September 2025. After Oscar came to London in June 2024 and I joined him there for a day, I’m now going to his hometown of Denver in Colorado. My second trip to the United States in 2025, after visiting my uncle and aunt in Wilmington, North Carolina. No, Denver is is not on foreign tourists’ mind when travelling to the US. But that doesn’t bother me. Quite the contrary.
I spent three and half days in Denver, plus an excursion to Boulder. So, let’s talk about Denver.
Introducing Denver
Denver is the capital and most populous city of Colorado, situated in the South Platte River Valley on the western edge of the High Plains and just east of the Front Range of the Rocky Mountains. The city is both a municipality and a county, with its current form established in 1902 when the City and County of Denver were consolidated. Its elevation of exactly one mile above sea level has given rise to the nickname ‘The Mile High City’.
The origins of Denver date back to the Pike’s Peak Gold Rush of 1858, when it was founded as a frontier settlement providing supplies to miners. Initially two rival settlements, Denver City and Auraria, competed across the banks of Cherry Creek, but they merged in 1860. Denver grew rapidly as a centre for commerce and transportation, becoming the capital of the Colorado Territory in 1867 and later the state capital upon Colorado’s admission to the Union in 1876. The arrival of the railroads further strengthened its role as a regional hub, with connections to the transcontinental lines and major markets across the United States.
The city covers an area of about 400 square kilometres and had a population of just over 715,000 at the 2020 census. Its metropolitan area has more than three million inhabitants, and the greater Front Range urban corridor—stretching north towards Fort Collins and south towards Colorado Springs—encompasses nearly five million people, making it one of the fastest-growing regions in the country.
Denver’s climate is classified as semi-arid, characterised by low humidity, abundant sunshine, and marked variations between day and night temperatures. Winters bring snow and cold spells but are often punctuated by warmer Chinook winds descending from the mountains, while summers can be hot with frequent afternoon thunderstorms. The city experiences more than 3,000 hours of sunshine annually, and the surrounding natural environment offers access to outdoor activities from hiking to skiing in the nearby Rockies.
Culturally, Denver is home to a wide range of institutions, including the Denver Art Museum, the Denver Museum of Nature and Science, and the Denver Performing Arts Complex, one of the largest such facilities in the United States.
Its sporting life is prominent, with professional teams representing all the major leagues, including the Denver Broncos in American football, the Colorado Rockies in baseball, the Denver Nuggets in basketball, and the Colorado Avalanche in ice hockey.
Economically, Denver is a key centre for energy, telecommunications, aerospace, technology, and financial services. Several Fortune 500 companies maintain headquarters in the city, while Denver International Airport, one of the busiest in the world, serves as a major hub for air travel across North America and beyond. The city has also become notable for its craft brewing industry and evolving food culture, adding to its appeal as a destination.
The urban landscape reflects both its Western heritage and its modern aspirations, with historic districts such as Larimer Square and Union Station contrasting with newer high-rise developments. Denver has also placed increasing emphasis on sustainability, public transport, and green space, with the South Platte River corridor and extensive park system forming part of its identity.
What is there to do and see?
Denver offers a wide variety of things to see and do, combining cultural institutions, lively neighbourhoods, outdoor attractions and easy access to the mountains beyond.
The city’s cultural life is anchored by the Denver Art Museum, one of the largest in the region, with its distinctive architecture and extensive collections, including notable works of Indigenous American art.
The nearby Clyfford Still Museum is a highlight for anyone interested in twentieth-century Abstract Expressionism, while the History Colorado Center provides an engaging introduction to the state’s past, from its earliest inhabitants to the boom years of the gold rush and the development of modern Colorado.
A visit to the Colorado State Capitol allows you to explore its historic rotunda and take in sweeping views from the steps, marked at exactly one mile above sea level.
Green space is central to the city’s character. The Denver Botanic Gardens offer a mix of themed landscapes and seasonal events, while City Park, home to the Denver Zoo and the Denver Museum of Nature and Science, combines expansive lawns and lakes with views towards the Rocky Mountains. Washington Park, beloved by locals, provides lakes, gardens and shaded paths, and Sloan’s Lake is another favourite spot for relaxed walks and impressive skyline views across the water.
Denver’s historic and commercial districts are equally inviting. Larimer Square, with its restored nineteenth-century buildings, is filled with boutiques and restaurants, and the LoDo district, short for Lower Downtown, is known for its converted warehouses, now housing bars, rooftop patios and craft breweries.
Union Station is both a transport hub and a destination in its own right, offering restaurants, shops and an energetic atmosphere. Just outside the city, the celebrated Red Rocks Park and Amphitheatre, set among striking sandstone formations, is a remarkable place for hiking by day and, when the opportunity arises, for experiencing world-class concerts under the open sky.
For family-friendly attractions, the Denver Museum of Nature and Science features exhibitions on everything from dinosaurs to space exploration, as well as an IMAX theatre and planetarium. The Denver Zoo remains a popular destination, while the Downtown Aquarium brings marine life to the heart of the city. In warmer months, Elitch Gardens combines amusement rides with a water park, making it another draw for visitors of all ages.
The city is also an excellent base for excursions. The nearby town of Golden has a strong Old West atmosphere, with galleries, small shops and riverside walks, while the Rocky Mountain National Park, a little further afield, offers some of the most spectacular scenery in the American West, with abundant wildlife and hiking trails leading to dramatic vistas.
Denver’s food and drink scene has grown steadily in recent years, with the city now earning recognition in the Michelin Guide. Its long-standing reputation as a hub for craft brewing has only expanded, with countless taprooms and microbreweries scattered across town.
Together with its mix of historic districts, cultural landmarks, green spaces and easy access to the mountains, these qualities give Denver an appeal that extends well beyond its role as the capital of Colorado.
Tourism in numbers
Denver has become a major destination for visitors, drawing millions of people each year to its mix of cultural attractions, outdoor activities and urban experiences.
In 2024, the city welcomed around 37.1 million domestic visitors, including both overnight and day trips, generating approximately $10.3 billion in tourism spending. Of these visitors, nearly 20 million stayed overnight, typically for an average of 2.7 nights, while the remainder visited for the day.
Leisure travel accounts for the majority of overnight stays, and tourism supports roughly 73,500 jobs in the region. On average, visitors spend around $437 per person per trip, covering accommodation, dining, transport, retail and entertainment.
The majority of visitors come from within the United States, with the largest numbers arriving from states such as Texas, California, Florida and Arizona.
Cities that contribute the most overnight visitors include Los Angeles, New York, Dallas-Fort Worth, Phoenix and Chicago. Denver International Airport is a key gateway, handling about 36% of all overnight visitors, highlighting the city’s accessibility by air.
Tourism in Denver has grown steadily since 2019, with visitor numbers and spending significantly higher than pre-pandemic levels, though growth appears to have stabilised in 2024, with figures matching the previous year’s record.
Overtourism?
Despite the city’s popularity, overtourism does not appear to be a pressing issue in Denver itself. The city benefits from a relatively even distribution of visitors throughout the year, reducing the risk of severe congestion or strain on infrastructure.
Many visitors are repeat travellers or domestic tourists, which further eases pressure compared to the sudden surges seen in some international destinations. That said, some pressures are being felt in nearby mountain towns and rural areas, where the influx of tourists can strain local infrastructure, contribute to housing shortages and prompt tighter regulations on short-term rentals. Within the city, however, tourism remains a largely positive economic force, driving growth without generating the extreme crowding or social tensions associated with overtourism in other destinations.
Queer Denver
Denver is widely regarded as one of the most LGBTQIA+ friendly cities in the United States. The city has earned a strong reputation for legal protections and a supportive environment for LGBTQIA+ individuals.
The Capitol Hill neighbourhood, often considered the heart of Denver’s gayborhood, hosts a variety of LGBTQIA+ bars and clubs.
Notable venues include Tracks near RiNo Art District or River North, a longstanding fixture of Denver’s nightlife known for themed parties and an inclusive atmosphere, and X BAR, which offers a lively setting for socialising and dancing.
Both Midtowne Spa and the Denver Swim Club, which used to be cruising bathhouses, are permanently closed. So is Blush & Blue, which catered to lesbians.
Denver hosts several annual LGBTQIA+ events, with Denver Pride being one of the largest in the country. Held each June, the festival features a parade, concerts, and celebrations that draw large crowds.
Overall, Denver’s inclusive atmosphere, diverse nightlife options, and active LGBTQIA+ community make it a welcoming destination for queer travellers and residents alike.
While the scene is not large at all, rainbow flags feature everywhere, even outside Pride Month in June.
Hook-up apps
I went on Sniffies looking for hook-ups. I had not huge success. I expected more of Denver, not being as competitive. But no. I had the same interactions as in other places. Some conversations, as many ‘blocks’ or deleted conversations.
Of course, I didn’t spent my days online and I was geographically somewhat limited.
I had one successful hook-up, though, so I can say I joined the ‘Mile High (City) Club‘.
Public transportion
Denver’s public transportation system, managed by the Regional Transportation District or RTD Denver, offers a comprehensive network of buses and rail services connecting the city and its surrounding areas.
The RTD operates over 100 bus routes, including local, regional, and express services, alongside ten rail lines covering more than 110 miles of track and serving dozens of stations, many of which are within Denver proper.
The light rail system comprises six lines that serve the southern and western parts of the city, while several commuter rail lines connect Denver Union Station to various suburbs. These services operate daily, providing convenient access to key destinations such as downtown Denver, Denver International Airport, and major employment centres.
Fares for RTD services are determined by the number of fare zones traversed during a trip, with standard fares for bus and rail travel outside the airport zone. Tickets can be purchased via the RTD app, allowing users to buy and store tickets digitally, or through automated kiosks at light rail stations.
While Denver’s public transportation system offers extensive coverage, some riders have expressed concerns about service reliability and safety, particularly on major corridors such as Colfax Avenue and Broadway.
Issues cited include occasional route cancellations, vehicle cleanliness, and safety incidents. In response, RTD has implemented measures to enhance service reliability, including increased patrols and improved communication with passengers.
Overall, Denver’s public transportation system provides a viable option for residents and visitors seeking to navigate the city without a car. While challenges remain, ongoing efforts aim to make RTD a more efficient and user-friendly choice for urban mobility.
I never once used an Uber or Lyft ride. I didn’t need to. There were few people on the buses I used and to be hones, those were often people at the fringes of society. On the light rail, that was less a theme.
Denver Doggies
Denver and Colorado as a whole are widely recognised for being exceptionally dog-friendly, offering an environment where pets are welcomed in many public spaces and recreational areas.
The city itself has numerous off-leash dog parks, such as Wash Park, Commons Park, and Ruby Hill Park, where dogs can socialise, play, and exercise freely. Many of these parks feature agility courses, water stations, and open spaces that cater specifically to canine needs.
Beyond parks, Denver boasts a thriving culture of dog-friendly businesses. Restaurants, cafés, and breweries frequently welcome dogs on patios or in designated areas, allowing owners to enjoy meals or drinks alongside their pets.
Some establishments even provide water bowls, treats, or special menu items for dogs. Retailers, hotels, and even public transport options often accommodate pets, making it easy for visitors to bring their dogs along when exploring the city.
Colorado’s landscape further enhances its reputation as a dog-friendly state. Trails, lakes, and mountain parks across the region encourage outdoor adventures with dogs, from hiking and swimming to camping and winter sports. Many trail systems permit dogs on-leash, and certain areas allow off-leash exercise in expansive natural settings. Additionally, seasonal dog events, dog-friendly festivals, and pet-focused businesses reflect the local culture’s embrace of canine companions.
You see many dogs and dog walkers on the streets. Oscar’s friend Stephanie is professional dog walker and carer.
Therefor, Oscar and I decided a sports team should be the Denver Dogs or Denver Doggies. Which sport would fit that name?
Denver Bulldogs
I looked it up. The Denver Bulldogs are team.
The Denver Bulldogs are a prominent Australian rules football club. Established in 1997, they have become the most successful club in the history of the United States Australian Football League (USAFL), with the men’s team securing eight national championships and the women’s team achieving six national titles.
The club’s origins trace back to 1998 when founder Craig Jones initiated the formation of the team. After establishing a connection with the Australian Football League’s Western Bulldogs, the team received a set of used jumpers, marking the beginning of their journey. The inaugural match took place on Labor Day weekend of 1998 at Denver’s City Park, featuring two teams: ‘Renouf’s Rejects’ and the ‘President’s team’.
Since then, the Bulldogs have been a dominant force in the USAFL, consistently competing at a high level and fostering a strong community around the sport. Their success is a testament to the dedication and passion of their players and supporters.
Rocky Mountain oysters
Rocky Mountain oysters are a distinctive dish in Colorado, comprising bull testicles that are skinned, battered, and deep-fried. Despite the name, they bear no relation to seafood. Often served as an appetizer, they are typically accompanied by cocktail sauce or horseradish. The dish has become a regional delicacy, celebrated for its boldness and cultural significance.
In Denver, several establishments offer Rocky Mountain oysters, each providing a unique dining experience. The Buckhorn Exchange, established in 1893, is Denver’s oldest restaurant and a renowned purveyor of this dish, serving it with a horseradish dipping sauce.
Timberline Steaks & Grille, located within Denver International Airport, offers a version with a signature pub sauce, making it accessible to travellers. For a more casual setting, Stockyard Saloon provides deep-fried Rocky Mountain oysters, popular among locals and visitors alike. Wynkoop Brewing, known for its inventive brews, once released a limited-edition Rocky Mountain Oyster Stout, brewed with roasted bull testicles, reflecting the city’s adventurous culinary spirit.
Colorado 2025
- REVIEW | Lufthansa Airbus A380 in business class from Munich to Denver, return.
- DENVER | RiNo Art District – Coors Field – Lower Downtown – Union Station.
- REVIEW | Catbird Hotel in Denver’s RiNo Art District.
- REVIEW | Forney Transportation Museum in Denver.
- DENVER | 16th Street Mall.
- COLORADO | Boulder ft. Chautauqua Trail, Boulder-Dushanbe Teahouse and Pearl Street Mall.
- DENVER | Visit of the Colorado State Capitol.
- COLORADO | Denver Art Museum.
- DENVER | History Colorado Center.