I turned 44 in June. I have this tradition – when possible – of not being in Belgium for my birthday. From Sweden in 2013 to the Châteaux of the Loire Valley in 2014, Lake Orta in 2015, Rome in 2016, London in 2018, North Carolina and Virginia in 2019, England in 2022, and Rotterdam in 2023. In June 2025, I headed to Copenhagen in Denmark with Steve.

So Steve and I were 2.5 days in Copenhagen. A full Friday, a Saturday and Sunday until the afternoon. Between the ‘major activities’ described the past nine weeks, we also just roamed the city.

Scroll down if you want to see our itinerary first. It’s after ‘Cuisine’.

Copenhagen

København, ‘Harbour of Commerce’, is the capital and most populous city of Denmark, with an urban population of approximately 1.4 million. Located on the islands of Zealand and Amager, it lies across the Øresund Strait from Malmö in Sweden. The two cities are linked by the Øresund Bridge, which carries both road and rail traffic.

The city originated as a Viking fishing settlement in the 10th century near what is now Gammel Strand. It became the capital of Denmark in the early 15th century. 

In the 16th century, Copenhagen served as the de facto capital of the Kalmar Union, which united Denmark, Norway, and Sweden under a single monarchy.

During the Renaissance, it developed as Scandinavia’s cultural and economic centre. By the 17th century, Copenhagen had become the administrative and military heart of the Danish kingdom.

The 18th century brought both adversity and transformation. A major outbreak of plague and several fires caused significant destruction. However, the city underwent substantial redevelopment, including the creation of the Frederiksstaden district and the foundation of key cultural institutions such as the Royal Theatre and the Royal Academy of Fine Arts. During this period, Copenhagen also played a central role in the Danish slave trade. In 1807, the city was bombarded by the British during the Napoleonic Wars. 

The following decades saw the rise of the Danish Golden Age, which left a lasting Neoclassical imprint on the city’s architecture. After World War II, the introduction of the Finger Plan guided the expansion of housing and commerce along five railway corridors radiating from the city centre.

In the 21st century, Copenhagen has experienced marked urban and cultural development, supported by investment in infrastructure and public institutions. Today, it functions as Denmark’s cultural, political, and economic hub and is one of Northern Europe‘s key financial centres, home to the Copenhagen Stock Exchange. 

Its economy has expanded significantly within the service sector, particularly in information technology, pharmaceuticals, and clean technology. Since the opening of the Øresund Bridge, Copenhagen has grown increasingly integrated with the Swedish region of Scania, especially with Malmö, forming the Øresund Region.

The city’s layout includes numerous parks, promenades, and waterfronts, with several bridges linking its districts.

Copenhagen is known for landmarks such as Tivoli Gardens, the Little Mermaid statue, Amalienborg Palace, Christiansborg Palace, Rosenborg Castle, Frederik’s Church, and Børsen. Its many museums, restaurants, and nightlife venues contribute to its appeal as a major tourist destination.

The city is home to several prominent universities, including the University of Copenhagen (founded in 1479), the Technical University of Denmark, Copenhagen Business School, and the IT University of Copenhagen. 

It also supports a strong sporting culture, with football clubs such as F.C. Copenhagen and Brøndby IF, and hosts the annual Copenhagen Marathon, first held in 1980. 

The city is recognised as one of the most bicycle-friendly in the world.

Copenhagen’s public transport is managed by Movia, which serves most of eastern Denmark excluding Bornholm. The Copenhagen Metro, inaugurated in 2002, operates across the central city, while the S-train, Lokaltog, and Coast Line provide rail connections to outlying suburbs and regions. 

Copenhagen Airport, located in Kastrup, is the busiest in the Nordic countries, serving around 2.5 million passengers each month.

Early history

Archaeological evidence suggests human settlement in the Copenhagen area dating back to the Stone Age, as demonstrated by substantial discoveries of flint tools. Although the precise date of the town’s foundation is uncertain, it is widely believed to have originated during the late Viking Age, possibly under the rule of Sweyn I Forkbeard.

Material evidence points to a growing settlement from at least the 11th century, attracted by the area’s natural harbour and abundant herring stocks. While fishermen and merchants likely visited the area seasonally in the early period, permanent settlement began to take shape by the 13th century. The earliest dwellings were probably located around Gammel Strand, and archaeological excavations near Kongens Nytorv during construction of the city’s metro revealed the foundations of a large merchant’s house dating to around 1020. In addition, remains of an 11th-century church and graves were discovered near the junction of Strøget and Rådhuspladsen, while a well from the late 12th century was unearthed at Pilestræde.

The first written reference to the town appears in the 12th century in Saxo Grammaticus’ ‘Gesta Danorum‘, where it is referred to as Portus Mercatorum—‘Merchants’ Harbour’—or Købmannahavn in contemporary Danish. 

The traditional founding date of Copenhagen is 1167, when Bishop Absalon built a small fortress on the island of Slotsholmen, the present site of Christiansborg Palace. This fortification was constructed to defend against Wendish pirates who posed a persistent threat along the Danish coast. 

Defensive walls and moats were completed, and by 1177 a church dedicated to St. Clement had been erected. After the original fortress was destroyed during renewed attacks, it was replaced by a stronger structure known as Copenhagen Castle.

Middle Ages

A letter from Pope Urban III in 1186 confirms that King Valdemar I granted Absalon possession of the castle and surrounding lands, including the town of Hafn (Copenhagen). Upon Absalon’s death, the property passed to the Bishopric of Roskilde. Around 1200, the Church of Our Lady was built on higher ground to the town’s northeast, forming a new focal point for its development.

The town grew in importance but was subject to repeated attacks by the Hanseatic League, which successfully captured it in 1368 during the Second Danish-Hanseatic War. The herring trade continued to flourish, encouraging further expansion north of Slotsholmen. 

In 1254, Copenhagen was granted city status under Bishop Jakob Erlandsen, who secured the support of local merchants by offering them special privileges. The city’s first land assessment was produced in the 1330s.

Copenhagen became the capital of Denmark around 1416, when King Eric of Pomerania moved his court to Copenhagen Castle following the establishment of the Kalmar Union. The University of Copenhagen was founded by King Christian I on 1 June 1479, with papal approval from Pope Sixtus IV. Initially a Catholic institution, the university underwent significant changes during the Reformation in the late 1530s.

16th and 17th centuries

During the early Reformation, the city supported the deposed Catholic king Christian II. In 1523, forces loyal to the Lutheran Frederik I besieged and captured Copenhagen. 

A subsequent siege from July 1535 to July 1536 saw the city, allied with Malmö and Lübeck, capitulate to Christian III. In the decades that followed, the city benefitted from increased trade across the Baltic Sea, aided by Dutch shipping. Christoffer Valkendorff, a prominent statesman, championed the city’s interests and supported its economic growth.

King Christian IV

Under King Christian IV (1588–1648), Copenhagen underwent significant development. The Tøjhus Arsenal and Børsen (the stock exchange) were completed on Slotsholmen. 

In 1616, the East India Company was founded to promote international trade. Inspired by Dutch urban planning, the king established the district of Christianshavn, originally conceived as a fortified trading hub but later integrated into the city. Christian IV also commissioned numerous architectural projects, including Rosenborg Castle and the Round Tower (Rundetårn). The city successfully resisted a major Swedish siege in 1658–1659 under Charles X.

By 1661, Copenhagen was firmly established as the capital of Denmark and Norway. It housed the royal court, military headquarters, and key administrative institutions. The city’s fortifications were further expanded with the construction of the Citadel (Kastellet) in 1664 and the extension of the Christianshavn ramparts in 1692, culminating in a new naval base at Nyholm.

18th century

Copenhagen suffered significant losses in the 18th century. The plague of 1711 killed approximately 22,000 residents, over a third of the population. Two major fires, particularly that of 1728, devastated large parts of the city. 

The 1728 fire destroyed nearly half of medieval Copenhagen and left around 20% of its inhabitants homeless. A second fire in 1795 caused further damage, accounting for the limited number of surviving medieval structures today.

Reconstruction efforts followed both disasters. In 1733, work began on Christiansborg Palace, completed in 1745. The prestigious Frederiksstaden district, designed in the Rococo style by Nicolai Eigtved, was initiated in 1749. 

It included the mansions that now comprise Amalienborg Palace. The city’s cultural standing increased with the establishment of the Royal Theatre and the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, and the naval base at Holmen underwent major expansion.

Copenhagen also played a central role in the Danish slave trade. Between 1660 and 1806, Danish merchants—mainly operating from the capital—transported around 120,000 enslaved Africans to the Danish West Indies. 

Many were affiliated with the Danish West India and Asiatic companies. Profits from the trade financed prominent buildings such as the Moltke Mansion and the Yellow Palace.

Denmark’s neutrality during European conflicts in the latter half of the 18th century allowed Copenhagen to flourish as a centre of Baltic trade. Following the fires of 1794 and 1795, a classical rebuilding effort began, including the creation of Højbro Plads and the redevelopment of Nytorv and Gammel Torv.

19th century

Fears that Denmark might ally with Napoleonic France prompted British naval intervention. On 2 April 1801, Admiral Sir Hyde Parker’s fleet engaged the Dano-Norwegian navy near Copenhagen in a battle led by Vice-Admiral Horatio Nelson. The encounter, considered one of Nelson’s most difficult, resulted in British victory and Danish agreement not to join France.

In 1807, a second British attack under Admiral James Gambier sought to pre-empt any Franco-Danish alliance. After Danish refusal to surrender its fleet, British forces bombarded Copenhagen from 2 to 5 September, using Congreve rockets. 

The attack killed nearly 200 civilians, injured hundreds more, and destroyed significant infrastructure, including the Church of Our Lady. A subsequent British occupation resulted in the capture or destruction of the Dano-Norwegian fleet. This led to the Gunboat War, which continued until the Treaty of Kiel in 1814.

Despite wartime hardship, Copenhagen entered a period of cultural and artistic flourishing, known as the Danish Golden Age. The city’s architecture was shaped by neoclassical figures such as C.F. Hansen and Gottlieb Bindesbøll, while painters like C.W. Eckersberg led a new wave in the visual arts.

In the 1850s, the old ramparts were opened to allow urban expansion around the city’s lakes. As industrialisation progressed, working-class districts such as Nørrebro and Vesterbro grew rapidly. 

Sanitation concerns and housing shortages prompted further urban development. The Freeport of Copenhagen was established between 1892 and 1894, and electric lighting and trams were introduced. The city’s population expanded from 120,000 in 1840 to over 400,000 by 1901.

20th century

By the early 20th century, Copenhagen was a modern administrative and industrial centre. The construction of a new city hall and railway station shifted the city’s focal point westward. Neighbourhoods such as Valby and Brønshøj grew, and Frederiksberg became an enclave within the city. Amager and Valby were incorporated into Copenhagen between 1901 and 1902.

Denmark’s neutrality during World War I allowed Copenhagen to benefit from trade with both the United Kingdom and Germany, though its defences remained fully manned throughout. The post-war years saw severe shortages and efforts to eliminate slum housing, particularly in Christianshavn. Large-scale housing projects began in the 1930s.

During World War II, Copenhagen was occupied by German forces from 9 April 1940 to 4 May 1945. 

Initially, the occupation was relatively mild, with democratic elections held in 1943, though the Communist Party was banned. After the Danish government ceased cooperating with the Nazis in August 1943, the Royal Danish Navy scuttled its own ships to prevent their capture, and most of Denmark’s Jewish population managed to escape to Sweden.

In 1945, the British Royal Air Force carried out ‘Operation Carthage‘, a targeted bombing of the Gestapo headquarters in Copenhagen. Although the raid destroyed Nazi records and enabled the escape of several political prisoners, a mistaken bombing of a nearby school killed 123 civilians, including 87 children.

On 8 May 1945, Copenhagen was officially liberated by British troops under Field Marshal Bernard Montgomery.

Post-war period and beyond

Following the war, urban development was guided by the 1947 Finger Plan, promoting growth along railway corridors interspersed with green spaces. With the expansion of the welfare state and rising female participation in the workforce, new schools, nurseries, sports facilities and hospitals were established. 

In 1971, Freetown Christiania was founded in Christianshavn on the site of former military barracks, following student and activist occupations.

The city phased out its tram system in 1972, replacing it with buses. From the 1960s, pedestrian zones and cycle lanes were introduced, largely due to the work of architect Jan Gehl. 

As industrial activity declined, especially after the closure of the Holmen Naval Base, Copenhagen Airport expanded and became a major Nordic hub. New residential developments were constructed in the harbour area and western Amager, and in 1999 the Black Diamond extension of the Royal Library was completed.

21st century

In 2000, the Øresund Bridge linked Copenhagen with Malmö in Sweden, creating a binational metropolitan area. The bridge significantly reshaped regional transport and spurred redevelopment, especially on Amager. 

Copenhagen’s service and finance sectors expanded, and the city’s universities, particularly the University of Copenhagen, grew in importance.

Copenhagen now: beaches

Copenhagen offers a variety of beaches within close proximity to the city centre. Amager Strandpark, inaugurated in 2005, is a 2-kilometre-long artificial island featuring a total of 4.6 kilometres of beaches. It is situated approximately 15 minutes away from the city centre by bicycle or only a few minutes by metro. The park provides a wide stretch of sand, dunes, and recreational facilities along the Øresund coast.

Approximately 10 kilometres north of central Copenhagen lies Bellevue Beach in Klampenborg. Measuring around 700 metres in length, it is a well-maintained beach equipped with lifeguards and freshwater showers. The beach forms part of a larger coastal area designed by the renowned Danish architect Arne Jacobsen.

In addition to these coastal beaches, Copenhagen has developed a series of Harbour Baths located along its inner waterfront. These public swimming areas allow safe bathing within the harbour itself. The first and most well-known of these is at Islands Brygge. 

Since its opening, the facility has received international recognition for its innovative design and has become a popular summer destination for both locals and visitors. Another harbour swimming area is Kalvebod Bølge, located across the water from Islands Brygge, providing a similar urban beach experience within walking distance of the city centre.

Quality of living

Copenhagen has consistently ranked highly in international assessments of quality of life. 

The city’s stable economy, comprehensive education system, and strong social safety net contribute to its appeal for both residents and visitors. While it is among the most expensive cities in the world, it is also regarded as one of the most liveable, with well-developed public transport, extensive cycling infrastructure, and progressive environmental policies.

In 2013, Monocle named Copenhagen the world’s most liveable city, highlighting its open spaces, vibrant street life, pedestrian- and cyclist-friendly urban planning, and its emphasis on community, culture, and cuisine. 

In 2024, the Economist Intelligence Unit ranked Copenhagen as the second most liveable city in the world. Other international rankings have praised the city for its business environment, accessibility, dining scene, and environmental planning.

However, Copenhagen’s performance in student-related rankings has been less favourable. In 2012, it placed 39th for student friendliness. Although it received high marks for quality of living, it scored lower in areas such as employer activity and affordability.

Tourism

Since 2009, Copenhagen has been among the fastest-growing metropolitan destinations in Europe. The city’s hotel capacity has expanded considerably, and between 2009 and 2013, international bed nights increased by 42%, including a rise of nearly 70% in visits from China. In 2013, the total number of bed nights in the Capital Region exceeded 9 million, with 5 million accounted for by international visitors.

City break tourism generated an estimated turnover of DKK 2 billion in 2010, a year marked by a 29% increase compared to the previous year. In 2015, Copenhagen received 680,000 cruise passengers. 

The city was ranked first in Lonely Planet’s list of top ten cities to visit in 2019. In October 2021, Copenhagen was shortlisted by the European Commission for the 2022 European Capital of Smart Tourism award, alongside cities such as Bordeaux, Dublin, Florence, Ljubljana, Palma de Mallorca and Valencia.

Cityscape

Copenhagen’s cityscape reflects its historical importance as a regional centre, with a variety of districts and architectural styles. `

The city combines water features, public parks, and a widespread cycling infrastructure. Its medieval core, known as Middelalderbyen, is complemented by Frederiksstaden, developed under Frederick V, featuring the Amalienborg Palace and Frederik’s Church. 

Slotsholmen, home to Christiansborg Palace, and Christianshavn with its canals, are central features. Surrounding districts such as Vesterbro and Nørrebro were developed in the late 19th century after the removal of the city’s fortifications.

Known as the ‘City of Spires‘, Copenhagen’s skyline is marked by towers and church spires rather than high-rises. Notable examples include the spiral spire of the Church of Our Saviour and the dragon spire of the former stock exchange.

Copenhagen is internationally recognised for its urban planning, with a focus on walkability, mixed-use development, and high-quality public spaces. Since the early 2000s, modern architecture has flourished, attracting global architects and contributing to the city’s evolving built environment, especially in newly developed areas like Ørestad.

Industrialisation shaped the city’s early 20th-century expansion, while post-war planning focused on car infrastructure and zoning. In recent decades, planning has shifted to sustainable, human-scale design. The city has restricted high-rise development in the historic core while encouraging modern growth in peripheral districts.

Copenhagen is rich in green spaces, including the King’s Garden (Kongens Have) near Rosenborg Castle and the Botanical Gardens. 

Fælledparken is the largest park, hosting sports events and concerts. 

Other green areas include Kastellet, a former military site, and Frederiksberg Gardens, which borders the Copenhagen Zoo. Cemeteries like Assistens and Vestre Kirkegaard also serve as quiet, park-like spaces. 

Municipal policy ensures all residents are within a 15-minute walk of a park or beach, with new spaces such as Superkilen helping to meet this goal.

Landmarks by district

Copenhagen’s central district, Indre By, contains many of the city’s most iconic sights. Frederiksstaden, developed under Frederik V in the Rococo style, features the royal residence of Amalienborg and the Marble Church. 

Across the harbour, the modern Copenhagen Opera House stands on Holmen. Nearby, Nyhavn’s 17th- and 18th-century houses line a lively canal leading to Kongens Nytorv, a square hosting the Royal Danish Theatre and Charlottenborg Palace. 

Christiansborg Palace, City Hall, and the historic Rundetårn are also located here. 

Strøget, a pedestrian street, connects key squares and is home to shops and street performers. Rosenborg Castle, built by Christian IV, contains the Danish crown jewels.

To the southeast lies Christianshavn, developed in the 17th century by Christian IV with canals inspired by Amsterdam. It includes the alternative community of Christiania, known for its self-governance and open cannabis trade. The Church of Our Saviour with its spiral spire and the North Atlantic House, featuring culture from Greenland and Iceland, are notable here.

Vesterbro, southwest of Indre By, begins with Tivoli Gardens and includes cultural venues like the Tycho Brahe Planetarium and Øksnehallen. 

The Carlsberg neighbourhood features remnants of the old brewery. Vesterbro is also home to Det Ny Teater and the iconic Radisson Blu Royal Hotel designed by Arne Jacobsen.

Nørrebro, once a working-class area, is now a diverse and vibrant neighbourhood. Key locations include Sankt Hans Torv and the Assistens Cemetery, the final resting place of Hans Christan Andersen, Søren Kierkegaard, and Niels Henrik David Bohr, which also serves as a park.

North of the centre, Østerbro is a residential district with embassies and the famous Little Mermaid statue by Edvard Eriksen. Nearby, the star-shaped Citadel (Kastellet) and the Gefion Fountain mark the waterfront.

Frederiksberg is an independent municipality with Frederiksberg Palace, now a military academy, and Frederiksberg Gardens. It also houses Copenhagen Zoo and several active theatres like the Betty Nansen Theatre.

Amagerbro, just southeast of Christianshavn, is marked by its main thoroughfare, Amagerbrogade, lined with shops and restaurants. Developed in the early 20th century, it leads south into Sundbyøster and Sundbyvester.

Beyond the central area, The Blue Planet aquarium, near Copenhagen Airport, is the largest in Scandinavia. In Bispebjerg, Grundtvig’s Church is a rare example of Expressionist ecclesiastical architecture.

Culture and the arts

Copenhagen has grown into a major cultural centre, particularly since the late 1990s, thanks to investments in infrastructure, design, and the culinary arts. 

Events like Copenhagen Fashion Week and the city’s design and architecture scene contribute to its international reputation.

Museums

The National Museum covers Danish and global cultural history, while the Statens Museum for Kunst houses works from the 12th century to today. The Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek is known for its classical sculptures and paintings by Impressionist masters. 

Other significant museums include the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, the Design Museum Denmark, Thorvaldsen’s Museum, Cisternerne, and Ordrupgaard.

Stage venues

The Copenhagen Concert Hall, designed by Jean Nouvel, and the Copenhagen Opera House, designed by Henning Larsen, are leading venues for classical music. 

Tivoli also hosts performances, while the Royal Danish Theatre and Royal Danish Ballet maintain long-standing traditions. Copenhagen has a storied jazz heritage, celebrated each July during the Copenhagen Jazz Festival, attracting over 200,000 attendees.

For popular music, Vega in Vesterbro is the premier venue. Alternative and experimental music is featured at the Festival of Endless Gratitude. Public spaces like Strøget serve as informal stages for street performance.

Literature and libraries

Copenhagen is the publishing capital of Denmark and was home to literary figures such as Hans Christian Andersen, Søren Kierkegaard, and Ludvig Holberg. 

The Royal Library holds nearly every Danish book printed since the 15th century and operates multiple locations, with the main site on Slotsholmen.

Visual arts

Copenhagen’s art scene includes prominent museums and galleries such as the Hirschsprung Collection, Kunsthal Charlottenborg, Den Frie Udstilling, and Arken Museum of Modern Art. 

Artists like Martinus Rørbye and Christen Købke have depicted the city in their work. Public sculptures include The Little Mermaid, equestrian statues of Frederik V and Christian V, and statues in Rosenborg Castle Gardens.

The city is also credited with inventing the photomarathon, an annual photography competition begun in 1989.

Cuisine

As of 2014, Copenhagen boasted 15 Michelin-starred restaurants. These include Noma, renowned for reinventing Nordic cuisine, and Geranium, which holds three Michelin stars. Other notable establishments include Formel B, Relæ, and Kiin Kiin. 

The city has become a global destination for culinary innovation.

Our itinerary: day 1: Station, Tivoli, Glyptotek, Rosenborg, Little Mermaid, Paté Paté, Nyhavn

We started off walking to the Glyptotek, but not without a detour to Copenhagen Central Station or Københavns Hovedbanegård. Noblesse oblige. 

Copenhagen Central Station is the principal railway station in Denmark’s capital and serves as a major transport hub for the entire country. Located between the districts of Vesterbro and Indre By, it sits just opposite the Tivoli Gardens and within walking distance of key city landmarks. 

Operated by the Danish State Railways (Danske Statsbaner, DSB), the station handles both domestic and international train services, making it a central node in the Scandinavian rail network. It also connects with the city’s suburban S-train system, Copenhagen Metro, and various bus lines.

Architecture and facilities

The current station building, the third iteration on the site, was inaugurated in 1911 and designed by Danish architect Heinrich Wenck. 

It features a National Romantic style with elements inspired by medieval architecture, incorporating red brick façades, granite detailing, and large arched windows. 

The interior includes a spacious main concourse with wooden roofing and ironwork, combining historic charm with modern function. The station has seven platforms and thirteen tracks and offers a wide range of facilities including shops, cafés, ticket offices, and luggage services.

Tivioli Gardens

Tivoli Gardens is a historic amusement park and pleasure garden located in the heart of Copenhagen. Opened on 15 August 1843, it is the third-oldest operating amusement park in the world, following Dyrehavsbakken, also in Denmark, and Wurstelprater in Austria. 

Tivoli was founded by Georg Carstensen, who obtained permission from King Christian VIII to create a park that would provide entertainment and recreation for the city’s residents. Situated near Copenhagen Central Station and City Hall Square, Tivoli has become one of Denmark’s most iconic tourist attractions.

The park combines lush gardens, performance venues, and amusement rides in a romantic and often whimsical setting. Its architectural style draws inspiration from oriental and exotic themes, as was popular in 19th-century Europe. Tivoli’s aesthetic appeal has long contributed to its charm, with beautifully landscaped flower beds, fairy lights, and pavilions creating a festive atmosphere. The lake, fountains, and seasonal decorations further enhance its appeal, particularly during Christmas and Halloween.

Entertainment and attractions

Tivoli Gardens offers a wide range of entertainment, from roller coasters and carousels to concerts, ballet, and theatre performances. One of its most famous rides is the wooden roller coaster Rutschebanen, which dates back to 1914 and is still in operation. The park also features the Dæmonen, a modern steel roller coaster with loops and inversions. Alongside its mechanical attractions, Tivoli hosts open-air concerts and cultural events, with the Tivoli Boys Guard and the park’s own symphony orchestra contributing to its musical tradition.

Legacy and influence

Tivoli has played a significant role in Copenhagen’s cultural life and has influenced other amusement parks, including Disneyland. Walt Disney himself visited Tivoli and cited it as an inspiration. 

Despite its age, the park continues to evolve, incorporating new technologies and attractions while preserving its historical character. Tivoli remains a beloved destination for both locals and tourists, offering a blend of nostalgia, fantasy, and modern-day amusement in the centre of the Danish capital.

Glyptotek, Rosenborg and the Little Mermaid

We then visited the Glyptotek and Rosenborg Castle. Afterwards we walked to the Little Mermaid. 

Paté Paté

We had dinner at Paté Paté, in the bougie area of Vesterbro. The concept is small portions to share or not. There is a set menu, but as Steve says no to a few parts of animals, we didn’t order the set menu. 

I’m only a lukewarm fan of sharing and small portions – “choose four” – as I always end up picking dishes who don’t match or are too similar to each other.

But the food was nice and the vibes are fun. 

Nyhavn

Our hotel, the Scandic Front, is located near Nyhavn. So we passed this famous area often.

Nyhavn is a historic waterfront district in central Copenhagen, stretching from Kongens Nytorv to the harbour front near the Royal Playhouse. 

Originally constructed in the 17th century as a gateway from the sea to the inner city, Nyhavn served as a busy commercial port where ships from around the world would dock. 

The area was lined with warehouses, taverns, and merchant houses, becoming a lively hub for sailors, traders, and locals. Over time, it has transformed from a working harbour into one of Copenhagen’s most recognisable and picturesque quarters.

The district is renowned for its colourful townhouses, many of which date back to the 17th and 18th centuries. These buildings, often narrow and several storeys high, now host cafés, restaurants, and bars, contributing to Nyhavn’s vibrant atmosphere. 

The canal itself, which was excavated by Swedish prisoners of war under Danish command, remains central to the area’s charm. Traditional wooden ships, many preserved as heritage vessels, still line the quay, reinforcing the area’s maritime character.

Today, Nyhavn functions primarily as a leisure and tourist area, with outdoor seating along the water, seasonal markets, and frequent cultural events. 

Although the harbour no longer serves commercial shipping, its heritage has been carefully preserved through restoration efforts and protective regulation.

Day 2: Amalienborg, Round Tower, Museum of Copenhagen, City Hall, Centralhjørnet, Marv & Ben

On day 2, we visited Amalienborg Palace, the Rundetårn and the Museum of Copenhagen.

But we also saw other landmarks.

Copenhagen City Hall

Copenhagen City Hall (Københavns Rådhus) serves as the headquarters of the municipal council and the Lord Mayor of the City of Copenhagen. Located on City Hall Square (Rådhuspladsen) in the heart of the capital, it is one of the city’s most prominent civic buildings. 

Completed in 1905, the current structure replaced an earlier city hall from the 18th century, which had become inadequate for the growing administrative needs of the city.

The building was designed by architect Martin Nyrop and constructed in the National Romantic style, drawing significant inspiration from medieval Danish architecture as well as the city hall of Siena in Italy. Its façade is made of red brick with intricate detailing, a gilded statue of Absalon—the city’s legendary founder—above the main balcony, and a large clock tower that rises to 105.6 metres, making it one of the tallest buildings in Copenhagen. The interior features grand halls and ornate decorations that reflect Danish craftsmanship and civic pride.

One of its most notable features is Jens Olsen’s World Clock, a highly complex astronomical clock located inside the building, which was inaugurated in 1955 after decades of planning and construction. The city hall also serves as a venue for public events, weddings, exhibitions, and guided tours, attracting both locals and visitors.

Centralhjørnet

We had an Aperol Spritz – or two – at Centralhjørnet (Central Corner). The gay bar, located at Kattesundet 18 in Copenhagen’s city centre, holds the distinction of being Denmark’s—and reportedly the world’s—oldest continuously operating gay bar. Established in 1917, this historic venue has cultivated a warm, inclusive atmosphere over more than a century of operation

It warmly welcomes all visitors, regardless of orientation, and regularly hosts drag performances, live music, and jazz sessions—particularly on Thursday and Sunday evenings between October and April.

Centralhjørnet maintains a relaxed and inclusive vibe. Many patrons bring sandwiches from nearby eateries to enjoy within its friendly social setting

Centralhjørnet plays a vital role in Copenhagen’s LGBTQIA+ scene. It is celebrated not only for its significant historical legacy but also for its ongoing commitment to diversity and community. The bar blends a traditional pub-style layout with vibrant cultural programming, offering a unique insight into the city’s social and historical fabric.

Marv & Ben

We ended the day at Restaurant Marv & Ben.

Day 3: Thorvaldsen’s Museum, Christianshavn, Opera House, Kastellet

After visiting Thorvaldsen’s Museum, we decided to cross the Inderhavnsbroen or Inner Harbour Bridge to Christianshavn. We saw Broen, a hotspot for high-end food trucks. 

But we were there for the Copenhagen Opera House. The Operaen stands as Denmark’s national opera house on Holmen, an island in Copenhagen’s Inner Harbour. Opened on 15 January 2005, the building was a gift from the A.P. Møller and Chastine Mc‑Kinney Møller Foundation and designed by esteemed architect Henning Larsen.

Its location directly across from Amalienborg Palace aligns it visually with the Marble Church, creating a striking dialogue between classical architecture and modern design.

Its main auditorium accommodates between 1,492 and 1,703 patrons, depending on orchestra configuration, and features one of the largest orchestra pits in the world, capable of seating 110 musicians

The house is equipped with six stages, including the main auditorium and five backstage preparation stages that support large-scale productions

Attached to the main complex is Takkelloftet, a flexible ‘black box’ theatre of around 200 seats intended for experimental performances, which features Jura Gelb limestone that can double as percussion surfaces.

Administered by the Royal Danish Theatre, the Opera House regularly hosts opera, ballet and symphonic concerts performed by the Royal Danish Orchestra.

Kastellet

Our last excursion brought us to the Kastellet. Also known as Citadellet Frederikshavn, the Kastellet is a star-shaped citadel nestled between Copenhagen’s Østerbro district and the harbour. Established in the 17th century, it remains one of the best-preserved fortresses in Northern Europe. 

The site continues to serve a dual function: while it houses active military offices for the Danish Defence Ministry, it also welcomes the public as a historic park and cultural landmark.

The origins of Kastellet trace back to King Christian IV, who in 1626 began constructing St. Anne’s Redoubt to protect Copenhagen’s northern harbour entrance. 

The structure was expanded under King Frederik III and redesigned as a full citadel between 1662 and 1665 by Dutch engineer Henrik Rüse. It was originally named Citadellet Frederikshavn and was integrated into Copenhagen’s wider defensive system but is today largely intact solely around its bastioned star outline.

Kastellet features five bastions—King’s, Queen’s, Count’s, Princess’s, and Prince’s—and is encircled by concentric moats and defensive outworks known as the Blacksmith’s Line. It retains two principal gateways dating back to around 1663: the ornate King’s Gate facing the city and the simpler Norway Gate to the north, each flanked by guardhouses and defensive structures. 

Within the ramparts are several heritage structures, such as the baroque Citadel Church (1704), a historic windmill on King’s Bastion dating from 1847, former barracks still in military use, and a small prison. 

The hilltop windmill, the last of several that once stood on Copenhagen’s fortifications, is a working example of its kind. 

Kastellet has been open to the public while still hosting military units, including the Home Guard and Defence Intelligence, and serving as offices.

Its ramparts are a beloved promenade for walkers, joggers, and nature enthusiasts, offering expansive views over the harbour, nearby Gefion Fountain, and Langelinie. Visitors can witness a daily changing-of-the-guard ceremony, attend summer concerts on the parade grounds, and explore two small on-site museums .

Its architecture and historic fabric harken back to Copenhagen’s military past, while its green spaces cater to contemporary recreational life. Overlooking Churchill Park—with its monuments celebrating liberation and wartime history—it stands as a testament to the city’s evolving identity throughout centuries .

Anecdotical: two red lights for pedestrians

In Copenhagen, double red lights at pedestrian crossings typically indicate that the crossing is managed in two phases. This system is commonly used on wider roads that feature a central refuge or island for pedestrians. The purpose is to regulate foot traffic safely and efficiently by dividing the crossing into two segments, each with its own traffic signal.

The two-phase setup means that the pedestrian crossing is split into two distinct parts. The lights on each segment—those closest to the pedestrian and those further away—operate on separate timing cycles. For example, the light nearest to you may show red, instructing you to wait, while the light on the far side of the central refuge could still be green. This arrangement ensures that pedestrians only cross each segment when it is safe to do so.

While the system enhances safety, it can sometimes cause confusion for those unfamiliar with it. Pedestrians might assume that a red light means the entire crossing is off-limits, even if part of it remains open.

Nonetheless, the phased approach helps manage crossings more effectively, particularly in busy areas with wider roads, by allowing each section to be controlled independently. Ultimately, the use of double red lights reflects a careful effort to balance pedestrian flow with road safety in complex urban environments.

2.5 days in Copenhagen

That’s it. Two and half days gave the opportunity to get a decent taste of Copenhagen. There are other sights and activities, for sure. But our hunger is stilled. 

Copenhagen is only just over an hour flying from Brussels. The food is great, the people are nice enough. Copenhageners are stylish and often handsome. 

Styling-wise, a white top, a T-shirt or a shirt, was the norm. Underneath blue or beige bottoms. 

In Seoul black was the norm and “everyone dressed the same”. Not really, but you sense there’s a standard, an expectation, a common taste. I felt the same with Copenhagen.

I had a great weekend, helped by very good weather. I see my self returning.

Copenhagen 2025

1. HOTEL REVIEW | Scandic Front in Copenhagen.
2. COPENHAGEN | Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek.
3. COPENHAGEN | Rosenborg Castle ft Danish Crown Regalia, Coronation Chair of Denmark and Kongens Have park.
4. COPENHAGEN | Gefion Fountain – Little Mermaid – Langelinie.
5. COPENHAGEN | Amalienborg Museum.
6. COPENHAGEN | Rundetårn or Round Tower.
7. DENMARK | The Museum of Copenhagen.
8. REVIEW | Restaurant Marv & Ben in Copenhagen.
9. COPENHAGEN | Thorvaldsen’s Museum.