September 2023. Oriol and I are flying to Toulouse for a road trip in Occitania and (French) Catalonia. We include the Principality of Andorra, which I can finally tick off the bucket list, and Llívia, Spain‘s exclave in France. Besides Toulouse we visit Mont-Louis, Villefranche-de-Conflent, Perpignan and Carcassonne.

Carcassonne is one of those household destination names. Since I was a child I wanted to visit the medieval town, which is often referred to as Cité de Carcassonne. More medieval than the Middle Ages, Carcassonne for me can be put in the same category as Bouillon, the Mont-Saint-Michel, Haut-Koenigsbourg Castle or Schloss Neuschwanstein. They all ooze 19th century romantic views on the Middle Ages. 

Introduction

Carcassonne is outside Catalonia and has always been. Its raison d’être as fortified town was being on the border.

It’s in historic Occitania and in the present-day department of Aude. The town is renowned not only for its charming streets, historic fortifications, and rich cultural heritage but also for its association with one of the world’s most beloved board games.

Historical background

To appreciate Carcassonne fully, one must first delve into its historical origins. The town’s history is a tapestry woven from threads of Roman occupation, medieval intrigue, and centuries of evolution. Carcassonne’s strategic location along trade routes in the region made it a coveted prize for various rulers throughout history. Its story begins as far back as the Roman times when it was a bustling trading hub known as Carcaso.

Carcasso traces its roots to the Roman Empire when it served as an important regional center for trade and commerce. The Romans fortified the city, leaving behind remnants of their architecture that can still be seen today.

The town reached the zenith of its fame during the medieval era, particularly in the 12th century when it became embroiled in the Albigensian Crusade. As a stronghold of Catharism, a religious movement considered heretical by the Roman Catholic Church, Carcassonne faced siege and capture, leading to its transformation into a formidable fortress.

Architecture

The most striking feature of Carcassonne is undoubtedly its remarkable architecture with Playmobil vibes, which transports visitors back in time to the medieval era. The city’s fortifications are a testament to the ingenuity of its builders and the resilience of its inhabitants.

The double walls

Carcassonne is renowned for its double walls, which encircle the old town in a seemingly impenetrable embrace. The outer wall, known as the ‘Circumference‘, stretches for nearly 3 km and is punctuated by 52 or 53 towers (I found both numbers), each with its unique design and history. The inner wall, called the Château Comtal or the Count’s Castle encompasses the core of the medieval town, housing the castle and the basilica.

The Count’s Castle

The Château Comtal, the heart of Carcassonne’s medieval stronghold, stands as an imposing testament to medieval military architecture. Visitors can explore its ramparts, towers, and inner courtyards while enjoying panoramic views of the town and the surrounding countryside.

The castle possesses its own drawbridge and ditch leading to a central keep. The walls consist of towers built over quite a long period.

One section is Roman and is notably different from the medieval walls, with the tell-tale red brick layers and the shallow pitch terracotta tile roofs. One of these towers housed the Catholic Inquisition in the 13th century and is still known as the Inquisition Tower.

A visit takes up to two hours. As often with medieval castles, there’s not much furniture to admire. But the tour is long and the château is large so you’l walk many miles.

19th century romanticism

Carcassonne was demilitarised under Napoleon Bonaparte and the Restoration, and the fortified cité of Carcassonne fell into such disrepair that the French government decided that it should be demolished. 

A decree to that effect that was made official in 1849 caused an uproar. The antiquary and mayor of Carcassonne, Jean-Pierre Cros-Mayrevieille, and the writer Prosper Mérimée, the first inspector of ancient monuments, led a campaign to preserve the fortress as a historical monument. 

Later in the year the architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc, already at work restoring the Basilica of Saints Nazarius and Celsus, was commissioned to renovate the place.

In 1853, work began with the west and southwest walls, followed by the towers of the Porte Narbonnaise and the principal entrance to the cité. 

The fortifications were consolidated here and there, but the chief attention was paid to restoring the roofing of the towers and the ramparts, where Viollet-le-Duc ordered the destruction of structures that had encroached against the walls, some of them of considerable age. Viollet-le-Duc left copious notes and drawings upon his death in 1879 when his pupil Paul Boeswillwald and, later, Henri Nodet continued the rehabilitation of Carcassonne.

The restoration was strongly criticized during Viollet-le-Duc’s lifetime. Fresh from work in the north of France, he made the error of using slate (when there was no slate to be quarried around) instead of terracotta tiles. The slate roofs were claimed to be more typical of northern France, as was the addition of the pointed tips to the roofs. 

Viollet-le-Duc

Eugène Emmanuel Viollet-le-Duc (1814-1879) is just a product of his time, wanting to restore Carcassonne to its medieval glory. But seen through 19th century romanticism glasses. His major restoration projects included Notre-Dame de Paris, the Basilica of Saint Denis, Mont-Saint-Michel, the Sainte-Chapelle, the medieval walls of the city of Carcassonne, and Roquetaillade Castle in the Bordeaux region.

Some see him as the father of modern architecture as a profession. 

Basilica of Saints Nazarius and Celsus

Adjacent to the Château Comtal lies the Basilica of Saints Nazarius and Celsus, a stunning example of Gothic architecture. The basilica’s stained glass windows, intricate sculptures, and awe-inspiring nave transport visitors to a time when faith and art were intrinsically intertwined.

Carcassonne as a boardgame

While Carcassonne’s historical significance is undeniable, it has also made a significant mark on popular culture in a rather unexpected way. In 2000, the German board game designer Klaus-Jürgen Wrede released a tile-based strategy game named ‘Carcassonne’. The game has since become a global sensation, captivating the hearts and minds of board gamers worldwide.

The board game, revolves around creating a landscape of medieval towns, roads, fields, and monasteries by placing tiles. Players strategically deploy followers to claim features on the tiles, earning points as the landscape develops. The game’s simplicity and depth make it accessible to casual players while offering ample strategic depth for enthusiasts.

Modern-day Carcassonne

Beyond its historical significance and board game fame, Carcassonne remains a vibrant and living town. It continues to draw visitors from around the world who come to admire its beauty, soak in its history, and enjoy its unique ambiance.

Tourism 

Carcassonne’s well-preserved medieval architecture and captivating atmosphere make it a top tourist destination in France. Visitors can explore the cobblestone streets, dine in charming cafes, and immerse themselves in the town’s rich history.

Cuisine 

Carcassonne’s cuisine reflects its Occitan heritage, with dishes like cassoulet, a hearty bean stew, being a local specialty. Exploring the town’s restaurants and markets provides a delicious journey into the region’s culinary traditions.

We found many, quite pricy restaurants. But France being France, you can also find pretty decent cheap restaurants with a good and affordable lunch menu or menu déjeuner. 

Artisanal ice cream

I only photographed a few of them, because my penny dropped late. But Carcassonne is full of artisanal ice cream vendors. I emphasize the ‘artisanal’, because they almost all market themselves as such. 

So?

Carcassonne is a popular destination for an excursion and it’s not hard to see why. It’s pretty and quaint and very medieval* yet quite accessible. So yes, you should go and visit one day if you’re in the region. 

* But a 19th century version of medieval. 

2023 Occitania – Andorra – Catalonia Road Trip

1. TOULOUSE-BLAGNAC AIRPORT | Arrival, ID check, car rental and unusually strict security at departure.
2. REVIEW | Novotel Toulouse Purpan Aéroport.
3. Circuit Andorra.
4. HOTEL REVIEW | Eurostars Andorra.
5. REVIEW | Caldea hot spring spa and treatments in Andorra la Vella.
6. Andorra la Vella & Escaldes–Engordany.
7. QUEER ANDORRA | Entre Nous, the only gay bar in the village.
8. ANDORRA PARLIAMENT HOUSE | Casa de la Vall.
9. Andorra.
10. Llívia, Spain’s exclave in France.
11. LE TRAIN JAUNE TERRITORY | Mont-Louis and Villefranche-de-Conflent.
12. REVIEW | Dali Hôtel Perpignan.
13. Perpignan during the Visa pour l’image international photo journalism festival.
14. PERPIGNAN | The Palace of the Kings of Majorca or Palais des Rois de Majorque.
15. North Catalonia, Northern Catalonia or French Catalonia: Catalan presence in France.