Autumn 2024. Ten years after my first trip to Seoul in 2014, I am returning to the Republic of Korea, better known as South Korea. Not solo this time, but with Oriol, who has never been to Korea. On the itinerary: flying with Qatar Airways to Incheon via Doha, the capital Seoul, the historic city of Gyeongju, Busan, Jeju Island and a second stint in Seoul, where we are joined by Sehyeon. We’re spending two weeks in South Korea. The ROK is such a popular destination now. Will we experience overtourism?  

Inspired by Dirk and Rob from Two Friends Abroad we visited Busan’s gay street Beomil-ro. “G Men had a slightly older clientele & was rather serious. Kuma was fun. Both small bars, was more of a small social gathering of friends. With the help of some translating apps we easily blended in. The last night we went to Rock, which was more Western style with western dance music and a younger clientele.”

We did a bit of research and came across Travelgay. “Busan has a small, laid-back gay scene. The city’s gaybourhood is located in in Beomil-dong in Busanjin District, near Beomil subway station. There are few friendly gay bars and clubs and gay karaoke bars in this area, and it is not unusual to see gay couples walking around.”

Where is Beomil-ro?

Beomil-ro is very near Beomil metro station, on Line 1. From Exit 1, you turn into a little street you wouldn’t think is there. At the end of that alley, you’re in Beomil-ro. 

Kuma

We visited Kuma twice, on Thursday and on Friday. Kuma is a ‘members only’ baer geared towards bears and stockier men. ‘Members only’ is just code for gay bar. 

The bartender was very chatty. We were also he only customers. Unfortunately, we didn’t catch his name.

He spoke English well, with an Aussie accent as he had lived in Melbourne. We learned from him it was a slow night because the many public holidays had altered the going out habits a bit. 

He also recommended not only to use Grindr and Jack’d for dates and hook-ups, but also 9Monster. That app is mostly popular in Japan. 

He pleaded to us to return the next day, and we did. That Friday, the small space of Kuma was not full or crowded but we weren’t alone anymore. 

There is indeed a friendly atmosphere, ideal ‘pre clubbing’. Language barrier or not, we did chat a bit with other patrons. 

Rock

Rock is apparently known to be foreign-friendly. The owner speeks English well enough and the staff is pretty engaging. So we went t have a look. 

We weren’t alone at Rock, but pretty much. I’m not sure who was staff and who wasn’t. The decor is a bit campy. With a well-endowed action doll and many flags.

The flags are said to represent the countries where the owner had gave some blow-jobs. But as he trouvle identifying some of the flag such as the flag of Samoa, I doubt that story is true. Not that it matters. 

Slow days

Both on Thursday and Friday there was hardly anyone in Beomil-ro. Slow days perhaps, or too early in the night. 

Discreet

We have found gays to be discreet in South Korea. The country is very religious and socially conservative.

“Lesbian, gay, bisexual, and transgender (LGBT) people in South Korea face prejudice, discrimination, and other barriers to social inclusion not experienced by their non-LGBT counterparts”, Wikipedia puts it academically. 

Same-sex intercourse is legal for civilians in South Korea, but in the military, same-sex intercourse among soldiers is a crime, and all able-bodied men must complete about two years of military service under the conscript system.

South Korean national law does not recognize same-sex marriage or civil unions, nor does it protect against discrimination based on sexual orientation or gender identity.

Same-sex couples cannot jointly adopt, and a 2021 Human Rights Watch investigation found that LGBTQ students face “bullying and harassment, a lack of confidential mental health support, exclusion from school curricula, and gender identity discrimination” in South Korean schools.

Hence the ‘members only’ or ‘membership’.

So?

Beomil-ro was very quiet when we were there. I hope for the queer businesses there it was a bit of a fluke. 

Gay adventures of the homosexual kind

• GRAN CANARIA | 11 takeaways to enjoy Winter Pride Maspalomas to the fullest.
• The best cities to visit as a gay solo traveller.
• Gay Hong Kong.
• Heading for the sun in gay destination Torremolinos.
• QUEER ANDORRA | Entre Nous, the only gay bar in the village.
• Queer Iceland & Rainbow(baiting) Reykjavík.
• Manchester’s gaybourhood around Canal Street.
• Pride in Valladolid, Yucatán and queer encounters in Mexico.
• FLORIDA SOLO ROAD TRIP | Eye-opening encounters in Miami.
• FLORIDA SOLO ROAD TRIP | Fort Lauderdale.
• Drag queen bingo at Pride of our Footscray Community Bar.
• LGBTQ+ get-together on Majestic Princess.
• Gays failing at being gay? ‘LGBTQ Mix & Mingle’ on Royal Caribbean’s Serenade of the Seas lacked enthusiasm.
• Gay Tel Aviv: pinkwashing or genuine?.
• Gay Taipei with misterb&b.

South Korea 2024

1. QUESTION | Should you be scared of travelling to South Korea?.
2. REVIEW | Qatar Airways – economy – Boeing 787-8 Dreamliner – Brussels to Doha.
3. QATAR | Hamad International Airport (DOH) in Doha.
4. REVIEW | Qatar Airways – economy – Airbus A350 – Doha to Seoul / Incheon.
5. SOUTH KOREA | Landing at Incheon, retrieving the Wowpass and taking the AREX to Seoul Station.
6. REVIEW | Fraser Place Namdaemun Seoul near City Hall.
7. SEOUL | Deoksugung Palace by day.
8. SEOUL | Admiral Yi Sun-sin – King Sejong the Great – Gyeongbokgung Palace – National Folk Museum SEOUL | Admiral Yi Sun-sin – King Sejong the Great – Gyeongbokgung Palace – National Folk Museum.
9. SEOUL | Bukchon Hanok Village – Insadong Culture Street – Jogyesa Temple – Gwangjang Market – Cheonggyecheon Stream.
10. SEOUL 2024 | Dongdaemun Design Plaza.
11. SHOPPING IN SEOUL | Myeongdong – Lotte Young Plaza – Avenuel – Lotte Department Store.
12. SEOUL | Namsan Mountain Park and N Seoul Tower.
13. SOUTH KOREA | Seoul Station.
14. REVIEW | Korail KTX Seoul – Gyeongju – Busan.
15. GYEONGJU | Daereungwong – Cheonmachong – Cheomseongdae Observatory – Banwolseong Fortress – Anapji Pond – Woljeonggyo Bridge – Gyo-dong.
16. REVIEW | Hotel Palace in Gyeongju.
17. GYEONGJU | Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto.
18. GYEONGJU | Woljeonggyo Bridge – Gyeongju National Museum – Eupseong Fortress – Shopping.
19. REVIEW | Korail KTX Gyeongju to Busan 1st class.
20. BUSAN | Gamcheon Culture Village.
21. BUSAN | Jagalchi Fish Market.
22. REVIEW | Commodore Hotel Busan.
23. KOREA | Haedong Yonggung Temple in Busan.
24. BUSAN | Haedong Blue Line Park, Sky Capsules, Beach Train and Haeundae Green Railway.
25. BUSAN | Shinsegae Centum City Department Store, Gwangalli Beach, Busan Tower.