In May and June 2023, we travelled from east to west across Canada. From Halifax in Nova Scotia to Montreal in Quebec, to Toronto in Ontario, to Vancouver and Whistler in British Columbia. Along the way some night trains and commuter trains, the Niagara Falls and – imagine this – a bus journey. A true Trans-Canada Train Trek.

This blog post is a compilation of the previous ones about The Canadian. If you prefer reading them per travel day and per scroll to the end of this post for the list of links. You’ll find more photos there. 

Day 1: boarding in Toronto and crossing Ontario

The moment had arrived. The raison d’être of this Canada trip. We boarded the The Canadian, train number 1, on Sunday the 28th of May 2023 for four days and nights and a bit to cross the country by rail, to Vancouver, in one go. 

Presentation

The Canadian refers to a long-distance passenger train service operated by VIA Rail Canada, the national passenger rail service in Canada. It is the flagship trains of VIA Rail and offers a scenic cross-country journey from Toronto, Ontario, to Vancouver, British Columbia. The journey from Toronto to Vancouver is train number 1. The reverse is train number 2. 

The Canadian train route covers a distance of approximately 4,466 kilometers (2,775 miles) and takes around four days to complete. It passes through diverse landscapes, including the Canadian Rockies, prairies, boreal forests, and stunning mountain ranges, providing passengers with breathtaking views of Canada’s natural beauty.

The train offers various classes of service, including Sleeper Plus class, which provides private cabins or roomettes for overnight accommodations, as well as access to lounges, dining cars, and panoramic dome cars for observing the scenery. Economy class is also available for those who prefer a more budget-friendly option.

Passengers on The Canadian have the opportunity to experience the charm of train travel, socialize with fellow travelers, and enjoy the picturesque landscapes along the route. The journey is often regarded as an iconic travel experience and is popular among both domestic and international tourists seeking a unique way to explore Canada.

Before 1955, the Canadian was a Canadian Pacific (CP) train connecting Toronto and Chicago in Illinois in the United States.

On April 24, 1955, CP renamed its transcontinental train between Montreal, Toronto and Vancouver to its new name, the Canadian.

In 1978, Via Rail Canada acquired the line, and, on January 15, 1990, designated the Canadian as its sole transcontinental service, between Toronto and Vancouver. The new service replaced the former Super Continental CN flagship passenger service, and continues to run as of 2022 primarily over Canadian National tracks. 

History

In the years following World War II, passenger trains on the CP consisted of a mixture of prewar heavyweight and pre- and post-war lightweight cars, even on its flagship transcontinental The Dominion and its eastern extension, The Atlantic Limited. 

While these cars were serviceable, American trains of the early 1950s, such as the California Zephyr, had already adopted streamlined all-stainless steel consists featuring domed observation cars. Following an evaluation in 1949 of the dome cars featured on the General Motors / Pullman Standard demonstrator Train of Tomorrow, CP management resolved to upgrade its rolling stock.

In 1953, CP placed an order for 155 stainless steel cars with the Budd Company of Red Lion, near Philadelphia in Pennsylvania that included 18 rear-end dome cars called Park Cars, 18 Skyline mid-train dome cars, 30 coaches, 18 dining cars and 71 sleeping cars, known as the Manor and Château series. 

A subsequent order for 18 baggage-crew dormitory cars brought the final to total to 173 cars: sufficient for establishing an entirely-new transcontinental service and partially re-equipping The Dominion.

The interior design of these new cars was contracted to the Philadelphia architectural firm Harbeson, Hough, Livingston & Larson, a company known for its industrial designs on other prominent passenger trains such as the Pioneer Zephyr, and the resulting furnishings and pastel-shaded colour schemes were widely acclaimed.

After deciding to name the Park series dome cars after famous Canadian parks, leading Canadian artists, including members of the Group of Seven, were commissioned to paint suitable murals for these cars.

When the decision was made to add budget sleeping cars, the Budd order was supplemented by 22 existing heavyweight sleepers that CP refurbished in its own Angus Shops, each fitted-out with Budd-style stainless steel cladding.

Service under CP

CP christened its new flagship train The Canadian and service began on April 24, 1955. Running time between Montreal and Vancouver was reduced from about 85 to 71 hours, so that passengers spent only three, rather than four, nights en route.

Although CP competitor Canadian National Railways began its own new transcontinental service, the Super Continental, on the same day, CP was able to boast honestly that The Canadian was “The first and only all-stainless steel ‘dome’ stream-liner in Canada” — it was not until 1964 that the CN acquired dome cars from the Milwaukee Road.

Although initially successful, passenger train ridership began to decline in Canada during the 1960s. Air and car travel were fierce competitors. 

Via Rail takes over

Via Rail, a federal crown corporation, formally assumed responsibility for CP’s passenger services on October 29, 1978. 

The Super Continental was discontinued in 1981 due to sharp budget cuts. Since then, the Canadian has Via Rail’s only true transcontinental train. While the Super Continental was brought back in 1985 amid popular demand, it only ran as far east as Winnipeg.

In the aftermath of another round of deep budget cuts made to Via Rail on January 15, 1990, Via again discontinued the Super Continental, this time permanently. 

The new longer route bypassed Thunder Bay, Regina and Calgary in favour of Saskatoon and Edmonton.

In 2007, the schedule was lengthened so that the train now takes four nights, rather than three, to travel between Toronto and Vancouver. The four-night schedule is almost identical (in terms of travel time) with that of the 1940s, despite substantial technological change since then.

Due to CN’s shortage of capacity on the cross-country line, 12-hour delays had become almost standard. On-time performance had fallen from 84% in 2009 to just 8% in 2017. Continuing delays reached nearly two days in length by mid-May, 2018.

To address this issue, the schedule was lengthened again, effective July 26, 2018, to four days and four nights in each direction due to continuing schedule-reliability problems on the host railway: CN. This change has almost entirely resolved the issue.

The Canadian currently takes 94 hours 15 minutes westbound vs. 95 hours 29 minutes eastbound.

Current operations

When operating on the normal schedule, the Canadian operates twice per week, departing Toronto on Wednesdays and Sundays and Vancouver on Mondays and Fridays. The total journey takes about four days.

The great majority of stations operate as flag stops; passengers boarding or detraining at these stops must give advance notice. 

Classes of service

The Canadian offers three main classes of service: Economy, Sleeper Plus, and, since 2014, Prestige.

Sleeper Plus and Prestige passengers have access to the Via Rail business lounge, if available at that station. Prestige passengers are offered exclusive access to a dedicated business lounge area.

Sleeper Plus and Prestige passengers are pre-boarded.

No smoking is permitted in any Via station or on board the Canadian, including e-cigarettes and marijuana. The Canadian will make extended stops at some stations, which allow passengers to step outside the train and smoke if they so desire.

Economy class cars are kept separate from sleeper cars. One concierge is assigned to every sleeper car, or sometimes to two sleeper cars. The Prestige rooms are at the very back of the train.

Economy offers reclining seats. Sleeper Plus has a choice of upper/lower berths, a roomette for one, or a cabin for two: each of which features chairs or facing sofa seats during the day and beds at night. Some berths can accommodate two persons. It is also possible to join two adjoining cabins for two to create a space for four people during the day. 

The second bed in a cabin for two is a pull-down bunk. Prestige offers a significantly larger cabin, with a modular leather sofa during the day which converts to a double bed at night. The Prestige cabin also has a much larger window.

Economy and Sleeper Plus have one washroom per car. Prestige has both private washroom facilities and private showers.

Meals and entertainment

Sleeper Plus and Prestige include three-course meals in a dining car, including non-alcoholic drinks during meals and coffee/tea/snacks at all hours. Prestige additionally includes unlimited drinks, including alcoholic drinks, with a dedicated concierge who will bring requested drinks to the room. 

Economy gives access to a cafe car with light meals available for purchase.

Meals include breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Breakfast is open seating, with an additional continental breakfast available in the Skyline car. Lunch and dinner are served in two or three seatings, usually chosen the previous evening.

All classes have access to their own Skyline car. Sleeper Plus and Prestige passengers also have access to the Panorama car. Prestige passengers have semi-exclusive access to the Park car, a licensed lounge at the back of the train.

Talks and activities are scheduled during the summer months. If a singer or musical group is travelling with the train, separate performances will be available to each class of service.

Prestige uniquely has an in-cabin flatscreen television, with a selection of TV channels and movies.

First, checking in

So. We presented ourselves at Toronto Unio Station over an hour in advance as required. We checked in at the business lounge and made our first lunch and dinner reservations. We had to check in our main luggage. You only have space for a carry-on or overnight bag in your sleeping quarters. 

Dropping of your bags is done further away. This procedure is not entirely clear so you need to pay attention. 

The business lounge

The business lounge is were it begins. The lounge at Toronto Union Station features your typical amenities. Seating, drinks, some snacks, your last ‘land toilet’ for four days. 

It was crowded. You could sense the anticipation.

Boarding

Soon it was time to board. Our car was number 110, Fraser Manor. Named after Simon Fraser, a 19th century explorer and pioneering settler in British Columbia. We were greeted by the handsome and charming attendant Ben, who – along with the rest of the crew – would accompany us to Winnipeg. 

I settled in my roomette and wanted to explore the train, but first I had to get the safety briefing. 

Off we go

We departed on time and I had a great spot in the dome car. The first leg would bring us to Washago, Parry Sound, Greater Sudbury and Capreol. At Capreol we had a first smokers’ and refueling stop. We accumulated over 5 hours’ delay on day 1, stopping often to let freight trains pass. We also suspect we were sent on the wrong track at the beginning of the journey.

First meals

Being the literal fifth wheel of the wagon, I would sit with strangers at every meal. Luckily I’m quite proficient with English. Lunch and dinner include a starter (or two!), a main and a dessert.

The started is always soup and / or a salad. Mains have a meat, fish and vegetarian option. Often there’s a pasta or a chicken. Dessert consists of a cake or tart or ice cream. Then there is tea and coffee. Sift drinks are included in the price, alcohol isn’t. You always get plenty of tap water. 

First lunch offered a pulled pork sandwich, shrimp and scallop skewer, pasta of the day or a veggie burger. The soup was a vegetable soup. The dessert options were chocolate ice cream or carrot pecan cake. 

Dinner offered beef tenderloin, trout fillet, chicken with pesto cream or a broccoli stir fry. The soup option was a minestrone. For dessert the choices were doble de leche cheesecake or triple chocolate fudge cake.

In between meals

What do you do in between meals? Look outside. Enjoy the Skyline car under the dome, which is divided in a lounge area and a games area with tables. Sleeper passengers can have complimentary tea, coffee, water, cookies and fruit there. 

After 4 PM sleeper passengers are welcome in the Park Car, which until 4 PM is reserved for Prestige passengers. 

And soon enough it’s time for bed!

Days 2 & 3: Ontario, Manitoba, Saskatchewan and Alberta

While we ended day 1 with over five hours delay, we woke up near Hornepayne, Ontario with 2.30 hours day. Overnight we had changed timezones. Not outside, but within the bubble of the train. So I was up really early and took an early shower. 

Breakfast on day 2

As I was fifthwheeling anyway, I decided to have breakfast on my own. Breakfast is without a fixed seating time. 

The options were: 

• The Transcontinental: available every day. It’s the train’s specialty. Eggs any style, bacon, ham or sausage, hash.
• Daily changed chief’s omelette.
• Sweet waffles.
• Vegan hash.
• A continental assortment.

Obviously you can have coffee, tea or hot chocolate, water, juices. And toast: white bread, brown bread or rye bread. Beware: they are already buttered. Not nice for lactose-intolerant people.

Lunch on day 2

Fir lunch, we had the choice of beef burger, tuna mekt, falafel pita or quinoa salad. It was preceded by minestrone soup and for dessert it was vanilla ice cream or a brownie.

Dinner on day 2

The dinner options were pork loin, potato-crusted cod, chicken Florentine or garden vegetables lasagna. The soup was a chicken broth. Inspired by my table guests from Baden-Württenberg in Germany, I ordered the second starter of a quinoa salad as well. It now strikes the salad is the same as the vegetarian lunch options.

Dessert was Key lime pie. 

Between the meals

We did more than just eat. We enjoyed the dome car, we attempted a jigsaw puzzle and I binge-read a book, ‘A Tale of Two Princes‘ by Eric Geron. About Edward, Prince of Canada and Billy, a boy from Montana in the United States. 

Stops

We had two stops with a bit of stretching-your-legs time. At Sioux Lookout and at Winnipeg, in Manitoba. In Winnipeg we were supposed to arrive at 7.30 PM and have three hours. But our delay meant we were only let off the train after 10 PM and we had one hour. Just enough to see the station’s rotunda and walk across the station. But what else can you do at that time of night. Quite disappointing.

Winnipeg was also the site for a crew change. So bye Ben, hello Patrick. Bye Bobby from the dome car, hello Jeanette. Part of the crew would now be students. 

Meals on day 3

Breakfast doesn’t change much. I had pancakes.

For lunch, I had the ginger beef with rice. I don’t remember which soup it was. But the dessert options were apple crumble or chocolate ice cream. Another option for the main was shrimp and scallops. So we had two recurring items.

For dinner, prime rib of beef was a fan favourite, vut I had the sole with fruit. The soup was a tomato soup and for dessert I had chocolate fudge cake. The alternative was some sponge cake. 

In between meals

Manitoba and Saskatchewan are known for the prairies and the agriculture. But we found the landscape not to be boring. So there was a lot of looking outside, but we also played Rummikub and partook in a wine tasting. In the doom car, we tried to get nice shots of the train in a bend. 

We had two smokers’ and refueling stops. At Saskatoon and at Edmonton. 

From Jasper via the Rocky Mountains to Kamloops and Vancouver

We arrived at Jasper in de province of Alberta early morning. It was worth waking up early for the views. The day was organised differently. No breakfast or lunch but brunch. So you’re expected to have breakfast in town. Nice cost-saving measure for VIA Rail. 

Jasper is a famous and important stop on the route. Many passengers get off here, or get on for the last stretch. But as town it is small. Only onder 5,000 inhabitants and a few streets. 

Be as it may, there were a few breakfast options. We wanted to try Beavertails, but it only opened at 10 AM so that’s too late. We had breakfast at Coco’s Café. In your face queer-run. Nice people. But they did mix up the order. I guess five orders at once is a bit much. 

Jasper was full of rainbows and pride messages. A bit too much even. Ah well. It was pride month.

Rocking the Rockies

The leg in the Rocky Mountains is the most popular part of the trip. So it’s important to grab a good view. In Jasper, the dome windows were cleaned.

Danny and I started the journey in the economy class dome car, which not everyone appreciated. We only stayed an hour. Afterwards we found seats in ‘our’ dedicated dome car.

At one point the attendant came with wine… but not for us. She looked at us, started on the other side and was out of glasses when she got to us. When she returned with a full trey, she started downstairs and gave others seconds. We had to ask the canapé provider, Flo(rent), for Jeanette to come with a glass of wine for us. Surely, it wasn’t on purpose she ignored us, but it actually felt that way.

The Rocky Mountains do offer beautiful vistas, not unlike Switzerland or Norway, but bigger. We passed Mount Robson and a waterfall. 

Meals on day 4

Tje brunch offered a mix of breakfast and lunch, as you’d expect. By day 4 some items return. Which on one hand is nice, but can’t VIA Rail think of 4-5 days of unique menus?

Blue River and Kamloops

We had two stops to stretch our legs. In Blue River an ambulance evacuated one of the passengers. We were ordered in before we could see who.  The next stop, Kamloops North, was a bit longer. But it’s basically a shunting yard.

Lake Kamloops

Dinner happened while winding next to Lake Kamkoops. This provided an opportunity to photograph the head and the tail of the 22 or 23 cars-long train. 

Last night

By the way, the delay of over five hours was gone. We were ahead of schedule in Kamloops so the train stopped a few times during night not to be too early in Vancouver Pacific Central Station.

The end

The last morning felt a bit rushed. There was a waiting list for a quick breakfast. Many items weren’t available anymore. After breakfast we had to be off the train by  8.30 AM.

So, this was it. Next week I’ll discuss life on board The Canadian. 

Life on board VIA Rail’s The Canadian: eating, sleeping, showering and keeping busy

In the previous three Canada posts, I described the journey and the meals of VIA Rail‘s train number 1, The Canadian. But how is life on board?

Eat, sleep, repeat

Eating is an important part of the day. The meals are anchor points. While breakfast is “come when you want” between 6.30 and 8.30 AM, lunch and dinner have two seatings. On day 3, there were even three seatings. But that was because the crew was staffed with students and their instructors wanted smaller groups for them to handle. But two seatings is the standard.

We always took second seating. First seating was too early. We’re not that old yet. 

How is the food. I found the meals to be tasty. The portions weren’t too big and thats good because you eat so much. Three-course meals twice a day. Sam sometimes asked for a second main. I sometimes asked for two starters, one of the options always being a salad. 

Included are water, soft drinks and coffee and tea. A glass of wine is CAD 10. Which is a good price. 

Bar service

The dome car is also a lounge and a games area. The sleeper car passengers have access to free water, coffee, tea and hot chocolates and small snacks such as fruit or cookies (biscuits). There is also bar service, but then you pay for your drinks. 

The dome car is centre of entertainment. Looking outside, socializing or playing a game. People read, others work or game on their laptop. Nintendo Switches were popular. The attendant also organises activities such as beer and wine tastings, talks and trivia time and even some yoga or gymnastics.

Nt being North Americans and thus not being champions at small talk, we didn’t partake often in such organised activities. 

Sleeping

Maddie and Jozef (Danny‘s parents) and Sam and Danny had a ‘bedroom’. These were European-style units with bunk beds, two chairs, a toilet and a sink. There is plenty of light and you have power outlets. Tho pull down the bed, you need help from your attendant. You sleep transversally, so ‘across the tracks’.

Danny found the bed comfortable, but annoying you needed help to pull it down. The daytime chairs were too low to be comfortable enough and didn’t provide a great outside view.

Roomette

I slept in a roomette, meant for one. Now, it is small but it’s cosy. In a daytime setting, you have a seat and a second small seat which hides a toilet. You have a sink, plenty of light and two power outlets. 

An oddity is the taps. One tap offers drinking water, but contrary to a bedroom, I had no label saying so. It is also difficult to operate.

I found the roomette pretty comfortable, once you find your way. Being able to use a toilet while passing beautiful landscapes is quite a thing. 

Also, you’re master of your bed. The bed is ‘wall bed’ which you pull down yourself. Practical for a nap. But the seat, combined with the stool stool (no typo) is very relaxing. 

Roomettes make you sleep longitudinally, so in line with the tracks. I would definitely recommend booking a roomette.

Berths

Speaking to fellow passengers, they said their berth was comfortable. Could be, but privacy is down and they don’t have power sockets. Nowadays that is essential. 

Prestige

Prestige is another level. Look on YouTube for reviews, because we didn’t have access. It’s just too expensive. 

Showering

Each sleeper car has a shower and it’s a good one. There is enough space to change, the shower cabin itself is not small, the water is warm and the pressure is good. You get per day a plastic bag with two towels, shampoo and soap. 

In the words of Danny: better one good shower facility per car, than lame individual ones. 

Showering starts early. I was usually the first or second to use it, before breakfast. Other passengers then to shower at a random time during the day, also to pass time. 

Exercise?

Well, with 22 to 23 cars, you can get some steps in. Combined with the smoking stops, I could manage some 5,000 steps per day. Which isn’t too bad. But w found most people stay in their area consisting of their sleeper car, heir dome car and their dining car. 

Socializing

You’re expected to be sociable, so be ready for small talk. You’ll survive. I was the perpetual fifth wheel on this trip so I used all my social skills. Some conversations were interesting. I survived. 

Early mornings, early nights

I haven’t mentioned people rise early and go to bed early. Basically you follow daylight. I heard from passengers sometimes stay up all night long in the park car, but not during this journey. 

Is the four-day The Canadian night train journey something for you?

In the previous four Canada blogposts I described the journey and life on board VIA Rail‘s number 1 train (literally) The Canadian. 

The question is. Should you do it? 

Our group of five was quite eclectic. Danny, Danny’s dad Jozef and I are quite into trains and rail travel. Danny’s mom Maddie and Sam accompanied because the other three wanted to do The Canadian. And while Maddie enjoyed the rest, the calm, and she “sat back and enjoyed the ride”, Sam got fed up with the journey around day 2.

He had several valid issues with the experience. 

Delays shorten scheduled stops

The Canadian is hugely prone to delays. On day one, we accumulated over five hours! Which means scheduled long stops – for refueling, restocking – are shortened to the minimum. So less time to explore the vicinity.

Winnipeg in Manitoba was a prime example. We were supposed to be there at 7.30 PM and have three hours which allows you to walk tp the city centre. Also because Winnipeg Union Station is not too far from the interesting parts of the city. 

Instead we arrived past 10 PM and we got one hour. So no discovering Winnipeg. That sucks.

Stops are at uninteresting places.

Saskatoon in Saskatchewan, Edmonton in Alberta or Kamloops North in British Columbia are kinda in the middle of nowhere. They’re stations, but in industrial areas. Kamloops North does not surpass the status of shunting yard.

Same got annoyed we stopped there and not at interesting place, so people can hike a bit or take nice photos. 

The meals

Sam got annoyed with the meals. He didn’t like the service and found the portions rather small. He did prefer the second catering crew over the first. For me, it was the opposite. 

I did enjoy the catering service.

Annoying announcements

Sam got in a state of mind were everything was just annoying, including announcements for things to see and watch or explaining were we are.

Sam often retreated to his quarters and would have liked to be spared these announcements.

It doesn’t help the not getting wine incident was an issue with the attendant making the announcements. 

Discomfort

He didn’t like the dome car. Which is the main selling proposition of the ride. He didn’t want the other people, the talking and didn’t like the seats. 

Passive

Sam is an active person and missed things to actively do. So it all got under his skin and once in this state of mind, it’s to see the positives.

The reality

I’m not writing this to shame Sam. Absolutely not. No “he could have known” or “he knew what he was in for”. But it does illustrate such a ride is not for everyone. 

He does have points. The Canadian oscillates between being a regular ‘commuter’ service and a tourism experience. There’s definitely some identity crisis here. Which leads to some odd choices and quirks. 

So?

To make this journey a success for yourself, you must cherish the idea of the ride. Going cross-continent in comfort and style. Ticking that box on your wish list.

You’d better be able to enjoy slow travel, looking outside often, being mostly offline for a couple of days, being out of control of your day and activities. 

If not, this is nothing for you. 

2023 Trans-Canada Train Trek

1. REVIEW | Brussels Airlines Brussels to Munich in Economy.
2. REVIEW | Lufthansa Premium Economy Munich to Montreal.
3. REVIEW | Air Canada Economy Montreal to Halifax.
4. Flying Brussels Airlines, Lufthansa and Air Canada Brussels – Munich – Montreal – Halifax in minimal economy.
5. HALIFAX | Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21.
6. REVIEW | The Westin Nova Scotian Halifax.
7. NOVA SCOTIA | Sampling Halifax.
8. REVIEW | VIA Rail Canada night train 15 ‘The Ocean’ from Halifax to Montreal.
9. QUEBEC | Meandering Montreal.
10. REVIEW | InterContinental Montreal.
11. FORMULA 1 CANADIAN GRAND PRIX | Circuit Gilles Villeneuve, Montreal track walk.
12. MONTREAL | Dining solo at Monarque felt like being part of a tv show.
13. MONTREAL | Exporail – Canadian Railway Museum in Saint-Constant.
14. REVIEW | VIA Rail train Montreal to Toronto in business class.
15. ONTARIO | Touring Toronto.
16. REVIEW | Little Canada museum in Toronto.
17. TORONTO | CN Tower.
18. REVIEW | Residence Inn by Marriott Toronto Downtown / Entertainment District.
19. CANADA | Train excursion to Niagara Falls.
20. THE CANADIAN | Day 1: boarding in Toronto and crossing Ontario.
21. THE CANADIAN | Days 2 & 3: Ontario, Manitoba, Saskatchewan and Alberta.
22. THE CANADIAN | From Jasper via the Rocky Mountains to Kamloops and Vancouver.
23. Life on board VIA Rail’s The Canadian: eating, sleeping, showering and keeping busy.
24. Is the four-day The Canadian night train journey something for you?.