We haven’t travelled to the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg since 2018 and 2019, but in January 2025 we returned to get a taste of the Alstom Coradia Stream HC which the Société Nationale des Chemins de Fer Luxembourgeois (CFL) runs under the name Série 2400. The Coradia Stream HC was a candidate to become NMBS /SNCB‘s AM30, until it was (all but) decided Construcciones y Auxiliar de Ferrocarriles (CAF) from Spain would adapt its CAF Civity Duo. Although that decision is being challenged. While in the grand duchy, we also visited Schengen and Diekirch. 2025 is big year for the country, as on 3 October, Grand Duke Henri (Henry) will abdicate in favour of his son, Guillaume, who will become Grand Duke Guillaume V (or William V).
After the Conservatoire National de Véhicules Historiques and the Musée d’Histoire de la Brasserie, we decided to visit the Musée d’Histoire[s] Diekirch or Diekirch History/ies Museum. As it was now snowing, we looked for an indoor activity and expected a one-room-sized museum.
We were wrong.
Museum of History/ies
“When the decision was made in 2003 to build a new school complex near the Kluuster and thus to rebuild the existing structures from the ground up, a new location had to be found for the Roman Mosaic Museum, which was located in the cellar of the old school. The main objective was therefore to create a new home for the Roman mosaics”, the museum website says.
The municipal council therefore decided to purchase two houses in the city centre, which were in an excellent location: next to the gallery, opposite the St. Lawrence Church and its crypt, which are listed as historical monuments. During the first renovations it quickly became apparent that both houses were quite dilapidated. After reviewing the plans the decision was made to build a new building.
“Therefore, the concept had to be reconsidered: while the focus for the first project was only on three Roman mosaics, a team of professionals developing the museological and museographic concept quickly realized that it would not be enough to tell the rich history of the city of Diekirch only through mosaics.” Therefore, in order to have a more complete museum, a single mosaic should serve as the highlight of the museum.
“The choice was easy: the ‘lion’ mosaic was not complete, the front part of the main subject was missing and the apse mosaic was not in the possession of the municipality. Thus, the mosaic with the image of the riddle masks is now considered the nugget of the exhibition. Today, all three mosaics are the property of the National Museum of History and Art (MNHA), which also undertook the restoration work.
“This ’emptying’ therefore provides the opportunity to present a large part of the city’s past from prehistory to the present day. The reconstruction is sometimes done with precision, but sometimes also with a certain reluctance, due to the lack of data. The inhabitants of Diekirch or all those interested in regional history will find in each room a specific subject taken from local or regional history, but this always situated in a national context. In addition, an overview of different scientific methods will show the steps to be taken at the heart of the research.”
“The location of the museum is very advantageous. First, it allows visitors to have a rather unusual view of the south facade of the old Saint-Laurent church as well as its crypt from the medieval period. In addition, the museum, twinned with the gallery, offers workshops, temporary exhibitions in addition to the permanent exhibition.”
Museum lay-out
The exhibition is spread over five rooms, each of which is dedicated to a specific thematic area.
“Each topic is presented in chronological order, from prehistory to the present day. The whole is based on scientific research results and facts from local history, inserted into the framework of the larger story.”
“Thus, the visitor not only receives an insight into the history of the city of Diekirch, but also discovers its origin and effects in the context of the historical events of the country.”
A visit
So, the museum is larger than expected. While we didn’t spend that long – we do have prior knowledge about (pre)historic and medieval times – the exhibition is insightful.
Texts were in German though, while the museum name is in French. It’s how Luxembourg works. According to Wikipedia, “Luxembourgish, a Germanic language, is the only national language of the Luxembourgish people and of the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg, French is the only language for legislation, and all three – Luxembourgish, German and French – are used for administrative matters in the country.”
The museum employees were enthusiastic and insisted us to visit the museum properly. Don’y worry, we did.
Introducing Diekirch
Diekirch is a commune with town status in north-eastern Luxembourg. It lies within the canton of Diekirch and, until 2015, was part of the district of Diekirch. The town is located on the banks of the Sauer River. Diekirch is 12.42 km2 large and home to some 7,300 people.
Diekirch’s heraldic shield, featuring a crowned lion on a castle, was officially granted in 1988 and is based on the town’s 14th-century seal and arms. In 1977, it became the first town in Luxembourg to establish a pedestrian zone.
The town is known for its brewery, which shares its name with Diekirch and holds national significance. Three secondary schools are located here: Lycée classique de Diekirch, Lycée technique hôtelier Alexis Heck, and Nordstadlycée.
Diekirch is home to the Luxembourg Army‘s national operational headquarters at the Haerebierg Military Centre on the Herrenberg hill. It also houses the National Museum of Military History, reflecting the town’s key role in the Battle of the Bulge during World War II.
On the night of 18 January 1945, the US 5th Infantry Division crossed the Sauer River here. Additionally, the town is the seat of one of six regional Grand Ducal Police headquarters and one of Luxembourg’s two judicial districts.
Historically, the town’s name is believed to date back to the late 8th century when Charlemagne resettled Saxons in the area to consolidate his control. A church built to convert these settlers to Christianity gave the settlement its name, ‘Diet-Kirch‘ or ‘people’s church’.
In the 14th century, John, King of Bohemia, fortified Diekirch with walls and a moat. These fortifications remained until the early 19th century when the occupying French forces demolished them and replaced them with tree-lined avenues.
Excavations in the 1960s revealed that the St. Laurence church was of Roman origin. Subsequent archaeological finds, including wall ruins and mosaics, led to the reconstruction of a large Roman villa that once occupied the medieval town’s land before its abandonment in the early 5th century.
Diekirch hosts the International March of Diekirch, a walking event held since 1968, with distances ranging from 20 to 40 kilometres. It is open to both military personnel and civilians, with finishers earning the ‘Marche de l’Armée‘ medal. During the COVID-19 pandemic, the march was held virtually in 2020 and 2021 but returned to an in-person event in 2023. The march is popular among NATO service members, including the US Army, with notable events hosted by the 492nd Civil Affairs Battalion in Arizona.
The town also holds an annual cross-country running competition, the Eurocross, which is an IAAF permit meeting and has attracted world-class athletes such as Gabriela Szabo and Irina Mikitenko.
Diekirch’s mascot is the donkey, a symbol celebrated with a central donkey fountain and an annual carnival procession, the cavalcade, held under its banner.
So?
Diekirch is not large, but it seemed to us to be a ‘local centre’. We were there during lunchtime and streets were filled with youth in trackies and sweatpants looking for lunch. We didn’t expect so much activity.
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