VIENNA | Restaurant Steirereck

Autumn 2021. In theory we could travel to other continents, but destinations we had in mind such as Japan or the United Kingdom were impossible to plan ahead. Instead we organised a rail trip to Eastern Europe, travelling to Berlin, Gdańsk, Wrocław, Karlovy Vary, Pilsen, Bratislava, Poprad, Vienna, Linz and Salzburg. By travelling to Germany, Poland, Czechia, Slovakia and Austria, we explore an area which was in the (not too distant) past bonded together by the Holy Roman Empire of the German Nation and by Austria-Hungary.

I dined at Steirereck in Vienna’s Stadtpark or City Park in 2009 with Mario. Eleven years later, I risked a ‘sequel experience’ with Danny.

Presentation

“At Steirereck we are constantly searching for the aromas and flavors of Austria”, the restaurants presents itself. “Join us in the world of Steirereck, share our passion and let us present our country’s harvest in the most delicious light.”

The restaurant is listed at one of the fifty best restaurants in the world. “On paper, it all sounds fairly traditional: the restaurant has beem family owned for generations, with a menu that leans heavily towards Austria’s rural Styrian region and its delicious but simple produce”, the The World’s 50 Best Restaurants website says. In 2021, Steirereck was ranked 12th of 50.

“However, set in revolutionary surrounds and guided by chef Heinz Reitbauer, Steirereck has become a byword for cutting-edge cooking rooted in the Austrian landscape.”

“Reitbauer’s signature says everything you need to know about his outlook, being equal parts culinary theatre, precision and reverence for local ingredients. The freshwater mountain fish, char, is cooked at the table in hot beeswax before being returned on a plate with yellow carrot, pollen and sour cream.”

Setting

Steirereck is situated in the Stadtpark in a very modern setting. My recollections of 2009 where shades of white and springfully green. I can be very wrong.

In 2021, semicircular curtain-like partition make it very cosy. Colourwise think brass, gravel tennis court oranges, shades of pink and crisp white linen. The bathroom is out of this world.

On wheels

But for us, the gastronomy itself is not what elevates Steirereck, who has ‘only’ two Michelin stars, to a higher level.

The experience does. Steirereck staff has the perfect mix of good manners and a sense of humor.

But even more impressive is their love of carts. A cart for bread, a cart for cheeses and a cart for tea. And just carts to bring you the sparkling wine or some dishes. You just want to try every type of bread, every cheese and every tea leaf.