GERMANY | Introducing Cologne

November and December 2017. During my solo trip to Taiwan – the vacation which was a catalyst to start Trip By Trip – I met Ugo. Fast forward to August 2025. Ugo is touring Europe and we decided to meet up. Showing him Antwerp was an option, but fitting the metropolis into his itinerary was hard, as Antwerp doesn’t have a great train connection with Berlin, his next stop. So, we decided on converging in Cologne in North Rhine-Westphalia for a weekend.

Ugo and I arrived in Cologne on Friday, we had a full Saturday and after a brunchy slice of cake on Sunday, I left for Antwerp as he stayed. We spent quite some time just enjoying each other’s company. But we also explored.

You read about our visit to Cologne Cathedral and the Belgian Quarter (Belgisches Viertel). We did a bit more. We went across the River Rhine and the Rheinboulevard on the Deutz side of the city. We walked across the iconic Hohenzollernbrücke railway bridge. We did not go out.

Frankly, I didn’t want to share Ugo that weekend. Even if, or perhaps because, Cologne is only second to Berlin in Germany for the gay scene.

Introducing Cologne

Cologne – Köln or Kölle – is the largest city in North Rhine-Westphalia and Germany’s fourth-most populous urban centre. Straddling the left bank of the Rhine roughly midway between Düsseldorf and Bonn, it anchors the Cologne–Bonn urban region and sits within the broader Rhine-Ruhr conurbation, one of the European Union’s most economically significant metro areas. The city proper covers 405.15 km² and stands at about 37 m above sea level; on 31 December 2023 it recorded 1,024,408 residents, with roughly 3.5 million in the wider urban area and about 8.7 million across the metropolitan region.

The city’s story begins under Rome. In the first century AD, in the territory of the Ubii, it became Colonia Agrippina, later the provincial capital of Germania Inferior and a major military and trading post on the Rhine.

That Roman foundation shaped a city which flourished through the Middle Ages on the great overland trade routes linking east and west. Modern upheavals arrived with French occupation from 1794 to 1815 and Prussian administration thereafter.

During World War II Cologne was among the most heavily bombed German cities; around 80% of the historic centre was destroyed and the population temporarily fell by more than 90% through evacuation. Post-war reconstruction extended into the 1990s, mixing restoration of the Romanesque churchscape with modern urbanism.

Cologne’s skyline is dominated by its Gothic cathedral, the Kölner Dom, which briefly held the title of the world’s tallest building in the 1880s and remains among the tallest churches anywhere, built to house the Shrine of the Three Kings.

The wider cityscape is studded with a dozen great Romanesque churches, testament to a thousand years of ecclesiastical power centred on one of Europe’s most prominent archdioceses. Cologne also gave its name to perfume: ‘Eau de Cologne‘ has been produced here since 1709 and became a generic byword for scented colognes worldwide.

Geographically, Cologne sits in the Cologne Lowland, with elevations ranging from about 37.5 m at Worringer Bruch to 118 m at Monte Troodelöh. The climate is temperate oceanic (Köppen Cfb), among Germany’s mildest: the 1991–2020 averages show an annual mean of roughly 10.7 °C, with January around 3 °C and July near 19 °C, and precipitation evenly spread at roughly 802 mm per year. The city experienced a record high of 40.3 °C on 25 July 2019 during a major European heatwave. Sunshine typically totals around 1,550–1,590 hours annually.

Today’s Cologne is divided into nine boroughs and eighty-five districts, reflecting a city that is at once metropolitan and village-like in texture. Its cultural identity is shaped by the Kölsch dialect and by a famously exuberant carnival, while its museums and galleries range from Roman archaeology to contemporary art, with the Museum Ludwig and the Roman-Germanic Museum among the best known.

The economy is broad-based, with particular strength in insurance, media and logistics. Cologne is a heavyweight media hub hosting broadcasters such as WDR and RTL and a tight cluster of production houses and publishers. The trade-fair complex at Koelnmesse ranks among Europe’s leading venues, staging more than fifty fairs and large events each year.

On the industrial side, Ford’s European operations are a major employer, and the city remains a Rhine port of continental importance with five harbour sites—Germany’s second-largest inland port system—while Cologne/Bonn Airport is one of the country’s top air-freight gateways.

Toyota has racing engineering facilities in Cologne, its rally cars having German ‘K’ (for Köln) number plates.

Transport connectivity is a defining asset. Köln Hauptbahnhof is a national and international rail hub with dense ICE services and high-speed links to Amsterdam, Brussels and Paris via Eurostar and TGV.

Regional movement is handled by the KVB-operated Stadtbahn, an extensive light-rail network that meshes with the Rhine-Ruhr S-Bahn, while the city also pioneered German motorway building with the Cologne–Bonn autobahn and later completed a full ring road. Air travel centres on Cologne/Bonn Airport (CGN), and the city is home to the European Union’s aviation regulator, EASA.

Cologne is a major seat of learning and research. The University of Cologne, founded in 1388 and re-established in 1919, ranks among Germany’s largest universities.

The broader higher-education ecosystem includes TH Köln (University of Applied Sciences), the German Sport University, the Academy of Media Arts and the Cologne University of Music and Dance, the latter billed as Europe’s largest conservatoire.

Research institutions based in the city include the German Aerospace Centre and the European Astronaut Centre of ESA, alongside several Max Planck institutes. Across its campuses and colleges the city hosts on the order of seventy-thousand students.

Demographically, Cologne crossed and re-crossed the million-resident threshold over the last half-century through incorporation, demographic ebb and flow and renewed growth in the 21st century.

As at the end of 2023 the city counted just over one million residents; the surrounding Cologne–Bonn region brings the day-to-day population footprint to multiple millions. The city’s diversity is marked: in 2022, for example, residents with foreign citizenship accounted for just over forty percent of the population, and the city officially permits Friday prayer calls at mosques under agreed conditions, reflecting a plural civic landscape.

In short, Cologne blends Roman roots and medieval trade with post-war reinvention and 21st-century media, science and mobility.

The result is a Rhine metropolis that couples headline monuments with the lived texture of districts and riverside quarters, and that registers in the numbers as much as in the skyline: a city of roughly 1.0 million people across 405 km², at the heart of an urban region that rivals any on the continent.

What is there to see and do?

Cologne is a city where ancient heritage and modern vibrancy come together, offering visitors a wealth of things to see and do. At its heart stands the majestic Cologne Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site whose twin spires dominate the skyline.

Begun in the thirteenth century and completed in the nineteenth, the cathedral is not only a masterpiece of Gothic architecture but also home to the Shrine of the Three Kings, one of Europe’s most celebrated medieval reliquaries.

Around the centre, twelve great Romanesque churches—among them St. Gereon, St. Aposteln and Groß St. Martin—recall Cologne’s religious importance in the Middle Ages, while the city’s synagogue and modern mosques reflect its present-day diversity.

Art and culture thrive in Cologne, with more than thirty museums and countless galleries. The Museum Ludwig houses a rich collection of twentieth-century art, including one of the world’s largest holdings of Picasso’s work, alongside striking displays of Pop Art.

The Wallraf-Richartz Museum presents European painting from the Middle Ages to the nineteenth century, while the Römisch-Germanisches Museum preserves mosaics, glassware and everyday artefacts from the city’s Roman origins.

The Museum of Applied Arts highlights design and craftsmanship, whereas more unusual attractions include the Chocolate Museum and the Fragrance Museum, located in the original Eau de Cologne factory established in 1709.

Exploring the city’s neighbourhoods reveals a different side of Cologne.

The reconstructed Old Town, with its cobbled streets and colourful gabled houses, brims with riverside taverns serving Kölsch, the local top-fermented beer poured in slim glasses.

The Belgian Quarter is popular for its cafés, boutiques and nightlife, while Ehrenfeld has become a hub of multicultural energy and street art. Along the Rhine, the redeveloped Rheinauhafen district showcases striking contemporary architecture, most famously the crane-shaped towers known as the Kranhäuser.

Cologne’s calendar is equally rich. The city is synonymous with Carnival, a season of parades, costumes and street festivities that transforms Cologne each February into one of Europe’s great centres of celebration.

Cologne Pride, held every summer, is among the continent’s largest LGBTQ+ events, while the Koelnmesse trade fair complex hosts internationally significant exhibitions such as Gamescom and Art Cologne.

Music is woven into the city’s fabric, with performances by the Gürzenich Orchestra and Cologne Opera staged alongside concerts at the Philharmonie, while its electronic music scene has global influence through the Kompakt label.

Green spaces and the river offer welcome respite. The landscaped Rheinpark stretches along the riverside, and the Flora and Botanical Garden, established in the nineteenth century, provide quiet corners amidst exotic plants.

A cruise on the Rhine offers a different view of the bridges and cathedral, while the Cologne Cable Car glides across the river with sweeping views of the skyline.

Shopping and food are also integral to the Cologne experience. The bustling streets of Schildergasse and Hohe Straße are among Europe’s busiest shopping avenues, complemented by smaller boutiques in the Belgian Quarter.

Traditional brewhouses such as Früh, Päffgen and Gaffel serve Kölsch alongside hearty Rhineland dishes, from Himmel un Ääd—a combination of mashed potatoes, apple sauce and black pudding—to the deceptively simple Halver Hahn, a rye roll with cheese.

Beyond the city, day trips reveal the Rhine’s wider treasures. Castles and vineyards dot the Middle Rhine Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage landscape, while the Siebengebirge hills rise dramatically near Bonn. Nearby cities such as Düsseldorf and Aachen are easily reached by train, underscoring Cologne’s central position in one of Europe’s most historic and culturally rich regions.

Cologne is at once ancient and modern, solemn and festive, a city of Roman remains and soaring Gothic stonework, of beer halls and avant-garde art. To wander its streets is to experience a metropolis deeply rooted in history yet alive with energy, a place that continues to reinvent itself while never losing sight of its Rhineland soul.

Tourism in numbers

Tourism in Cologne has rebounded strongly in recent years, and the city now welcomes millions of visitors annually.

In 2022, the city recorded around 3.2 million arrivals and 5.6 million overnight stays, recovering to more than 85 % of pre-pandemic levels.

By 2023, tourism had fully returned to strength, with over 3.8 million guests and approximately 6.6 million overnight stays, representing increases of more than 20 % in arrivals and 17 % in nights compared with the previous year. Revenues followed the same trend, climbing to €5.24 billion in 2023 and rising further to €5.49 billion in 2024, a 5 % year-on-year gain that brought spending close to record levels.

The bulk of Cologne’s visitors are domestic, with German travellers accounting for about 64 % of overnight stays in 2024.

Among international markets, the Netherlands consistently leads, followed by the United Kingdom and the United States. This mix gives the city a solid base of national tourism while also broadening its global appeal. Cultural tourism in particular has grown in importance, with an increasing share of visitors citing Cologne’s museums, churches and events as reasons for their trip.

Large-scale gatherings and the meetings and events industry also contribute to Cologne’s profile as a destination. In 2023, the city staged more than 46,000 events that drew nearly five million participants, already surpassing pre-pandemic attendance levels even though the overall number of events had not fully recovered.

By 2024, participant numbers grew by more than 40 %, with international attendees making up just over 4 % of the total. The city’s reputation as a trade-fair venue is anchored by Koelnmesse, which continues to host some of Europe’s most important exhibitions, such as Gamescom and Art Cologne.

Overtourism

Despite the growth, Cologne has not faced the kinds of overtourism challenges experienced in places such as Venice or Barcelona.

Seasonal peaks, particularly during Carnival or major fairs, can cause localised pressure, but there is no evidence of city-wide strain or backlash. Local residents generally welcome visitors, though some express concern about disruptive behaviour, especially from those who come only to party. Compared with Europe’s most heavily burdened destinations, Cologne remains comfortably balanced between a thriving visitor economy and the quality of life of its residents.

The city’s reputation as a destination is positive and strengthening. Studies of brand trust and visitor perception highlight Cologne’s strong tourism image, often rated above that of competing German cities.

Rising spending, especially from travellers with higher purchasing power, underlines the city’s appeal not only to casual visitors but also to those seeking cultural depth and quality experiences.

Cologne today presents itself as a confident, attractive metropolis: one that draws millions with its cathedral, museums, events and lively atmosphere, but without succumbing to the downsides of uncontrolled mass tourism.

Side quest: Hohenzollern Bridge

The Hohenzollern Bridge is an iconic railway and pedestrian bridge spanning the River Rhine in Cologne, Germany, situated at kilometre 688.5. Originally constructed as both a road and rail bridge, it was destroyed during the Second World War and subsequently rebuilt for rail and pedestrian use only.

Today, it is Germany’s most heavily trafficked railway bridge, carrying more than 1,200 trains daily and linking Köln Hauptbahnhof with Köln Messe/Deutz station.

The bridge was built between 1907 and 1911 following the demolition of the older Cathedral Bridge, which could no longer accommodate the growing rail traffic associated with the opening of Köln Hauptbahnhof.

Named after the House of Hohenzollern—the rulers of Prussia and German Emperors—the bridge was designed by Franz Heinrich Schwechten and inaugurated by Emperor William II (Kaiser Wilhelm II) on 22 May 1911.

Its original structure consisted of three adjacent sections, each with three iron truss arches, supporting four railway tracks and a road deck. Flanking the ramps were four equestrian statues of Prussian kings and German emperors of the Hohenzollern dynasty, including Friedrich Wilhelm IV, Wilhelm I, Friedrich III, and Wilhelm II, which symbolised the Prussian era in the Rhine Province.

The bridge played a strategic role during the Second World War. Despite repeated air raids, it survived largely intact until 6 March 1945, when German engineers deliberately demolished it to slow the Allied advance. Following Germany’s surrender, a temporary crossing was established for pedestrians, and reconstruction began in earnest.

By 8 May 1948, pedestrians could once again use the bridge. The southern road decks were removed during reconstruction, leaving six individual railway decks. The bridge’s towers and portals, which had survived the war, were demolished in 1958, and the reconstruction was completed in 1959.

In the 1980s, the bridge was further renovated with the addition of two new tracks, while a small section of the old road ramp and cobblestone tram tracks on the Deutz side was preserved and converted into a pedestrian and cycling path.

Measuring 409.19 metres in length and 26.2 metres in width, the Hohenzollern Bridge has a tied arch design with concrete piers and a steel superstructure. Its spans vary between 118.88 and 167.75 metres.

Beyond its practical function, the bridge has become a cultural landmark. Since 2008, it has been famous for its ‘love padlocks’, with estimates in 2015 suggesting some 500,000 locks attached. The eastern bridgehead on the Deutz side also features a public climbing facility maintained by the German Alpine Association since 1998, with an 850 m² wall area.

The Hohenzollern Bridge not only connects key railway hubs in Cologne but also offers visitors a striking viewpoint of the Rhine and Cologne Cathedral, making it one of the city’s most recognisable landmarks. Its blend of historic significance, architectural design, and modern utility ensures that it remains central to both daily transport and the urban landscape of Cologne.

Queer Cologne

Cologne is widely regarded as one of the most LGBTQIA+ friendly cities in Germany—and indeed in Europe. It has a reputation for openness, inclusivity, and a lively queer cultural scene, woven deeply into the city’s identity. Visitors often note that the atmosphere is relaxed and tolerant across the city as a whole, not just in specifically gay spaces.

The centre of the gay scene is the Bermuda Triangle, a cluster of bars and clubs in the Old Town around Heumarkt and Schaafenstraße. Here you’ll find a concentration of venues catering to different tastes, from relaxed pubs to dance clubs, cocktail lounges, and fetish spaces.

Popular long-running bars such as ExCorner, Die Mumu, and Zum Schwips give the area its character, while larger clubs like Station 2B and Exile attract weekend crowds.

Gay cruising

Cologne also has a strong tradition of cruising bars and fetish clubs, reflecting its role as a hub of queer nightlife in continental Europe.

Venues like Bunker or Phoenix Sauna cater to those looking for cruising, with saunas and bathhouses forming a visible part of the scene. The city has multiple saunas, including Badehaus Babylon, one of Europe’s largest gay saunas, complete with a pool, garden, and extensive facilities.

Parties are another highlight. The most famous is Sexy Cologne, a series of large-scale themed dance parties that take place several times a year and attract thousands of visitors from across Europe. During Cologne Pride (Christopher Street Day) in July, the city turns into one of Europe’s biggest queer festivals, drawing over a million participants and spectators for the parade, concerts, parties, and political events. Carnival in February, already Cologne’s biggest cultural celebration, is also strongly embraced by the LGBTQIA+ community, with queer-specific events integrated into the wider revelry.

In addition to nightlife, Cologne is home to a rich network of LGBTQIA+ organisations, cultural festivals, film screenings, and community centres, ensuring visibility and support across the spectrum. The city consistently ranks high in surveys of queer-friendly destinations, and visitors generally find it easy to be open about their identity in public.

In short, Cologne combines the feel of a tolerant German city with one of Europe’s most diverse and energetic gay scenes. Whether you’re looking for relaxed bars, dance parties, bathhouses, or large-scale Pride celebrations, Cologne offers a scene that is broad, welcoming, and internationally renowned.

So?

Cologne has far more to offer than the surface we just scratched.

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