.

The city’s embrace of diverse culinary traditions is evident in establishments like Alma Fonda Fina, which reimagines Mexican dishes with a minimalist approach, and Sap Sua, a modern Vietnamese restaurant that elevates traditional flavors with contemporary techniques. Casa Bonita, a beloved local institution, has been revitalized under new ownership, preserving its whimsical charm while enhancing its menu offerings.

Denver’s food scene is further enriched by its commitment to sustainability and innovation. Rebel Bread, for instance, has expanded to include a café and baking school, fostering a community hub centered around artisanal bread-making. Additionally, the city’s growing interest in reducing food waste is reflected in the adoption of apps like Too Good To Go, which connects consumers with surplus food from local restaurants at reduced prices.

Except for the Buckhorn Exchange, I did not go to special restaurants. I had a burger at Hopdoddy near Denver Union Station, a cheesy pizza at Giordano’s on 16th Street Mall, I had Chipotle and one day I bought a salad at Whole Foods to eat in my room.

The best meal was the Boulder Dushambe Teahouse, fruit of a collaboration with Tajikistan.

Are five days too long?

I travel fast. It’s not uncommon to just allocate a day or two for a city. And honestly, for many cities, that’s enough.

I had 3.5 days in Denver and 2.5 would have been fine as well. But it’s okay. I paced myself this time.

So?

I had a great time in Denver, which as good vibes.

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