In May and June 2023, we travelled from east to west across Canada. From Halifax in Nova Scotia to Montreal in Quebec, to Toronto in Ontario, to Vancouver and Whistler in British Columbia. Along the way some night trains and commuter trains, the Niagara Falls and – imagine this – a bus journey. A true Trans-Canada Train Trek.

I was on my own on 23 May 2023, as Danny, Sam and Danny’s parents had a family reunion with cousins in Montreal. After fixing my F1 needs by walking the Circuit Gilles Villeneuve on Île Notre-Dame, I dilly-dallied a lot before deciding what to do. Would I visit a gay sauna? I didn’t get any luck on Grindr, as Montreal is clearly a competitive place and I don’t live up to physical expectations on the gay dating and hook-up market.

Unfortunately reviews for Sauna Centre-Ville weren’t exactly compelling and reviews for Sauna GI Joe indicated that place is more about renting cabins for sex or an overnight stay with barely ‘wet facilities’. Aka actual bathhouse facilities. So I chickened out. I must be honest, that’s what was going on. 

But I wanted dinner anyway.

I found Monarque in a post about great spots to eat alone in Montreal. So I crossed the street from InterContinental Montreal and I asked for a spot for one.

They put me at the bar, which was full of solo eaters. The evening, or more accurately the hour, as I would spend exactly one hour inside, felt like film scene.

I sat down and a bartender started conversation, saying hello and asking if I wanted water. “De l’eau réguliere?“, he asked. Regular water. So no “eau platte” or still water. Quebecois French is quite different to French from France, Belgium, Luxembourg, Monaco or Switzerland. Later I would hear a “bienvenu(e)” instead of “de rien” for “no worries”. Clearly coming from the English “you’re welcome”.

I would be served by four waiters that evening, but mainly two. All were talkative and friendly and as advertised in the blog post, welcoming of single diners. I felt like being in a film or television. 

The bartenders took the time to introduce the menu, help me choose a wine and having me tasting two before deciding. They were caring but ‘fake’. 

For dinner

I had flétan or halibut with an asparagus puree as a main. It was the fish of the day. As dessert I had chocolate & coconut layered cake, featuring coconut whipped cream, milk chocolate cream and Tonka bean. I rounded up with a green tea. A nice touch was the bartender told me the ideal tea brewing time.

It was really good, actually. 

So solo?

It was a nice experience to genuinely feel welcome as a solo guest. Not being seen as a hassle or being patronised. It wasn’t a cheap restaurant. And I was in and out in an hour. The food was there so quickly. Typically, it was after my dessert things slowed down. 

Food, gastronomy and restaurants

• REVIEW | Restaurant Fred in Rotterdam.
• REVIEW | Restaurant Kuzina in Athens.
• REVIEW | Restaurant Neon in Lier.
• REVIEW | Restaurant Le Train Blue at Paris-Gare-de-Lyon.
• MANCHESTER | Afternoon Tea at Richmond Tea Rooms near Canal Street.
• RIDE & DINE | Brussels Tram Experience.
• STUTTGART | Restaurant Plenum, in Baden-Württemberg’s State Parliament.
• REVIEW | Restaurant Ritzi in Stuttgart.
• VIENNA | Restaurant Steirereck.
• REVIEW | Restaurant Ventrus avec vue, La Villette, Paris.
• REVIEW | Restaurant De Godevaart in Antwerp.
• REVIEW | Restaurant SELSation in Hemiksem.
• REVIEW | Breakfast at the 5-star superior Botanic Sanctuary Antwerp.
• REVIEW | Dinner at DINS Santi Taura in Palma de Mallorca.
• REVIEW | Restaurant 273 in Utrecht.
• REVIEW | Restauracja Ritz in Gdańsk.
• REVIEW | Carlton President Hotel Utrecht Maarssen ft. Restaurant One24.
• REVIEW | Restaurant La Grange aux Canards in Paris.
• RIDE & DINE | Orient Dining Express by Stoomtrein Maldegem-Eeklo.
• Afternoon tea at Fortnum & Mason in London.
• The German Gymnasium, Kings Cross / St Pancras, London.
• Hoftrammm, the tram dining experience.
• More than, but also sausages: rich cuisine of Germany’s heartland Saxony, Franconia and Bavaria.
• Bars and drinks package on Majestic Princess.
• Restaurants and food on Majestic Princess.
• Food and drinks on board Royal Caribbean’s Serenade of the Seas.
• Culinary, food and drinks markets in Antwerp.
• 5 (surprising) hotspots in Stockholm, Sweden.
• 8 food hotspots in Madrid for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
• POLAND | 3 hotspots of gastronomy in Kraków.
• ​In search of Belgian or Flemish cuisine in Antwerp.

2023 Trans-Canada Train Trek

1. REVIEW | Brussels Airlines Brussels to Munich in Economy.
2. REVIEW | Lufthansa Premium Economy Munich to Montreal.
3. REVIEW | Air Canada Economy Montreal to Halifax.
4. Flying Brussels Airlines, Lufthansa and Air Canada Brussels – Munich – Montreal – Halifax in minimal economy.
5. HALIFAX | Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21.
6. REVIEW | The Westin Nova Scotian Halifax.
7. NOVA SCOTIA | Sampling Halifax.
8. REVIEW | VIA Rail Canada night train 15 ‘The Ocean’ from Halifax to Montreal.
9. QUEBEC | Meandering Montreal.
10. REVIEW | InterContinental Montreal.
11. FORMULA 1 CANADIAN GRAND PRIX | Circuit Gilles Villeneuve, Montreal track walk.