July 2024. Steve and I are cruising on the Norwegian Getaway, a Breakaway class ship by Norwegian Cruise Line or NCL. Interestingly, our stay on board happened shortly after the Getaway paid a visit to the dry dock for some refurbishments. The route? Piraeus, which is the port of Athens in Greece; followed by Mykonos; two days in Istanbul in Turkey or Türkiye; then Kusadasi or Kuşadası for Ephesus; Rhodes; Santorini (Thira or Thera) and back to Piraeus. Oddly enough, the itinerary offered no sea days.  

Between disembarking the Norwegian Getaway and my flight home, I had a couple of hours to kill in Athens. So, what to do? I wasn’t going to climb up the Acropolis. I had done that a year earlier, it was way too hot and it would have been too time consuming. 

First we dropped our bags at Athens FRESH Hotel. I’ve stayed there twice, in 2017 and in 2023. But now it’s renovated, enlarged and part of Marriott Bonvoy. 

We started walking. First we encountered Athens City Hall.

Athens City Hall

Athens City Hall (Δημαρχείο Αθηνών) is located on Athinas Street. This neoclassical building, was designed by Panagis Kalkos.

Construction started in 1872, with the building officially inaugurated in April 1874. Initially a single-story structure, it underwent several renovations and expansions over the years. The addition of a second floor in the 1930s and subsequent refurbishments have shaped its present form.

The building houses the mayor’s office, council chambers, and administrative offices. Its central location on Kotzia Square, amidst the vibrant districts of Psyrri and Monastiraki, places it at the epicenter of Athens’ bustling life. The city hall’s history mirrors Athens’ evolution, from its early days as a one-story structure to its current role as the administrative heart of a modern metropolis.

Pericles

Next to the City Hall there’s a statue of Pericles (Περικλῆς). Pericles dominated Athenian politics between the Greco-Persian and Peloponnesian Wars. Hailed as “the first citizen of Athens” by contemporary historian Thucydides, he transformed the Delian League into an Athenian empire and led Athens through the initial stages of the Peloponnesian War. The era of his dominance, roughly from 461 to 429 BC, is often termed the ‘Age of Pericles‘.

Renowned as a patron of arts and literature, Pericles elevated Athens to the cultural epicenter of the ancient Greek world. His ambitious building projects, culminating in the Parthenon and other Acropolis structures, not only beautified the city but also provided employment. 

A champion of democracy, Pericles expanded Athenian democracy, though criticized by some as populist. Descended from the influential Alcmaeonid family, he, along with other family members, succumbed to the Plague of Athens in 429 BC, marking a turning point for the city-state.

The Vallianeion Megaron

The next landmark we encountered was the the Vallianeion Megaron (Βαλλιάνειο Μέγαρο), which used to house the National Library of Greece.

In 1888, a new chapter unfolded for the National Library of Greece. The foundation stone was laid for a grand marble edifice, the ‘Vallianeion’ funded by three Kefalonian brothers – Panagi, Marino, and Andreas Vallianos – who resided abroad. Designed by the Danish architect Baron Theophilus Hansen, with construction overseen by Ernst Ziller, the Vallianeion belonged to a renowned Athenian trio of neoclassical structures, alongside the Academy of Athens and the University‘s original building.

In 1903, the National Library found its new home within the Vallianeion’s walls, departing from the University’s oldest building. Until 2017, the library served the public continuously from this location. 

The year 2018 marked a transition for the National Library, as it embarked on a new chapter at the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center. While the Vallianeion no longer houses the main library collections, it currently serves as the location for the newspaper collection and reading room.

National and Kapodistrian University of Athens

The National and Kapodistrian University of Athens (NKUA; Εθνικό και Καποδιστριακό Πανεπιστήμιο Αθηνών), usually referred to simply as the University of Athens (UoA), is a public university in Zografou.

It has been in continuous operation since its establishment in 1837 and is the oldest higher education institution of the modern Greek state and the first contemporary university in both the Balkan Peninsula and the Eastern Mediterranean. Today it is one of the largest universities by enrollment in Europe, with over 69,000 registered students.

At first the university was called Othonian University (Οθώνειον Πανεπιστήμιον) after Otto, King of Greece (Όθων Α΄ της Ελλάδας). A fresco depicts the king between the personification of sciences. 

The Academy of Athens

The Academy of Athens (Ακαδημία Αθηνών) is Greece’s national academy, and the highest research establishment in the country. It was established in 1926, with its founding principle tracing back to the historical Academy of Plato, and operates under the supervision of the Ministry of Education. The Academy’s main building is one of the major landmarks of Athens. 

The Academy is located on Panepistimiou Street. Conceived as part of an architectural trilogy alongside the University of Athens and the National Library, its design is attributed to Theophil Hansen. Funded by the magnate Simon Sinas, the building’s foundation was laid in 1859. Construction, supervised by Ernst Ziller, faced delays due to political unrest in the 1860s but was completed in 1885 at a cost of 2,843,319 gold drachmas.

The building’s exterior is adorned with exquisite sculptures. The central pediment, depicting the birth of Athena, is the work of Leonidas Drosis, winning acclaim at the 1873 Vienna Exhibition. 

Drosis also crafted the flanking figures of Athena and Apollo, while the seated statues of Plato and Socrates were executed by Italian sculptor Piccarelli. Austrian artist Christian Griepenkerl contributed to the interior with murals and paintings.

Changing of the Guards

We made made sure not to miss the Changing of the Guards. On Sundays at 11 AM, there’s a prolonged ceremony. The famous Evzones or Evzonoi (Εύζωνες, Εύζωνοι) are quite a sight.

The Evzones were a type of light infantry units in the Hellenic Army. Today, they are the members of the Presidential Guard (Προεδρική Φρουρά), a ceremonial unit that guards the Greek Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (Μνημείο του Άγνωστου Στρατιώτηi) and the Presidential Mansion in Athens. 

Evzones are known for their distinctive uniform, which evolved from the clothes worn by the klephts who fought the Ottoman occupation of Greece. The most visible item of this uniform is the fustanella, a kilt-like garment. Their distinctive dress turned them into a popular image for the Greek soldier, especially among foreigners. 

The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier is located in front of the Old Royal Palace (Παλαιά Ανάκτορα) which houses the Parliament of the Hellenes (Βουλή των Ελλήνων). And that parliament is located on Syntagma Square (Πλατεία Συντάγματος), which means Constitution Square. 

The Changing of the Guards is a popular event. It was jam-packed and police had to keep the public at bay. But I’ happy to have seen it.

After this walk through ‘revival Greece’, we walked towards the Acropolis.

Cathedral

First we encountered the Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens or Metropolitan Cathedral of the Annunciation (Καθεδρικός Ναός Ευαγγελισμού της Θεοτόκου). 

Construction of the cathedral began on Christmas Day 1842 with the laying of the cornerstone by King Otto and Queen Amalia. Construction started under the architect Theophil Hansen and was continued by Dimitris Zezos, Panagis Kalkos and François Boulanger. 

To the immediate south of the cathedral is the little Church of St. Eleftherios (Άγιος Ελευθέριος) also called the ‘Little Mitropoli‘.

Acropolis area

Finally, we arrived at the Pláka (Πλάκα). This is the old historical neighborhood of Athens, clustered around the northern and eastern slopes of the Acropolis, and incorporating labyrinthine streets and neoclassical architecture. 

Plaka is built on top of the residential areas of the ancient town of Athens. It is known as the ‘Neighborhood of the Gods‘ due to its proximity to the Acropolis and its many archaeological sites.

In the end, we did climb up until the entrance of the Acropolis, in search of a good photo. After that mission was accomplished, it was time to return to the hotel, retrieve my suitcase and go the airport.

So?

I’m glad we did more than just sit and drink tea or coffee. I’m also happy to have seen the Changing of the Guard. 

Athens 2023

1. REVIEW | Antwerp city centre to Brussels Airport (Zaventem) Airport Express shuttle bus service.
2. REVIEW | Brussels to Athens with Brussels Airlines Airbus A319, in business class, early morning.
3. ATHENS | Monastiraki – Plaka – Syntagma – National Garden – Zappeion – Hadrian’s Gate – Temple of Olympian Zeus – Panathenaic Stadium.
4. Ancient Agora of Athens.
5. REVIEW | Restaurant Kuzina in Athens.
6. REVIEW | Single room at Fresh Hotel Athens.
7. The Acropolis of Athens.
8. ATHENS | Acropolis Museum.
9. REVIEW | Michelin-star restaurant Hytra in Athens.
10. REVIEW | Aegean Business Lounge, Athens International Airport, Area B-Intra Schengen.
11. REVIEW | Athens to Brussels on Brussels Airlines’ Aerosmurf, business class, in the afternoon.
12. GREECE | Athens 2023.

2024 Athens – Mykonos – Istanbul – Kusadasi – Rhodes – Santorini – Athens Cruise on the Norwegian Getaway

1. Flying Airbus A320neo with Aegean Airlines from Brussels to Athens return.
2. REVIEW | Athenarum Portus Life & Style Hotel in Piraeus.
3. GREECE | A modest exploration of Piraeus.
4. NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE | Before you sail, online check-in and Embarkation Day.
5. GREECE | Mykonos ft Archaeological Museum, the Windmills and massive crowds.
6. NORWEGIAN GETAWAY | Balcony Stateroom with included access to the Thermal Spa.
7. ISTANBUL | Beylerbeyi Palace – Blue Mosque – Grand Bazaar.
8. NORWEGIAN GETAWAY | Activities – sports – entertainment – common areas.
9. ISTANBUL | Galataport – Sirkeci Railway Station – Hagia Sophia – Topkapi Park.
10. Bars & Lounges on Norwegian Getaway.
11. Ephesus.
12. Restaurants and food on Norwegian Getaway.
13. RHODES | Lindos and its acropolis.
14. Rhodes.
15. NORWEGIAN GETAWAY | Skipping Santorini to make it a Sea Day.
16. NORWEGIAN GETAWAY | Disembarkation Day.
17. Turkey welcomed 62 million international tourists who together spent $61 billion in 2024.
18. CRUISE REVIEW | 7 days on NCL’s Norwegian Getaway in the East Mediterranean Sea / Aegean Sea.