In May and June 2023, we travelled from east to west across Canada. From Halifax in Nova Scotia to Montreal in Quebec, to Toronto in Ontario, to Vancouver and Whistler in British Columbia. Along the way some night trains and commuter trains, the Niagara Falls and – imagine this – a bus journey. A true Trans-Canada Train Trek.

We started our Canada Trek in Halifax. It’s in the east, it’s where millions of immigrants arrived and it allowed us to take the night train to Montreal, using Nightstar rolling stock? Nightstar? Nightstar was the aborted night train project linking France to Scotland. The rolling stock is similar to the Eurostar train sets, hence the name.

Halifax?

Halifax is the capital city of the province of Nova Scotia, located on the eastern coast of Canada. It is a vibrant and historic city known for its rich maritime heritage, picturesque coastal scenery, and friendly atmosphere.

Halifax has a deep historical significance, particularly in relation to its role in the formation of Canada and its connection to the sea. It was founded in 1749 as a British military outpost and quickly grew into a major trading and naval hub. Halifax played a crucial role during World War I and World War II, serving as a key convoy assembly point for ships crossing the Atlantic. Look up Halifax explosion (1917) for more on that. 

Situated on the shores of the Halifax Harbour, the city offers breathtaking views of the ocean. The waterfront area is a focal point of activity, featuring a bustling boardwalk, charming shops, restaurants, and historic sites. The nearby Atlantic coastline offers picturesque landscapes, rugged cliffs, and pristine beaches, providing ample opportunities for outdoor recreation.

Arts, culture, tourism and education

Halifax is renowned for its vibrant arts and culture scene. The city is home to numerous galleries, theaters, and museums, including the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia, Neptune Theatre, and the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic. The local music scene is thriving, with a diverse range of venues hosting live performances, including traditional Celtic music and modern indie bands.

The city boasts several significant historic sites that offer a glimpse into its past. One such landmark is the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site, an impressive star-shaped fortress that played a crucial role in the city’s defense. Other notable sites include the Historic Properties, a collection of restored buildings showcasing the city’s maritime heritage, and the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21.

Halifax is a major educational center, home to several renowned universities and colleges. Dalhousie University, Saint Mary’s University, and the Nova Scotia Community College are among the institutions that contribute to the city’s dynamic academic and research community. It also ensures an influx of young people.

Halifax hosts a variety of lively festivals throughout the year, celebrating everything from music and culture to food and drink. The Halifax Jazz Festival, Halifax Pop Explosion, and the Halifax International Busker Festival are just a few examples of the exciting events that attract locals and visitors alike.

While we there, there was the quadrennial Unisson Festival, a gathering of Canadian 2SLGBTQIA+ choirs. 2SLGBTQIA+ is the Canadian way to say LGBTQIA+. 2S stands for Two-Spirited, which is a theme with the First Nations of Canada. 

Hospitality

  One of Halifax’s defining characteristics is the warmth and friendliness of its residents. Known as ‘Haligonians’, the locals are known for their welcoming nature and willingness to strike up a conversation. This hospitality contributes to the city’s inviting atmosphere and makes visitors feel right at home.

Highlights

Being a regional hub, Halifax has plenty on offer. 

• Halifax Waterfront or Halifax Harbourwalk: The Halifax Waterfront offers a mix of history, entertainment, shopping, and dining. Several museums are nearby.
• Peggy’s Cove: Located just a short drive from Halifax, Peggy’s Cove is a picturesque fishing village renowned for its lighthouse and coastal scenery. Visitors can explore the rocky shoreline, capture breathtaking photographs, and sample delicious seafood.
• The Halifax Citadel National Historic Site stands prominently in the heart of Halifax. Visitors can take guided tours, watch reenactments, and learn about Halifax’s military history. The Citadel offers panoramic views of the city and hosts daily ceremonies, including the firing of the Noon Gun.
• The Nova Scotia Museum of Natural History showcases Nova Scotia’s natural wonders, including fossils, minerals, and indigenous flora and fauna. The highlight is the exhibit on the region’s famous dinosaur discoveries.
• The Halifax Public Gardens is a beautiful Victorian-style garden, perfect for a leisurely stroll or a picnic. It features vibrant flower displays, fountains, ponds, and manicured lawns, providing a tranquil oasis in the heart of the city.
• Halifax serves as a gateway to explore the stunning coastline of Nova Scotia. Take a day trip to the picturesque town of Lunenburg, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, or visit the Annapolis Valley, known for its wineries, apple orchards, and charming countryside.

One day

We had only one full day in Halifax and we were severely jetlagged. So we did visit the immigration museum and explored the Harbourwalk, which is a pleasant place to be. After dinner we walked up the citadel hill. It was obviously closed. 

One day is short to grasp Halifax. I see its attraction, being the major city in the region. But I wouldn’t put it on top of the (A-) list of sites to see in Canada, coming from overseas. 

2023 Trans-Canada Train Trek

1. REVIEW | Brussels Airlines Brussels to Munich in Economy.
2. REVIEW | Lufthansa Premium Economy Munich to Montreal.
3. REVIEW | Air Canada Economy Montreal to Halifax.
4. Flying Brussels Airlines, Lufthansa and Air Canada Brussels – Munich – Montreal – Halifax in minimal economy.
5. HALIFAX | Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21.
6. REVIEW | The Westin Nova Scotian Halifax.