Experience

REVIEW | Restaurant Neon in Lier

Posted by Timothy on

In October 2023, the ‘education crew’ of Frank, Steve, Philippe and Nicolas, and myself (not an educator), dined at Restaurant Neon in Lier. Located in a former school, Neon prides itself of sourcing local ingredients. 

The We’re Smart Green Guide ranks Neon 56th in their Top 100 Best Vegetables Restaurants 2023 ranking and awards Neon five radishes, its equivalent to Michelin stars. But Neon is not a vegetarian restaurant. 

“The time has come Petit Cuistot becomes Neon and has been relocated”, the guide says.

“Nils Proost cooks always well balanced, uncomplicated and ensures a nice flavor balance in every dish. He has a great love for exquisite and local products. He mainly involves vegetables, herbs and fruit from the Vercammen brothers in Koningshooikt, two young brothers who started a market gardening business together. He serves, among other things, green asparagus with celeriac, wild spinach and lovage and combines belly bacon and cod cheek with sweet potato, white beans and green curry. Vegetables are becoming more and more important, and guests are used to them getting a leading role in Neon.”

Prices and menu.

Seasons

“We choose to follow the rhythm of soil, forest, land and sea to the extreme. That is why we divide our year according to the four seasons, each with its own flavors, colors, micro-seasons and experiences”, Neon says on its website.

This means seasonal menus and bookings. “From 1 November 2023 you can make a reservation for our winter menu, which will be available from 10 January 2024 to 8 April 2024. Our autumn menu runs from 16 October 2023 to 23 December 2023.”

We went on 7 October, but it was already an autumn menu. Albeit not exactly as the autumn menu 1.4 advertised online.

Allergies, alterations and alternatives

“Our dishes consist of a number of ingredients, each of which contributes to the total experience. Because we closely follow the seasons, we cannot take all allergies and dietary requirements into account. Since vegetables play a leading role in every menu, allergies/dietary requirements for fish or meat are always replaced by a vegetarian dish”, Neon says.

“That is why we ask that you inform us of your food allergies/dietary requirements in a timely manner and in detail. If we cannot guarantee the same quality and experience, we will inform you personally.”

“We close our doors at lunch at 4 PM and dinner at midnight, so that our team is fresh and cheerful for every service.” If anything that’s a  sensible choice in times of staff shortages.

Philosophy

“Neon will primarily be a restaurant in which we try to make our guests feel as at home as we do. Enjoying a pleasant meal with friends or family in a relaxed atmosphere is our priority.”

“But of course this is only half of the experience we want to offer you. Our kitchen will have a highly seasonal, local, no-waste, in short, sustainable menu with a view to a new green gastronomy. Fruit and vegetables will be the eye-catchers of the menu, while fish from our North Sea and meat from our juicy meadows will flavor our dishes in a supporting role. Balance is the key word for us. Finding a new balance between vegetables, fruit, fish and meat is our ultimate goal.”

Dinner at Neon.

A dinner at Neon

Our menu was slightly different to the autumn menu 1.4

Ours was:

  1. Raw vegetables.
  2. Cucumber, peas and melon.
  3. Cauliflower.
  4. Sourdough wheat.
  5. Tomato, beetroot, blackberry.
  6. Chanterelles, porcini mushrooms, yellow wine.
  7. Brill, mussel, celery.
  8. Lamb, courgette, (zucchini), mint.
  9. Parmentier, celeriac.
  10. Blueberry, brioche, citrus pine.
  11. Chocolate, sweet corn, hazelnut, sea buckthorn.

Not officially mentioned are coffee and tea with, chocolate pralines, biscuits and madeleines. 

Also not mentioned is how often lamb returned. Now I don’t mind as I love lamb and mutton. But not everyone was (as much) a fan. Incidentally, lamb and sheep are the symbol of Lier.

Nicolas and I took half portions of wine pairing. These half portions were more 55 to 60% than 50% so very generous. Half glasses, you get for of them, is more than enough to taste the wine but get drunk. 

Needless to say the dishes were well conceived and execute. Perhaps too many lamb recalls. Even on the praline. 

Wine.

So?

The five of us were delighted and impressed. Although the owner explicitly stated having a Michelin star is not an ambition at all, we would not be surprised if the restaurant earns one. 

Food, gastronomy and restaurants