In May and June 2023, we travelled from east to west across Canada. From Halifax in Nova Scotia to Montreal in Quebec, to Toronto in Ontario, to Vancouver and Whistler in British Columbia. Along the way some night trains and commuter trains, the Niagara Falls and – imagine this – a bus journey. A true Trans-Canada Train Trek.

In the previous four Canada blogposts I described the journey and life on board VIA Rail‘s number 1 train (literally) The Canadian. 

The question is. Should you do it? 

Our group of five was quite eclectic. Danny, Danny’s dad Jozef and I are quite into trains and rail travel. Danny’s mom Maddie and Sam accompanied because the other three wanted to do The Canadian. And while Maddie enjoyed the rest, the calm, and she “sat back and enjoyed the ride”, Sam got fed up with the journey around day 2.

He had several valid issues with the experience. 

Delays shorten scheduled stops

The Canadian is hugely prone to delays. On day one, we accumulated over five hours! Which means scheduled long stops – for refueling, restocking – are shortened to the minimum. So less time to explore the vicinity.

Winnipeg in Manitoba was a prime example. We were supposed to be there at 7.30 PM and have three hours which allows you to walk tp the city centre. Also because Winnipeg Union Station is not too far from the interesting parts of the city. 

Instead we arrived past 10 PM and we got one hour. So no discovering Winnipeg. That sucks.

Stops are at uninteresting places.

Saskatoon in Saskatchewan, Edmonton in Alberta or Kamloops North in British Columbia are kinda in the middle of nowhere. They’re stations, but in industrial areas. Kamloops North does not surpass the status of shunting yard.

Same got annoyed we stopped there and not at interesting place, so people can hike a bit or take nice photos. 

The meals

Sam got annoyed with the meals. He didn’t like the service and found the portions rather small. He did prefer the second catering crew over the first. For me, it was the opposite. 

I did enjoy the catering service.

Annoying announcements

Sam got in a state of mind were everything was just annoying, including announcements for things to see and watch or explaining were we are.

Sam often retreated to his quarters and would have liked to be spared these announcements.

It doesn’t help the not getting wine incident was an issue with the attendant making the announcements. 

Discomfort

He didn’t like the dome car. Which is the main selling proposition of the ride. He didn’t want the other people, the talking and didn’t like the seats. 

Passive

Sam is an active person and missed things to actively do. So it all got under his skin and once in this state of mind, it’s to see the positives.

The reality

I’m not writing this to shame Sam. Absolutely not. No “he could have known” or “he knew what he was in for”. But it does illustrate such a ride is not for everyone. 

He does have points. The Canadian oscillates between being a regular ‘commuter’ service and a tourism experience. There’s definitely some identity crisis here. Which leads to some odd choices and quirks. 

So?

To make this journey a success for yourself, you must cherish the idea of the ride. Going cross-continent in comfort and style. Ticking that box on your wish list.

You’d better be able to enjoy slow travel, looking outside often, being mostly offline for a couple of days, being out of control of your day and activities. 

If not, this is nothing for you. 

2023 Trans-Canada Train Trek

1. REVIEW | Brussels Airlines Brussels to Munich in Economy.
2. REVIEW | Lufthansa Premium Economy Munich to Montreal.
3. REVIEW | Air Canada Economy Montreal to Halifax.
4. Flying Brussels Airlines, Lufthansa and Air Canada Brussels – Munich – Montreal – Halifax in minimal economy.
5. HALIFAX | Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21.
6. REVIEW | The Westin Nova Scotian Halifax.
7. NOVA SCOTIA | Sampling Halifax.
8. REVIEW | VIA Rail Canada night train 15 ‘The Ocean’ from Halifax to Montreal.
9. QUEBEC | Meandering Montreal.
10. REVIEW | InterContinental Montreal.
11. FORMULA 1 CANADIAN GRAND PRIX | Circuit Gilles Villeneuve, Montreal track walk.
12. MONTREAL | Dining solo at Monarque felt like being part of a tv show.
13. MONTREAL | Exporail – Canadian Railway Museum in Saint-Constant.
14. REVIEW | VIA Rail train Montreal to Toronto in business class.
15. ONTARIO | Touring Toronto.
16. REVIEW | Little Canada museum in Toronto.
17. TORONTO | CN Tower.
18. REVIEW | Residence Inn by Marriott Toronto Downtown / Entertainment District.
19. CANADA | Train excursion to Niagara Falls.
20. THE CANADIAN | Day 1: boarding in Toronto and crossing Ontario.
21. THE CANADIAN | Days 2 & 3: Ontario, Manitoba, Saskatchewan and Alberta.
22. THE CANADIAN | From Jasper via the Rocky Mountains to Kamloops and Vancouver.
23. Life on board VIA Rail’s The Canadian: eating, sleeping, showering and keeping busy.