August 2025. We’re travelling to the Baltic States: Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania, and more specifically their respective capitals Tallinn, Riga and Vilnius. Are they interconnected by rail? Yes, but not in the most straightforward or userfriendly way possible. The Rail Baltica project should remedy this. Unsurprisingly though, this megaproject faces political and budgetary hurdles. It will most likely not be ready by 2030. But that doesn’t stop us. What to expect from the Baltics? Is it affected by  overtourism? 

We spent a day in Tallinn. As you may have read earlier, we had a well-filled day. We started off with the Linnahall and Lennusadam or Seaplane Harbour, part of the Estonian Maritime Museum. We then visited the Estonian History Museum and the Vabamu Museum of Occupations and Freedom.

We also ate, obviously. For lunch, we had bear meat and other meats dumplings at Troika, a Russian restaurant in sight of Tallinn Town Hall. 

For dinner, we headed to Rataskaevu 16. The name is the address and the address is the name. I’m glad we booked a table in advance. We saw many people walked in and turned away. Especially groups of six or more. I don’t get people who think they can walk in with a party of six. This is 2025 (2026 when this blogpost is published. 

Introducing Tallinn

Tallinn is the capital and most populous city of Estonia, located on the northern coast of the country along the Gulf of Finland. Its roots extend back some five millennia, with archaeological evidence indicating the presence of a hunter-fisherman community in what is now the city’s centre dating to approximately 3000 BCE, and cord-decorated pottery from around 2500 BCE.

A fortress was established on the Toompea hill around 1050 AD. In 1219 the Danish king Valdemar II conquered the area, and in the mid-13th century the city—then widely known as Reval—was granted Lübeck city rights (1248) and joined the Hanseatic League in 1285, becoming a significant medieval port and trade hub.

Tallinn’s Old Town remains one of Europe’s most well-preserved medieval centres, its layout largely intact from the 13th century. It has been recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997.

Over the centuries, Tallinn passed through the hands of Danish, Swedish and Russian rulers. It became part of Sweden in the mid-16th century and later was absorbed into the Russian Empire following the Great Northern War in the early 18th century.

The city has weathered turbulent times: Soviet occupation, Nazi control, devastating bombings—most notably on 9–10 March 1944, which inflicted heavy damage and left many thousands homeless—followed by renewed Soviet rule after World War II.

Estonia regained its independence in 1991, and Tallinn has since emerged as a dynamic European capital, completing its transition to democracy and modernity.

Tallinn today

Tallinn today is Estonia’s primary political, financial, cultural and educational hub. 

It has garnered an international reputation as a ‘Silicon Valley of Europe‘, boasting the highest number of startups per capita in Europe, and is the birthplace of globally recognised technology firms such as Skype and Wise (formerly TransferWise). 

It also hosts the headquarters of the European Union’s IT agency and the NATO Cyber Defence Centre of Excellence, and has featured among the world’s leading digital cities.

The historic Old Town, with its cobbled streets, medieval churches—including St. Mary’s Cathedral and the Town Hall—and preserved city walls, sits in stark contrast to the city’s modern areas, such as the sleek glass towers of the business district, revitalised industrial quarters like the Rotermann Quarter, and vibrant suburban districts such as Kadriorg and Kalamaja.

Tallinn has earned additional accolades in recent years, including serving as a European Capital of Culture in 2011 and receiving the European Green Capital Award in 2023. 

The city has committed to reducing greenhouse gas emissions by 40% by 2030, though critics have questioned the durability of the programmes underpinning the award.

That, in essence, is Tallinn: a city where medieval heritage and cutting-edge innovation coexist seamlessly, shaped by a complex history and currently playing a pivotal role in both European culture and digital enterprise.

What is there to see and do?

Tallinn offers a striking blend of medieval charm, contemporary culture, and natural beauty, providing a wide range of activities and attractions for visitors. The city is compact and highly walkable, making exploration easy.

At the heart of Tallinn is its Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where cobbled streets wind between medieval buildings, gothic churches, and historic squares. The Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) is the centrepiece, dominated by the Tallinn Town Hall, the only surviving Gothic town hall in Northern Europe. 

In the square, visitors can enjoy seasonal markets, particularly the Christmas market, which draws large crowds. Climbing the Town Hall tower offers panoramic views of the red-roofed cityscape.

Religious architecture is a highlight of the Old Town. St. Mary’s Cathedral (Dome Church) on Toompea Hill showcases Baroque interiors and hosts the burial sites of medieval Estonian nobility. 

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, a striking Russian Orthodox cathedral also on Toompea Hill, features onion domes and ornate iconography. Nearby, the Toompea Castle, now home to the Estonian Parliament, provides a sense of the city’s political and historical significance.

Cultural institutions abound. The Kumu Art Museum, part of the Art Museum of Estonia, is one of the largest and most modern art museums in Northern Europe, displaying both classical and contemporary Estonian art. 

The Seaplane Harbour Museum (Lennusadam) combines maritime history with interactive exhibits, including submarines, icebreakers, and historic aircraft. For those interested in history, the Estonian History Museum and the Museum of Occupations offer insights into the city’s complex past under Danish, Swedish, German, and Soviet rule.

Tallinn also features several charming districts outside the Old Town. Kadriorg, a residential and cultural area, is home to Kadriorg Palace, a Baroque palace built by Peter the Great, and the surrounding Kadriorg Park, perfect for leisurely walks. 

The Kumu museum is located here, along with other smaller art and cultural institutions. 

Kalamaja, a former fishing district, has transformed into a trendy area with wooden houses, artisan cafés, and a bohemian atmosphere. Nearby, the Telliskivi Creative City hosts design shops, galleries, studios, restaurants, and frequent cultural events.

Nature and scenic walks are easily accessible. The city’s coastline along the Gulf of Finland offers promenades, beaches, and the Lennusadam waterfront. The Tallinn TV Tower, located a short distance outside the city centre, provides sweeping views and interactive exhibits about Estonia’s technological and environmental achievements. 

Several city parks, such as Kadriorg Park and Hirvepark, offer opportunities for cycling, jogging, and relaxation.

Tallinn’s cultural calendar is vibrant. The city hosts numerous festivals, such as the Tallinn Music Week, PÖFF (Tallinn Black Nights Film Festival), and various classical music, theatre, and contemporary art events throughout the year. The Old Town itself features several medieval-themed attractions, including guild halls, artisan workshops, and themed restaurants that offer historical dining experiences.

Shopping and gastronomy are also part of the experience. The Old Town has boutiques selling Estonian design, handicrafts, and souvenirs, while modern areas such as Rotermann Quarter combine shopping with architecture and dining. Local cuisine can be explored in restaurants offering Estonian, Nordic, and fusion dishes, with cafés serving the country’s renowned pastries and coffee culture.

For panoramic city views beyond the Town Hall tower, visitors can ascend the Patkuli viewing platform near Toompea Hill or the Kohtuotsa viewpoint, which overlooks the Old Town and port. Historic city walls and defensive towers, some of which are open to the public, allow a glimpse into Tallinn’s medieval fortifications.

Tallinn also provides opportunities for short excursions. The nearby islands of Naissaar and Aegna offer beaches, forests, and walking trails, while Lahemaa National Park, a 45-minute drive to the east, provides hiking, manor houses, and natural scenery.

Tourism in Tallinn

Tallinn has experienced a significant resurgence in tourism in recent years, with visitor numbers and spending reaching new heights. According to Tallinn’s official tourism statistics, the city welcomed 1.31 million international tourists in 2024, marking an 11% increase from the previous year. 

These visitors contributed to a total of 3.31 million overnight stays, indicating a healthy balance between international and domestic tourism. Notably, the number of multi-day visits grew by 9%, outpacing single-day visits, which increased by 5% 

The economic impact of tourism is substantial, with foreign visitors accounting for approximately 90% of the turnover in Tallinn’s accommodation services . In 2024, international tourists spent an estimated €1 billion in the city .

Origins of visitors

Visitors to Tallinn come from a diverse range of countries. In 2024, the largest number of international tourists hailed from Finland, with 696,000 visits, followed by Latvia with 251,000, Germany with 117,000, Lithuania with 81,000, and the United Kingdom with 70,000. These figures suggest a strong regional interest, particularly from neighbouring countries.

Overtourism concerns

While Tallinn has not been officially classified among Europe’s most overtouristed cities, there are indications of increasing visitor pressure. 

The city’s Old Town experiences significant foot traffic, especially during peak seasons. Local residents and industry experts have expressed concerns about the impact of mass tourism on the city’s infrastructure and quality of life . Measures are being considered to manage visitor numbers and ensure sustainable tourism practices.

Tallinn’s reputation as a destination

Tallinn is gaining recognition as a vibrant and culturally rich destination. The city’s blend of medieval architecture, modern design, and innovative digital landscape appeals to a wide range of travellers. 

Events such as the Tallinn Music Week and the Tallinn Black Nights Film Festival showcase the city’s dynamic cultural scene. Additionally, Tallinn’s reputation as a hub for digital innovation, often referred to as the ‘Silicon Valley of Europe’, attracts tech enthusiasts and entrepreneurs.

How LGBTQIA+ friendly is Tallinn?

Tallinn is widely regarded as one of the most LGBTQIA+ friendly cities in the Baltic States region. The Estonian capital boasts a vibrant and diverse LGBTQIA+ scene, offering a range of venues and events that cater to various tastes and preferences.

Estonia stands out in Eastern Europe for its progressive stance on LGBTQIA+ rights. Same-sex sexual activity has been legal since 1992, and the age of consent was equalized in 2002. In 2024, Estonia became the first former Soviet-occupied state to legalize same-sex marriage and adoption, marking a significant milestone for LGBTQIA+ rights in the region.

LGBTQIA+ nightlife and social venues

Tallinn’s LGBTQIA+ nightlife is centered around several key venues that cater to a diverse clientele:

• Club 69: As Estonia’s only gay sauna and cruising bar, Club 69 offers a comprehensive experience with facilities including aroma saunas, a Finnish sauna, Turkish steam rooms, a jacuzzi, video rooms, relaxing cabins, and dark rooms. The club also hosts themed parties and events, creating a lively and inclusive atmosphere for its patrons.
• HELLo! Bar: A popular LGBTQIA+ bar known for its welcoming environment and vibrant social scene. It’s a great spot for pre-club drinks or casual meetups.
• X-Baar: One of the oldest continuously operating LGBTQIA+ bars in the Baltic States, X-Baar has been a staple of Tallinn’s gay nightlife since 1998. It offers a relaxed setting for drinks and socializing.
• G-Punkt Lounge & Bar: Known for its edgy atmosphere and late-night revelry, G-Punkt is a haven for those seeking an unrestricted nightlife experience in the city.
• Sveta Baar: Hosts monthly queer events, providing a platform for the LGBTQIA+ community to gather and celebrate.

Oh, we did none of those. I didn’t even research it. I even didn’t open Grindr, Scruff or Romeo. This trip was cultural, with some luxury hotels and gastronomic restaurants. 

LGBTQIA+ events and community engagement

Tallinn hosts several LGBTQIA+ events throughout the year, with the most notable being Baltic Pride, which takes place every three years. Baltic Prides rotates between Tallinn, Riga and Vilnius. 

The 2023 Baltic Pride parade saw over 7,000 participants, including government officials and representatives from various embassies, highlighting the city’s commitment to inclusivity and equality. 

Additionally, Hungr, a queer community bar opened in 2023, aims to provide a modern, inclusive, and safe space for LGBTQIA+ individuals and their friends, further enriching Tallinn’s LGBTQIA+ cultural landscape.

Overall reputation

Tallinn’s reputation as an LGBTQIA+ destination is bolstered by its progressive legal framework, diverse nightlife options, and active community engagement. The city’s commitment to inclusivity and equality makes it a welcoming and vibrant destination for LGBTQIA+ travelers and residents alike.

So?

Our day was museum-filled. Both Danny and I had already been to Tallinn. If it’s your first time, allocate two full days. 

Baltic States 2025

1. REVIEW | The Loft by Brussels Airlines and Lexus business lounge at Brussels Airport A-Gates.
2. REVIEW | Brussels Airlines Business Class Brussels to Munich.
3. REVIEW | Lufthansa Business Lounge Schengen and Lufthansa Senator Business Lounge Satellite Schengen at Munich Airport Terminal 2.
4. REVIEW | Air Baltic Business Class Munich to Tallinn.
5. REVIEW | Swissotel Tallinn.
6. TALLINN | Lennusadam Seaplane Harbour Estonian Maritime Museum.
7. TALLINN | Estonian History Museum at the Great Guild Hall.
8. TALLINN | LGBT tour at Vabamu Museum of Occupations and Freedom.
9. RAIL BALTICA | Baltic operators launch joint tender for regional trains.