Autumn 2024. Ten years after my first trip to Seoul in 2014, I am returning to the Republic of Korea, better known as South Korea. Not solo this time, but with Oriol, who has never been to Korea. On the itinerary: flying with Qatar Airways to Incheon via Doha, the capital Seoul, the historic city of Gyeongju, Busan, Jeju Island and a second stint in Seoul, where we are joined by Sehyeon. We’re spending two weeks in South Korea. The ROK is such a popular destination now. Will we experience overtourism?  

As it was a Thursday and our last full night in Seoul, Oriol and I decided to go to a few gay bars. So it was time to go to Itaewon and Homo Hill.

But at around 7 PM, it was way too early for bars. Homo Hill was dead. So we first walked around Itaewon and had dinner. 

Itaewon

Itaewon is a multicultural neighborhood known for its international community, diverse dining scene, nightlife, and cultural attractions. Located in the Yongsan District and near the U.S. Army Garrison, Itaewon has long been a popular area for expatriates, tourists, and locals seeking a cosmopolitan experience. Its distinctive character sets it apart from other Seoul neighborhoods, with influences from various cultures reflected in its restaurants, shops, and events.

Itaewon is best known for its global food scene, offering a broad range of international cuisines, including American, Italian, Middle Eastern, African, Indian, and more. 

The neighborhood has numerous restaurants, cafés, and street food vendors, allowing visitors to sample dishes from around the world in one location. Itaewon’s nightlife is also a significant attraction, with numerous bars, pubs, and clubs that stay open late, making it a hotspot for evening outings and social gatherings. The nightlife is varied, with establishments catering to a wide array of tastes, from trendy lounges to live music venues and dance clubs.

Itaewon is also home to shopping and cultural sites. The area has many boutique stores, vintage shops, and independent designers, offering fashion-forward items and souvenirs. Itaewon’s streets are lined with both Korean and international brands, as well as art galleries and specialty shops that appeal to eclectic tastes. There’s also the Itaewon Antique Furniture Street, where visitors can find antiques, unique furniture pieces, and decorations from around the world.

Among Itaewon’s cultural landmarks is the Seoul Central Mosque, built in 1976, which serves as a spiritual and cultural center for Seoul’s Muslim community and a symbol of the neighborhood’s diversity. It’s located on a hillside and is open to visitors, providing an insight into Korea’s religious diversity. Additionally, Itaewon hosts events like the Itaewon Global Village Festival, a multicultural celebration featuring food, music, parades, and cultural performances from around the world.

Homo Hill

Homo Hill is filled with gay, queer and LGBTQIA+ bars, clubs, restaurants, cafes, and an inclusive, welcoming vibe, it’s a go-to spot for anyone looking to enjoy beer, conversation, people-watching, and dancing. 

Seoul’s gay scene is centered around two main areas, Jongno-3 and Homo Hill, with the latter drawing the largest crowds in Itaewon.

Homo Hill is famous for its popular gay bars, vibrant drag shows, and nearby saunas such as Hyundae Sauna and Equus Sauna. It has become an iconic location within Seoul’s LGBTQIA+ community, easily recognizable and conveniently located in a bustling neighborhood with a mix of local and international visitors. 

The street opens Thursday through Sunday and really comes to life after 1 AM Some must-visit venues include Queen, known for its young, energetic crowd and weekend festivities, and Soho, a long-time favorite on the strip. 

Other bars like Club Qubic and Why Not Bar also contribute to the Hill’s lively atmosphere, while nearby Itaewon hosts additional gay hotspots, including Club Pulse, GRAY Club, and Le Queen.

The music on Homo Hill spans international DJ mixes, popular global hits, and beloved K-pop tracks. The crowd is a mix of locals and international visitors from all over the world, drawn to the diverse, welcoming environment. Dress is casual and laid-back, with tank tops and shorts being a common choice among partygoers.

Where is Homo Hill? 

To get to Homo Hill, you can take a taxi and ask for Itaewon’s LGBTQ+ street, or take the subway to Itaewon Station (Line 6), Exit 3, and walk about five minutes from the station. Whether for the nightlife, the unique culture, or the welcoming community, Homo Hill has cemented its place as a must-see destination within Seoul.

Which street is Homo Hill?

The street name of Homo Hill is Usadan-ro 12-gil (우사단로12길). For some reason, the internet is very shy to share this information. 

Our evening at Homo Hill

So we were there on a Thursday and we were there way too early for crowds. Our first passage on the steep street was eerily quiet. After dinner, some bars were open. 

Eat Me seemed the most live at the time. We were not the only patrons, but it was quiet. We had one drink there. 

I’m guessing it was unusually calm. Too early? Coincidence? Wrong day? Perhaps. 

2014 – 2024

In 2014 I went into one bar, I forgot which. The bartender coupled me to a guy and it was an instant hit. He took my hand. I had been warned this was a sign of a guy being interested in me. I mentioned it to Sehyeon, who also likes/d to hold my hand (but not in public). So it’s still ‘a thing’.

And I decided to make hay so I brought him to my Airbnb and we… well you can imagine what happened next. 

Just to say: it’s not always that quiet. But who knows? This is ten years later. COVID-19 made a lot of victims in businesses. Gaybourhoods are disappearing. Gay bars are under threat as barhopping, clubbing and the need for queer spaces are changing. 

But I’m optimistic on a Friday and Saturday Homo Hill will be more lively. 

Gay adventures of the homosexual kind

• The best cities for gay cruising? London, Berlin, Paris, Madrid and Barcelona.
• QUEER KOREA | Beomil-ro, Busan’s gay street.
• GRAN CANARIA | 11 takeaways to enjoy Winter Pride Maspalomas to the fullest.
• The best cities to visit as a gay solo traveller.
• Gay Hong Kong.
• Heading for the sun in gay destination Torremolinos.
• QUEER ANDORRA | Entre Nous, the only gay bar in the village.
• Queer Iceland & Rainbow(baiting) Reykjavík.
• Manchester’s gaybourhood around Canal Street.
• Pride in Valladolid, Yucatán and queer encounters in Mexico.
• FLORIDA SOLO ROAD TRIP | Eye-opening encounters in Miami.
• FLORIDA SOLO ROAD TRIP | Fort Lauderdale.
• Drag queen bingo at Pride of our Footscray Community Bar.
• LGBTQ+ get-together on Majestic Princess.
• Gays failing at being gay? ‘LGBTQ Mix & Mingle’ on Royal Caribbean’s Serenade of the Seas lacked enthusiasm.
• Gay Tel Aviv: pinkwashing or genuine?.
• Gay Taipei with misterb&b.

South Korea 2024

1. QUESTION | Should you be scared of travelling to South Korea?.
2. REVIEW | Qatar Airways – economy – Boeing 787-8 Dreamliner – Brussels to Doha.
3. QATAR | Hamad International Airport (DOH) in Doha.
4. REVIEW | Qatar Airways – economy – Airbus A350 – Doha to Seoul / Incheon.
5. SOUTH KOREA | Landing at Incheon, retrieving the Wowpass and taking the AREX to Seoul Station.
6. REVIEW | Fraser Place Namdaemun Seoul near City Hall.
7. SEOUL | Deoksugung Palace by day.
8. SEOUL | Admiral Yi Sun-sin – King Sejong the Great – Gyeongbokgung Palace – National Folk Museum SEOUL | Admiral Yi Sun-sin – King Sejong the Great – Gyeongbokgung Palace – National Folk Museum.
9. SEOUL | Bukchon Hanok Village – Insadong Culture Street – Jogyesa Temple – Gwangjang Market – Cheonggyecheon Stream.
10. SEOUL 2024 | Dongdaemun Design Plaza.
11. SHOPPING IN SEOUL | Myeongdong – Lotte Young Plaza – Avenuel – Lotte Department Store.
12. SEOUL | Namsan Mountain Park and N Seoul Tower.
13. SOUTH KOREA | Seoul Station.
14. REVIEW | Korail KTX Seoul – Gyeongju – Busan.
15. GYEONGJU | Daereungwong – Cheonmachong – Cheomseongdae Observatory – Banwolseong Fortress – Anapji Pond – Woljeonggyo Bridge – Gyo-dong.
16. REVIEW | Hotel Palace in Gyeongju.
17. GYEONGJU | Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto.
18. GYEONGJU | Woljeonggyo Bridge – Gyeongju National Museum – Eupseong Fortress – Shopping.
19. REVIEW | Korail KTX Gyeongju to Busan 1st class.
20. BUSAN | Gamcheon Culture Village.
21. BUSAN | Jagalchi Fish Market.
22. REVIEW | Commodore Hotel Busan.
23. KOREA | Haedong Yonggung Temple in Busan.
24. BUSAN | Haedong Blue Line Park, Sky Capsules, Beach Train and Haeundae Green Railway.
25. BUSAN | Shinsegae Centum City Department Store, Gwangalli Beach, Busan Tower.
26. QUEER KOREA | Beomil-ro, Busan’s gay street.
27. SOUTH KOREA | Jin Air from Busan to Jeju.
28. SOUTH KOREA | Jeju City during Tamna Culture Festival.
29. REVIEW | Astar Hotel in Jeju City.
30. JEJU ISLAND | Hamdeok Beach – Seongsan Ilchilbong volcano – Ilchulland with lava tube – Wonang Waterfalls – Cheonjiyeon Waterfalls.
31. JEJU ISLAND | Sojeonbang & Jeonbang Waterfalls – Eongtto Waterfalls – Gaetkkak Jusangjeollidae Cliffs – Cheonjeyeon Waterfall & Seonim Bridge.
32. JEJU ISLAND | Museum of Sex and Health in Seogwipo.
33. JEJU ISLAND | Eongal Coastal Trail and Iho Tewoo Horse Lighthouses.
34. SOUTH KOREA | Jeju Island.
35. HOW TO | Hotel saunas in South Korea.
36. SOUTH KOREA | Flying Jin Air from Jeju City to Seoul Gimpo.
37. SEOUL | Changdeokgung – Secret Garden – Changgyeonggung.
38. SEOUL | Seodaemun Hongje Waterfall – Yeouido Hangang Park – Ttukseom Hangang Park – 2024 Seoul Hangang River Light Drone Light Show – Hwayang-dong.
39. SEOUL | Gangnam – Seonjeongneung Royal Tombs – Starfield COEX Mall & Library – Banpo Hangang Park – Some Sevit.