June 2024. For our first visit to the United States of America since the COVID-19 pandemic, we flew to New Orleans via London Heathrow with British Airways. After two days of exploring NOLA, Amtrak‘s Crescent overnight train brought us from Louisiana to New York, where we we stayed one night only before flying home. 

After SUMMIT One One Vanderbilt, we didn’t really know what to do. Apparently, I had been mentioning the High Line quite often. “You really want to do it, don’t you”?, Danny inquired, already resigned to it despite the heat. 

It’s true, I like the High Line. While not the first park in its genre, it’s quite a modern ‘icon’ and an example followed in other cities. Antwerp is working on a Kaailine (Quay Line). Probable the worst pun you’ll hear (read) this month. 

What is the High Line?

The High Line is an urban park that has transformed a disused elevated railway into a verdant greenway, redefining urban space and community interaction in the process. 

Stretching 1.45 miles or 2.33 kilometres along Manhattan‘s West Side, the High Line offers a linear park experience unlike any other in the city, weaving together history, design, and landscape in a captivating narrative.

In the olden days

The origins of the High Line trace back to the early 20th century, a period marked by the rapid industrial expansion of New York. The West Side of Manhattan was a bustling hub of industrial activity, with factories, warehouses, and slaughterhouses relying heavily on the railroad for the transportation of goods. 

However, street-level rail lines on Tenth Avenue, infamously known as ‘Death Avenue‘, posed significant hazards to pedestrians and street traffic. In response to these dangers, the city embarked on a massive infrastructure project known as the West Side Improvement Project. 

Completed in 1934, this project included the construction of an elevated railway known as the High Line, which ran from 34th Street to St. John’s Park Terminal at Spring Street, facilitating the safe and efficient movement of freight.

For several decades, the High Line served its purpose, but by the mid-20th century, the rise of interstate trucking began to eclipse rail freight. The decline in rail traffic led to parts of the High Line being dismantled, and by 1980, the last train ran on its tracks, carrying a cargo of frozen turkeys. The remaining structure fell into disuse, becoming overgrown with weeds and facing potential demolition.

Community initiative

The story of the High Line’s revival is one of community activism and visionary urban planning. In 1999, neighborhood residents Joshua David and Robert Hammond co-founded Friends of the High Line, a non-profit organisation dedicated to preserving the structure and transforming it into a public park. 

Their efforts gained momentum, attracting support from city officials, philanthropists, and the general public. 

In 2004, an international design competition was held, and the winning proposal, submitted by James Corner Field Operations, Diller Scofidio + Renfro, and Piet Oudolf, envisioned a park that would integrate naturalistic plantings with the industrial remnants of the railway.

The first section of the High Line opened to the public in June 2009, stretching from Gansevoort Street in the Meatpacking District to 20th Street. This initial phase introduced visitors to a park that seamlessly blended horticulture with urban design. 

The pathway, flanked by lush plantings, meandered through the cityscape, offering vistas of the Hudson River and the surrounding architecture. Features such as the Gansevoort Woodland, a densely planted area evoking a forest floor, and the Diller – von Furstenberg Sundeck, with its inviting lounge chairs and water feature, quickly became popular attractions.

In subsequent years, additional sections of the High Line were unveiled, extending the park northward. 

By 2011, the second segment opened, reaching 30th Street and incorporating new design elements. Highlights of this section included the Chelsea Grasslands, where tall grasses and wildflowers created a prairie-like environment, and the Chelsea Market Passage, an enclosed space featuring public art installations and food vendors. 

This phase also introduced the 23rd Street Lawn, a tranquil grassy area perfect for picnics and relaxation.

The final segment, completed in 2014, extended the High Line to its current terminus at 34th Street. This section, known as the Rail Yards, preserved much of the original railway tracks, integrating them into the landscape design. 

The Interim Walkway, a temporary path through the Rail Yards, allowed visitors to experience the raw, unfinished feel of the space before its full transformation. Once fully completed, this area featured the 30th Street Cut-Out, where sections of the concrete deck were removed to reveal the steel framework below, and the 34th Street Entry Plaza, providing a grand entrance to the park.

Today, the High Line is celebrated not only for its innovative reuse of industrial infrastructure but also for its diverse array of attractions and programming. Visitors to the park can enjoy a rotating schedule of public art installations, performances, and educational programs that engage with the unique setting of the High Line. 

One of the signature art spaces is the High Line Art program, which commissions contemporary artists to create site-specific works that respond to the environment and history of the park. These installations, ranging from sculptures to murals to multimedia pieces, add a dynamic cultural dimension to the High Line experience.

The horticultural design of the High Line is another standout feature, curated by Dutch landscape architect Piet Oudolf. 

Oudolf’s approach emphasizes naturalistic plantings that change with the seasons, creating a living, evolving landscape. The park is home to over 500 species of plants, including perennials, grasses, shrubs, and trees, many of which are native to the region. This biodiversity not only enhances the aesthetic appeal of the High Line but also supports local wildlife, attracting birds, butterflies, and other pollinators.

As visitors traverse the High Line, they encounter a series of distinct zones, each offering a unique perspective and atmosphere. Starting at the southern end, the Gansevoort Woodland invites visitors into a shaded, verdant space that contrasts with the urban surroundings. Moving north, the Washington Grasslands and the Chelsea Thicket present more open, sunlit areas with expansive views. The Chelsea Market Passage provides a bustling, enclosed area with vendors and seating, while the 23rd Street Lawn offers a serene, open green space.

Further along, the park’s design becomes more industrial and rugged. The Cut-Outs and the Northern Spur Preserve highlight the historical elements of the railway, with exposed tracks and preserved sections of the original rail infrastructure. 

The Rail Yards, with their panoramic views of the Hudson River and the city skyline, offer a fitting culmination to the High Line journey, blending the natural and urban elements in a compelling tableau.

In addition to its physical attractions, the High Line is a hub of community activity and cultural engagement. The park hosts a wide range of events, from fitness classes and gardening workshops to art tours and children’s programs. 

Seasonal festivals and performances, such as the annual ‘High Line Hat Party‘ and ‘Out of Line‘ series, bring vibrancy and diversity to the park’s programming. These events foster a sense of community and ensure that the High Line remains a lively, dynamic space for all visitors.

The success of the High Line has also had a significant impact on the surrounding neighborhoods, spurring economic development and revitalization. T

he once-industrial areas of the Meatpacking District, West Chelsea, and Hudson Yards have seen a surge in real estate investment, new businesses, and cultural institutions. 

The Whitney Museum of American Art‘s relocation to a site adjacent to the High Line in 2015 is a testament to the park’s influence on the cultural landscape of the city.

Gentrification

Yet, this transformation has not been without controversy. The rapid gentrification and rising property values in the areas surrounding the High Line have raised concerns about displacement and affordability for long-time residents. 

Critics argue that while the High Line has brought many benefits, it has also exacerbated social and economic inequalities. Addressing these challenges remains an ongoing task for the city and the community.

The High Line stands as a testament to the power of visionary urban planning and community activism. Its successful transformation from an abandoned railway into a vibrant public park has set a precedent for similar projects around the world. Urban planners and designers now look to the High Line as a model for adaptive reuse and sustainable development, demonstrating how cities can creatively repurpose their industrial heritage to create new public spaces.

So?

In conclusion, the High Line in New York City is much more than a park; it is a symbol of urban resilience and innovation. 

Its history, from a vital freight rail line to a neglected relic and finally to a celebrated greenway, mirrors the broader narrative of New York’s capacity for reinvention.

 As a linear park, it offers a unique and immersive experience, blending nature, art, and history in a continuous dialogue with the urban environment. Its attractions, from lush gardens and historical elements to dynamic art installations and community events, ensure that it remains a beloved and ever-evolving part of the city’s landscape. 

The High Line’s legacy will continue to inspire and challenge urban planners, architects, and communities to think creatively about the potential of their own urban spaces.

Starting the trail with a refreshment

We started the High Line at the bottom. First, we wanted a drink from Shake Shack, but that was an ordeal. 

We wanted to order at the counter, but the attendant pointed us towards the screens. We were the only customers, but fine. The attendant is not the one inventing the procedure. 

Ordering at the screens wasn’t straightforward. It asked for our cell phone number, but as a data-only e-sim user that is not an option. And Danny didn’t want to give his. 

Back to the counter. “Oh, no need for your number.” Urgh. Back to the screens. We order. Danny’s drink of choice wasn’t available. Then why not include a prompt telling us?

It was such a hassle and a waste of time. The attendant could have just helped us right away. 

Ah well. 

The High Line on a hot June Thursday

Anyway, we started the trail on the corner of Gansevoort Street and Washington Street. 

Quickly, we were sidetracked by the sight of Little Island at Pier 55. Danny saw it from afar. After finding a way to go down to street level we walked there.

Little Island

Little Island at Pier 55 (stylized as Little Island @ Pier55) is an innovative public park that rises above the Hudson River, providing a unique urban oasis with an engaging blend of nature, art, and recreation. 

This striking park, which opened in May 2021, occupies a 2.4-acre site at the western edge of Manhattan’s Meatpacking District, adjacent to the Hudson River Park. 

The concept for Little Island emerged from a partnership between media mogul Barry Diller, his wife, fashion designer Diane von Fürstenberg (from Belgium), and the Hudson River Park Trust, driven by a vision to create a dynamic cultural and recreational space for the city.

The history of Little Island is deeply intertwined with the transformation of New York’s waterfront. 

The original Pier 55, like many piers along the Hudson River, had fallen into disrepair by the late 20th century. As part of the broader redevelopment efforts of the Hudson River Park Trust, the idea to reinvent Pier 55 as a public park took shape in the early 2010s. 

Funded primarily by the Diller-von Fürstenberg Family Foundation, with a significant contribution from the city and state, the project aimed to combine landscape architecture with performance and community activities in a novel and inspiring way.

Tulip pots

Designed by British designer Thomas Heatherwick and landscape architect Signe Nielsen, Little Island is a marvel of engineering and design. 

The park is supported by 132 concrete ‘tulip pots‘ of varying heights, which create an undulating topography reminiscent of rolling hills and valleys. This distinctive structure allows the park to float above the river, providing visitors with panoramic views of the city skyline and the waterfront.

Little Island offers a rich variety of activities and attractions that cater to all age groups. Its design features winding pathways, manicured lawns, and intimate garden spaces, fostering a sense of exploration and tranquility. 

The landscaping is diverse, with more than 350 species of flowers, trees, and shrubs, creating a lush and vibrant environment that changes with the seasons.

Central to Little Island’s mission is its role as a cultural and performance venue. 

The park boasts two primary performance spaces: the Amph, a 687-seat amphitheater, and The Glade, a smaller, more informal performance area. These venues host a diverse array of events, including music concerts, theater productions, dance performances, and community workshops. 

This programming is designed to be accessible and engaging, reflecting the park’s commitment to inclusivity and cultural enrichment.

In addition to its performance offerings, Little Island provides numerous recreational opportunities. Visitors can enjoy picnicking on the lawns, exploring the various gardens, or simply relaxing and taking in the scenic views. The park also features educational programs and workshops for children and adults, emphasizing horticulture, environmental stewardship, and the arts.

Since its opening, Little Island has become a beloved destination for both New Yorkers and tourists, celebrated for its innovative design and vibrant cultural programming. It represents a forward-thinking approach to urban park development, blending natural beauty with artistic expression and community engagement. 

Little Island not only enhances the city’s green space but also serves as a beacon of creativity and community on the Hudson River, inviting visitors to experience the interplay of nature, art, and urban life in a unique and captivating setting.

Back in… or on Line

After this little detour, we returned to the High Line.

It’s more than just a park. It’s an attraction. A free attraction so it’s popular and crowded. 

1.45 miles or 2.33 kilometres is quite long so you do’n feel short-changed. There’s plenty of attractions, seats or catering along the Line. There’s also art, such as the ‘Old Tree‘ by Pamela Rosenkranz. It’s a temporary exhibition. 

And you get to see New York in another way.

And thus?

When in New York, make sure to check out both the High Line and Little Island.

From New Orleans to New York on Amtrak’s Crescent – USA 2024

1. REVIEW | British Airways Brussels to London Heathrow.
2. REVIEW | British Airways World Traveller London Heathrow to New Orleans.
3. NEW ORLEANS | Streetcars, Garden District, Algiers Point, Riverfront, Jackson Square.
4. REVIEW | Louisiana State Museums – the Presbytère and the Cabildo, in New Orleans.
5. NEW ORLEANS | French Quarter ft. Bourbon Street.
6. REVIEW | voco St. James Hotel.
7. NEW ORLEANS | Riverwalk and Riverfront at the Mississippi River.
8. REVIEW | The National WWII Museum in New Orleans, Louisiana.
9. USA | A Sunday and a Monday in New Orleans, Louisiana.
10. REVIEW | Amtrak’s Crescent overnight sleeper train from New Orleans to New York in a roomette.
11. REVIEW | Hyatt Herald Square.
12. REVIEW | SUMMIT One Vanderbilt panorama / observation deck in New York City.